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Diagnosing Death Wobble and Fixing Non-DW Shimmies and Wobbles

170K views 359 replies 103 participants last post by  orangecrush03 
#1 ·
Here are a couple videos. The first explains your front end. The second is an actual inspection.





I'll start out by explaining that Chrysler decided to use a 14 mm trackbar bolt, with a trackbar bushing sleeve designed for a 9/16" bolt, and the trackbar bracket bolt holes are somewhere around 15-16 mm large. This is a sure recipe for DW if the trackbar bolts are not properly torqued and periodically re-torqued to 125 ft. lbs.



Because my DW posts are buried in other members' threads and in some PMs, here is a thread of its own.

I will also include info on non-DW shimmies and wobbles in the thread.

I will clean it up as I go, but it should be helpful nonetheless.


Death Wobble is no mystery.

It is caused by loose bolts, damaged components, or improper installation.

Look at the picture below and follow along:



First, the tie rod (green) has ends that attach to a knuckle on each side. As you could imagine, if either ends of the tie rod were broken or bad, that could be a culprit for a shimmy (not Death Wobble). A common place to damage the tie rod is on the driver's side at the adjusting sleeve (in the picture, just to the right of the red swaybar link). That sleeve (maybe not the correct term for it, but you can see what I am talking about) allows the width of the tie rod to be expanded or contracted. There are threads on that end that can be damaged, causing play on that driver's side and allow an up and down, or circular play movement. Again, this would cause a shimmy, not Death Wobble.

Next, look at the drag link (purple). On one end, it attaches to the pitman arm (lavender), that attaches to the steering gear box. On the other end, the drag link attaches to the passenger side knuckle. When you turn your steering wheel, a shaft turns that goes to the steering gear box. The steering gear box turns the pitman arm, and the pitman arm pushes or pulls the drag link, which pushes or pulls the knuckle. Your steering wheel is straitened by loosening the two nuts on the sleeve/turnbuckle on the drag link and rotating the sleeve/turnbuckle to lengthen or contract the length of the drag link. If either end of the drag link is damaged, this would cause a wobble or shimmy, but not Death Wobble.

Next, look at the trackbar (aqua). It attaches to a bracket on the frame on the driver's side and to the axle on the passenger side. The purpose of the trackbar is to center the axle on the frame. With the axle centered on the frame, it provides some resistance to the steering system to allow you to turn. If there was no trackbar and you turned the steering, the whole front frame would shift. As a result, there is significant force applied to the trackbar in driving and steering.

Now, imagine that the bolts that hold the trackbar are loose in their bolt holes, or that the bolt holes are wallowed out (oval), or that the bushings at the trackbar ends are damaged, or that the bracket at the axle side has come loose because the weld has broken, or that the bushings are all twisted up because the rig has been lifted without the installer loosening the bolts and then retightened them at the new ride height. All these things would allow play in the front trackbar. When you steer or go around a corner, these loose or broken things would allow the axle to shake or slide side to side. If you hit a bump in the road, it could knock the trackbar towards the driver's side. Then, the rest of the suspension (springs, etc.) would try to bring the trackbar back to the passenger side. If you were going at any sort of speed, you could develop a kind of harmonic resonance as the axle more and more violently slide/rocked/shaked from side to side. It would feel like your whole front end was being voilently torn apart. You would have to bring your vehicle to a complete standstill to stop the harmonic resonance. This is Death Wobble.

Even one incident of violent Death Wobble related to the front trackbar can cause significant damage. The voilent harmonic resonance of the back and forth shaking is more than the trackbar bushings, bolt holes, and brackets are designed to handle. A severe Death Wobble occurance can crack or break the welds on the axle side trackbar bracket, or the bolt can wallow out the bolt hole in the bracket, or the bushing can be permanently damaged.

This is the most common source of Death Wobble because inexperienced installers either do not remove the bolt from the trackbar when they install a lift--leaving the bushing pinched in the bracket and bound up, or they do not properly torque the bolts after the lift has been installed with the tires on and the full weight of the vehicle on the ground at ride height, or (maybe the most common) they do not retorque the trackbar bolts after the first 50 miles, after every heavy wheeling trip, and at every oil change interval.

