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Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles

170K views 359 replies 103 participants last post by  orangecrush03 
#1 ·
Here are a couple videos. The first explains your front end. The second is an actual inspection.





I'll start out by explaining that Chrysler decided to use a 14 mm trackbar bolt, with a trackbar bushing sleeve designed for a 9/16" bolt, and the trackbar bracket bolt holes are somewhere around 15-16 mm large. This is a sure recipe for DW if the trackbar bolts are not properly torqued and periodically re-torqued to 125 ft. lbs.



Because my DW posts are buried in other members' threads and in some PMs, here is a thread of its own.

I will also include info on non-DW shimmies and wobbles in the thread.

I will clean it up as I go, but it should be helpful nonetheless.


Death Wobble is no mystery.

It is caused by loose bolts, damaged components, or improper installation.

Look at the picture below and follow along:



First, the tie rod (green) has ends that attach to a knuckle on each side. As you could imagine, if either ends of the tie rod were broken or bad, that could be a culprit for a shimmy (not Death Wobble). A common place to damage the tie rod is on the driver's side at the adjusting sleeve (in the picture, just to the right of the red swaybar link). That sleeve (maybe not the correct term for it, but you can see what I am talking about) allows the width of the tie rod to be expanded or contracted. There are threads on that end that can be damaged, causing play on that driver's side and allow an up and down, or circular play movement. Again, this would cause a shimmy, not Death Wobble.

Next, look at the drag link (purple). On one end, it attaches to the pitman arm (lavender), that attaches to the steering gear box. On the other end, the drag link attaches to the passenger side knuckle. When you turn your steering wheel, a shaft turns that goes to the steering gear box. The steering gear box turns the pitman arm, and the pitman arm pushes or pulls the drag link, which pushes or pulls the knuckle. Your steering wheel is straitened by loosening the two nuts on the sleeve/turnbuckle on the drag link and rotating the sleeve/turnbuckle to lengthen or contract the length of the drag link. If either end of the drag link is damaged, this would cause a wobble or shimmy, but not Death Wobble.

Next, look at the trackbar (aqua). It attaches to a bracket on the frame on the driver's side and to the axle on the passenger side. The purpose of the trackbar is to center the axle on the frame. With the axle centered on the frame, it provides some resistance to the steering system to allow you to turn. If there was no trackbar and you turned the steering, the whole front frame would shift. As a result, there is significant force applied to the trackbar in driving and steering.

Now, imagine that the bolts that hold the trackbar are loose in their bolt holes, or that the bolt holes are wallowed out (oval), or that the bushings at the trackbar ends are damaged, or that the bracket at the axle side has come loose because the weld has broken, or that the bushings are all twisted up because the rig has been lifted without the installer loosening the bolts and then retightened them at the new ride height. All these things would allow play in the front trackbar. When you steer or go around a corner, these loose or broken things would allow the axle to shake or slide side to side. If you hit a bump in the road, it could knock the trackbar towards the driver's side. Then, the rest of the suspension (springs, etc.) would try to bring the trackbar back to the passenger side. If you were going at any sort of speed, you could develop a kind of harmonic resonance as the axle more and more violently slide/rocked/shaked from side to side. It would feel like your whole front end was being voilently torn apart. You would have to bring your vehicle to a complete standstill to stop the harmonic resonance. This is Death Wobble.

Even one incident of violent Death Wobble related to the front trackbar can cause significant damage. The voilent harmonic resonance of the back and forth shaking is more than the trackbar bushings, bolt holes, and brackets are designed to handle. A severe Death Wobble occurance can crack or break the welds on the axle side trackbar bracket, or the bolt can wallow out the bolt hole in the bracket, or the bushing can be permanently damaged.

This is the most common source of Death Wobble because inexperienced installers either do not remove the bolt from the trackbar when they install a lift--leaving the bushing pinched in the bracket and bound up, or they do not properly torque the bolts after the lift has been installed with the tires on and the full weight of the vehicle on the ground at ride height, or (maybe the most common) they do not retorque the trackbar bolts after the first 50 miles, after every heavy wheeling trip, and at every oil change interval.

