d30 worth air locking? - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
jager00
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d30 worth air locking?

Let me start by saying I dont plan on running more than 35's on my Sahara. Is it pointless to put air lockers on a d30 axles? Are they strong enough? ( I was going to search threads but my phone doesnt like the forum search button for some reason)


2007 JK Sahara- trying to figure this one out


2005 WK 9" lift on 37's with all the goodies- regretfully sold :(
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post #2 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 08:27 PM
Maertz
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depends on what you are doing, on 35s with mild wheeling and gussets and a truss you would PROBABLY be fine. You will get a ton of different answers on this. The dana 30 tubes are the same as the 44 as are the knuckles. Only difference is housing ring and pinion size. what gears will you be running?
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post #3 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 08:40 PM Thread Starter
jager00
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Ill prob keep the factory gears in it due to me dd'ing the jeep. Stock gears are 373 correct? Is there anotuer gear option that wont kill my already bad mpg?

2007 JK Sahara- trying to figure this one out


2005 WK 9" lift on 37's with all the goodies- regretfully sold :(
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post #4 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 09:00 PM
Maertz
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well on bigger tires changing gears will help your mpgs..but on a d30 i wouldnt go higher than 4.88 but thats just me. You on an auto or manual? if gears are even slightly an option id do them with the gears if your not doing it yourself you will save a ton of money.
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post #5 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 09:00 PM
JohnRodriguez
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the high pinion D30 is actually are very strong design. there is some guy runnig a 1500 hp jeep dragster all wheel drive with a d30 in it. and he figures that 30% of the power is going to it. I'll look for the article about it. The ****ty part of the JK D30 is that they are prone to bending and shattering the passenger side tube at the lower control arm mount.

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post #6 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 09:19 PM
Maertz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnRodriguez View Post
the high pinion D30 is actually are very strong design. there is some guy runnig a 1500 hp jeep dragster all wheel drive with a d30 in it. and he figures that 30% of the power is going to it. I'll look for the article about it. The ****ty part of the JK D30 is that they are prone to bending and shattering the passenger side tube at the lower control arm mount.
my understanding was the axle tubes breaking at the control arms on that side were due to a cheap chinese metal used in them at the time and is no longer an issue....

also i cant say i believe a dana 30s ring and pinion could handle that much hp....or the axle shafts.

id love to see the article. yes they are hp as are the 44s, but that dont make them usbale in applications where you should have a d60 or something similar.
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post #7 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 09:51 PM
JohnRodriguez
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I guess that jager00 being a 07 and my jk being a 08 it would be a issue since we have the cheap chinese junk in our jeeps

89 Wrangler, 2.5L TBI, D30 Truetrac 4.56 gear front, Super 35 4.56 gears rear, 31" BFG Mud's, 15x9" weld racing pro-stars XP's, 2.5" rancho and 1.25" shackels, superior axles. rear wilwood disc brakes

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post #8 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 10:07 PM
Maertz
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i also dont believe it was all but im not 100% sure on that or the years. regardless thatd be the least of my concerns compared to ring and pinion depending on how hard you will wheel. you could always truss and sleeve to help that cant really do much to fix R&P issue
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post #9 of 24 Old 09-29-2013, 11:36 PM
MoonyJohn
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Maybe invest in a cheaper locker option. Maybe get a spartan locker? They are cheap and easy to put in..

"Water covers 3/4 of the earth, Jeep covers the rest"
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post #10 of 24 Old 09-30-2013, 04:17 AM
TheBoss
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There are those that run selectable lockers in their d30 , but it all depends how hard you use it. Disengaging it in tight turning low speed crawling when you don't absolutely need it locked will buy you some longevity. You could pound in some Nitro sleeves and weld on some gussets and see how long the factory shafts last.

You need to make a list of the parts and possibly labor involved between building yours , sourcing a used d44 from a rubicon or buying a new built axle. No sense throwing money at an axle if the better option is only a few hundred more dollars.
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post #11 of 24 Old 09-30-2013, 07:48 AM
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I have a zip locker in a d30. I haven't installed the axle yet so no long term testing. I think you just need to remember what it is and act appropriately. Only lock it when it needs to be locked and unlock it when you don't need it. I am leaving the shafts and u-joints stock and crossing my fingers that will be the weak link. I will have an extra set of shafts with me on the trail. If I destroy the R&P I will pony up the money for a prorock or tera44. I don't wheel as hard as a lot of guys so I am not too concerned about it. My buddy has a TJ on 37's and has been running an arb in his front d30 for years and been okay.

A lot depends on how hard you wheel, some would destroy my setup first time out. I don't think I will.
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post #12 of 24 Old 09-30-2013, 08:45 AM
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Of course you'll be fine, in fact it is a good idea. People have been locking Dana 30s for years

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post #13 of 24 Old 09-30-2013, 08:50 AM
RockyClymer
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My d30 front is sleeved, gusseted and running RCV shafts. I have an ARB and 4.88 gearing, it has served me well over the years under hard wheeling conditions but with some common sense as to when to use and not use a front locker. I can tell you that when in reverse gear, you are running on the weak side (coast side) of the high pinion gear set and it is weak...I know. Just do not try and pull someone who is stuck out by using reverse gear...use winch or turn around. Anyway, d30 still going strong when used as it should.

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post #14 of 24 Old 09-30-2013, 08:28 PM
MoonyJohn
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What about an aussie locker? Anybody have experience with an auto locker, non air?

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post #15 of 24 Old 09-30-2013, 09:22 PM
maniacal_rick
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For me, I went with a Prorock D44 vs. upgrading the D30, for a few reasons.

The PR44 was $5500 to my door. That was with RCV's, ARB Locker, Synergy BJ's, a new yoke, 4.56 gears, Synergy High Steer Brackets and Reid Knuckles. That was with no tax, and free shipping with the axle built and ready to bolt up. (ordered from NR4x4)


For all of those parts for the D30, you are looking around $2600-2800. Lets assume you arent regearding as you stated - you will still need to install everything. Lets estimate that you will pay $300 for labor - just for the locker install and you do everything else yourself. You are at $3100 for parts. Now add the cost of a truss and gussets, installed (assuming you arent a welder) - you will be somewhere in the realm of $4,000 after tax and labor and all that.

My PR44 was $5500, and I sold my D30 for $800 bringing the cost to $4700.


For me, the $700 is well worth the additional strength, caster and steering geometry correction.


Or install a locker in a D30 and run it till is breaks.

2012 2Dr JK - Metalcloak - Currie - Prorock - ARB - Poison Spyder - RCV - Synergy - Etc...
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