Next, look at the lower control arms (purple) and the upper control arms (light blue). In the picture, they are aftermarket arms with a heim joint on one end. However, the stock control arms have a rubber bushing at each end. When the control arms are properly torqued, the bushing is somewhat pinched in the mounting brackets on the axle and the frame. Sometimes, an installer will make the mistake of not loosening the bolts for the control arms when they install a lift. What happens sometimes is they really bind up the bushings because they are pinched/sandwiched at stock ride height, but then forced to the new lifted ride height. These bound up bushings can cause weird handling, bushing failure, and lead to Death Wobble. The proper way is to loosen the bolts, install the lift, reinstall the wheels so the suspension and jeep are at the new ride height, rock the vehicle/suspension back and forth and side to side, then re-torque the bolts to spec, then after 50 miles re-torque them to spec, then after every oil change or very heavy wheeling trip re-torque them to spec.

Improperly balanced tires, too much air in tires, bent wheels, improperly installed wheel spacers, bad tires (with separated plys), and poor alignment specs (caster, camber, and not enough toe-in) can cause wobbles and shimmies that lead to Death Wobble. However, these precipitate Death Wobble, but they are not the cause of Death Wobble.

Although not specifically identified in the picture, the ball joints that are at the top and bottom of each knuckle where it attaches to the axle C can go bad. Bad ball joints can cause shimmies, wobbles, but usually not full on Death Wobble.

Next, allthough not identified in the picture, the unit bearings can go bad and be a cause of shimmy and wobble, but not Death Wobble.

Hope this helps--assuming you read it all.

Death Wobble is no mystery.

The reason that the steering stabilizer masks it is that it can absorb some of the side to side voilent harmonics of a loose trackbar or damaged mounts. However, this masking is dangerous because it will not prevent the eventual failure of trackbar bracket welds and bolt holes from trackbar Death Wobble.

It is extremely important to immediately diagnose and fix Death Wobble.

Even one episode of DW can damage other components.

Multiple episodes of DW are almost guaranteed to damage other components.

Multiple episodes will often damage your:

  • ball joints
  • tie rod ends--including the adjusting sleeve end on the driver side
  • trackbar bushings
  • trackbar bracket bolt holes
  • steering sector shaft (where the pitman arm attaches to the steering box)
  • steering stabilizer
  • front lower control arm bracket bolt holes
  • unit bearings
  • trackbar bracket welds
  • drag link ends

Hellbound13 is an example of a member who with 5-6 episodes of trackbar related DW on a stock jeep ended up "chasing his tail" for many, many months. He ended up replacing almost everything in the above list--sometimes more than once.

Without repairing/replacing everything that was damaged at once, the remaining damaged components continued to cause DW problems, further damaging the remaining components.


This is Death Wobble (and the guy is extremely foolish for repeating it on purpose):

 
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#2 · (Edited)
NEW, UPDATED DIAGNOSIS CHECKLIST

Assuming your tire psi is 28-30, your tires/wheels have been balanced and rotated to make sure the wobble doesn't move with the rotation, here would be my order:

  1. Remove the steering stabilizer.
  2. Have someone turn the engine on and turn slowly from full lock to full lock while I visually, manually (with my hands on the components), and auditorily inspect for any play in the tie rod ends, drag link ends, sector shaft, trackbar ends/bolts/brackets, and trackbar bracket welds.
  3. Then, do the same thing but with short, sharp, quick back and forth turns of the steering wheel between the 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock positions, instead of the slow, lock to lock approach.
  4. Then, I would remove the front trackbar to inspect the bolt holes for ovaling and inspect the trackbar bushings for separation or cracking with a long screw driver through the bolt sleeve and the trackbar in a vise to leverage against the bushing in all directions. If all is good, I would reinstall the trackbar with the tires on the ground at ride height to 125 lbs.
  5. Then, I would inspect the drag link end joints by using a large channel lock wrench that gave me enough leverage to check for up and down play in the drag link ends. There should not be any meaningful up and down play. If there is, the ends should be replaced, or a new drag link with heavy duty joints should be installed. After, I would check the torque of the drag link ends. Taller lifts magnify the problems of bad drag link ends.
  6. Then, I would inspect the tie rod ends with the channel lock wrench for up and down movement. There should be no meaningful up and down play. There should only be rotational movement in the joint end.
  7. Then, I would put the front axle on jack stands with the tires about 2" off the ground and check the front ball joints by using a long pry bar as a lever under the front tires to lift them up to inspect for up and down play in the lower ball joints. There shouldn't be more than maybe 1-2 mm.
  8. Then, I would grab the top of the tire with both hands and push it towards the frame and pull it away from the frame to inspect for lateral movement of the top ball joints. There shouldn't be any.
  9. Then, I would remove the front tires/wheels and remove the front tie rod--one knuckle at a time. Then with a large wrench or vice grips, I would inspect the end for side to side play. Then I would reinstall the end and torque to spec and repeat on the other side.
  10. Then, I would remove the brake calipers and brake disks to inspect the unitbearings for play.
  11. Then, I would reinstall the discs, brake calipers, and tires/wheels and set the axle back on the ground.
  12. Then, I would support but not lift the front axle with a floor jack and loosen the front control arm bolts (upper and lower on the axle side). One at a time, I would drop the control arms to inspect the bolt holes and bushings (similar to with the trackbar), reinstall without torquing, and do the next one.
  13. Next, I would inspect the sector shaft that comes out of the steering box for cracking or twisting.
  14. Then, I would take a test drive without the steering stablizer to feel for any wobbles.
  15. Finally, I would reinstall the steering stablizer or spring $40 for a heavy duty steering stablizer.

If this front end inspection does not diagnose and/or solve it, then I would move to an alignment.

  1. I would use adjustable lower front control arms to set my caster spec between 4 and 5 degrees--with a cross caster that has less on the driver side than the passenger side. I would personally not do more or less, with a target around 4.5-4.7 degrees caster.
  2. If my camber is out of spec, but it is not due to failed ball joints, I would install offset ball joints to get my camber in spec.
  3. I would set my toe-in to spec on the machine--which is about a 1/16"-1/8" toe-in depending on tire size.
  4. If my front to rear alignment is off, I would install rear lower adjustable control arms to fix this.

Also, I recommend you switch out your stock 14 mm trackbar bolts for 9/16" grade 8 bolts.

See the following video for more information:



With all this, I highly doubt you do not find the source.

The last ditch thing if there is a non-DW, speed dependent range wobble, I would borrow a different set of wheels and tires to see if it changes, and I would try driving it with no front driveshaft to see if that changes anything.

Although it is always a good idea to inspect your axle shaft u-joints, they will not cause DW.

The most common sources of full on DW are:

  • Improperly torqued trackbar bolts
  • Damaged trackbar and control arm bushings because bolts were torqued on a car lift or while the vehicle was not at ride height with the tires on the ground. When you torque trackbar and control arm bolts, the bracket pinches the bolt sleeve in the bushing, as well as the bushing itself. If this is at a geometry other than actual ride height, the bushings are twisted/bound/pre-loaded, and they will eventually fail/separate/etc. If you have a flex joint end, this does not apply for that end.
  • Ovaled out trackbar bracket holes due to DW episodes from loose bolts.
 
#7 ·
Thanks guys. Left unfixed, full on DW can be very dangerous. I have a friend who rolled & totaled his rig at 70 mph due to DW causing him to lose control. So I figured it needed a thread of its own.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for this informative post, Planman. I've got an '06 TJ that has had the DW's since I installed the OME 2.5" HD lift. That was several years ago, and the DW's have been a bother ever since. My worry now is that I'll be replacing a lot of front end bits. Unfortunately, after over $1300 in alignment and mount & balance jobs, I think I'm going to be hosed with the repair bill if I suggest any of this.

Now, if I could find a competent mechanic in the Fairfax, VA area, I'd feel a little better.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for this informative post, Planman. I've got an '06 TJ that has had the DW's since I installed the OME 2.5" HD lift. That was several years ago, and the DW's have been a bother ever since. My worry now is that I'll be replacing a lot of front end bits. Unfortunately, after over $1300 in alignment and mount & balance jobs, I think I'm going to be hosed with the repair bill if I suggest any of this.

Now, if I could find a competent mechanic in the Fairfax, VA area, I'd feel a little better.
Thanks.

I have actually had experienced, competent mechanics find value in this thread. I'd recommend you suggest the thread to them & then ask them about each component.
 