Next, look at the lower control arms (purple) and the upper control arms (light blue). In the picture, they are aftermarket arms with a heim joint on one end. However, the stock control arms have a rubber bushing at each end. When the control arms are properly torqued, the bushing is somewhat pinched in the mounting brackets on the axle and the frame. Sometimes, an installer will make the mistake of not loosening the bolts for the control arms when they install a lift. What happens sometimes is they really bind up the bushings because they are pinched/sandwiched at stock ride height, but then forced to the new lifted ride height. These bound up bushings can cause weird handling, bushing failure, and lead to Death Wobble. The proper way is to loosen the bolts, install the lift, reinstall the wheels so the suspension and jeep are at the new ride height, rock the vehicle/suspension back and forth and side to side, then re-torque the bolts to spec, then after 50 miles re-torque them to spec, then after every oil change or very heavy wheeling trip re-torque them to spec.

Improperly balanced tires, too much air in tires, bent wheels, improperly installed wheel spacers, bad tires (with separated plys), and poor alignment specs (caster, camber, and not enough toe-in) can cause wobbles and shimmies that lead to Death Wobble. However, these precipitate Death Wobble, but they are not the cause of Death Wobble.

Although not specifically identified in the picture, the ball joints that are at the top and bottom of each knuckle where it attaches to the axle C can go bad. Bad ball joints can cause shimmies, wobbles, but usually not full on Death Wobble.

Next, allthough not identified in the picture, the unit bearings can go bad and be a cause of shimmy and wobble, but not Death Wobble.

Hope this helps--assuming you read it all.

Death Wobble is no mystery.

The reason that the steering stabilizer masks it is that it can absorb some of the side to side voilent harmonics of a loose trackbar or damaged mounts. However, this masking is dangerous because it will not prevent the eventual failure of trackbar bracket welds and bolt holes from trackbar Death Wobble.

It is extremely important to immediately diagnose and fix Death Wobble.

Even one episode of DW can damage other components.

Multiple episodes of DW are almost guaranteed to damage other components.

Multiple episodes will often damage your:

  • ball joints
  • tie rod ends--including the adjusting sleeve end on the driver side
  • trackbar bushings
  • trackbar bracket bolt holes
  • steering sector shaft (where the pitman arm attaches to the steering box)
  • steering stabilizer
  • front lower control arm bracket bolt holes
  • unit bearings
  • trackbar bracket welds
  • drag link ends

Hellbound13 is an example of a member who with 5-6 episodes of trackbar related DW on a stock jeep ended up "chasing his tail" for many, many months. He ended up replacing almost everything in the above list--sometimes more than once.

Without repairing/replacing everything that was damaged at once, the remaining damaged components continued to cause DW problems, further damaging the remaining components.


This is Death Wobble (and the guy is extremely foolish for repeating it on purpose):

 
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#283 ·
Jgleas114 said:
How do I know I need my tires balance or I have the DW? When I hit 50 mph I get the wobble then at 55 it fades. Jeep owner for 4 weeks . I have 265/70/27 with a simple 1.5 leveling kit on it .
In addition to the tires being out of balance, it could be aggravated by twisted/binding/pre-loaded rubber bushings if all the front control arm and trackbar bolts were not loosened for the leveling kit install,and then the installer waited to torque the bolts until after the full weight of the vehicle was on the ground at the new ride height.
 
#284 ·
Astennis1 said:
I have a shimmy in my front end at 50 mph that varies from suddle to a little scary. Most of the time it just barely wobbles until i get past about 53. When my doors are off I can see my front end going back and forth a little bit at that speed. I just did a full inspection on my steering and found my drag link a little loose. Tires are balanced and I took off the front drive shaft to see if thats the issue and it is not. I am going to replace the draglink, but the problem is I have an AEV draglink that required me to drill a 7/8" hole in the upper knuckle. Can I/ Do I need to replace that piece so that another drag link can fit in the knuckle? I may replace the track bar as well and inspect the track bar bracket. This problem started about a year after I lifted and it started when I would hit a bump it would shake. Now it only shakes at this speed regardless of road condition.
If it happens every time you reach 50 mph, you need your tires rebalanced.

Also, the worn/loose drag link is the reason for when it gets scary.

The AEV drag link is simply a right hand drive drag link. It shouldn't cost much to get a stock, right hand drive JK drag link to replace it.
 
