Door Rattle Fix - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
motoxneve
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Door Rattle Fix

Hello everyone, a little preface on to my problem that I've had since day one. I have a 2013 JKUR10A and when I would remove my hard top and there was no longer anything pressing against the top of the driver side rear door, every time I went over a bump it would rattle and drive me CRAZY. I know there are many threads dedicated to the infamous door rattle and I am aware that there is a TSB out there for it which call for the technician to just simply "apply grease to the striker plate and cycle the door" which I assure you I had no luck for me. I know others have had varying degrees of luck with the electrical tape fix as well but it is a temporary fix. I just wanted to post up my seemingly more long term fix that I think looks good as well. All you need is a tube of plasti-dip (not the aerosol) here are the steps:
  • Remove latch plate and backing plate with Torx bit
  • Clean latching bar with soap and water and dry it
  • Dip just the hoop into the tube of plasti-dip (you may need to hold the tube at an angle to get adequate coverage) and be sure not to coat the flat plate
  • Let dry for at least 4 hours
  • Reinstall backing plate and latch plate


Attached Thumbnails
latch.jpg   latch 2.jpg  
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post #2 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 01:51 PM
222Doc
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wont the dip just wear off too?

http://www.parker4wheelers.net
www.bullhead4wheelersinc.com
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post #3 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 01:55 PM
1222
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Nice clean fix but Iím thinking it is still a temp fix just like the tape one, although might last a bit longer. Only time will tell though.
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post #4 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
motoxneve
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It may wear off, it's true only time will tell. I also greased the latch as well. I cycled the door probably 50ish times last night just to see how it would hold up and almost no change or damage to the dip occurred. I have this coated several tools with it for additional grip and put those through hell and its still holding tough so I'm remaining optimistic.
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post #5 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 02:31 PM
Jiblet
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The door latch striker is position adjustable.
It just needed adjustment.
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post #6 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 02:35 PM Thread Starter
motoxneve
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how do you adjust the striker plate since there are only two holes and is held to the tub with self centering torx bolts
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post #7 of 9 Old 08-20-2014, 09:20 PM
Marinerider
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I'm interested as well. Driving on major roads and in cities is a beating listening to all the rattling.

Pete
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post #8 of 9 Old 08-22-2014, 02:54 PM
Jiblet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoxneve View Post
how do you adjust the striker plate since there are only two holes and is held to the tub with self centering torx bolts
I loosened the striker bolts, pressed it upward a hair, re-tightened, and the clunk hasn't returned in about 5yrs. That was my driver side door. The passenger door was so misaligned (vertically) that I had to loosen the upper hinge bolts at the A-pillar to relieve the tension before I could even remove that door. The doors are adjustable in all three dimensions. I guess it's just a matter of degree.
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post #9 of 9 Old 08-22-2014, 03:18 PM
jwmbishop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoxneve View Post
how do you adjust the striker plate since there are only two holes and is held to the tub with self centering torx bolts
The tub is not threaded. There is a "captive plate" behind the tub sheet metal. The striker and captive "sandwich" the sheet metal.

Simply loosen the screws about one turn and tap the striker in the desired direction - the whole plate moves, tighten back down...

Expect minor paint damage at the striker...

J Wm Bishop EA, ASADE
The wagon should, of course, be as light as possible, but strength should not be sacrificed to lightness, for on any but the regularly traveled roads, the wagon will get many a hard knock...
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door , door latch , fix , plasti-dip , rattle

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