post #241 of Old 05-22-2013, 02:41 AM
lima_been
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Thanks guys just a reminder that my sway bar links are not too short. My stock rears are in the front. Also loosened my control arms and happy with the outcome doesn't seem as jittery. Only minor issue I have left now is when I hit bumps eg like rail road tracks and bounces the front end a bit, I can feel the front end wobbling a bit. Didn't throw me around. I just feel it wobble for half a second before going back to normal. Ta

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post #242 of Old 05-22-2013, 09:05 AM
DBA2GO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lima_been View Post
... Only minor issue I have left now is when I hit bumps eg like rail road tracks and bounces the front end a bit, I can feel the front end wobbling a bit. Didn't throw me around. I just feel it wobble for half a second before going back to normal. Ta
That is probably your steering stabilizer fixing another problem. I'm no mechanic; but, letting your SS solve problems is not a good idea. Realistically you should be able to drive (even over bumps), without any wobble, without having the SS on your Jeep. I'd recommend continuing to look for the problem.

One foot in the grave & one foot on the gas pedal!!
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post #243 of Old 05-29-2013, 07:57 AM
dualtjs
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Planman,

Are you getting royalties from Northridge4X4? They linked your youtube video, in their product page for the bolt upgrade kit that they sell:

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/nr...k-hardware-kit
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post #244 of Old 05-30-2013, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
planman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dualtjs
Planman,

Are you getting royalties from Northridge4X4? They linked your youtube video, in their product page for the bolt upgrade kit that they sell:

http://www.northridge4x4.com/shop/nr...k-hardware-kit
No. No royalties or compensation.

Although, I initially brought the issue to their attention and sent them a link to my video. They subsequently put together the kit.

They did send me 2 kits to test out. I believe they include a kit at no charge for people who buy a full suspension lift from them.
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post #245 of Old 05-30-2013, 06:39 PM
dualtjs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post

No. No royalties or compensation.

Although, I initially brought the issue to their attention and sent them a link to my video. They subsequently put together the kit.

They did send me 2 kits to test out. I believe they include a kit at no charge for people who buy a full suspension lift from them.
That's too bad. I'm thinking that a $500 credit for purchases might be more appropriate.
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post #246 of Old 06-01-2013, 09:55 AM
wilywillie
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Just to add to the list of RELATED issues...
I replaced both my front hub assemblies this week, (sealed outer bearing blew on driver's side) and suddenly, my front end is tight again!

I'm just here for the gasoline. --Max


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post #247 of Old 07-09-2013, 06:15 PM
alsnyder93
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Death Wobble

I have a 2000 grand cherokee and just recently put a 4" suspension lift on it. I get the death wobble every time I drive it and it's pretty bad. I put 4 new tie rods on it, along with a new pit man arm because the one that came with the lift threw off my angles really bad. I put a steering stabilizer on it and a dual stabilizer. When we put the dual stabilizer on it and took it out for a drive I still got the death wobble and it actually rotated the one stabilizer. I replaced the upper control arms and I am still getting the wobble. Everything looks like its tight, what else do I need to be looking at to fix this.
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post #248 of Old 07-09-2013, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
planman
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Originally Posted by alsnyder93 View Post
I have a 2000 grand cherokee and just recently put a 4" suspension lift on it. I get the death wobble every time I drive it and it's pretty bad. I put 4 new tie rods on it, along with a new pit man arm because the one that came with the lift threw off my angles really bad. I put a steering stabilizer on it and a dual stabilizer. When we put the dual stabilizer on it and took it out for a drive I still got the death wobble and it actually rotated the one stabilizer. I replaced the upper control arms and I am still getting the wobble. Everything looks like its tight, what else do I need to be looking at to fix this.
Watch the 2 YouTube videos in post #1, on page #1 of this thread.
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post #249 of Old 08-16-2013, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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post #250 of Old 09-19-2013, 09:35 PM
grand poobah
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Help diagnosing root cause

Looking for a bit of clarification on what the root causes of DW are, versus what would be contributing factors leading to more often occurrences.