#288 ·
I just had my tires balanced a week ago and this is still happening. Im about to just order Synergy drag link, ball joints (seeing as they apparently all go bad), and a new trac bar. I plan on going to 37s in the next few years and figure Ill need them anyways
 
#285 ·
just dont get it from AEV. its like a 80 dollar part. The stock trackbar is rubbish too. I would get Synergy flip drag link since you have the AEV(cost more but worth it). it will last and wont flex like a stock part. Track bar from jeep is rubbish too. Go with a good aftermarket. most my AEV kit went FUBAR in about two years of use since they use mostly stock parts that just wont handle larger tires very long. My Ball joints were totally shot at 20K and did not cause DW but odd handling. felt loose with a dead point at center.
 
#286 ·
222Doc said:
My Ball joints were totally shot at 20K and did not cause DW but odd handling. felt loose with a dead point at center.
I had this problem too then figured out my track bar wasn't to torque. Tightened it down and the 'dead spot' went away but I still had odd handling. Then I figured out my Crown ball joints were shot after only 1 year/29,000 miles so I just ordered new Synergy ball joints to try and tighten my steering back up. Hope to have them installed within a couple weeks.

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#290 ·
I'm getting ready to do a full tear-down of components as I keep chasing this problem little by little (and little by little it goes away). At this point because of the severity this was happening with our Jeep, I imagine more is "bad" than meets they eye, so it's time for a concentrated weekend effort at tearing things down and replacing what's bad. My last inspection revealed a ball joint might be getting out of spec so I figure I'm going to just "do it all" knowing we've put way more miles on this than it should probably go before replacing parts. This in addition to the track bar bolts always loosening a bit causing the DW to return.

We have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee.

I'd like to know the best recommendation for a replacement Track bar and aftermarket ball joints and perhaps other links like tie-rod ends. I typically buy everything from Napa with a military discount. If there are -better- parts to use, please let me know. I've seen a few different vendor names thrown around and thought I should ask what the latest and best recommendation is.

This thread has been great, but it's getting a bit long to go back through and try to figure out all the best vendor parts. If I might make a suggestion, maybe post a list of recommended aftermarket replacement items up front with the diagnosis information.

At this point because the track bar bolts seem to always loosen after a few thousand miles I plan to replace the track bar and the bolts.

Thank you for the info.
Asa Jay
 
#291 ·
asajay said:
I'm getting ready to do a full tear-down of components as I keep chasing this problem little by little (and little by little it goes away). At this point because of the severity this was happening with our Jeep, I imagine more is "bad" than meets they eye, so it's time for a concentrated weekend effort at tearing things down and replacing what's bad. My last inspection revealed a ball joint might be getting out of spec so I figure I'm going to just "do it all" knowing we've put way more miles on this than it should probably go before replacing parts. This in addition to the track bar bolts always loosening a bit causing the DW to return. We have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I'd like to know the best recommendation for a replacement Track bar and aftermarket ball joints and perhaps other links like tie-rod ends. I typically buy everything from Napa with a military discount. If there are -better- parts to use, please let me know. I've seen a few different vendor names thrown around and thought I should ask what the latest and best recommendation is. This thread has been great, but it's getting a bit long to go back through and try to figure out all the best vendor parts. If I might make a suggestion, maybe post a list of recommended aftermarket replacement items up front with the diagnosis information. At this point because the track bar bolts seem to always loosen after a few thousand miles I plan to replace the track bar and the bolts. Thank you for the info. Asa Jay
How much lift? I like JKS, Currie, and Metalcloak trackbars for TJ/XJ/ZJ models.

I like Synergy ball joints.

For TJ/XJ/ZJ steering, I like Currie and the Crown ZJ V8 setup.
 
#292 ·
How much lift?
Stock, no lift kits installed. It's my wife's everyday driver, and if I installed a lift, I'd need to install stairs.;)

Thank you for the recommendations; I've been scouring the forums for vendor names and reviews as well.

Since there is also a "budget" problem involved, I've decided to attack this in two stages. I don't want to buy "cheap" parts, so I can't afford everything all at once.

First will be the track bar and all control arm bushings. All else appears tight right now. The second phase will replace all the steering components; the drag link and both tie-rod ends, and all ball joints.

