Differential Fluid Change - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 73 Old 01-29-2012, 02:54 PM
eumel789
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Quote:
Originally Posted by waterboarder View Post
Yeah, I used that writeup when I did mine a while back too. It's a good one.

I recommend changing the transfer case fluid at the same time. You're supposed to inspect it when you change the diff fluids anyway, and if you go through the trouble of removing the skid plate and drain plug, why not just change the oil? Cost is less than $10.

I recommend having two different fluid transfer pumps on hand - one for the diff, one for the t-case.

I also use Mobile 1 75w90 in my front diff, but used the 140 in my rear due to towing.
I used LUCAS 85W-140 both front and rear on my 09 Rubi because I do tow now and then.Also replace the covers with G2s

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post #47 of 73 Old 01-29-2012, 03:18 PM
SubAtomicGenius
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Metaloholic View Post

1) The front differential fluid was really black and smelled like rancid ***. Is this normal?

Gear oil smells bad, but oils can actually get bacterial colonies in them to make them smell rancid. We had a hydraulic tank at work (5 barrels worth) that got infected, we had to drain it and actually use some sort of antibacterial additive to get rid of it.
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post #48 of 73 Old 01-29-2012, 07:40 PM
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When changing the fluids for the rear and front ends I noticed no one talking about any additives. Do we need limited slip additives ?
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post #49 of 73 Old 01-29-2012, 07:48 PM
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My '11 manual states GL-5 and 80W90.. so that's what I bought. $15 for 3 quarts from Walmart, and 45 minutes of my time. This should be a $100 job, but if you take it to a dealer they'll rape you.

I am SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO glad that Jeep engineers finally took their heads out of the sand and gave us drain plugs front and rear. That makes the job SO much easier.

At 11,000 miles, I had a lot of sludge and crud build-up on the magnetic plug...though some of that could be from my new gearset. I ran synthetic fluids in the axles on my KJ and it caused chattering and noise. So I always use cheap dino fluid for the diffs now...and they are butter smooth, plus I save money. Synthetics are over-rated for gears.

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'05 KJ CRD Limited - 370 lb./ft. from a 4-cylinder and trail ready. Pure awesomeness.
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post #50 of 73 Old 02-08-2012, 09:56 PM
Tanimal
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This thread helped me a ton and I changed my fluid in my driveway at 11PM! Thanks again guys.
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post #51 of 73 Old 02-11-2012, 11:36 PM
rockingdaddy1
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You cn get additve from dealer 8$ or so. Front doesnt need it rear does
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post #52 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 10:06 AM
SDHNTR
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Can't you just use Mobil 1 synthetic and then you don't need the additive?

If so, why does the dealer use the additive?
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post #53 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 04:27 PM
onlyjeep
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I have the limited slip dif. do i still need to put an additive on a synthethic gear oil?
I see some gear oil that says no additive necessary.
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post #54 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 05:37 PM
rockingdaddy1
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For me the 8 dollars was piece of mind. I used royal purple it said it had additive.
Dealer said that his book said mopar required additive in the rear even with synthetic fluid the front didn't? Take for what you think it is worth
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post #55 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 06:30 PM
JeffinWesternWA
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you'll need the Mopar additive for ALL LS equipeed differentials, REGADLESS of if the gear oil you use supposedly has a LS additive/compound within. The front nor the standard open rear diff does NOTneed any LS additive.

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post #56 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 06:51 PM
SDHNTR
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Still nobody has really answered the question definitively. I understand that if you use regular gear oil you need the additive, but with a full synthetic like Mobil 1, do you need and extra additive?

The owners manual says to use Molar gear lube with the additive "or equivalent". So does straight syn meet the definition of equivalent?
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post #57 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 07:59 PM
rockingdaddy1
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According to mopar you still need the mopar additive even with a full syn. like moble 1or royal purple that
have an additive if you have a limited slip diff. Take it for what it is worth period. Eight ten dollars is cheaper than new gears. Hope that answers the question.
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post #58 of 73 Old 02-12-2012, 08:18 PM
rockingdaddy1
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I run royal purple full syn it has a additive in it. In the front I run just it. In the rear I run the same full syn plus a bottle of the mopar additive. I have been running it for more than a year and have no problems. Hope that helps.
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post #59 of 73 Old 02-28-2012, 11:01 AM
SMOA
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I have a 2010 unlimited with the factory tow package. How can I tell if I have a limited slip rear end? Is it in the vin or stamped on the differential?
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post #60 of 73 Old 02-29-2012, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMOA View Post
I have a 2010 unlimited with the factory tow package. How can I tell if I have a limited slip rear end? Is it in the vin or stamped on the differential?
You can go to http://www.jeep.com/JeepCares . (This is NOT me.)

Enter the required information and tell them you are looking for your build sheet.

Build Sheets list all the standard and optional factory equipment on a specific vehicle. Note: this is how the vehicle was built at the factory.
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diff fluid , differential , differential fluid change , differential fluid level , JK Wrangler , maintenance , wrangler

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