Custom Relay and Fuse Box for Accessories (sPOD knockoff) - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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post #16 of 70 Old 01-19-2014, 12:41 PM
smadge
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Non-relayed schematic......?

Incredible write up. The pictures helped tremendously. With that, I have a couple of questions:
I'm tracking the 16ga wire from the seat warmer fuse in the fuse block to power point 85 when the ignition is on, but I missed the 18ga wire from the battery that you ran with the starter cable to the circuit breaker. Where exactly does that go and what does it power??

Additionally, your picture of the backside of the block is great for the relay wiring(that includes the accessory and the switch), but do you have one that depicts the wiring for the non-relayed connections?

I grasp the general concept of this and would really like to give this a go, but just want to make sure that I have as much information as possible before I start so I'm not trying to figure it out on the fly....

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post #17 of 70 Old 01-19-2014, 08:34 PM
MKE_Mike
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Great write-ups, thanks for the great information
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post #18 of 70 Old 01-28-2014, 12:33 PM
IceKnight
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Very nice write-up and great super clean install. Gave me some ideas for my project, Thanks.
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post #19 of 70 Old 01-28-2014, 03:27 PM
lysol
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Have you thought about making a switch panel box with about 8 switch blanks for roll bars? There are so many aftermarket roll bars out there, but no switch panel boxes for them....

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post #20 of 70 Old 01-29-2014, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
GauchoMark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smadge View Post
Incredible write up. The pictures helped tremendously. With that, I have a couple of questions:
I'm tracking the 16ga wire from the seat warmer fuse in the fuse block to power point 85 when the ignition is on, but I missed the 18ga wire from the battery that you ran with the starter cable to the circuit breaker. Where exactly does that go and what does it power??
the starter cable is actually 4 ga and goes from the battery, to the circuit breakers, then on to the service stud on the fuse side of the relay box. It is shown in the 5th picture down (the real world schematic). The 18 ga wire is your switch and illumination lead for the switches to control the relays.

Quote:
Additionally, your picture of the backside of the block is great for the relay wiring(that includes the accessory and the switch), but do you have one that depicts the wiring for the non-relayed connections?
so... on that same schematic I mentioned above, see the 14 ga wire that I ran between the fuses and relays? You just run wire from the fuse directly to the switch then back to the terminal block instead. That is why the wire I ran inside the cab was 12 conductor - each non-relay switch takes up 2 of the conductors, the illumination takes a conductor, and each relayed circuit takes a conductor, then they all use a common ground.

Quote:
I grasp the general concept of this and would really like to give this a go, but just want to make sure that I have as much information as possible before I start so I'm not trying to figure it out on the fly....
I will say... take your time and MAKE SURE you understand what you are doing and how you are going to do it. It was a pretty cool project, but it was time consuming! Like I said previously, the spod isn't that expensive looking back, by I like my finished product better!
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post #21 of 70 Old 01-29-2014, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
GauchoMark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lysol View Post
Have you thought about making a switch panel box with about 8 switch blanks for roll bars? There are so many aftermarket roll bars out there, but no switch panel boxes for them....
not really. I'd like to think that anyone that is skilled enough to put in a roll bar is probably skilled enough to make a switch bracket! A roll bar is a project that I would not take on!
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post #22 of 70 Old 01-30-2014, 09:40 AM
lysol
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Originally Posted by GauchoMark View Post
not really. I'd like to think that anyone that is skilled enough to put in a roll bar is probably skilled enough to make a switch bracket! A roll bar is a project that I would not take on!
I was referring to the bolt-on type. Not a custom weld-in.

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post #23 of 70 Old 02-27-2014, 07:33 AM
ANDO725
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relay fuse box

Just want to know if you have pictures of how the box was built?
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post #24 of 70 Old 04-15-2014, 06:33 PM
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subscribed for future reference

"You'll Shoot Your Eye Out"
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post #25 of 70 Old 04-16-2014, 07:04 AM
RalphTomaccio
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Only 2 of the 55 images you posted show up. All the others have a little blue box with a "?" in it.

Anyone else have this problem?
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post #26 of 70 Old 04-16-2014, 08:28 AM
MrFusion
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Originally Posted by RalphTomaccio View Post
Only 2 of the 55 images you posted show up. All the others have a little blue box with a "?" in it.

Anyone else have this problem?
Getting the same result here too.
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post #27 of 70 Old 04-16-2014, 03:02 PM
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really would like to see those photo's...


please buy this NEW IN BOX:JK Rugged Ridge Light Bar
2013 JK Rubicon, Commando Green, CB, GPS, KC lites
KC Jeep Club Info - M416 Trailer Project
3 Previous Jeeps - 01 WJ Ltd, QD & UC - 01 WJ Ltd, QT II - 98 XJ Ltd
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post #28 of 70 Old 04-17-2014, 09:29 AM
mtnbiker995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANDO725
Just want to know if you have pictures of how the box was built?
If you check my build thread, link below, I made my own fuse/relay block for my jeep. I can take pictures of anything you'd like and post it up if you don't see what you're looking for

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
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post #29 of 70 Old 04-18-2014, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
GauchoMark
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Ah, I changed webserver recently and forgot to copy those pics over. I'll fix it sometime this weekend
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post #30 of 70 Old 04-25-2014, 01:38 PM
Airborne Lee
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Ah, I changed webserver recently and forgot to copy those pics over. I'll fix it sometime this weekend
Liar.


please buy this NEW IN BOX:JK Rugged Ridge Light Bar
2013 JK Rubicon, Commando Green, CB, GPS, KC lites
KC Jeep Club Info - M416 Trailer Project
3 Previous Jeeps - 01 WJ Ltd, QD & UC - 01 WJ Ltd, QT II - 98 XJ Ltd
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