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XHD Heavy-Duty Hood Latches for JK and TJ available at OcoRough Country Lift Kits and Parts!Clayton Off Road WJ Long Arm Kits!

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Unread 08-28-2012, 02:04 AM   #1
LVCapo
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The Definitive Lift Kit Thread

Suspension Basics
The job of a car suspension is to maximize the friction between the tires and the road surface, to provide steering stability with good handling and to ensure the comfort of the passengers.
-How It Works

However, Jeeps aren't ordinary vehicles...we like to play in the mud, dirt, sand, snow, and rocks...or ideally a combination of some/all of these. As such, we demand and need specialized suspension, or lift kits to take full advantage of our vehicles' abilities
Jeep Suspension In Action

Terms To Know
Axle- The axle assemblies bear the weight of the vehicle, as well as house the differentials (gears and sometimes lockers) and axle shafts, and through the shafts connect to the four wheels of the Jeep. The two types of axles you need to be familiar with are the Dana 30 (The front axle of the Sport, Sport S, and Sahara) and the Dana 44 (The rear axle used in all JKs).

Axle Articulation- The ability of one axle to move relative to the chassis. It is the measure of the ease with which tires stay in contact with the ground (and retain traction) on very uneven terrain.

Breakover Angle- The degree of slope that defines the largest ramp or hill that a vehicle can travel over without scraping against the frame or underbody components.

Bump Steer- As the vehicle moves over uneven terrain, the reaction from the vehicle's suspension to the terrain may alter the vehicle's line of travel.

Bump Stop- Also referred to as Jounce stops, are used to limit up travel of the axle and prevent contact between the tire and wheel well, which can damage either or both.

Coil Spring- Vehicle coil springs are compression type springs. These are meant to buffer or absorb the shock or traveling over uneven surfaces. Three types of coil springs you should be familiar with are Linear, Progressive, and Dual Rate coils. A linear type spring reacts to all compression evenly, meaning it will react the same to a large change in surface the same as a small change in surface. If you look at a Linear Coil Spring, the coils are even over the compression range.
Progressive coils react differently depending on the amount of compression to maintain a more even response regardless of the change in surface. If you look at Progressive Coil Springs, you will notice the top coils of the compression range are closer together, offering a softer ride at the top of the compression range (think "on road"), as opposed to stiffer off road compression.
Dual Rate coils are a variation of Progressive Coils with a more distinct difference between the top coils (softer) and bottom coils (firmer). Offering a even more balanced ride on road and off then standard Progressive Coils.


Control Arm- Jeeps have two control arms per tire, an upper and lower control arm. These control the vertical travel of each wheel.

Death Wobble- A vibration resulting from a loose or worn part in the steering or suspension, such as a tie rod end, worn trackbar bushing, or mistorqued suspension bolts, and usually set off by hitting an uneven surface at a certain speed. It goes away after the vehicle is stopped. If not addressed, over time the vibration can cause damage to other components of the vehicle and exacerbate the issue.

Departure Angle- When returning to level ground from a descent, this angle indicates the degree of a slope from which a vehicle can depart without scraping or hitting the rear undercarriage.

Dive- All Jeeps have a slight rake from the factory (The front is even or slightly lower than the rear). Dive is typically associated with braking, where the front end pitches forward and down. This can be corrected with a lift, or even small coil spacers.

Droop- Is simply the amount of down travel your suspension has. Its controlled by the control arm, shock travel, and by the sway bar link (if connected).

Ground Clearance- The lowest point between the axles and the ground.

Gusset- When put under pressure by larger tires or heavy offroading, the front axles C's are prone to bending. Gussets are thick pieces of steel used to reinforce the front axles C's (the joint that connects your front axle to your front tires).

Jounce/Rebound
- The motion of a wheel that compresses its suspension. If a wheel is at full jounce, it is at the upper limits of its travel. The opposite of jounce is rebound — or wheel movement that decompresses a vehicle's suspension.

Limiting Strap- Limiting straps are typically used when the shocks are longer than the coil springs to prevent the springs from coming loose from the spring pads and coming unseated, or when there are no bump stops (or inadequate) bump stops, to prevent tire/wheel well damage from contact between the two.

Roll Center- Roll-center is the imaginary point around which the body leans in a turn and also around which it moves when the suspension flexes on a trail. There is one roll-center each for the front and rear suspensions. The location of each roll-center for most solid-axle suspensions is defined by the geometry of the track-bars (aka panhard bars). On late-model solid-axle Jeeps, the front track-bar runs in front of the axle from the frame on the driver’s side to the axle on the passenger’s side. The rear bar is behind the axle and the attachments are reversed. The actual roll-center is found by drawing an imaginary vertical line down the middle of the vehicle and another straight line between the bolts at the ends of the track bar (ignore the bends in the bar). The intersection of these two lines is the roll-center.

