Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles - Page 9 - JeepForum.com

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post #121 of 360 Old 10-17-2011, 10:58 AM
fishgutz
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My issue is not DW. It is a shimmy that starts at 40MPH smooths out around 50 and starts again above 72.
Wheels have been balanced twice. Rotated. Smoothed out some after rotation but came back.
The shimmy started when I went from the stock tires to 37's. Lift is 2.5" RK. Shocks are Bilstein 5100's recommended by RK.
Just 10K miles on my JK. <7 on lift kit.
All the bolts are torqued.
One thing I haven't tried it backing of the control arm bolts and re-torquing on level ground.
Any other ideas?

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post #122 of 360 Old 10-18-2011, 01:40 AM
RacerX
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you probably need a lot more forward castor, esp. with that big of tires.
If you don't have enough castor it will be like a shopping cart's wheels.

4-wheeling is about going where others can't won't or don't think it's safe.
Freedom. Exploring the wilderness, or nature, whatever... - NOT paying to go on someone's roller-coaster ride, or go-cart track!
"The price of freedom is eternal vigilance." - Thomas Jefferson
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post #123 of 360 Old 10-18-2011, 03:51 AM
jrmars07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishgutz View Post
My issue is not DW. It is a shimmy that starts at 40MPH smooths out around 50 and starts again above 72.
Wheels have been balanced twice. Rotated. Smoothed out some after rotation but came back.
The shimmy started when I went from the stock tires to 37's. Lift is 2.5" RK. Shocks are Bilstein 5100's recommended by RK.
Just 10K miles on my JK. <7 on lift kit.
All the bolts are torqued.
One thing I haven't tried it backing of the control arm bolts and re-torquing on level ground.
Any other ideas?
I had a similar shimmy that went away when I upgraded my ball joints... my be worth the check to see if your weak stock ones have gone bad.

2010 2dr Wrangler
2.5" ProComp Lift, Front Adj Trackbar, JKS Disco's
Fox Shocks
Tera Front Lower Controls Arms, Rear Upper Control Arms, Synergy HD Balljoints
Tom Woods 1310 Driveshafts
33" KM2's on ProComp 7069 16x8's
Superchips Flashpaq
AEV Premium Front Bumper, IPF 900XSD Lights, Warn 9.5ti w/ Synthetic Line
AEV Rear Bumper, Tuffy Security Deck
D30 Front Sleeved and Gusseted, RCV's, ARB Locked
4.88 G2 Gears
D44 Rear ARB Locked, Chromoly Shafts
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post #124 of 360 Old 10-18-2011, 08:01 AM
speedbucket
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was it a dealer installed lift?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/speedbuckets-zj-build-1361322/
V8 zj at 6" . Double tri rear and true 3 link front. Stretched to 108"
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post #125 of 360 Old 10-18-2011, 08:17 AM Thread Starter
planman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishgutz
My issue is not DW. It is a shimmy that starts at 40MPH smooths out around 50 and starts again above 72.
Wheels have been balanced twice. Rotated. Smoothed out some after rotation but came back.
The shimmy started when I went from the stock tires to 37's. Lift is 2.5" RK. Shocks are Bilstein 5100's recommended by RK.
Just 10K miles on my JK. <7 on lift kit.
All the bolts are torqued.
One thing I haven't tried it backing of the control arm bolts and re-torquing on level ground.
Any other ideas?
Have you done each of the steps in post #2 of this thread?

Yes. You need to loosen the track bar and control arm bolts, vigorously rock the vehicle, and then retorque everything at the correct ride height.

What you describe could be from feathered or cupped tires, bad front upper control arm bushings, failing to remove the lug retainer clips before wheel spacers or aftermarket wheels are used, worn ball joints, poorly torqued or failing drag link or tie rod ends, etc., etc.