I'm leaning toward Napa Chassis Parts for the track bar and bushings in phase 1. I'll probably go with the Napa Chassis Parts for the steering items as well, -except- for the ball joints. I'm looking at either Dana or XRF maybe, depending on price.

We've put enough miles on this rig that I don't feel bad about replacing everything; it's probably due.

Asa Jay
 
#293 ·
help

Have 2004 jeep Rubicon stock. Was in for alignment. Was perfect but, I made a left turn and big pop and the steering wheel was at 10:00. Looked under and saw the drag link bolts were not tight. took it back, they tighten and said they had to tighten the tie rod end,I guess that means sleeve. They say that the alignment is now in spec, but now starting at 40mph there is a wobble on the driver side wheel. My guess is that the drag link is damaged and or sleeve. any suggestions.
 
#294 ·
futermohlen said:
Have 2004 jeep Rubicon stock. Was in for alignment. Was perfect but, I made a left turn and big pop and the steering wheel was at 10:00. Looked under and saw the drag link bolts were not tight. took it back, they tighten and said they had to tighten the tie rod end,I guess that means sleeve. They say that the alignment is now in spec, but now starting at 40mph there is a wobble on the driver side wheel. My guess is that the drag link is damaged and or sleeve. any suggestions.
Read the first 2 posts of the thread in this link:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/d...g-non-dw-shimmies-wobbles-tj-version-2359089/
 
#295 ·
As suggested, read the first two posts, they are very helpful, oh, -and- watch the videos, they help explain a lot.

Now to add my two cents. As I noted a couple of posts back, I'm attacking the whole front end a piece at a time. A few weeks ago I replaced the track bar and all control arm bushings. Most of the control arm bushings were shot; rubber cracked all the way through allowing a lot of movement when the death wobble ensued.

I actually have video captured from underneath the Jeep showing how badly the front axle moves in relation to a lower control arm bushing being bad. It's pretty bad.

Two days ago I replaced all four ball joints. The old ones seemed alright but once I got them off you could "find" the installed spot and they had a bit more play in that position. I replaced all four with Synergy ball joints (one of several different brands that seem to be recommended), and lubed them up liberally.

Right now the Jeep seems to drive better than ever. I only have a few more items remaining on the list, the drag link, both tie-rod ends and shocks all the way around. The rear shocks go in today, the fronts haven't arrived yet. Next weekend may see me get the rest of the steering linkage components replaced.

So far I think the greatest improvements have been from the track bar, the control arm bushings, and the tie-rod end -at- the pitman arm on the steering gearbox.

The death wobble on ours was so severe (when it happened) that I'm sure it had to be hammering other parts of the entire system, so to us it's been well worth it to simply go through and replace everything a little at a time.

Also of note is our Jeep has over 200,000 miles on it, about a third of which we've put on and never replaced anything until now. No telling when any of these parts were last replaced, if ever.

Asa Jay
 
#296 ·
My jeep is a 2007 bone stock but with P255/75 17 tires.
I recently had both tie rod ends on the drag link replaced.
The alignment was just completed. It was out bad. I have swapped all the tires in different locations and balanced multiple times, I still have a wobble at 62mph and it seems to be worse in the turns and uphill after the alignment.

Trackbar mounts, I went with 9/16" bolts but the axle side mounting hole nearest the front axle still has about a 1/16" slop. The bolt is tight on the front mount and thru the trackbar bushing. I am looking for a tapered nut (lug nut) to fill the slop. Will that work? Once a trackbar has death wobble, does it weaken and become more susceptible to DW.
I torqued up all the control arm bolts, I did not see anything out with that. I am being told that all components are tight and within specifications. I bought the Jeep used with 60K and now have 110K, I do believe that it may still have the original ball joints as there are no grease fittings... Is that even possible?
 
#297 ·
westt said:
My jeep is a 2007 bone stock but with P255/75 17 tires.
I recently had both tie rod ends on the drag link replaced.
The alignment was just completed. It was out bad. I have swapped all the tires in different locations and balanced multiple times, I still have a wobble at 62mph and it seems to be worse in the turns and uphill after the alignment.