Shock- A device used to dampen or reduce the amount of spring bounce after a bump.

Skid Plate- Helps protect the undercarriage from damage when driving off-road.

Sleeve- The front axle is prone to damage in more than one area. An axle sleeve is welded or beaten into the shaft to prevent the front axle tube from bending.

Suspension Travel- From full jounce to full rebound, this is the amount of vertical wheel movement allowed by the suspension.

Sway Bar- Jeeps are equipped with two sway bars, one front and one rear. The sway bar on a Jeep controls the vehicles body roll. Without it, the top heavy Jeeps momentum going into turns would cause the upper portion to lean (or roll). The sway bars dampen this effect, keeping the vehicle balanced above the four tires.

Sway Bar Link- Also called "End Links" These connect the sway bars to the axle (one on each side, front and rear). Stock Jeep sway bar links are fixed with rubber bushings. Many aftermarket lifts include elongated or adjustable end links. These can also be disconnected offroad for a smoother ride and more axle articulation. However, make sure the end links are reattached before driving onroad in traffic.

Truss- A truss is another method of reinforcing the front axle of a Jeep. trusses are attached externally by welding steel or aluminum along the top of the axle housing between the differential and C's

Basic Jeep Wrangler JK Suspension Components


1. Coil Spring Isolators
2. Jounce Stops
3. Shock Absorber
4. Upper Control Arms
5. Lower Control Arms
6. Control Arm Bushing
7. Track Bars
8. Sway Bars
9. Sway Bar Links (End Links)
10. Sway Bar Bushings

Types of Suspension


A Teraflex Budget Boost Kit

Budget Boost ($40 to
$200) - This is the most basic, or entry level lift. Typically a Budget Boost includes coil spring spacers (Rubber pucks), or coil spacers and shock extensions, and will give your Jeep 1"-2" of lift. Aside from price, budget Boosts are popular because they don't require many modifications to the suspension (driveshafts, alignment, etc). Used mostly for clearance of larger tires(typically up to 35") or very light offroading (think dirt roads).


An Old Man Emu (OME) Coil Lift Kit

Coil Lift ($299 to $799)- A Coil Lift typically includes stiffer, or longer coil springs which offer you 1.5" to 3" of lift. Depending on the manufacturer, these kits may also include things such as shocks, brake line extensions, bump stops, track bars and track bar brackets, and sway bar links. Where a Budget Boost is basically used to allow greater tire clearance, a Coil Lift is where you truly start seeing the benefits of lifting a jeep, gaining articulation and improved tire contact with driving surfaces.


A Rock Krawler Short Arm Kit

Short Arm ($1200 to
$2500)- A Short Arm kit most often includes everything found in a coil lift, with the addition of adjustable or elongated control arms. Because of this these kits typically run from 2" to 4" or more. The Short Arm lift kit offers even more articulation than the Coil Lift, without getting into major fabrication or suspension modifications.


A Rock Krawler Long Arm Kit

Long Arm ($2200 to
$4500)- The Long Arm lift for a Jeep is not for the feint of heart, requiring fabrication and welding, yet offering up 4" of lift or more. The Long Arm kits use longer control arms, and utilizing aftermarket brackets that require you cutting off the stock brackets and welding new, heavy duty brackets to the frame. The advantages of a Long Arm kit is pretty simple....insane crawling ability.

Manufacturer Links:
AEV
Currie
Fabtech
Metal Cloak
Old Man Emu
Pro Comp
Rancho
Rock Krawler
Rough Country
Rubicon Express
Skyjacker
Superlift
Teraflex

FAQ
Q: What kit should I get?
A: No one can answer this question for you....what you have to do is balance your budget with your needs. If you need nothing more than to clear a slightly larger tire, then you should price a budget boost.....but if you plan on running the Rubicon Trail, yet only have $500 to spend, look at a kit that covers the basics and allows you to add as you go.

Q: What company makes the best lifts?
A: Again, this is dependent on you and your needs. There are several different companies that make good lifts....one may make a lift that handles on road fantastic while handling mild to moderate trails.....another company may make a lift that is soft onroad, but one that handles medium to hard trails perfectly.

Q: How do I choose the right shocks for my lift?
A: The simplest answer is to contact the manufacturer of the lift you are considering and ask them what shock they recommend for your particular lift. If you have a specific brand of shock in mind, ask them for a model number that will work with your lift.