If I read the orig post correctly the are basically two possible root causes; either the TB or the control arms. Everything else like worn/damaged ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link etc just add to the liklihood DW will occur. Does this sound right?

I'm trying to solve DW on a stock '07 JKU. We've had the JK for about a year, and I suspect that the underlying cause has been present but being hidden by the SS until recently, when DW reared it's ugly head and scared the hell out of da wife. I have now also experienced it...and it's def full blown DW.

I've been through the checklist items I could do at home, and been to two independent mechanics who 'claimed' to have knowledge of DW. I didn't give the checklist to either mechanic, just so I could gauge what they knew by what they looked at.

At this point, here is what I can say with certainty is wrong. Ball joints, drag link, tie rod ends all toast. SS is shot as well. Given what it has been through and having 90k on the clock, no surprise there. I don't want to go ahead and replace these unless I know what the true cause is. Otherwise they just get damaged again down the road.

This is where it gets more confusing. My manual inspection of TB didn't indicate anything wrong. Truth be told I'm not sure if I missed anything due to lack of exp. I didn't feel anything odd, and the welds looked ok. I tried to take the bolts out, but I couldn't break em loose at home which is why I went the mechanic route. Both mechs claim TB is OK. One took the bolts out and said no ovaling. The other just did a manual check while still bolted up. One mech did check the majority of the checklist items and confirmed the items I listed above are bad. He didn't look at the control arms, and when I asked about them he tried to tell me that it doesn't have them. The other mech pretty much just checked then TB and then said I should replace shocks, SS and go back to stock size tires. He did find play in the ball joints, but said nothing to be concerned about. No exactly confidence inspiring...

At this point I'm thinking, OK, I'll have the obviously bad items replaced and at the same time put on a Teraflex HD TB with the larger bolts along with new control arm bushings, get everything toqued to spec, and hope that covers all the possible weak spots.

Thoughts? Opinions?
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post #251 of Old 09-19-2013, 09:45 PM
asajay
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I feel for you. I'm still chasing it after two years. The last time I took it in to a mechanic they said to just replace the tires. I knew that couldn't be it but we did it anyway. I also found a control arm bushing was bad so I replaced it. DW was gone for nearly a year. Now I can feel it creeping back.

I did the inspections according to the video and found the rod-end that connects to the steering gearbox arm was shot. I replaced it. Still getting a wibble, not quite a wobble yet but I know it's there. I also found at least the upper ball joint on the drivers side has a very small amount of play.

My plan, with enough money saved up, is to replace all the remaining control arm bushings, replace the shocks and put a larger bolt into the Torque bar connection. Oh, and take it in to have that ball joint replaced (probably the only thing I can't rally do at home).

I also need to find a shop in my area that -knows- what Death Wobble is.
This is on a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee, that the wife drives. She lets me know if it DWs, and it hasn't for a while, but I can feel it creeping up.

Asa Jay

1982 Grand Wagoneer (AMC 327 w/TH400)
1995 Grand Cherokee (Stock)
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post #252 of Old 09-19-2013, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
planman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grand poobah
Looking for a bit of clarification on what the root causes of DW are, versus what would be contributing factors leading to more often occurrences.

If I read the orig post correctly the are basically two possible root causes; either the TB or the control arms. Everything else like worn/damaged ball joints, tie rod ends, drag link etc just add to the liklihood DW will occur. Does this sound right?

I'm trying to solve DW on a stock '07 JKU. We've had the JK for about a year, and I suspect that the underlying cause has been present but being hidden by the SS until recently, when DW reared it's ugly head and scared the hell out of da wife. I have now also experienced it...and it's def full blown DW.

I've been through the checklist items I could do at home, and been to two independent mechanics who 'claimed' to have knowledge of DW. I didn't give the checklist to either mechanic, just so I could gauge what they knew by what they looked at.

At this point, here is what I can say with certainty is wrong. Ball joints, drag link, tie rod ends all toast. SS is shot as well. Given what it has been through and having 90k on the clock, no surprise there. I don't want to go ahead and replace these unless I know what the true cause is. Otherwise they just get damaged again down the road.

