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Unread 09-30-2013, 09:26 PM   #16
222Doc
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You know most of the threads here that claimed the front tube broke. If you look at the pic's most are all from collision. As there is no way to bend a lower CA too. you would think that these axles bend hitting a pot hole. I have seen a lot of stupid stuff on trails but to bend a C takes getting AIR or a Collision, falling off a ledge . you go in low, slow, rock crawling is easier on a rig than mudding. where you tend to go Wot and aim her straight.

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Unread 09-30-2013, 09:48 PM   #17
duneslider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maniacal_rick View Post
For me, I went with a Prorock D44 vs. upgrading the D30, for a few reasons.

The PR44 was $5500 to my door. That was with RCV's, ARB Locker, Synergy BJ's, a new yoke, 4.56 gears, Synergy High Steer Brackets and Reid Knuckles. That was with no tax, and free shipping with the axle built and ready to bolt up. (ordered from NR4x4)


For all of those parts for the D30, you are looking around $2600-2800. Lets assume you arent regearding as you stated - you will still need to install everything. Lets estimate that you will pay $300 for labor - just for the locker install and you do everything else yourself. You are at $3100 for parts. Now add the cost of a truss and gussets, installed (assuming you arent a welder) - you will be somewhere in the realm of $4,000 after tax and labor and all that.

My PR44 was $5500, and I sold my D30 for $800 bringing the cost to $4700.


For me, the $700 is well worth the additional strength, caster and steering geometry correction.


Or install a locker in a D30 and run it till is breaks.

Or go cheap and save some money and upgrade when you have to. I bought a d30 with sleeves, gussets, new ball joints and 5.13's for $400 and added a locker installed for about $800. So, I am into it $1200 and have an extra set of shafts and unit bearings to take with me on the trail in case something goes bad. So, I will leave the other $4300 in the bank to earn interest for a few years until I destroy the d30 and have to buy a pr44. And I will get some good Karma by donating my empty housing to whoever will come take it out of my yard. I keep an eye on the local classifieds and see good deals on built up d30's several times a year. The d30 certainly isn't everyones best option, I know guys that destroy 60's and for them the d30 just won't cut it but the d30 has lasted me almost 7 years now and 82000 miles and I suspect I will get more than a trip or two out of this built axle.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:10 PM   #18
maniacal_rick
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duneslider View Post
Or go cheap and save some money and upgrade when you have to. I bought a d30 with sleeves, gussets, new ball joints and 5.13's for $400 and added a locker installed for about $800. So, I am into it $1200 and have an extra set of shafts and unit bearings to take with me on the trail in case something goes bad. So, I will leave the other $4300 in the bank to earn interest for a few years until I destroy the d30 and have to buy a pr44. And I will get some good Karma by donating my empty housing to whoever will come take it out of my yard. I keep an eye on the local classifieds and see good deals on built up d30's several times a year. The d30 certainly isn't everyones best option, I know guys that destroy 60's and for them the d30 just won't cut it but the d30 has lasted me almost 7 years now and 82000 miles and I suspect I will get more than a trip or two out of this built axle.

Thats a good deal. If I had found that same axle I would have done the same. I watch ebay and CL constantly and never found anything worth it.

And if I had an 80k mile D30, I would give it away also. Mine had 9k miles on it and was complete from C to C. Well worth it for the guy that didn't want to pay 3k for a dealer to replace his D30 from an accident.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 10:30 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz View Post
The dana 30 tubes are the same as the 44 as are the knuckles. Only difference is housing ring and pinion size. what gears will you be running?
Not true. Only a tj/jk/rubicon 44 share the same outers and by now we all know that these are not real 44s and shouldn't be lumped in with all the rest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRodriguez View Post
the high pinion D30 is actually are very strong design.
Not really. Many of us have proven otherwise on pretty mild wheeling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by duneslider View Post
Only lock it when it needs to be locked and unlock it when you don't need it.
This rarely works as a shaft wont always go at the hardest point it is pushed. Splines can twist but the shaft can hold. This is why you occasionally see dana 35 users on the side of the road on monday morning.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 11:20 PM   #20
duneslider
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Care to elaborate? So far as I have been able to determine the d30 and d44 jk axles are identical when comparing the outers? Obviously, the differentials are different and the axle shafts and u-joints but the tubes and C's and knuckles are the same. What makes a d44 a real one and what makes one not a real one?

I haven't seen too many d30's on the forum that have been destroyed so it must not be that common, there are way more leaking tops and jeeps with DW than exploding d30's. If it were a huge issue people would constantly be crying about it.

Don't get me wrong, the d30 isn't the worlds greatest axle and certainly has its limitations but it is plenty stout for a lot of jeepers out there, whether it is locked or not. Again, some guys manage to break anything and the d30 isn't a good choice for them.
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Unread 09-30-2013, 11:53 PM   #21
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Yes, in the JK models, the d30 and d44 front ends, the axle tubes and C's are the same. Pumpkin, internals and axle shafts are different. Have heard of very few JK d30 failures on this forum or others. They are not the same as the TJ d44, but it was Jeep decision to call them a d44 for reasons I know not. As you note, the d35 is a different animal altogether.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 12:25 AM   #22
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I dont think anyone is claiming to make a dana 30 explode. They are notorious for breaking shafts on oversized tires and well as pushing out ball joints. The biggest issue i have is the breaks just arent up to stopping large tires effectively. All of these issues can be remedied now-a-days, however, with all the money people put into them its possible to build something much better.

I wouldn't put an expensive full carrier locker like a selectable into a 30. An Aussie or similar is a nice low cost effective alternative that makes sense money wise if you don't plan to throw a lot into it. If you plan to polish your 30 with everything then might as well do a full case unit.

What I find problematic is people only understanding the dana 44 as those from a TJ or JK. They use the term "44" as being synonymous with that of a TJ or JK unit and that is just wrong. Long before those vehicles were designed a dana 44 could be had with beefier tubing, real hubs, larger breaks, and even an 8 lug pattern.

I used the dana 35 reference only to site the fact that final failure (no matter what axle assembly) does not always occur when the damage is done. The 35 is a drastic example but the concept is the same.
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Unread 10-01-2013, 06:46 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fratis View Post
Not true. Only a tj/jk/rubicon 44 share the same outers and by now we all know that these are not real 44s and shouldn't be lumped in with all the rest.

Not really. Many of us have proven otherwise on pretty mild wheeling.

This rarely works as a shaft wont always go at the hardest point it is pushed. Splines can twist but the shaft can hold. This is why you occasionally see dana 35 users on the side of the road on monday morning.
Im aware i just assumed that seen as were in the jk section he had jk 30 and 44s...unless he did a weird swap. But your right i should have been more clear.
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Unread 10-02-2013, 04:49 PM   #24
JohnRodriguez
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I article on the jeep dragster was in JP magazine september 2010. it's a 77 cj-7 and has 1400 HP.
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