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Unread 12-21-2010, 05:24 PM   #46
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Are you turning on the headlights when testing the battery voltage? I usually turn on high beams and test the voltage at the cigarette lighter socket. That gives me an idea of the condition of the battery connection as well...corrosion may happen anywhere in the battery cables and may not be readily visible.
Turning ON the high beams should cause only a minimal drop in voltage, maybe 0.5-0.75V.

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Unread 12-21-2010, 05:35 PM   #47
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Yes I did with the headlights on but not at the cigarette lighter socket. I also had my son try to start it while I had the voltmeter connected and no voltage drop was observed.

Besides using a digital voltmeter, I also do it the old fashion way by trying to start with the headlights on. It used to be that if they dimmed considerably or went out altogether the battery or connections were bad.
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Unread 12-21-2010, 08:09 PM   #48
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click like...the starter control relay or CLICK! like the starter solenoid? if it is "click" then the starter control relay in the TIPM is probably sick.
If "CLICK" then it's either the solenoid or direct batt power is not coming to the starter's big screw terminal.
not much else can make noise and no go.
The wire on the left hand side of the pic, marked A TO C100 is the thinner wire going to the starter solenoid.
If "FUSE 15" is not blown (and it isn't b/c it starts sometimes) then, if "RELAY-STARTER" is energized, the starter should turn over the engine.
starter-relay-copy.jpg   relay-copy.jpg  

Last edited by motor_car; 12-21-2010 at 08:10 PM.. Reason: typos
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Unread 12-21-2010, 08:55 PM   #49
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Thanks motor_car so much for the schematics. I printed them out and will try to make since of them.
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Unread 12-21-2010, 11:26 PM   #50
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Well I tested the two solenoids in the TIP Box and they are both good. Iím just wondering if itís actually the battery. I recall having a similar problem with my last TJ. I had a dual battery setup then so it would always start. If I remember correctly one of the two Blue Top Optimaís (starting batt) would leak down voltage over time. It didnít take much of a voltage drop to have a no start with the TJ. It seemed odd to me but thatís how the starting system worked.

Too further my suspicions, it seems that when I leave the battery charger on for a few minutes I can start my Jeep. I always check the batt. voltage before I hook up the charger and itís always around 12.6 volts.

When I go to start it with the charger itís between 13 and 14+ volts.

Does anyone know what the battery voltage has to drop to for a no start on the JKís?
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Unread 12-22-2010, 04:44 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Return View Post
A few Things to Check:

Battery terminals, they sell replacements at Autozone etc and they are only $4 you only need very basic tools to replace them. My positive terminal was 70% corroded away when my Jeep was only 16 months old.

The battery may have 12.5V - 13V until you put a load on it... Put a VOM on it then flip the Headlights and see if it drops to 9-10V if it does, your battery may be toast.
This wouldn't neccesarily mean the battery is toast it would mean the alternator isn't putting out enough juice to keep the battery charged.

This time of year if you are running at night with the heater blasting and lights on the load can be fairly significant. With everything on (wipers, heater fans, etc) you should still be reading above 12v. With no load it should be around 13-14v.

Did you try jumping it with one lead connected to a solid ground? If I remember right it's a very common problem with any vehicle. (bad ground)
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Unread 12-22-2010, 09:24 AM   #52
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Did you try jumping it with one lead connected to a solid ground? If I remember right it's a very common problem with any vehicle. (bad ground)
Iíve always jumped started vehicles with the cables hooked directly to the battery. Next time Iíll give it a try.

I think Iím done with Optima batteries, blue top for sure. Out of 4 of them 3 only lasted maybe a year or two at best. I think Iíll give the Odyssey a try.
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Unread 12-22-2010, 10:12 AM   #53
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I'd lean towards the battery. It may have a failed cell inside. Often a battery with a bad cell will show 12 volts but it will only have 1-200 CCA's which is nowhere near enough amperage to start a vehicle. Take the battery to a shop with a good battery tester and they should be able to test it.

EDIT: especially if the failed cell is in the middle and not directly connected to the posts, seen a few false readings from that.
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Unread 12-22-2010, 11:26 AM   #54
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^^^Good idea just might try that. Thanks.
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Unread 12-22-2010, 11:30 AM   #55
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Hope you get the rig going. I installed the Optima Yellow top (even though it was not the right specification according to Optima web site). It is something like a D34/78??? It fits right in. And it does great; so far.

I understand the Optima Blue is for the long slow drain (like marine use, golf cart use or camper use)? The yellow top is for hard bouncing &tc.
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Unread 12-28-2010, 05:52 PM   #56
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Update:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrvn5 View Post
I'd lean towards the battery. It may have a failed cell inside. Often a battery with a bad cell will show 12 volts but it will only have 1-200 CCA's which is nowhere near enough amperage to start a vehicle. Take the battery to a shop with a good battery tester and they should be able to test it.

EDIT: especially if the failed cell is in the middle and not directly connected to the posts, seen a few false readings from that.
I took your advice and you were right. Thanks. I think itís fixed for sure this time.

I had a load test done and my battery was only pushing 234 cca amps instead of 750. The actual battery voltage with no load was 12.68 volts and that was what was puzzling me.

I replaced my Optima Blue Top with a Sears DieHard Marine Battery, Platinum PM-2 - Group Size 34Mwich is actually an Odyssey with Searsís name instead of Odyssey.

Evidently when I earlier posted that when I removed the CPS plug and reinstalled it the Jeep started (which it did) and that that was the problem I was wrong. I sure hope I havenít spoken too soon again. I doubt it though since my battery was bad.
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Unread 12-28-2010, 07:13 PM   #57
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Glad to hear you got it solved! You're not the first person to get stranded by an Optima and probably won't be the last.
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Unread 08-18-2011, 09:47 AM   #58
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Sorry to revive an old thread but I too have fallen victim to the issue. Removed starter and had it tested; failed. Replaced with OEM starter, worked fine a couple times, then happened again. The neutral start procedure worked so I purchased a new neutral safety switch from O'Reillys. Where is the switch located? Help!
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Unread 08-18-2011, 10:02 AM   #59
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Sorry to hear of your problems, it is frustrating to say the least. Iím not sure exactly were it is but I know others do and will chime in. Good luck.
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Unread 08-18-2011, 12:58 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FireMedic5110 View Post
...Where is the switch located? Help!
The Transmission Range Sensor is located inside of the transmission. According to the FSM you have to remove the valve body to get to it.
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