I found this write-up on changing the LEDs in the center stack/hard buttons on RER Mygig, from a Charger Forum - I will copy and paste because the images do not display in that forum - and here is the link http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-77449.html
I wanted to change the backlighting color of my entire car for a while, and after getting some inspiration from Optimus124, I decided to just do it. What good is a Go ManGo with green backlighting? I had a thread about this (http://www.chargerforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=58382
), but I wanted several posts up front to allow for all of the pictures, so I've closed down that thread and everything new will be here.
First off, this will completely void your warranty (at least for the components you touch)! Don't try this if you aren't willing to give that up. You should be confident in your soldering skills to try this. You will be working next to a lot of other small components, and if you don't have a steady hand, or you like to use a lot of solder, you could screw something up.
Overall, I would give this a 4-7 on the difficulty scale (1-Easiest, 10-Hardest) depending on what you're working on.
Here are the components that I use:
1160 mcd (millicandela)
1.9V (voltage drop)
45° viewing angle (angle when brightness is 1/2 of rated)
This is not the only option. You can use whatever you want. I recommend that whatever LED you get, you get something with a wide viewing angle. This will help to lessen the bright/dark spots. If you are using a different LED, here is a website that you can use to find out what resistor to use (make sure to use 14V as source voltage):
To date, I have used 25 LEDs. Here is the breakdown of LEDs used for the different items (estimates are noted with an ansterik*):
5 - Dual-Zone HVAC
2 - Heated Seat Switches (1 each)
1 - ESP button (0 if going for blue)
3 - Homelink garage opener
12 - Navigation Radio
2 - Headlight Switch
*4 - Steering Wheel buttons
*4 - Driver Window Switch
*2 - Pass. Window Switch
*2 - 2 x Rear Window Switches
*1 - Mirror Switch
*3 - VES
And here is how my car looks currently:
Without further ado, here are the writeups:
Okay, this has been the hardest and most time-consuming to date. Just be prepared to take this one apart and fix it a time or two if it doesn't work out right the first time.
*** Be Warned: The Nav Radio will not really dim if you change to LEDs (the screen still will. though)***
First, take off the center stack bezel and just the Nav should be left there. It is attached with four PH2 Phillips screws (normal Phillips) as shown below.
There are three or four connectors on the back of this radio. One main connector for power, one for the radio antenna, another for the GPS antenna, and a fourth if you have Sirius and/or VES. The radio antenna just pulls out of the back of the radio, and the other three plugs have locking tabs that are on the bottom of the connectors.
First thing to do once you have the radio out is remove the three knobs. Just grab ahold of them and pull. Once you have the knobs off, there are 12 screws holding the faceplate on. Four on each side and two on the top and two on the bottom. These screws are PH1 Phillips screws (small Phillips). Once these are gone, there are three tabs on top and bottom that you can release with a small screwdriver and then take the faceplate off.
Now for the real work. First, you will need 12 LEDs and 6 resistors. You will need to sand down the resistors almost to the metal part so that they will fit. The bulbs that they currently have in there are very low profile and are much smaller than the LEDs. If you don't sand down the LEDs as far as they can go, you won't be able to put the faceplate back on.
For this install, the resistors will not go on the LEDs as in the other installs. The LEDs will replace the bulbs and the resistors will go on the back side of the PCB. More on this in a minute. To get the LEDs ready, cut the leads short and bend them as flat as possible against the bottom of the LED.
Onto the circuit part of the install. For those that have been reading this thread before this got posted, I mentioned something about needing a 150ohm resistor because each bulb is powered by 5V. I have now determined that this is incorrect and that resistor change is unnecessary. After screwing this up a couple of times, I started to trace out how the circuit works. The end result: there are 6 circuits that have two lights on each. Because there are two bulbs on one circuit, they each take half of the voltage (11V / 2 = 5.5V). That is why I thought it was running on 5V earlier. Here is a pic of the PCB with polarities for the LEDs and showing how the LEDs are connected by the PCB.
As you put the LEDs on the PCB, try to make them as close as possible to the PCB. This will help in keeping you from possibly coming back and tweaking it later to get everything to go back together correctly. Once the LEDs are installed, they will look something like this.