#14 ·
I think I found my culprit: the ball joint at the top end of the RE track bar. I had my wife turn the steering wheel while I was looking at the various joints and saw it moving around. Now to figure out how to go about fixing it.

Right now, I'm thinking about replacing the trackbar. I also plan on replacing the swaybar tie-ins.
 

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#16 ·
I think I found my culprit: the ball joint at the top end of the RE track bar. I had my wife turn the steering wheel while I was looking at the various joints and saw it moving around. Now to figure out how to go about fixing it.

Right now, I'm thinking about replacing the trackbar. I also plan on replacing the swaybar tie-ins.
If you go back in with that same style heim, put a wide-enough washer between the bottom of the heim and the bolt so that if/when it fails, the trackbar will not fall completely off the mount resulting in an accident. :thumbsup:
 
#17 ·
Planman. Wow great thread packed with great information for a newb such as myself. After experiencing possible DW last night going about 40-45mph I got my work cut out checking out the various components that could have caused the problem.

Is there a recommend place to start checking and then work from there? I would also like to mention that I have smashed my stock SS on a rock while wheeling the other weekend and didn’t realize it till last night. Monday I thought that the steering wheel was not centered properly and then last night as stated I experienced DW. Advice on where I should start looking first would be great because this is my first experence with it and would like to fix it before it gets worse then it is. Thanks:cheers2:
 
#18 ·
Did you experience Death Wobble like in the youtube video?

If not, I'd remove the steering stabilizer, then check your alignment & straighten your steering wheel. An alignment takes 15-20 mins max with a wrench, pliers, measuring tape, and a helper for measuring & telling you when the steering wheel is straight.

If you just had a wobble/shimmy at those speeds but it was nothing like the video & did not require coming to almost a complete stop to stop the harmonic resonance/vibration of the suspension, then drive it without the steering stabilizer to make sure you fixed the source.

If you still have wobbles/shimmies, then do the steps I list in post #2 of this thread.
 
#19 ·
I would yes, it was shaking pretty violently I thought. It happened after I hit a hole. It started shaking and as soon as I felt the first couple of shakes I applied the brakes to turn into a neighborhood that was about 250 feet away. When I got down to about 5-10 mph right before I was going to make the turn it stopped, I got out and looked under to see if I could visually see any problems. I saw nothing wrong other then the SS damaged. The other problem is that I am new at this and am not exactly sure what to be looking for or at to be able to tell if something else is damaged as you have stated.

So, if what I am experiencing is like the video the recommendation would be to do what.

This might be a stupid question but I look on project JK to read how to do an alignment but how do you center the steering wheel. Do you know of a write up on this or is it in doing the alignment it in fact centers the steering wheel.
 
#20 ·
The first part of the alignment write-up explains how to center your steering wheel:

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource

It sounds like you had Death Wobble instead of a non-DW wobble or shimmy.

So, you will want to systematically inspect each component.

First, remove the front trackbar to inspect the bushings for damage and the bracket bolt holes for being ovaled out.

To inspect the bushings for damage, slide a large screwdriver through the bushing sleeve and flex it so you can look for cracks or separation in the bushings. If the bushings are damaged, they either need to be replaced or the trackbar should be replaced.

If the bolt holes are ovaled out, then the correct bolt hole size washers should be welded in place on the brackets to cover the ovaled out holes.

With the trackbar removed, inspect the welds on both the axle side and frame side trackbar brackets. If there is any cracking in the welds, they need to be re-welded.

When you are done, reinstall the trackbar with the bolts loose with the tires on the ground and the suspension at ride height.. Vigorously rock the vehicle forward and back, and side to side. Then torque the bolts to 125 ft lbs.

Second, you need to inspect the drag link and tie rod ends.

Torque the ends to proper specs. Here is a link to the JK torque specs:

Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource

Then, have someone slowly turn the steering side to side and back again (with the engine running so the power steering is operative) while you inspect the tie rod and drag link ends for lateral movement. (Rotational movement is necessary for the suspension to cycle, but lateral, side-to-side movement indicates damage.)

A common place for damage is in the adjusting sleeve on the driver side of the tie rod. Sometimes to inspect this end, you have to remove the driver side front wheel and remove the rod end from the knuckle to see if there is play in the end without any opposing forces from the vehicle, steering, etc.