Trackbar mounts, I went with 9/16" bolts but the axle side mounting hole nearest the front axle still has about a 1/16" slop. The bolt is tight on the front mount and thru the trackbar bushing. I am looking for a tapered nut (lug nut) to fill the slop. Will that work? Once a trackbar has death wobble, does it weaken and become more susceptible to DW.
I torqued up all the control arm bolts, I did not see anything out with that. I am being told that all components are tight and within specifications. I bought the Jeep used with 60K and now have 110K, I do believe that it may still have the original ball joints as there are no grease fittings... Is that even possible?
Stock ball joints don't have grease zerts. I'd replaced ball joints before anything else

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#298 ·
Perform the inspections described in the beginning of this thread to determine all your sources. Then, fix what is wrong.

The clamping force of the trackbar bolt when torqued may be sufficient that the 1/16" variance from the bolt to the hole won't cause a problem. It depends on how the bushing bolt sleeve sits in the bracket and whether the variance doesn't allow it to sit flush on the bracket. If you torque it to spec and there is a clunk when you do a dry steering test, you'll need to fix the hole with welded on washers.

It takes maybe 10 minutes max to test your ball joints. I show how in one of the videos at the beginning of the thread.
 
#300 ·
I don't know about your Jeep, but our 1995 ZJ series has to use different bushings in each end of the control arm. It's a tricky bit and you need to pay attention. The front tabs on the body of the Jeep are spaced differently tshan the rear (this is on the bottom arm, the top only has one bushing in the control arm).

If someone installed the wrong bushing, you'll have slop. The difference as I recall is less than an 1/8th inch, but I don't think you'll be able to tighten a bolt to make that up.

Check it carefully, it might have an incorrect bushing installed.
 
#301 ·
OK, I would like to give a shout out to Mr Tire in Canton, Ohio. I will say these guys went the extra mile or two in an effort to fix the death wobble. After my last DW episode, I brought it to them and they racked and after prying around all items were tight except tie rod ends. They had me come in the next day early to start the work. As they began working and digging around they realized the trackbar bushings were sick also. They ordered a trackbar and had to drive an hour to get it, that is after they found a stock one (no lift). When they went to do the tie rods the center link was shot and the tie rods were not coming out. Had to order that from a dealer and drive to pick that up. All this in one day and I had the vehicle back by 5. She is tight and better, I have more confidence in driving her.
When the death wobble was lingering around, I actually would grip the steering wheel till my knuckles were white - every bump seemed like a catastrophe ready to strike! It does not feel that way now! Yippee
 
#302 ·
westt said:
OK, I would like to give a shout out to Mr Tire in Canton, Ohio. I will say these guys went the extra mile or two in an effort to fix the death wobble. After my last DW episode, I brought it to them and they racked and after prying around all items were tight except tie rod ends. They had me come in the next day early to start the work. As they began working and digging around they realized the trackbar bushings were sick also. They ordered a trackbar and had to drive an hour to get it, that is after they found a stock one (no lift). When they went to do the tie rods the center link was shot and the tie rods were not coming out. Had to order that from a dealer and drive to pick that up. All this in one day and I had the vehicle back by 5. She is tight and better, I have more confidence in driving her.
When the death wobble was lingering around, I actually would grip the steering wheel till my knuckles were white - every bump seemed like a catastrophe ready to strike! It does not feel that way now! Yippee
That's pretty kick-*** that they did all that for you!

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#303 ·
Yeah, Mike was excellent. He had a Cherokee and had several Wranglers in over the last year. He knew DW and actually pulled a TSB up from Chrysler that pretty much followed Planmans write up. He invested some time in it that is for sure.

I actually told him that I would give a shout out in Jeep Forum for the awesome work they did.

It is a good feeling when someone does not recommend a steering stabilizer to fix DW.
 
#304 ·
Is anyone else mad as hell over the g-damn DW?

Shouldnt this at-least be a recall if not something more actionable?

Especially considering the following:

I'll start out by explaining that Chrysler decided to use a 14 mm trackbar bolt, with a trackbar bushing sleeve designed for a 9/16" bolt, and the trackbar bracket bolt holes are somewhere around 15-16 mm large. This is a sure recipe for DW if the trackbar bolts are not properly torqued and periodically re-torqued to 125 ft. lbs.
http://www.thecarconnection.com/new...re-chrysler-posts-advice-on-jeep-death-wobble

http://sanfrancisco.legalexaminer.c...g-about-the-death-wobble-before-someone-dies/

Anyway, theres no way I could do this diagnosis on my own.

