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Unread 04-13-2014, 10:53 PM   #1
SubAtomicGenius
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G2 Axle "Core 44" and Currie RockJock 44 Front Axle Assemblies for JK

Just noticed that G2 axle and gear is offering a front aftermarket D44JK option, as well as Currie with their RockJock Rubicon 44.

This gives the community more options for those who may have wanted to upgrade to an aftermarket axle assembly such as the Dynatrac Prorock 44 or Teraflex Tera44/R44.



g2-core-44.jpg   jk-44hpf1.jpg  
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Unread 04-14-2014, 07:06 PM   #2
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Man that's almost cruel for you to post that while I'm looking for sleeve and gusset kits for under $150. Dmn it!
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Unread 04-14-2014, 08:01 PM   #3
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The Currie is a beauty. However, it is a tossup. I'm getting a quote on the Currie front housing at the moment, with the intent to build. I've priced it - after a complete build, it may be more practical to just drop the coin on a fully-built and warrantied 60 from Currie or G2...
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Unread 04-14-2014, 08:48 PM   #4
222Doc
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I hate these threads..............

I have seen so many axles break lost count now. Have seen rings/pins break spiders. not seen one C bend that was NOT caused by a wreck or some yahoo that thinks his jeep can fly. or from a roll.

In the end the D60HP front is the choice. but then you need hydro assisted to turn the big dogs,37+ in the rocks. if only i could print money like the FEDS.
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Unread 04-14-2014, 09:34 PM   #5
Maertz
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I hate these threads..............

I have seen so many axles break lost count now. Have seen rings/pins break spiders. not seen one C bend that was NOT caused by a wreck or some yahoo that thinks his jeep can fly. or from a roll.

In the end the D60HP front is the choice. but then you need hydro assisted to turn the big dogs,37+ in the rocks. if only i could print money like the FEDS.
agreed, i fell if you truly NEED to swap axles, why do a 44?! Get a 60. Rear im not even done with mine and i almost regret not getting a 9" or 14b.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 01:00 PM   #6
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agreed, i fell if you truly NEED to swap axles, why do a 44?! Get a 60. Rear im not even done with mine and i almost regret not getting a 9" or 14b.
you see the 14b front that Jason is building? what a tank that will be.?

I figure i will run the stock Rubi 44 until i bend it. I do plan to get 37"s one day. when i can get the power steering done and cromos all around. Then get 37"s and wait for something to break. when it does will go with 60"s since i wont be going over 37"s. Unless this jeep ends up on a trailer. But we drive this thing all over the place to wheel and 1.2k mile trips to Cali and back to run the great mountain trails you need to drive it there for the Dusy. Logistically . so 37"s will be the end of the road for this ride. 35"s will be on it for some time.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 01:16 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post

you see the 14b front that Jason is building? what a tank that will be.?

I figure i will run the stock Rubi 44 until i bend it. I do plan to get 37"s one day. when i can get the power steering done and cromos all around. Then get 37"s and wait for something to break. when it does will go with 60"s since i wont be going over 37"s. Unless this jeep ends up on a trailer. But we drive this thing all over the place to wheel and 1.2k mile trips to Cali and back to run the great mountain trails you need to drive it there for the Dusy. Logistically . so 37"s will be the end of the road for this ride. 35"s will be on it for some time.
I have not. Those will be sweet but id love to see how he does a true high pinion 14b front.... Personally id love a 14b rear and hi 9 front. Or 9" f/r with Richmond gears. Im debating putting d70 internals in my 60s. Better clearance and 10.25 ring gears and such
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Unread 04-15-2014, 11:34 PM   #8
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I have not. Those will be sweet but id love to see how he does a true high pinion 14b front.... Personally id love a 14b rear and hi 9 front. Or 9" f/r with Richmond gears. Im debating putting d70 internals in my 60s. Better clearance and 10.25 ring gears and such
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f369/...front-2311025/
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Unread 04-16-2014, 12:14 AM   #9
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14b is an awesome axle, but it drags like a plow without the trim and it's limited to 5.13's.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 11:28 AM   #10
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well my wheeling buddy destroyed his D30 this week end. Running Trumans revenge in Parker. We had hoped that it was just something simple. Seems the ARB bolts that hold the locking plate broke. took out the ring/spider cross and the ARB(its old too ). he is done with his d30 on 35's 35's. he was replacing axles about every few months (stock axles) wanted to keep the weak link at the axles. he is going with the G2 housing in the HP44. he is staying on 35"s wont go 37"s. took 6 hours to get him home, had to go back pick up a trailer. then do the return drive. fun.....
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Unread 04-16-2014, 01:07 PM   #11
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According to the documents I have, the D30 is rated for 640ft-lbs continuous and 2350ft-lbs momentary torque. The D44 is rated for 1100ft-lbs continuous and 3460ft-lbs momentary torque. These are generalized figures, and I don't know if they exactly apply to the JK-series axle-assembly units - however, I am sure that these figures are ball-park.

So, a D44 can withstand 172% more continuous torque output than a D30, and 147% more momentary torque than a D30. That's pretty significant. So, like 222Doc says, if one intends to stick to 35s or 37's, going to an aftermarket D44 is a logical upgrade.

Also, a D60 reflects the similarly rated torque handling improvements over that of a D44.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 01:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
According to the documents I have, the D30 is rated for 640ft-lbs continuous and 2350ft-lbs momentary torque. The D44 is rated for 1100ft-lbs continuous and 3460ft-lbs momentary torque. These are generalized figures, and I don't know if they exactly apply to the JK-series axle-assembly units - however, I am sure that these figures are ball-park.

So, a D44 can withstand 172% more continuous torque output than a D30, and 147% more momentary torque than a D30. That's pretty significant. So, like 222Doc says, if one intends to stick to 35s or 37's, going to an aftermarket D44 is a logical upgrade.

Also, a D60 reflects the similarly rated torque handling improvements over that of a D44.
Im assuming this is torque on the r&p.if thats the case you can always improve those numbers
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Unread 04-16-2014, 01:24 PM   #13
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yea i seen it coming too. but by the time i grabbed the radio. was behind him. It was to late. I seen his jeep slip off the rocks he had lined up on and his right front was caught in a under cut after slipping into a hole. He tried to crawl up the right wall and BANG. The one sound we hate to hear. pulled the axles and they were good. did not want to make stubs so they went home to get a friends trailer. he has a TJ and is always running hard stuff. He replaced the 35 with a Currie rock jock 60 a few years ago. never an issue with that on 35"s , beforethat well we all know the issues those have with d35 on 35"s and big rocks. Our group all about run 35"s excepting two. one has 40" she leads most harder runs, so we can winch to her crawler as needed. and another guy is on 37"s with a custom 9" front. one of those welded up housings that are custom.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 02:20 PM   #14
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Im assuming this is torque on the r&p.if thats the case you can always improve those numbers
These figures were listed for the stock axle assembly as a whole, including information on R&P size, u-joint size, and axle diameter/composition. Of course, this doesn't account for adding any aftermarket components. Regardless - in theory - a built-up D44 would still be capable of ~150% more torque output than a built-up D30.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 02:35 PM   #15
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True but a thing not many people look at are load bolts or jantz kits to upgrade some weakpoints on certain axles. Sure most people dont need to but it is a sweet option
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