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Unread 07-23-2013, 02:47 PM   #1
mrangelo
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Confusion about towing

Hi Guys,

I have a Unlimited Rubicon 2010 and i want to buy a Travel Trailer, the best option that i found is from the people of Livin Lite (Camp Lite) because they make a 2,700 pounds trailer that works for my needs, the Jeep website say that my Rubicon can handle up to 3,500 pounds and the Trailer with the 2,700 + 528 in Water Tanks + 75 with A/C + 100 of an awning go to 3,403, in other words i just have 97 pounds less than the maximun.

My 2 questions are:

1- Is this 2500 Max critical? or maybe i can go to 2,530, 2,560, etc? need to be exactly 3,500?

2- This is the towing capacity but how about the things inside the Jeep? we are only 3 passengers (2 adults and a 10 month baby), maybe i can carry the food, clothes, etc inside the Jeep? i dont find how many pounds i can carry inside the Jeep AT THE SAME TIME when towing.

Im trying to make magic to continue use my Jeep and no need to sell it to find another vehicle that can carry a Travel Trailer

Thanks in advance for any help and advice.

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Unread 07-23-2013, 03:33 PM   #2
jchappy
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You do not want to exceed 8431 GCWR (for unlimited Rubicon w\auto)
If your trailer is already at 3400lbs +- your going to be over weight
The problem is not towing it, it's stopping it. With a 10mo old i wouldn't chance it
If your in any type of accident your insurance won't pay if they find out your over 8431 GCWR.
If you do get it you will need trailer brakes
Best way to see real #'s is load everyone up that your going to take and go to a truck weight station then add that 3400lbs plus a few hundred pounds for camping gear

A class 2 hitch is only rated at 3500lbs so you will also need a class 3 hitch if you don't have one already
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Unread 07-23-2013, 05:32 PM   #3
rayder1
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One trick I did with our motorhomes and horse trailers was to hold off on carrying water in the tanks. If possible, water up at the camp site or as close as possible to the site to minimize your travel weight. I had a class a motorhome and 3 horse trailer with 50 gallons water (417lbs plus or minus and 20 gallons on the trailer (167 lbs plus or minus). 8.35 lbs x gallons.

It really made a difference in a big rig like that but the difference in stopping power and mpg is exponentially different on a jeep/ trailer combo.
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Unread 07-23-2013, 08:10 PM   #4
Filthy-Beast
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When you weight your jeep with people and a full tank look at the door sticker for GVWR number, this is the max it can weight. Now subtract actual weight from the GVWR. This will be the max cargo you can carry. the trailer will transfer weight to the jeep, called tongue weight typically you want 10 to 15% of the trailer's total to be on the tongue. that 10% of trailer weight counts as cargo in the jeep and further reduce what you can carry.

a 2013 has a cargo capacity of 892#, now minus gas, two adults, kids and tongue weight. you're probably near it without any gear. depend on size of the people. that does not leave you a lot room for cargo. If you don't pull with water in the tanks you'll have a lot more headroom and easier time towing. I'd strongly suggest a proportional brake controller and weight distribution hitch with anti-sway, constant centering is better than friction anti-sway.
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13 JKUR Build thread

For Sale: 2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks

97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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Unread 07-23-2013, 09:42 PM   #5
mrangelo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jchappy View Post
You do not want to exceed 8431 GCWR (for unlimited Rubicon w\auto)
If your trailer is already at 3400lbs +- your going to be over weight
The problem is not towing it, it's stopping it. With a 10mo old i wouldn't chance it
If your in any type of accident your insurance won't pay if they find out your over 8431 GCWR.
If you do get it you will need trailer brakes
Best way to see real #'s is load everyone up that your going to take and go to a truck weight station then add that 3400lbs plus a few hundred pounds for camping gear

A class 2 hitch is only rated at 3500lbs so you will also need a class 3 hitch if you don't have one already
Thanks a lot for the response, thanks for the tip, i have a truck weight station about 30 minutes but i never imagine that i can weight or they can weight anything different than a truck
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Unread 07-23-2013, 09:45 PM   #6
mrangelo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rayder1 View Post
One trick I did with our motorhomes and horse trailers was to hold off on carrying water in the tanks. If possible, water up at the camp site or as close as possible to the site to minimize your travel weight. I had a class a motorhome and 3 horse trailer with 50 gallons water (417lbs plus or minus and 20 gallons on the trailer (167 lbs plus or minus). 8.35 lbs x gallons.

It really made a difference in a big rig like that but the difference in stopping power and mpg is exponentially different on a jeep/ trailer combo.
my intentions are going to 90% of the time to camp sites that have facilities like water but maybe one day i will want to go to remote place
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Unread 07-23-2013, 09:50 PM   #7
mrangelo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast View Post
When you weight your jeep with people and a full tank look at the door sticker for GVWR number, this is the max it can weight. Now subtract actual weight from the GVWR. This will be the max cargo you can carry. the trailer will transfer weight to the jeep, called tongue weight typically you want 10 to 15% of the trailer's total to be on the tongue. that 10% of trailer weight counts as cargo in the jeep and further reduce what you can carry.