If the tie rod ends and the drag link ends are good, then move on.

Third, check the ball joints. I explain how to do that in #5 of my post #2 of this thread.

Fourth, check the bolt holes and bushings for the front lower control arms--one side at a time. (Do not remove the bolts from both lower control arms at the same time because it is a pain to get everything back together if you do.)

Anyway, between this post and post #2, you should have some work to do.
 
#24 ·
Planman. I took your advice and removed the track bar and inspected the bushings. The bushings had some minor cracks so a new JKS adjustable track bar was purchased along with a Terafelx steering stabilizer and Rock Krawler heavy duty tie rod. I could not tell by inspecting the tie rod if it was damaged or not so figured it would not hurt to replace that as well.

After the track bar was removed I inspected the bolt holes and welds as you stated. The bolt holes were ovald out and the welds to the brackets were fine. I got washers to weld onto the bolt holes to correct the holes. 4 washers per bracket. Only problem is I could not find anyone to weld them on this past weekend. So hopefully this week that will get done.

I then went through and torque the tie rod and drag link to the correct ft-lb. I have not checked the toe or centered the wheel because I am waiting on the new parts. So when they arrive I will do all that.

I did not check the ball joints or the lower control arms yet either but I will try and take a look at these tonight possibly.

Also noticed in your earlier post that you recommend to just get a Dynatrac 44, gears, lockers and chromoly shafts and that would also solve your problems. Well that funny because I got all that sitting in my garage waiting for a guy in my local club to install the gears so we can slap that bad boy on.:drool:

Again thanks for all the help and I will keep you posted on my progress.

Make this thread a sticky.:thumbsup:
 
#21 ·
Planman,

Thanks for the great info. I loosened the track bar and control arms last night, rocked it as you said, let it sit an hour, rocked it again and retorqued! Man....it was a heck of a difference. Most of the shimmy I had is gone....almost unoticable now! Have to finish going through your list, and hopefully I'll get it right! :2thumbsup:


All this after nurmerous wheel balances, and the stealership telling me nothing was wrong!

Thanks Again! :thumbsup:
 
#22 ·
Planman,

Thanks for the great info. I loosened the track bar and control arms last night, rocked it as you said, let it sit an hour, rocked it again and retorqued! Man....it was a heck of a difference. Most of the shimmy I had is gone....almost unoticable now! Have to finish going through your list, and hopefully I'll get it right! :2thumbsup:

All this after nurmerous wheel balances, and the stealership telling me nothing was wrong!

Thanks Again! :thumbsup:
Glad to help, and good to hear.:thumbsup:
 
#25 ·
It is really good to hear that you have found the sources of the problems.

I would still check the ball joints, etc., in case the DW that appears to have started with the trackbar caused damage to other components.

Sometimes people find the source of the DW but do not check all the components, and what they find later is the DW damaged the other components as well.
 
#27 ·
So I fixed my DW but now i get a little shimmy/wobble when it hits 50mph then dissapears after that. I have a JKS track bar and after market SS thats torqued to spec, So should I be worried or maybe replace the LCA's?
 
#28 ·
On an 04 TJ with a 3" lift, it would help to have adjustable front lower control arms or the fixed front lowers that BDS sells to accompany their 3" lift.

Usually, a speed dependent, 50 mph shimmy/wobble that goes away is a tire/wheel balance issue.

I would first rotate your tires/wheels front to back to see if the shimmy/wobble moves to the back.

You could also try varying your tire psi between 28 and 32 to see if that makes any difference.

If the rotation makes no difference, then try adjustable front lower control arms to increase your caster alignment specs.
 
#30 ·
Planman. It’s been awhile since I posted. But everything has worked out great, except recently I have been experiencing a shimmy that I get around 50 mph but I believe that is an alignment issue and will be taking care of that this weekend. Just wanted to thank you again from your help and also got another question for you.

