Hello everyone, a little preface on to my problem that I've had since day one. I have a 2013 JKUR10A and when I would remove my hard top and there was no longer anything pressing against the top of the driver side rear door, every time I went over a bump it would rattle and drive me CRAZY. I know there are many threads dedicated to the infamous door rattle and I am aware that there is a TSB out there for it which call for the technician to just simply "apply grease to the striker plate and cycle the door" which I assure you I had no luck for me. I know others have had varying degrees of luck with the electrical tape fix as well but it is a temporary fix. I just wanted to post up my seemingly more long term fix that I think looks good as well. All you need is a tube of plasti-dip (not the aerosol) here are the steps:
Remove latch plate and backing plate with Torx bit
Clean latching bar with soap and water and dry it
Dip just the hoop into the tube of plasti-dip (you may need to hold the tube at an angle to get adequate coverage) and be sure not to coat the flat plate
It may wear off, it's true only time will tell. I also greased the latch as well. I cycled the door probably 50ish times last night just to see how it would hold up and almost no change or damage to the dip occurred. I have this coated several tools with it for additional grip and put those through hell and its still holding tough so I'm remaining optimistic.
how do you adjust the striker plate since there are only two holes and is held to the tub with self centering torx bolts
I loosened the striker bolts, pressed it upward a hair, re-tightened, and the clunk hasn't returned in about 5yrs. That was my driver side door. The passenger door was so misaligned (vertically) that I had to loosen the upper hinge bolts at the A-pillar to relieve the tension before I could even remove that door. The doors are adjustable in all three dimensions. I guess it's just a matter of degree.