Q: Why are my coil springs sagging?
A: A Jeeps coil springs can sag because they aren't strong enough to hold the weight they are supporting (adding a aftermarket bumper and winch can add up to 200lbs to the front of a Jeep), or because of age (as time passes the springs are compressed an uncompressed repeatedly, over the years they lose their spring). Sag can be countered by installing stiffer springs, and in the case where sag is caused by added weight, you can use coil spring spacers.

Q: What issues can a lift kit cause?
A: It all depends on what you do to your Jeep. After a typical install you'll want to make sure everything is torqued to spec. Some people recommend an alignment. If you lift a JK 3" or more you'll need to start worrying about drive shafts. With a 2DR model the shafts are at a steep angle. On the 2012 models (especially the automatic) aside from the angles, the front shaft can come in contact with the exhaust crossover during droop, and the rear can come into contact with either the evap canister skid or gas tank skid (there are simple workarounds for both). These are just issues to keep in mind....some people never have issues with the drive shafts, others have to replace theirs soon after lifting their Jeeps.

Q: I installed a lift kit and now my Jeep shakes badly when driving.
A: You are probably suffering from the notorious "Death Wobble". Death Wobble is a vibration resulting from a loose or worn part in the steering or suspension systems, such as a tie rod end, worn trackbar bushing, or mistorqued suspension bolts, and usually set off by hitting an uneven surface at a certain speed. It goes away after the vehicle is stopped. If not addressed, over time the vibration can cause damage to other components of the vehicle and exacerbate the issue.

Q: I installed my lift and now my ESP light is coming on?
A: Your steering wheel is slightly off center, and your Jeep thinks its in a skid....this is an easy 10 minute fix. You'll need a 15mm socket or wrench, and hopefully a friend to watch the effect on the steering wheel as you spin the turnbuckle. Crawl under the front of your jeep and find the two nuts securing the turnbuckle, loosen the nuts and spin the turnbuckle clockwise or counterclockwise until the steering wheel is straight. Tighten turnbuckle nuts, drive the Jeep for a few miles to confirm the issue is fixed. It may take a few tries.

Q: I lifted my Jeep, is my stock jack now worthless?
A: Not unless you are running larger than 35" tires. Even though you lifted your Jeep, the ground clearance at the axles and differentials (jack points) are still the same. Other issues such as where you are will play a part (mud, loose dirt, snow, sand). A good jack base is always something to consider when going off road.

Q: Do I have to replace my shocks when I install a lift?
A: It depends. The stock JK shocks will handle up to a 2" lift. As your shocks are the limiting factor in your lifts down travel, you need to replace them with aftermarket options or shock extensions once you exceed 2", or risk damaging your vehicle.

Q: Will a lift kit void my warranty?
A: This is a hotly debated topic. You'll hear people say their dealership voided their warranty after a lift. You'll hear some people who were told by their dealer that the lift is warrantied if it is dealer installed. The real answer is a bit more tricky.
The Magnussen-Moss Warranty Act states "Legally, a vehicle manufacturer cannot void the warranty on a vehicle due to an aftermarket part unless they can prove that the aftermarket part caused or contributed to the failure in the vehicle ".

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Unread 08-28-2012, 12:16 PM   #2
LVCapo
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I'd like to get some user lift kit reviews. Please cut and paste the following template. The caveat it you must have had the kit installed for at least one month and used it on and off road. Dont post a review a week after you bought the lift....because even if you hate it you are gonna lie to yourself after spending the money.
Be honest, be fair, and be detailed!

Lift Kit:
(What kit, model #?)

Price: (How much, and from where?)

Install Time: (from start to finish, or professionally done?)

Install Notes: (Were there any issues or special needs for install?)

Likes: (particulars about the kit you liked?)

Dislikes: (Particulars/Issues about the. Kit you disliked?)

Recommendation: (Would you recommend this kit? To who?)

(Picture of jeeps stance with kit)
(Picture Wheeling it)

** Again, please do not post questions or comments....Lets keep this thread clean!***
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Unread 08-29-2012, 11:30 AM   #3
LVCapo
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Lift Kit: Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod

Price: $475 (Ordered locally from 4 Wheel Parts W/discount) $285 for shocks (Bilstein 5100)

Install Time: 4 Hours with two people

Install Notes: Rear track bar bracket needs to be welded in.

