Second set of km2s, still love the tires. Not loud at all.
I do question the aev wheels though. I like the width and backspacing, and the look, but I wonder about the quality.
Still, my vibration is not the tires. Very very different frequency and I am very in tune with frequency related vibrations. There is a minor wheel/tire balance or roundness issue but it is only on one tire/wheel, much different frequency vibration. I'm doing a bunch of things with the jeep on Sunday so ill take a picture.
I asked him to take the wheel off and take a pic of the hub. That could be confusing as some would think the hub could be on the wheel or some would think on the vehicle. i said the lug as that would mean the vehicle. I will explain when I see the pic.
this has been something that has been kept quiet for a while but now I see that peole are wasting money on drive shafts and multiple re-balances etc and that is absurd if you all are having the same problem I did.
before I jump to conclusions let me see a pic and I think I can help you
You want a pic of hub where the studs are? What might there be there if I might ask? I'd expect nothing wrong there especially if there was no vibes pre wheel/tire change.
any reason to delete the posts requesting pics of hub?? Sure would like the help.
I am planning to ask for GY MTR Kevlar, same size, they are load range C vs load range D. That may solve lots of issues. I think the KM2 is fine for an unlimited four door jeep weighing 600lbs more, with a longer wheelbase. I can also use the KM2's on my Bronco which needs new rubber anyway, making lemonade out of lemons.
Holy **** this guy seemed to have a major freak out on the site. Crazy. I'm on a trip out of town, sorry I cannot jump up and pull off my wheels for a picture. Act like an adult. If there is an opinion about the wheels you wish to share, please do. Otherwise you're acting like a child with a secret.
I expressed my opinion about gearing in another thread and he had a ****, saying that wouldn't help me any more because I must be smarter than him. I can disagree with a lot of people but it doesn't mean I won't help them on another issue.
FYI, as I said, the new rear driveshaft is not a waste for me as I intended the replace the weak, thin factory piece anyway. I haven't installed it yet (again I'm out on a trip), but I also bought spare u joints that fit front or rear.
And yet again, I have a minor tire/wheel balance issue that present itself at one speed. It is completely different than the high frequency vibration I'm experiencing. I can feel a different between 400 revs and 3000 revs.
Still interested to hear your opinion about the aev wheels if you can be mature and offer advice to the forum. I don't have a ton of faith with their quality. I don't think the hubs of their wheels fit tightly like hub centric wheels should. If I could prove an obvious issue I'd like to get an exchange or refund or something, not that they would ever do it.
Haven't pulled a wheel, here is a pic of my spare (yeah you can't see the hub because of the center cap). Tell me what you're looking for and I'll get a picture for you tomorrow when I'm doing some maintenance.
I have a vibration between 60-70 or so. Tires have been rotated and balanced...very annoying. Next step is to find some times and take it to this guy who knows a lot about drive shafts and pinion angles and JKs in general. My DSs are custom ones by Bill at Englewood Drive Shafts (local).
Haven't read through the whole thread, but do you know what your caster is? It's fairly easy to set the rear pinion angle. Just set an angle finder on a flat surface of the rear diff and match the angle to that of the driveshaft. The front is a little more difficult because there isn't a good way to check the caster without the vehicle on the laser rack. I just solved my vibration problem. I was running the factory caster on my TJ--positive 7 degrees--with a 4.5" lift and changed it to 5. Problem solved. I thought it was the stock front shaft going bad at first. I was wrong. From what I've heard, the JKs like positive 3 degrees with an approx 4" lift.
edit: just saw a post on the first page with the comment about the vibration occurring at 10 mph or less. I had that too, and ^^^ is how to solve it. The joint at the front pinion is simply at too extreme of an angle and starts to vibrate.
My caster is 4.2 degrees. Pinion angle on the front isn't great but it's not terrible. Eventually some adjustable control arms will be on it and I will see how it drives with less caster.
The vibration got significantly worse on a trip last weekend. It became obvious that is was the front drive shaft on mine after all. The front u joint had some minor play on it that I could finally feel. Only 14-15k on the driveshaft. Tom woods offered to ship it back. He is going to inspect it, replace anything needs replaced, rebalance and ship it back. Good guy!
With the front drive shaft out, it's smooth again. Well, as smooth as it has ever been at least. The rear Tom woods driveshaft is in, nice and smooth as well.
I've heard complaints about the "gold seal u joints" but I'll give it one more shot. I know the pinion angle up front isn't ideal so this may be the reason. I did order two spares with the rear driveshaft so I'm equipped to swap one out in the field if need be.
I'm concerned that the replacement driveshafts still fail? Are Woods front DS double cardan?
Mine is back at shop, after a Hunter force rebalance, they are going to swap tires as they even admitted the amount of weight to pass was excessive, and it still vibrated at speed, going to try Toyo's MT, any word on those?