This is where it gets more confusing. My manual inspection of TB didn't indicate anything wrong. Truth be told I'm not sure if I missed anything due to lack of exp. I didn't feel anything odd, and the welds looked ok. I tried to take the bolts out, but I couldn't break em loose at home which is why I went the mechanic route. Both mechs claim TB is OK. One took the bolts out and said no ovaling. The other just did a manual check while still bolted up. One mech did check the majority of the checklist items and confirmed the items I listed above are bad. He didn't look at the control arms, and when I asked about them he tried to tell me that it doesn't have them. The other mech pretty much just checked then TB and then said I should replace shocks, SS and go back to stock size tires. He did find play in the ball joints, but said nothing to be concerned about. No exactly confidence inspiring...

At this point I'm thinking, OK, I'll have the obviously bad items replaced and at the same time put on a Teraflex HD TB with the larger bolts along with new control arm bushings, get everything toqued to spec, and hope that covers all the possible weak spots.

Thoughts? Opinions?
Yes. Fix everything that is bad at once and upgrade the trackbar and bolts.

Do not drive your rig till it is fixed. It will only cause more damage.

If you replace things piecemeal, the new parts will fail prematurely due to the looseness and wobbles caused by the other parts.
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post #253 of Old 09-19-2013, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asajay
I feel for you. I'm still chasing it after two years. The last time I took it in to a mechanic they said to just replace the tires. I knew that couldn't be it but we did it anyway. I also found a control arm bushing was bad so I replaced it. DW was gone for nearly a year. Now I can feel it creeping back.

I did the inspections according to the video and found the rod-end that connects to the steering gearbox arm was shot. I replaced it. Still getting a wibble, not quite a wobble yet but I know it's there. I also found at least the upper ball joint on the drivers side has a very small amount of play.

My plan, with enough money saved up, is to replace all the remaining control arm bushings, replace the shocks and put a larger bolt into the Torque bar connection. Oh, and take it in to have that ball joint replaced (probably the only thing I can't rally do at home).

I also need to find a shop in my area that -knows- what Death Wobble is.
This is on a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee, that the wife drives. She lets me know if it DWs, and it hasn't for a while, but I can feel it creeping up.

Asa Jay
When it has gone that long and has been that bad, you need to go beyond the steps that I show in the videos.

You need to do the more comprehensive steps that I include in the written inspection checklist--with the appropriate torque specs for your rig--and you actually have to remove suspension components for more thorough inspection purposes.
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post #254 of Old 09-20-2013, 07:34 AM
duneslider
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At 90k the tie-rods, drag link ends, and ball joints are probably all bad. The TB may or may not be bad but it certainly could be bad.

Now would be a good time to replace all those parts. Synergy makes good stuff and all their joints are easily/cheaply replaceable later on when they are worn. I think their new rod ends are like 15-20 bucks (if/when they go bad).

You really are to the point where it wouldn't me uncommon to see all these parts worn out on a jeep with heavy tires that sees some dirt roads.
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post #255 of Old 09-20-2013, 07:47 AM
asajay
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Quote:
Originally Posted by planman View Post
When it has gone that long and has been that bad, you need to go beyond the steps that I show in the videos.

You need to do the more comprehensive steps that I include in the written inspection checklist--with the appropriate torque specs for your rig--and you actually have to remove suspension components for more thorough inspection purposes.
That was my next plan in an upcoming weekend when I have time. Honestly my fear is that the sector shaft in the steering gearbox has gone bad. I'm just not ready to spend all the bucks it will take to replace -everything-. Like I mentioned, since the tire change and control-arm bushing change, it hasn't done it. But I can feel it being a little loose even if it's not doing the DW. We don't off-road it, but in it's prior life it was. It also reached 200,000 miles recently so I'm not against replacing a butt-load of parts, I just need the money.

Asa Jay

1982 Grand Wagoneer (AMC 327 w/TH400)
1995 Grand Cherokee (Stock)
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