Likes: The RK Stock Mod 2.5" is attractive for a couple reasons. First its relatively inexpensive ($475), yet includes all the essentials to get you started. The front springs are progressive type, which really softens up the road for daily driving. Another key selling point is the lifetime warranty. The kit handles well on the road, and exceptionally well off it. The lack of packaged shocks seems like it would fall under "Dislikes", but it allows you to choose shocks based on ride preference and how you intend to finish your build. RK recommends Bilsteins, which are a very stiff shock. I'd personally go with the Rancho RS9000 XL (#29 in Front, #30 in rear).

Dislikes: There are a few issues to consider. First the 2.5" kit measures more like 3.5" installed. I didnt have any drive line issues, and over time the springs have settle closer to 3"....but its something to keep in mind. The kit does not include bump stops (RK recommends buying them after you install the lift), or extended brake lines/brake brackets (just remove the stock brackets and zip tie the brake lines to the shock body).

Recommendation: Overall the RK Stock Mod is a good kit, offering a quality kit backed by a lifetime warranty. While the kit doesnt include shocks, this may be a positive if you do your homework, allowing you to bundle exactly what you want from your shocks (Fox, Bilstein, Rancho) to get the exact ride you want. The on road handling is good, a little stiff, but very precise. The offroad ride is exceptional. The RK Stock Mod really shines with the sway bar disconnected, handling rocks and rough terrian like a champ.
I'd recommend the RK Stock Mod 2.5" for someone looking for a good base to build around. By keeping it simple with the coils, trackbar, and rear track bar bracket you have the necessities, and the flexibility to add your own flavor of shocks and wheel comfortably as your budget allows you to add control arms and more advanced pieces.
photo173.jpg   dsc00031.jpg  
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Unread 08-29-2012, 01:59 PM   #4
aristobrat
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 870
Lift Kit: AEV 3.5" Premium (now known as SC)

Price: $1599.99, from Quadratec, because they ship quickly to VA. Turns out the lift ended up being drop-shipped from AEV in Michigan, which wasn't as quick as if Quadratec had shipped it themselves.

Install Time: 16 hours (full day Sat + Sun), doing it by myself in the driveway, with minimal wrenching skills at that point (learning as I went).

Install Notes: Reaming out the knuckle for the drag link flip was nerve racking for me. A 16MM ratcheting wrench makes removing the top of the stock shocks easier (at least on pre-2012s). Removing the driver upper control arm bolt may be difficult, because the exhaust may be in the way and stop you from pulling the bolt straight out. May be easier to cut the stock bolt with an angle grinder and replace with a store-bought bolt, but replace it the opposite way so it's easier for you to get off again, if you need to. It's not required to unbolt the parking break from the rear axles for the 3.5" lift installation.

Likes: I like how this lift raises the front/rear track bars mounts up 3", which causes the JK to lean less when cornering than it did stock. I like that the track bar brackets are beefy as heck, and on the axle end, not the frame end. I like that this lift didn't require me to buy additional required parts, like shocks, bump stops, etc. I like that all four springs are progressive instead of linear, so there's virtually no sag anywhere when I carry a lot of weight (like packing for a long camping trip). I like that there was nothing to "tweak" or "dial in" with this lift, it drove great the first time after doing the lift. I like how this lift has handled everything off-road I've pointed it at over the last three years, including harder trails at Uwharrie National Forest and Rausch Creek.

Dislikes: I didn't like how they handled extending the brake lines, which is to bend the metal lines to provide more length (at least on the 2010s). Functionally, I've had no issues with it, but I would have preferred longer replacement ones.

Recommendation: I'd recommend this kit (as is) to anyone who wants their lifted JK to handle on-road as good (or better) than it did stock, and does all but frequent hard-core (extreme) wheeling in rocks. In the latter case, I'd recommend this kit, plus considering replacing the stock LCAs with heavier-dutier ones. The only time I wouldn't recommend this lift kit is when someone wants to do their lift in phases, or wants a lift with a lot of adjustable pieces so they can tweak/dial in different settings to make their JK handle differently. I'd definitely buy this lift again!



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Unread 08-30-2012, 02:03 PM   #5
SubAtomicGenius
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2011 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 3,005
Lift Kit: Teraflex 3" JK Suspension w/Full 8 FlexArm System and Shocks (4 door, 1451300) with "Monster" Front Adjustable Forged Trackbar (1753418)

Price: $2,200 + $240 = $2,440, National 4x4 Center, National4x4.ca

Install Time: 3 days at 4-6 hours per day, self-installed.