You have to inspect everything at once. Fixing individual sources at random lead to chasing your tail. For example, if you drive that way for long, you will feather or cup your tires, and you will still have a shimmy from tires with uneven wear after fixing the original source of the problem.
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post #126 of 360 Old 10-18-2011, 08:27 AM
fishgutz
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Self installed lift. Not dealer installed.
Tires are not cupped yet.
Haven't tried carer adjust yet.
I'll do the loosen and shake for the control arms today when I get home from work.
I have to do the "tests" to see if the ball joints are worn already.
I hope not. They can be a PITA to replace.
I'll start with the easy stuff and go from there.
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post #127 of 360 Old 10-18-2011, 11:01 AM
dsmith13
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I have a shimmy too that gets pretty ruff at times. gana go thru everything as soon as i get a day off. i think my tie rod ends might be junk they have quite a bit of play other then that i hope nothing else is worn
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post #128 of 360 Old 10-22-2011, 12:15 PM
fishgutz
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Loosing, followed by a rockabybaby shakeitupbaby and torque up did the trick. Got her to 70 before I realized I was red lining 3rd. Had Classic Rewind maxed out. Got up to 80 on the highway. Haven't been there since the gears and tires were first put on last April.
Now all I need is a buyer to respond to my ad for it.
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post #129 of 360 Old 10-22-2011, 12:24 PM
dsmith13
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has anybody heard of a shimmy being way worse in the rain? i still need to get mine in the garage and figure it out but i think its a bad balance
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post #130 of 360 Old 11-22-2011, 12:49 PM
VoodooTacos
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Haven't seen anyone speak to this yet - as such I have a question about Rear Trackbars and shimmies.

I'm assuming the answer is that it doesn't really come into play (simply because it's not in Planman's list) - but wanted to make sure it wasn't a contributing factor.

Could a rear trackbar have any bearing on a shimmy? Since moving from a 2.5" BB to a set of 3.5-4" coil lift, I've replaced the front track bar, but left the rear stock with the relocated track bar mount (from the 2.5" BB RC kit).

Should I be looking to replace that as a mitigator to the shimmy I'm experiencing? I still plan on completing Planman's checklist this weekend, would like to add that to the mix (to do it right - all at once) if it could be a contributing factor. (My money is on my ball joints!)

The shimmy itself is bump-steer induced, no consistent speed range, experienced anywhere between 30-70mph.

Thanks for your thoughts.
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post #131 of 360 Old 11-22-2011, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
planman
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post #132 of 360 Old 11-22-2011, 11:07 PM
wilywillie
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When I've had DW, I CANNOT CONTROL MY JEEP!
I slow down to ~45 (on the interstate!), regain control, then cruise at 55 until I hit another seam in the road, repeat...
First time, Jeep put a new, bigger SS on... worked for about 2 years, then it started again out of town (95 north at Quantico, if you know Virginia/DC)
I checked everything on this EXCELLENT list, and nothing was obvious.
I took it to the dealer to have a $45 front end alignment done, and no DW since! WOO HOO

I'm just here for the gasoline. --Max


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post #133 of 360 Old 11-23-2011, 12:59 PM
Avernar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wilywillie View Post
When I've had DW, I CANNOT CONTROL MY JEEP!
I slow down to ~45 (on the interstate!), regain control, then cruise at 55 until I hit another seam in the road, repeat...
First time, Jeep put a new, bigger SS on... worked for about 2 years, then it started again out of town (95 north at Quantico, if you know Virginia/DC)
I checked everything on this EXCELLENT list, and nothing was obvious.
I took it to the dealer to have a $45 front end alignment done, and no DW since! WOO HOO
You just had a normal wobble caused by the bad alignment. It wasn't DW if just slowing down to 45 stopped it.

When you have real DW you need to bring the vehicle to a complete stop to make the shaking stop.
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post #134 of 360 Old 11-23-2011, 04:43 PM
wilywillie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Avernar View Post
You just had a normal wobble caused by the bad alignment. It wasn't DW if just slowing down to 45 stopped it.

When you have real DW you need to bring the vehicle to a complete stop to make the shaking stop.
okay.

I'm just here for the gasoline. --Max


http://i582.photobucket.com/albums/s...earthquake.jpg
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post #135 of 360 Old 11-25-2011, 06:57 PM
VoodooTacos
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In attempt to get rid of my wobble (that developed after I moved from a 2.5" BB to a 4" coil setup), I ran through the checklist today, did everything sans the brake calipers and disks step.

The only thing I found was play in the tie-rod ends, both on the pitman arm side and the passenger steering knuckle side. They both moved about an 1/8" when I put a wrench to it.

Also adjusted the tire pressure from ~32 to 30 and rotated tires. I took a test drive for about 30 miles with the steering stablizer removed and experienced severe wobbles (worst I've ever experienced) requiring me to drop to about (I think) 20mph each time to come out of the wobble (3 times total). Came home, verified the torque on all trackbar and lower control arm bolts again (all still 125). Reattached the stablizer and ran the same course of roads, did not experience any wobbling. Clearly the stablizer is doing it's job, however I wanna fix the underlying cause still.

Will replace the drag link on both sides and report back.
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death wobble , JK Wrangler , shake , shaking , steering shimmy , wheel shimmy , wrangler

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