a 2013 has a cargo capacity of 892#, now minus gas, two adults, kids and tongue weight. you're probably near it without any gear. depend on size of the people. that does not leave you a lot room for cargo. If you don't pull with water in the tanks you'll have a lot more headroom and easier time towing. I'd strongly suggest a proportional brake controller and weight distribution hitch with anti-sway, constant centering is better than friction anti-sway.
Im totally new in this (Campers, Travel Trailers, RV's, etc), the Travel Trailers dont come with brakes for default? maybe this is something expensive to install right?

well, after all of your comments and some research i thing that i forget a Travel Trailer and go with a Popup Camper, im totally disagree to change my Rubicon for other car
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Unread 07-24-2013, 04:00 AM   #8
Filthy-Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrangelo View Post
Im totally new in this (Campers, Travel Trailers, RV's, etc), the Travel Trailers dont come with brakes for default? maybe this is something expensive to install right?

well, after all of your comments and some research i thing that i forget a Travel Trailer and go with a Popup Camper, im totally disagree to change my Rubicon for other car
A popup is a fine choice. I towed one for years, the big ones can still get up there in weight. the trailer will have brakes, but you need to add the controller to your jeep that will signal the trailer when to apply the brakes. The anti-sway hitch attaches to the trailer.

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...ID=1655&part=0

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13 JKUR Build thread

For Sale: 2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks

97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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Unread 07-24-2013, 06:04 AM   #9
Deuskid
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There are a number of threads with 'mini' trailer builds on small trailer frames. Here are a couple of examples:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bo...l#post15711607

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...6/index48.html

I've read about 1/2 dozen different builds and I don't believe any of them express a need for trailer brakes, weight distribution or anti-sway devices [the 10% tongue weight rule is mentioned often].

Is it safe to assume, that because of their size/weight, none of these additional precautions are needed?

Thanks,

john
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Unread 07-24-2013, 09:21 AM   #10
Godholio
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrangelo View Post
Thanks a lot for the response, thanks for the tip, i have a truck weight station about 30 minutes but i never imagine that i can weight or they can weight anything different than a truck
Yup, just pull onto the scale (one axle per section) and push the call button. It'll cost you about $10. In the military, this is how you find out how much you're hauling if you're doing a DITY (do it yourself) move from one base to another...weigh without, weigh with stuff, submit both receipts (you get two copies each time you weigh) and get paid per lb/per mile. I crammed 600 lbs of stuff into my 2-dr last year.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 09:37 AM   #11
Filthy-Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuskid View Post
There are a number of threads with 'mini' trailer builds on small trailer frames. Here are a couple of examples:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/bo...l#post15711607

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/m...6/index48.html

I've read about 1/2 dozen different builds and I don't believe any of them express a need for trailer brakes, weight distribution or anti-sway devices [the 10% tongue weight rule is mentioned often].

Is it safe to assume, that because of their size/weight, none of these additional precautions are needed?

Thanks,

john
Correct. States vary at what weight trailer brakes are required. Once you get above about 1500# they are a very good idea. Jeep brakes aren't the best to begin with and now you asking them to stop an extra 1500#. Anti-sway gets more important as weight and size increase. Small trailer follows the jeep easily. Big heavy trailer catches a strong wind, semi passes or you swerver and the tail can be wagging the dog.
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13 JKUR Build thread

For Sale: 2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks

97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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Unread 07-24-2013, 10:18 AM   #12
Yendor
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jchappy, are 10 month olds more valuable than other people? ...that was just a little joke.....
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Unread 07-24-2013, 11:56 AM   #13
jchappy
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Originally Posted by Yendor View Post
jchappy, are 10 month olds more valuable than other people? ...that was just a little joke.....
No they are not but they also have the choice to not get in an unsafe vehicle thats towing over it's limit

A 10 month doens't have that choice.......thats not a joke....
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MY OLD JEEP-1999 Wrangler Sport 4.0L, 4" Pro Comp Lift, 33" BFG's, 8K winch, SYE, Viking soft top, onboard CO2 and all the recovery straps and equipment
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Unread 07-24-2013, 12:03 PM   #14
Deuskid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast View Post
Correct. States vary at what weight trailer brakes are required. Once you get above about 1500# they are a very good idea. Jeep brakes aren't the best to begin with and now you asking them to stop an extra 1500#. Anti-sway gets more important as weight and size increase. Small trailer follows the jeep easily. Big heavy trailer catches a strong wind, semi passes or you swerver and the tail can be wagging the dog.
cool, by your "correct" that at 1500# and under, and given their size... no add'n items are needed.

Thanks,

John
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Unread 07-24-2013, 02:09 PM   #15
Filthy-Beast
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuskid View Post
cool, by your "correct" that at 1500# and under, and given their size... no add'n items are needed.

Thanks,

John
That is my opinion, the law varies by state. lL requires brakes on anything over 3000#, NY requires on anything over 1000#. You need to double check the law for your state.
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13 JKUR Build thread

For Sale: 2013 4dr JK Painted black Hard Top JKUR 18/59 springs and shocks

97 TJ: daughter 1 - 2.5L, Auto, 2" BB, 31" GY Duratrac
98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
13 JKU Rubicon: Wife's for now, Ace Rock rails & rear bumper tire carrier, Truck Lites, MC Game changer 3.5 lift, RR skids, PSC Brawler front bumper, Warn 9.5cti-s, 35" GY MTRs
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