Install Notes: I took my time and did some greasing/rockguard, etc. while installing the lift. Ideally, besides standard tools, you'll need two floor jacks and a set of jackstands to install this kit. I also used 1" ratchet straps to move the parts into alignment for bolting up - those were really handy. I used Teraflex's recommended lengths in the install instructions for all 8 adjustable control arms. Springs were kinda a PITA to install, I'd HIGHLY recommend a spring compressor for ease, however you can do it without them. Used a brake bleeder kit to bleed the brakes. Followed alignment instructions on various Jeep forums to complete the front-end alignment with no problems. While you're at it, I'd highly recommend getting a Grade-8 replacement bolt set, or just buy your own - for your control arms and trackbars (I replaced mine about 6 months after the lift). You'll also need a 1/2" torque wrench. Used copious amounts of anti-seize, grease.

Likes: Really beefy control arms and front trackbar. Rides like a champ. Excellent on road and awesome offroad.

Dislikes: Would prefer rear extended brake lines rather than relocation brackets. Had to get new Grade-8 bolts for the front adjustable trackbar as the fine-thread ones stripped out while tightening them to recommended specs (don't know if it was the Grade-5 hardware or the anti-seize that did it??). Small bits of rust showing on some parts when received that needed some immediate attention (rust in my neck-of-the-woods soon becomes a lot of rust). Rear emergency brake lines use a drop-down bracket to compensate for axle assembly drop, but lines are rather tight. Had to mickey around to adjust them to my satisifaction. Front swaybar disconnects will do, but they are rather simple/slight, so I'll be changing these out with something else.

Recommendation: Bought this kit to match up with my 35" General Grabber tires. While the kit was rated for 3", I achieved slightly over 4" with the lift kit alone. I would highly recommend this kit. Upside: adjust control arms, swap shocks, coils, add driveshafts and rear brake lines and you've got a 4" lift!

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/c...thread-1339466

Pics include fresh install and recent offroad trips:
img_0439.jpg   img_1034.jpg   jku-20new-20meats-204.jpg  
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Unread 08-30-2012, 09:59 PM   #6
DrHolliday
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Gresham, OREGON
Posts: 679
Lift Kit: Rock Krawler 3.5" X-factor Mid-arm and 1.25" daystar body lift

Price: $1800 w/ Bilstein 5100 shocks.

Install Time: This was the first lift I ever installed and it took 11 hours with a couple trips to the parts store. The body lift took less than an hour a couple months later.

Install Notes: The rear track bar bracket requires welding before any serious wheeling. You will need to do a front end alignment (the recommended arm lengths are a starting point). And the track bars need to be rotated away from the axle to prevent it from hitting anything.

Likes: -This kit has some seriously amazing flex, even on 40's.
-I've been running it without a rear sway bar for a couple weeks now and it is still very stable at all speeds.
-The kit is very heavy duty, you will not break it.
-Progressive rate springs hold weight well without sagging.
-Lift came out larger than expected on my 2 door, more like a 5-6" lift.
-I used to not like the fact that it didn't come with bump stops, but after changing my set up a couple times now I can understand it... a guy running 35's will need a lot less bump stop then a guy on 40's. This allows you to truly set it up to your fit your rig, not a cookie cutter, one size fits all, lift kit.

Dislikes:-I don't like the bilstien shocks. I'd like to get a firmer shock. (this came after riding in a rig on the fox 2.0 shocks)
-The lift came out big. I wound up replacing both driveshafts within a few months.
-The lift should address the front shocks. At full droop the shocks hit the frame severely enough that it could wind up bending your shocks.

Recommendation: I would recommend this lift kit to anyone who is going to seriously use their rig. It has handled everything I have thrown at it from rocks to mud to just city and highway driving.









__________________
2011 JK Rubicon 2 door 6-speed manual, 3.5" Rock Krawler Suspension lift, 1.25" Daystar body lift, 40x13.50R17 Nitto Mud Grapplers


My build thread
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Unread 09-02-2012, 01:16 PM   #7
HappyTrails
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2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: West Georgia
Posts: 1,841
Lift Kit: Rock Krawler 2.5" Max Travel

Price: $1299 + $460 for Fox 2.0 shocks. Purchased through Jason at www.KrawlOff-Road.com

Install Time: About 10 hours with a friend who had done lift kits before. Maybe 6 hours if we hadn't stopped for pizza/beer breaks.

Install Notes: Ratchet straps help move the axles fore/aft when installing the new lower control arms.
Needed to trim the rear pinch seam/rock rails about 3" to clear 37's.
The rear track bar bracket bolts on, but should be welded on before taking it off-road.