As you suggested washers were welded onto the track bar brackets to fix the ovaled out holes. The problem is that I used ¼” thick washers on each side and the stock bolt is not long enough to thread completely through the nut, so I don’t feel comfortable torque’n it to spec till I get a longer bolt. I have been to Home Depot, Lowes, True Value, Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Fastenal, another specialty bolt store(can’t recall name), and the dealership. None of these places has that size bolt with the length that is required. Fastenal said they could help and said that they had something that would work, so I went and ordered up the bolts and nuts. Installed them and they fit great but they were not threaded all the whole way. So, after I got the track bar torque’d down to spec, I grabbed it and I could move it slightly back and forth and up and down. I decided that was not a good thing so I removed the bolts and but back in the stock. Planman do you or anyone else know we’re I can get bolts that will work or is there something else that I can do to solve this problem.
 
#34 ·
NEW, UPDATED DIAGNOSIS CHECKLIST

Assuming your tire psi is 28-30, your tires/wheels have been balanced and rotated to make sure the wobble doesn't move with the rotation, here would be my order:

  1. Remove the steering stabilizer.
  2. Have someone turn the engine on and turn slowly from full lock to full lock while I visually, manually (with my hands on the components), and auditorily inspect for any play in the tie rod ends, drag link ends, sector shaft, trackbar ends/bolts/brackets, and trackbar welds.
  3. Then, do the same thing but with short, sharp, quick back and forth turns of the steering wheel instead of the slow, lock to lock approach.
  4. Then, I would remove the front trackbar to inspect the bolt holes for ovaling and inspect the trackbar bushings for separation or cracking with a long screw driver through the bolt sleeve and the trackbar in a vise to leverage against the bushing in all directions. If all is good, I would reinstall the trackbar with the tires on the ground at ride height to 125 lbs.
  5. Then, I would inspect the drag link end joints by using a large channel lock wrench that gave me enough leverage to check for up and down play in the drag link ends. There should not be any meaningful up and down play. If there is, the joints should be replaced or a new drag link with heavy duty joints should be installed. After, I would check the torque of the drag link ends. There should be no meaningful up and down, no side to side, and only rotational movement in the drag link ends.
  6. Then, I would inspect the tie rod ends with the channel lock wrench for up and down movement. There should be no meaningful up and down play. There should only be rotational movement in the joint end.
  7. Then, I would put the front axle on jack stands and check the front ball joints by using a long pry bar as a lever under the front tires to lift them up to inspect for up and down play in the lower ball joints. There shouldn't be more than maybe 1-2 mm.
  8. Then, I would use the prybar/lever against the frame and the top of the tire to inspect for lateral movement of the top ball joints. There shouldn't be any.
  9. Then, I would remove the front tires/wheels and remove the front tie rod--one knuckle at a time. Then with a large wrench or vice grips, I would inspect the end for side to side play. Then I would reinstall the end and torque to spec and repeat on the other side.
  10. Then, I would remove the brake calipers and brake disks to inspect the unitbearings for play.
  11. Then, I would reinstall the discs, brake calipers, and tires/wheels and set the axle back on the ground.
  12. Then, I would support but not lift the front axle with a floor jack and loosen the front lower control arm bolts. One at a time, I would drop the lower control arms to inspect the bolt holes and bushings (similar to with the trackbar), reinstall without torquing, and do the next one. Afterwards, remove the floor jack so the suspension is at ride height, vigorously rock the vehicle side to side and front and back, then torque to spec.
  13. Next, I would inspect the sector shaft that comes out of the steering box for cracking or twisting.
  14. Then, I would take a test drive without the steering stablizer to feel for any wobbles.
  15. Finally, I would reinstall the steering stablizer or spring $40 for a heavy duty steering stablizer.

If this front end inspection does not diagnose and/or solve it, then I would move to an alignment.

  1. I would use adjustable lower front control arms to set my caster spec between 4 and 5 degrees--with a cross caster that has less on the driver side than the passenger side. I would personally not do more or less, with a target around 4.5-4.7 degrees caster.
  2. If my camber is out of spec, but it is not due to failed ball joints, I would install offset ball joints to get my camber in spec.
  3. I would set my toe-in to spec on the machine--which is about a 1/8" toe-in.
  4. If my front to rear alignment is off, I would install rear lower adjustable control arms to fix this.

With all this, I highly doubt you do not find the source.

The last ditch thing if there is a non-DW, speed dependent range wobble, I would borrow a different set of wheels and tires to see if it changes, and I would try driving it with no front driveshaft to see if that changes anything.

Although it is always a good idea to inspect your axle shaft u-joints, they will not cause DW.
 
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