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Old04-20-2008, 04:09 PM #1
dugn8r
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Custom Hidden Toolbox - Pics!

I decided that the tool box that I had was too bulky to keep in my JK. I couldn't find any of them that had what I wanted that would fit in the small hidden compartment, so I decided to make one by vacuum bagging fiberglass. THis way, I would have a nice tool tray and be able to hand pick the tools within. Here's how I am doing it:

Step one

Find a nice, flat surface, In this case, I used a piece of marble. I cut a black piece ot tool-box liner to the dimensions of my compartment.


Next, I overlaid heavy-duty seran wrap on top and taped it off.



I then laid out my tools how I wanted them. THis will be the final resting place. I chose all the tools that I would need for small and mediocre tasks for mmy JK. A full selection of 1/4 and 3/8" sockets, to include star bits and hex bits. I picked the rachets Ilike the best.

After I was satisfied with the layout, I covered the layout with the seran wrap and again taped it off. THey make other materials for this, but I wanted something thin and flexable that would get into the crevices and provide support.



I then covered this whole thing with a special peel-ply layer for easy removal of the fiberglass. The extra ply will make the bux slightly larger than the parts, but this is good. I intend to spray it with a cound deadening material.



I mixed up a batch of epoxy... make sure you wear gloves and don't deviate from the proper mix AT ALL! If you do, you will wind up with a gooey mess. Soak very thin fiberglass in this Epoxy, wring out the excess and lay it on top of the peel ply. Don't do large strips of fiberglass - do many small patches. They will bond together and when vacuum is applied, will allow the patches to settle into the crevices.



Now, I attached the fitting and vacuum line to the top vacuum layer. I clamped the edges with wood to keep pressure on the special tape used for the vacuum bagging. After turning on the pump, I let it run and then release the vacuum. I move the fiberglass with my fingers and apply the vacuum again. I repeat this until I get the shape I want. You can see how the fiberglass and other layers mold around the tools. I also have a hairdryer rinning across the top. Epoxy does not cure faster by adding more catalyst, like polyester. If you want it to cure faster, induce heat. THis will make the process much faster. In fact, I've cut 15 hour cure times down to 15 minutes with other applications.

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Old04-20-2008, 05:01 PM #2
CGScotty
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Interesting Idea. Looking forward to the final outcome.
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Old04-20-2008, 05:07 PM #3
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We're getting there...

Okay - I let it cure for about an hour. Usually, I would have done longer, but it won't affect anything. Here it is after I took the vacuum bagging plastic off and flipped it over. Keep in mind there is still the layer of seran wrap (red) and peel ply on top of the fiberglass. nce this cured for another several hours, I will remove it. Probably tomorrow morning.



Here, I removed the 3/8" wrench so you can see how well it took the form. The sockets are all secure in their position.


After it cures, I will embed the bottom crevaces in a combination of Epoxy and cabosil (tiny bots of silacate to add body to the epoxy). I will mold this to the compartment in the JK. After that hardens, I will make the top lid of this toolbox. with the same vacuum bagging process as shown above. When all completed, I will paint the whole thing white to match the JK.
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Old04-20-2008, 05:11 PM #4
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So where exactly are you putting this "toolbox"? In the back inside the little "lockable" trunk space?
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Old04-20-2008, 05:17 PM #5
dugn8r
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Originally Posted by scrogg View Post
So where exactly are you putting this "toolbox"? In the back inside the little "lockable" trunk space?
Yup. I guess tooxbox is not fitting - It's more like a formed tool tray.

I trimmed it - at this point, the epoxy is still soft, but that's not a problem. It's a lot easier to trim to size when it's soft - otherwise, you have to grind it.

Here is my trunk lid down so you can see - why yes, that IS another 42" XMitter in the back ( - we'll have to see where that goes!)



And here it is with the cover lifted. It takes up a milimum of space - about 1.25" thick.


Last edited by dugn8r : 04-20-2008 at 06:18 PM.
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Old04-20-2008, 06:47 PM #6
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It looks cool but you should paint it black then it would look natural
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Old04-20-2008, 06:53 PM #7
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I think of a perfect spot for that extra XMitter bar... but it's not on your Jeep, it would be on mine.