Likes: Netted way more than 2.5" on my 2-door. Serious flex. Enough where I need to get some spring retainer clips ASAP.
The parts are very sturdy/strong/heavy. The wife noticed it before I did, when she said, "it feels much more stable than stock".
Front and rear extended brake lines included with kit.
The lifetime Abuse Proof Warranty is unmatched by any other lift kit manufacturer. You break it, they replace it!

Dislikes:- The Rock Krawler instructions include every lift kit they make. You have to go through the instructions and highlight the parts
that apply to your particular lift kit. The rear trackbar relocation bracket is a very close fit to the left rear shock.
Have had minor rubbing.

Recommendation: This may be "only" a 2.5" lift, but it provides about 4-5" lift and is seriously built for off-road.
On-road manners are even better than stock. Sorry, couldn't find any off-road pics.
Probably because I seem to be the club photographer and can't take a pic of myself in action. LOL!
The bottom pic shows it flexing on a buddy's 39.5" tire, with the other 3 tires squarely on the ground.



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2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto,
RK 2.5" Max Travel lift, Fox 2.0 shocks, 37" Nittos, 5.38's, River Raider skids, Warn VR8000-S.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger.
Re-inventing the circle and straight line.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 11:52 AM   #8
Spike6901
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 273
Lift Kit: Skyjacker JK2501K-SVX-H Short Arm

Price: $1,200 - Local Shop

Install Time: Professionally Done

Install Notes: Professionally Done to maintain dealership warranty

Likes:
- Perfect height for my needs (2.5" after settling), no driveline issues or problems with 2012 exhaust loop clearance.
- Has sway bar disconnects and a beefy track bar brace.
- Flex is good at slow speeds
- Drives great at highway speeds

Dislikes:
- Track bar brace does not relocate rear axle and I really do not know why Skyjacker did not build this into the design.
- There are two grease fittings on the front control arms that are impossible to get to when installed.
- The ride is a little rough in the front. I blame the shocks as they take a BIG hit really nice but are choppy on the small ones.
- No bump stop extensions so 35's would rub without fender flare work at full flex.

Recommendation: Maybe. I would not have gone with this kit as my first choice but got a good deal through the dealership and they guaranteed to maintain the factory warranty. I have done light wheeling with the kit and have had no issues but again, it rides a little too stiff. The kit will flex all the way to smashing the factory bump stops so stuffing 35's isn't going to happen with the factory flares. I run 33's and it is perfect.



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Past: CJ-7 Full Resto, XJ Lifted and Locked, KJ Lifted and Cute, JKU Lifted, armor and a lot more...
2014: Wrangler#1 Father and oldest Son build and teach project
2016: Wrangler#2 Father and youngest Son build and teach project
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Unread 09-10-2012, 09:39 AM   #9
paul84043
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2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,601
Lift Kit: RK 2.5" Max Travel

Price: $1200.00 Through Quadratec (No Shocks or Bump Stops)

Install Time: With Super Badass Brother in Law, about 6 hours. By myself, probably all day.

Install Notes:
All in all, I give it an Easy to Medium install rating. The process is simple and an extra pair of eyes comes in very handy. There is some drilling on the trackbar bracket and the angle was weird and inconvenient, and for the base install no welding, though you will probably want to weld the trackbar bracket at some point when you have decided that everythig is good to go.
A mechanically inclined friend is going to save you a lot of time and aggrivation. Someone that knows what a wrench is and what the sizes mean... Leave the hot yet still mechanically inclined female friend out of this one, she's only a distraction and will most likely just get you killed.
Two floor jacks are nice, one large one for the pumpkin, and a smaller one came in very handy to manipulate the axles to get things to line up.
A good set of large jack stands is an absolute must. So are tire blocks for the axle not currently being worked on.
I set my arms to the length's called out in the installation instructions and after the kit was installed and the Jeep taken to a shop for verification, no alignment adjustments were necessary.
More important than setting the lenghts to the documentation, is to set the left and right sides EXACTLY THE SAME. I put long bolts through mine and laid them side by side to verify that they were both adjusted the same length.
A workbench, a very large crescent wrench and some "UMPH" was needed to set the Jam Nuts. It took a couple tries to get them perfectly flat when the jam nut was tight. Easy though.
Disconnect all fasteners holding the speed sensors and the E-Brake cables to allow for maximum movement. I did not have to disconnect the speed sensors themselves, but be VERY CAREFUL, it's easy to lose track of where they are when you're manipulating the axle to get the new springs in. This is where the second set of eyes comes in handy. If you have doubts, disconnect them.
Stock springs come right out with no problem.
With everything disconnected and the axle flopping free and the Diff pivoting on the large floor jack, my brother in law who (resembles Golum) actually climbed into the wheel well and sat right on the hub forcing it down far enough to easily get the new springs in without needing spring compressors.