Take extra care to make sure they are centered on the rectangle on the PCB. This will help for alignment to the light pipes. You will want to take the light pipes off of the faceplate and lay them on the PCB to make sure that the LEDs are aligned to the holes correctly. To take the light pipes off, look at the back of the faceplate and you will see 4 PH1 screws. Remove these and the light pipes will come off (there are 3 pieces).
Lay these on the PCB to be sure of alignment and that everything will go together smoothly. You will also want to make sure that the LEDs are lower that flush with the top of the holes. If they are flush or higher than the top of the holes, you won't be able to put the faceplate on.
Now onto the resistors. On the PCB you will see 4 PH1 Phillips screws holding the PCB to the rest of the radio. Remove these and pull the PCB off. There are three connectors on the back that will disconnect as you pull it off, but these will add a little resistance. There is also a cord attached to the left side that you need to unplug.
On the back of the PCB you will see six groups of two surface-mount resistors in the circled areas. They should have "6R8" written on them.
Note that the configuration of these two resistors is an area with a metal circle goes through one resistor to another area with no metal circle, through the other resistor and ends up at another area with a metal circle. You will need to remove all of the resistors and place one resistor (the one you're using for everything else) connecting the two areas with the metal circles.
After I screwed this up for the second time, I took this into work, and a coworker helped me figure out I could use this area to put my resistors, we installed surface-mount resistors because they were available and I didn't have my resistors. Putting a regular resistor there shouldn't hurt anything because there is a lot of clearance between the PCB and radio when its installed. I showed one in the picture for reference.
When putting the faceplace back on, it should snap back into place without any effort. If there is effort, something isn't right, and you have a clearance problem. if the screw holes are slightly off and just need a little coaxing to line up, that's fine. Also, once you snap the faceplate on, make sure all of the buttons press and spring back. If they are sunk in, you have a clearance problem. Also, the first couple of times I did this, some of the buttons didn't acknowledge unless I pressed harder than normal. This was a clearance problem. Like I said earlier, you might have to take this back apart a couple of times to get it right.
Once it's all put back together, install into the car and enjoy! :rockon:
HVAC (A/C, climate control, etc.)
You need to remove the center bezel to get to the HVAC controller. Once you have that removed and the connectors removed, there are four screws that need to be removed. These are 4mm hex head screws.
You need to remove the knobs before you can separate the housing, so turn all of them counter-clockwise and just pull them off. There are 8 snaps that you can release with a flat head screwdriver. Now you can take everything apart and get the PCB (circuit board) by itself. The bulbs that are there don't have any polarity, so the PCB is not marked for that, but you will need to know what the polarity is for the LEDs. Here is the polarity for all 5 of the lights.
To remove the existing bulbs, you will work with the two sides with the small metal piece. Start by putting your iron as close as you can to one side to heat up the solder underneath the bulb. Once it's hot and flowing, try to tilt it up. Now go to the other side and repeat. Keep doing this until it is totally free. Here is a bulb sitting next to the solder pads.
When replacing bulbs with LEDs, resistors need to be added in-line with the LED so they don't blow up. You can purchase LEDs with these resistors added in and these will make the installation a little easier. If you have the resistor built-in, you can reuse the plastic base from the old bulbs. Pull the metal leads free from the sides, straighten the leads out, and pull the bulb right out. Repeat this process in reverse to put the LED in. Note that the LED won't fit down into the hole because of its lip. If you sand it down, it should fit just fine. I recommend against leaving the LED sit on top of the base because of the hot spots described later.
I had to buy separate LEDs and resistors. Doing it this way gave more options for color, viewing angle, and brightness. When put on (paying attention to polarity) it looks like this.
By no means is this the only way to orient the parts, nor is it necessarily the best way. It's just they way I did it.
I put it back together (not snapping the housing closed) and took it out to look at the results. Unfortunately, when I turned on the backlighting, there were very bad "hot spots" of light.
Using a suggestion from FxFIXER, I sanded all of the LEDs hoping to diffuse the light a bit and distribute it more evenly. You can see how sanding dramatically changes the optics of the LED. I also tried to make them as low to the board as possible. When lowering them, there was a place where the resistor could become shorted, so I put some electrical tape down to prevent the short.