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Old04-20-2008, 07:11 PM #8
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....WHAT!?!?! Another XMITTER?!..........pretty soon you will be able to spot your Jeep from space it going to be so bright!!
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Old04-20-2008, 07:20 PM #9
dugn8r
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Originally Posted by NewhampshireYJ View Post
....WHAT!?!?! Another XMITTER?!..........pretty soon you will be able to spot your Jeep from space it going to be so bright!!
We're working on it... Anyways, when I come to Maine in May (9th), I'm going to contact you. I really want to go to the Rock Mountain Terrain Park in Maine. Unless you can think of better places to go.
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Old04-20-2008, 08:53 PM #10
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I bet if you turn both those Xmitters on I could see you here in Oklahoma =)

I think that tool tray is an awesome idea!!
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Quote:
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I just make a BOOP BEEP sound with my mouth (really loud) as I walk away from the jeep, and point the key at it.
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Old04-20-2008, 09:02 PM #11
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I'd love a tray like that molded for a handgun, an extra clip, and a flashlight.


That really is impressive work.
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Old04-20-2008, 10:30 PM #12
dugn8r
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Originally Posted by ge2 View Post
I'd love a tray like that molded for a handgun, an extra clip, and a flashlight.


That really is impressive work.
What kind of handgun, magazine and flashlight? I might bust one out for you.
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Old04-20-2008, 10:33 PM #13
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I typically have either an HK USP compact 9 or a Springfield XD subcompact 9. Do you know the laws on shipping pistols? I'd probably just send you one to use as a mold.
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Old04-20-2008, 10:43 PM #14
dugn8r
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Well, a working firearm has to go through an FFL. I know people with various firearms... I will see if they have one I can use. But pick one.

Why don't you just carry it on you? Is it against the law up there? I think carry laws are the biggest horse crap ever. Here is why:

It there is a law saying only law abiding citizens can carry guns with a permit, the only people who would follow that law is, oh... say... a law abiding citizen. The guy who goes out selling crack and robbing people is not going to give two damns about the carry laws for his state. Why? He's friggin robbing people and selling crack. I had a guy shoot out my windshield about 4 months ago... he had been arrested four previous times for being a Felon in possession of a firearm. He didn't particularly care about the law.

Anyways... not to rant - if I can find one, I will let you know.

USP - Nice weapon, by the way. I used to carry a H&K USP .40 tactical. Now I carry a Glock 34. Not nearly the quality, but far faster in a gunfight.

Here we go - you know the specs on the Jeep. Not for the artillery:

The large one is a trued Remington 700 action and bolt. This is mated to a Shilen Select Match grade barrel champered for .300 Winchester Magnum. The action is pillar bedded atop a McMIllian A4 stock with adjustable cheek piece. On top of the action is a Near Manufacturing 30 MOA one-piece base which has been lapped and bedded to the action. On the base is a set of IOR 35mm rings and an IOR 6-24 x 35mm scope. Oh yeah - the side-mounted swivel stud (called the Combat Stud) is my own patented and manufactured design. The trigger is a Jewell match trigger set to 1.5 pounds. This combination has hit a 13x17 steel plate at 1680 yards (the one mile club).

THe smaller one is a Patriot Ordinance Factory 5.56mm gas-piston operated shorty AR15. As you can see, the bolt carrier group and the inside of the upper receiver are nickel plated and it does not require any lubrication, unlike a normal thirsty AR15. Another benefit from the gas-piston operation, in addition to severe reliability, is that the insude of the rifle stays spotless. I have a Magpul collapsable stock and grip, Troy Industries front and rear flip-up sight, a nightvision compatible Holosight it has been digitally urban camouflaged using KG Industries coating. The trigger is a Jewell two-stage trigger. The first stage (the take up) is set to 1 pound and the second (the break) is set to 2 pounds.

In my patrol car is an ANPVS-14 night vision monocular that I keep on the headset. I can use it with the holosight from the headset or slap on the NV mount. Also in my car I carry 20 30-round magazines and a 200-round double drum magazine. I pack a lot of firepower when I work.



My duty weapon is a Glock 34; standard magazine is kept in the mag well, however, on the two spares on my duty belt, I use an H&K mag pouch so I can fit the two extensions on my Glock Mags. I replaced the springs with .40 caliber springs to prevent weakening and to ensure they feed properly.



My off-duty weapon is a Glock 19.
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Old04-21-2008, 08:45 AM #15
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Nice weapons! Well, I have a CWP for Washington Sate, and have for almost half my life (that makes me sound old), but truthfully I don't carry frequently for personal protection. There are times that I do, and I've trained enough to be very comfortable in those situations, but no-- this tray would be for me to keep a sidearm in the vehicle on roadtrips. That's really about the only time I keep one in the vehicle with me.

Here are a few others that I have-- any of these would work if you can stumble across one:

the H&K USP
Springfield XD 9
Taurus (Baretta mold) .380
Taurus Millennium .45
Sig P229 (I'd rather not do this one though as it's not my favorite gun to take on trips)
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