I installed Fox 2.0 shocks with remote reservoirs because I had a hard time tracking down Bilsteins which were my first choice.
Go with longer shocks than RK specs out, this kit has a crazy amount of travel, don't shoot yourself in the foot and limit your travel by too short of shocks.
I installed Teraflex extended bump stops. Rears can be installed at any time, but fronts need the springs removed so buy them ahead of time.
Have a large torque wrench on hand and double check everything. (120 ft lbs)



Likes: RK parts are built like tanks and their finish and overall quality are outstanding. You don't feel the least bit bad about spending $1200 when you open these babies up. You want to call people and show them off.
Expandability is excellent. I can use all the RK arms and simply lengthen them if I want to go to a larger kit or adjust pinion angle.
Ride is firmer but less harsh than stock. It's hard to describe and I don't know how much of that has to do with shocks you choose.

Extended stainless brake lines are very nice.

Rebuildable Krawler Joint.

Lifetime warranty on all "hard" parts.

Picked up 2" in the rear and 3.5" in the front.


Dislikes: No dislikes. This kit is awesome.

Recommendation: I would recommend this kit to anyone from the hunter to the hardcore wheeler. It's a very well built kit, gives enough lift to clear 35's, a ridiculous amount of flex and travel, very high quality, expandable.
Personally I think the price point is very good, especially for what you get.
If you only want to lift your Jeep once. Then this is a good candidate.

No wheeling photos yet, haven't had a chance...

Stock Suspension with 285's. Went to 315's when I did the lift.
img-20120505-00123.jpg   american-20fork-pleasant-20grove-20120519-00133.jpg   american-20fork-pleasant-20grove-20120519-00136.jpg  
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Unread 09-10-2012, 08:13 PM   #10
SirWinston
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2007 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Steamboat Springs, CO
Posts: 328

Lift Kit:
Teraflex 2.5", Model #1355210

Price: 357.00 from Burnsville Offroad

Install Time: Professionally installed at Burnsville Offroad

Install Notes: Professionally done to maintain warranty

Likes: Affordable, good quality, gave me the lift I needed. I love this lift, does exactly what I need it to. It rides great on the street too.

Dislikes: None

Recommendation: Anyone who wants to lift and keep good ride quality on the streets and wants good articulation offroad. This kit handles great on the road, and takes all the abuse of hard core wheeling. The only problem that Ive found with this kit, is that after 30k miles the stock bump stops start to fall apart a little, but theyre only a $8 part, from the dealership. Overall I love the lift




It does flex more then this


And this is back when I had 33's
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Unread 09-11-2012, 07:49 AM   #11
PGHCHAMP
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2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 373
Lift Kit: Rough Country JK 2.5" Series II Suspension
http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_jk_2.html

Price: $130 From local shop. Bumper to Bumper Auto (Family Friend)

Install Time: A little over 2 hours (with help from Family Friend^)

Install Notes: No issues, pretty straight forward instructions

Likes: Cheap way to fit 35's and lift your Jeep

Dislikes: Ride could be smoother. Kept stock shocks and springs.

Recommendation: For a DD and weekend Offroader

Stock Flares

Flat flares







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Unread 09-12-2012, 02:55 PM   #12
Mol
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2008 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 7,644
Lift Kit: "Frankenlift" 3" Teraflex coils & 1" teraflex spacers in the front, BDS adjustable flex arms, Teraflex monster front track bar, BDS rear trackbar, Teraflex shocks, Currie/EVO/Reid Steering
Price: ~ $1,450 without steering and knuckles, $2,650 with

Install Time: 4-6 hours with two people, add 3 hours if installing Reid knuckles and axle shafts (axle shafts not included in price above)
Install Notes: Rear track bar bracket should be welded in (optional), full alignment (including toe) required

Likes: A "frankenlift" is a spectacular choice for a number of reasons - you can customize your suspension by avoiding a full-kit purchase. For instance, 4 inch dual rate coils up front with 3" springs in the rear avoids any sag/droop caused by bumper/winch/armor, and offers superior articulation when compared to the average kit's coil, without having to add a spacer (as I did). No one company offers the best of everything, so do your research, and piece together the best. Maybe you just want to assemble your lift a bit at a time, starting with the necessary, and adding the performance later, or maybe you don't trust someone like BDS for their coils, but love the lifetime warranty on their control arms...