How should I go about finding someone who knows what theyre doing with regards to this nightmare.
 
#305 ·
Is anyone else mad as hell over the g-damn DW?

Shouldnt this at-least be a recall if not something more actionable?

Especially considering the following:

http://www.thecarconnection.com/new...re-chrysler-posts-advice-on-jeep-death-wobble

http://sanfrancisco.legalexaminer.c...g-about-the-death-wobble-before-someone-dies/

Anyway, theres no way I could do this diagnosis on my own.

How should I go about finding someone who knows what theyre doing with regards to this nightmare.
The smaller bolts do not cause DW. If the jeep is not sufficiently maintained, with a periodic re-torquing of the front trackbar bolts, the smaller bolts make the DW worse.

A properly maintained jeep will never see DW.

Chrysler does have a technical service bulletin of the items to check. Some dealers are just to lazy to find it.

I did the videos at the beginning of this thread to show how easy it is to diagnose the most common sources. Watch the two YouTube videos before you decide that you cannot do anything yourself.
 
#306 ·
I just want to give everyone a heads up.
In my effort to "cleanse" the jeep of DW, I did a bad, bad thing. 3 weeks ago, in my initial make sure everything is tight phase, I tightened up the front upper shock absorber nut and bushings. Basically, they were squeezed tight.

As you know, last week I had the track bar and tie rods replaced. Since the replacement things felt tighter but seemed harsher, I attributed the rougher ride with the new suspension parts. No DW but "jittery" on some bumps.
Last night, I started thinking about my shocks and tightening of that upper nut - duh, the upper nut is to be only 27lbs of torque and the bushings should not be compressed to the point of not being compliant. I loosened them up to where the bushings are even with the washers and wahoo, the ride is amazing.

If you have a rough ride up front, please make sure that your shock upper bushings are not compressed to the point where they have no give.
 
#307 ·
Need some suggestions

So I removed my trac bar and there is a lot of play in the mounting brackets holes and some slop in the sleeves of the bushing ends. The bolts don't seem damaged (no thread crush or wear to the naked eye). So here is my dilemma. Knowing there are several options to fix this, or at least make it better. I could weld on washers, I have a welder, but my concern is adequate access to the backside holes without completely removing axle. I could get bigger bolts and drill out the bushing sleeves, which doesn't seem to be an optimal solution for me. So, I would like to get a new, beefier trac bar with bigger bolts and just drill the mount holes to accept them.

Does anyone know if one exists that has bigger bolts, but would work on stock (no lift) 07 JKUR? That info would save me a lot of searching and guessing and would be greatly appreciated.
 
#308 ·
As part of our repair, we replace the track bar with a new one The holes in teh mount were larger than the hole in the steel sleeve of the new track bar.

Using a good steel cutting drill bit, in a drill press, and using cutting fluid, we drilled the sleeve to the next larger size bolt. Plenty of material in the sleeve. Now the bolt has as little play as possible in the ears that hold that end of the track bar.

We did this as opposed to welding smaller washers on the tabs. In our case with the ZJ, we had zero access to the back side for welding. There is barely enough room to get the stinkin' wrench back there to hold the nut.

So far we've done the following:
- Replaced all bushings on the control arms, top/bottom, front back (except for those in the diff housing).
- Replaced all ball joints (that is helluva chore).
- Replaced the track bar
- Replaced the pitman arm end of the drag link
- Replaced all shocks with new KYB gas-adjust

So far, the Jeep is driving nicely again. Still to do:
- Replace the drag link
- Replace the tie-rod (both ends)
- By then it will be time to have the tires rebalanced

And just a note, re-grease everything at every oil change.
Asa Jay
 
#309 ·
So I do not have death wobble but I do have a shimmy/wiggle in my front end. I can grab my tie rod and it has a little slop in it. It is not side to side movement, more that I can twist it and cause it to rotate a little bit. Is it supposed to do this? If not, I have just been looking at synergy high steer tie rods on quadratec for 200$, good replacement?
 
#310 ·
Yes, it has to be able to rotate. You don't want the tie JOINTS to have up and down or side to side movement, they have to be able to rotate. They are balls in a socket.

I would bet your wobble shimmy is related to your tires. Try rotating and balancing.
 
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