As you may know, I have had a CoolTech 5 switch panel installed since December but it has not been wired up to anything. I've been waiting until I determine all of my electrical needs so I can, hopefully, do it all at once and do a nice and clean job of things. Well, I believe I am there.
FWIW - previous electrical related mods leading up to this include:
- Custom bumper-based reverse lights (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/blog.php?b=118)
- Re-wiring my stock fog lights to use a relay and higher wattage bulbs (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/blog.php?b=121)
- Preparing my rear bumper for the Mopar 7-pin wiring harness (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/installing-mopar-7-pin-trailer-adapter-brake-controller-jk-586378/)
- Installing a magnetic switch to operate my garage door opener (http://blogs.jeepforum.com/texasdog/...h_part_1_of_2/)
- Making and installing a wiring harness for this switch panel (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/cooltech-5-switch-panel-jk-wiring-583577/)
- Acquiring a Tekonsha P3 electric trailer brake controller.
Having done all of that, and some additional thinking about my electrical needs (including planning for future mods), this is what I've come up with.
I realize it isn't ideal or perfect, but this is the best I could do. It's not water proof, but I really don't see that being a problem for me. If it turns out to be a problem, I can re-do the panel with waterproof connectors or encase all the connections in clear silicon goo. Also, changing a fuse will be a real pain in the ***. Unfortunately, there isn't much room in the engine compartment for what I wanted to do and install options are rather limited. Hopefully, I will not need to change a fuse very often.
I've now re-wired my stock fogs to have an alternate switch, so I can turn them on when the headlights are off, or if the high-beams are on. I've eliminated all of the oddball wiring that came with my PIAA lights (relay, ignition tie-in, switch, etc.). I can turn them on at will as well. I've also improved the crappy wiring job the dealer did on the Mopar Remote Start (MRS) install, with respect to the wiring to the TIPM, wiring to the battery and the relay it uses. I can now turn on my reverse lights via a switch, in addition to having them come on automatically when in reverse (trailer reverse lights will do whatever the Jeep reverse lights are doing). I can now activate a trailer accessory (undefined at this time) via a switch on the switch panel.
With this switch panel now in place and my previous electrical work, I am now ready to install the Mopar 7-pin wiring harness, run my additional electrical wires to the rear, and install the trailer brake controller and its associated wiring. That will complete my immediate mod plans. Future plans include backup and forward cameras and an LCD pop-up screen for the cameras.
Total project cost info, excluding previous work that uses the panel, is about $200 as follows:
- (5) Cole Hersee Relays SPDT 40 A 12V RC-400112-NN $20.85
- (2) Bussman AMG 100/300A Fuse Holders $40.30
- (1) Blue Sea 12-space fuse box $50.00
- (2) FUSE 125A $13.70
- (1) Cole Hersey 30062-20 Circuit Breaker, 12V 20A Type 1 $19.47
- (2) Diodes, NTE5812 $3.13
- (6) Plated Wire Lugs, 8GA $2.70
- (1) 18"x24" Plexiglass (a lot left over) $14.84
- (1) set of stainless steel hardware $10.00 (est.)
- (1) set of misc wires (not including harnesses) $10.00 (est.)
- (1) set of misc. wire connectors $10.00 (est.)
- (1) set of assorted fuses $10.00 (est.)
FWIW, the wiring harness I made for the 5 switch panel cost about $20 in wiring and related materials.
The reverse light solution was under $25.
The fog light switch mod was under $5 in miscellaneous wiring materials plus the cost of the new yellow bulbs ($25, plus $6 shipping).
The garage door opener mod was about $15 in wiring materials ($10 for the reed switch).
The CoolTech switch panel with switches was $85 (plus $12 shipping).
The Mopar 7-pin wiring harness was about $80 from the local dealer (they had 1 in stock).
The Tekonsha P3 electric brake controller was about $145 (with shipping).
Additional Install Info:
Panel is held in via friction. There is plenty of it - it's not going anywhere. It's of course also secured to the battery via the cables, but that's not really the primary mechanism for holding it in place (:
Panel plexiglass base is 8x11 inches.
The silver tape you see is Shureflex SF-683. It's a heat resistant tape, good for 200F. Under that in most places is the standard plastic split tunnel stuff, which is rated for 250F.
14GA on all wires, except 10GA on lines connecting to battery and line from 125A fuse to fuse box.
Switch Panel Relay Bank info:
Switch Relays: Cole Hersee SPDT 40A 12V # RC-400-112-NN
Mopar Remote Start (MRS) Relay Info:
Tyco V23134-A1052-C643 12V -+06191
As configured during dealer install (which was a crappy job):
Green from cabin: 85, Gray to TIPM: 30, Red to Battery: 86/87,20A fuse
125A Fuse Holder:
Bussman (rated for 300A)
Cole Hersee 30062-20 Type 1 Auto Resetting 20A
Trailer brake controller power wire. The P3 install instructions specifically call for a 20A type 1 circuit breaker.
1 MRS Relay 20A. Relay supplied by dealer install.
3 Garage Door Opener 10A. Genie hand-held unit, modified. See notes.
5 Rear 12v accessory outlet 20A. Will install outlet in cargo area.
7 Backup Camera XXA. Future modification/install.
9 Forward Camera XXA. Future modification/install.
11 LCD Screen (for cameras) XXA. Future modification/install.
2 Switch 5 (yellow wire to switch) Relay XXA. Reserved for future modification/install.
4 Switch 4 (red to wire to switch) Relay 20A. Mopar 7-pin trailer harness hot wire.
6 Switch 3 (blue wire to switch) Relay 20A. Bumper reverse lights, alternate trigger.
8 Switch 2 (green wire to switch) Relay 30A. PIAA Driving Lights.
10 Switch 1 (brown wire to switch) Relay 30A. Stock fog lights (see note below).
12 Power to switches (black wire) 10A. Switches in 5-way panel (see note below).
Fuse Box Line 3 Notes:
It's a total guess as to how many amps this unit draws. I can always change the fuse if I run into problems.
Fuse Box Line 6 Notes:
Install dual-diode segment, with one line connecting to this line and the other connecting to the tail light reverse line. Note that IF you are using high wattage custom reverse lights (mine are not high wattage) you should connect this wire and the stock tail light wire to a relay trigger pole, and then use the relay to trigger the lights (you'll need to run another power line from the battery for the relay, or try tapping off the one you already ran and connected to the trigger pole).
Fuse Box Line 10 Notes:
Relay activation input line (brown) splits into two, with an in-line diode on each. One end connects to switch #1
in switch panel. The second end connects to the stock fog light wiring switch, via the load line to the right
Fuse Box Line 12 Notes:
This line splits into 5 lines, with each one connecting to a a switch power line in the switch panel wiring
harness (in the engine area). I could have run one power line into the cabin, and then split into 5 just
before the switch panel. This would have saved wire and made a smaller harness - but I didn't do it this way.
Wires to run to rear of Jeep:
1). Mopar 7-pin hot wire (existing wiring harness) Red (fuse box #4)
2). Mopar 7-pin Trailer Brake Wire (existing wiring harness) Blue (brake controller)
3). Mopar 7-pin Ground (existing wiring harness) White (fuse box #4)
4). Bumper Reverse Lights Yellow (fuse box #6)
5). 12v accessory outlet Green (fuse box #5)
6). Backup Camera Brown (fuse box #7)
7). Ground White (fuse box ground)
See attached. 5 in this post, 5 in the next post, 4 in the post after that.