Dislikes: This avenue requires A LOT OF RESEARCH. If you have not done your research, you end up adding a spacer here, and swapping control arms there, and before you know it, you have double spent on parts that you didn't need to. If I changed any facet of my lift at this point, it would be my front coils and shocks. I will do this when I get to addressing my sway bar (currie antirock).

Recommendation: You get what you pay for...do your research, and buy a little at a time. Take into consideration the cost and effort of maintaining flex joints/heim joints in the long run...A lot of the full kits include them, and while the idea is sexy, if you're not wheeling your vehicle hard or regularly, really consider a fixed-end control arm...because the flex joints are not meant for the road, and they take time and money to repair, sooner than you think. Also, your squeaks will be kept to a minimum.

Edit: forgot pics









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Unread 10-02-2012, 05:48 PM   #13
NorCalRubicon
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 5
Lift Kit: MetalCloak Game-Changer Suspension, 3.5"; 7110

Price: $4k

Install Time: 2 days...I'm really meticulous, and I opted to do the recommended trimming of the front upper shock mounts, and rear lower control arm mounts.

Install Notes: There is minor trimming, as I stated above, and both are optional, but highly recommended. By trimming the rear lower control arm mounts, you can gain an additional 3" of ground clearance.

Likes: The attention to detail MC put in researching and developing the control arms and joints, dual rate springs, 6Pak shocks,...when combined together, result in great road manners and offroad articulation. For maximum articulation, you need to pair up their GCS with their Overline Tube Fenders. Insane amount of flex for a mid-arm lift!

Dislikes: Initially, the gold zinc plating, but I'm over it now.

Recommendation: Absolutely!!!

(Picture of jeeps stance with kit)




(Picture Wheeling it)









...I should probably stop now.
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Unread 10-31-2012, 07:39 AM   #14
va7gcm
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oliver
Posts: 1
394491_3727540787912_1577403126_n-1-.jpgLift Kit: (What kit, model #?)

Price: Carol and I had a Metal Cloak Game Changer Installed MRSP $3999. Got it at Shaffer Offroad in Parker AZ

Install Time: The install time was 7.5 hours, helped Shaffer Offroad install it

Install Notes: The Game Changer was a strictly bolt on, had to make no mod to the Jeep at all

Likes: The shocks are fantastic and you get amazing articulation

Dislikes: (None)

Recommendation: Would recommend it to any JK's that enjoy off roading. It improves the handling on road driving, and amazing offroad handling. Hard to get a tire off the ground any more.
(Picture Wheeling it
486982_4006093791563_1905197500_n-1-.jpg   313658_3711450985677_341264511_n-2-.jpg   282279_4024945382841_1482951950_n-1-.jpg   557571_4024903461793_998089683_n-2-.jpg  

Last edited by va7gcm; 11-03-2012 at 09:41 AM..
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Unread 05-08-2013, 09:58 PM   #15
benjmjeep
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2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 182
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrails
Lift Kit: Rock Krawler 2.5" Max Travel

Price: $1299 + $460 for Fox 2.0 shocks. Purchased through Jason at www.KrawlOff-Road.com

Install Time: About 10 hours with a friend who had done lift kits before. Maybe 6 hours if we hadn't stopped for pizza/beer breaks.

Install Notes: Ratchet straps help move the axles fore/aft when installing the new lower control arms.
Needed to trim the rear pinch seam/rock rails about 3" to clear 37's.
The rear track bar bracket bolts on, but should be welded on before taking it off-road.

Likes: Netted way more than 2.5" on my 2-door. Serious flex. Enough where I need to get some spring retainer clips ASAP.
The parts are very sturdy/strong/heavy. The wife noticed it before I did, when she said, "it feels much more stable than stock".
Front and rear extended brake lines included with kit.
The lifetime Abuse Proof Warranty is unmatched by any other lift kit manufacturer. You break it, they replace it!

Dislikes:- The Rock Krawler instructions include every lift kit they make. You have to go through the instructions and highlight the parts
that apply to your particular lift kit. The rear trackbar relocation bracket is a very close fit to the left rear shock.
Have had minor rubbing.

Recommendation: This may be "only" a 2.5" lift, but it provides about 4-5" lift and is seriously built for off-road.
On-road manners are even better than stock. Sorry, couldn't find any off-road pics.
Probably because I seem to be the club photographer and can't take a pic of myself in action. LOL!
The bottom pic shows it flexing on a buddy's 39.5" tire, with the other 3 tires squarely on the ground.
Have you had any drive line issues yet thinking about doing this
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