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post #31 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JLC08JK View Post
In your research have you found this problem connected at all with a manual transmission?
Just curious for future reference.
Glad to hear that you got it up and running.
Well there were some with manuals that chimed in on that 46-page thread but I really don’t recall if it was the exact same problem. Some were referring to long crank times before their Jeep would start which is a different matter all together. I’ll try to find that thread and post the link here. Lots of different causes.


EDIT: I found it. Here it is. Problem with Jeep Not Starting - Click/No Start issue

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post #32 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 02:18 PM
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Thanks John
The more reference material we have in this forum the better.
I am adding this thread to the F.A.Q. in the trouble shooting section.
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post #33 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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That will be great. Just when you think you’ve heard all the crap that can go wrong with our Jeeps something else pops up.
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post #34 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by grim-reaper View Post
On two occasions I have gotten the click. And a combination of #2 and #3 got it started. Actually I did #2 a couple times combined with a lot of jiggling of the shifter once in Park.
Sounds like you have the "official" click no start problem - like I have (hopefully had). The symptoms are: when you try to start you hear a click and nothing else happens, but if you move your shifter - to Neutral, Neutral to Park, or push up on it, then it will start.

If you are under warrantee you should try to get the Transmission Range Sensor replaced. If not you can try to live with it or try the better ground solution. I've read where others have had this problem for years... I've only had it for 6 months.

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AEV Pintlers, BFG KM2s 35x12.50x17, Bulldog Fab Stubby Bump, Currie F/R Adj Trac Bars, Daystar Upper Dash, FireStik FireFly antenna, Kilby Rear Shock Skids, LoD Sig Stubby Bump, Midland 75-822 CB, Mopar Filler Door & Locking Gas Cap, Rancho LCA Skids, Rancho Oil Pan Armor, Riddler Diff Covers, custom Rubi Sliders, Sylvania X-treme Headlights, TeraFlex 2.5" Spring Lift, Warn PowerPlant HD, Woods Evap Can Relo, Woods SS Relo, Yukon 5.38s
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post #35 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 03:18 PM
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Woo, Hoo!! Way to go! Saved you a trip to the dealer and probably about 300$...
So what exactly does the crank position sensor do?
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post #36 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe002 View Post
Sounds like you have the "official" click no start problem - like I have (hopefully had). The symptoms are: when you try to start you hear a click and nothing else happens, but if you move your shifter - to Neutral, Neutral to Park, or push up on it, then it will start.

If you are under warrantee you should try to get the Transmission Range Sensor replaced. If not you can try to live with it or try the better ground solution. I've read where others have had this problem for years... I've only had it for 6 months.
I am still under warranty, and this is good advice. I'll give it a go.
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post #37 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by grim-reaper View Post
I am still under warranty, and this is good advice. I'll give it a go.
If it turns out you really need a better ground then the fix is relatively easy - you could do it in your garage. The Range Sensor fix is a lot more complicated and expensive, so you really want to get it done under warrantee. Hopefully your dealer knows about this problem and will just do it without having to see it first. You need to tell them when you get the click no start you can always start it by shifting to Neutral. BTW - when they are in there ask them to replace the filter. They should do it for just the cost of the filter (no labor since they’ll be in there anyway).

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post #38 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Woo, Hoo!! Way to go! Saved you a trip to the dealer and probably about 300$...
So what exactly does the crank position sensor do?
It tells the computer where the crankshaft is in it rotation so that the computer will fire the spark plug at the correct time among other things.
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post #39 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 06:39 PM
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It seems to be any number or combination of things causing the ‘click no start’ condition. I never knew how wide spread the problem was until it happened to me.
Hey 1222,Is this problem with auto-trans only ?
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post #40 of 79 Old 12-19-2010, 09:28 PM Thread Starter
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Hey 1222,Is this problem with auto-trans only ?
I’m not sure. It seemed like there where a lot more people with autos chiming in than manuals. There are now 47 pages to that thread as of this post and I’m not about to go over it again. Try the link I posted 3 posts up from this one were it says “EDIT:” and you can check it out. You might want to have a snack to munch on to keep you awake though.
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post #41 of 79 Old 12-20-2010, 04:44 AM
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It tells the computer where the crankshaft is in it rotation so that the computer will fire the spark plug at the correct time among other things.
Got it, I've replaced a few of them, but always thought they were called Cam Position sensors...
Why would this keep it from starting??

Weird, but a good one for the files.

My old Sierra did this same thing many, many times and it always ended up being a crappy connection on one of the battery cables, but it had sideposts, which I completely despise...
In the Army, we were constantly cleaning and greasing out battery terminals and cables to keep this from happening..
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post #42 of 79 Old 12-21-2010, 01:39 AM Thread Starter
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Another Update

Well crap, it happened again. Luckily I was in my Garage this time. When I said in an earlier post above that I hoped it wasn’t just coincidence that it worked the first time, well I guess it was after all. I unplugged the CPS this time around but it didn’t help.

I checked my battery voltage and it was fine, never the less I put a battery charger on it. After maybe 2-3 minutes I tried the CPS one more time just before I turned the key to make sure it still didn’t start. Then I turned the key and it fired right up like nothing was wrong.

I do have to say that when it worked the other day by re-plugging the CPS I did have the charger on the battery for a couple of hours prior to that.

So now I’m back to square one.
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post #43 of 79 Old 12-21-2010, 05:13 AM
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Sorry about the problems that you are having, I'm keeping an eye on similar threads over at WF to see if there's anything that might help you...good luck.

-- Joel --
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post #44 of 79 Old 12-21-2010, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Sorry about the problems that you are having, I'm keeping an eye on similar threads over at WF to see if there's anything that might help you...good luck.
Thanks krutj I really appreciate it because I’m stumped. Back in the good old days you could always get your car/Jeep running one way or the other. These days with all the electronics well… Anyhow I just might get another battery for the heck of it.
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post #45 of 79 Old 12-21-2010, 02:59 PM
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Thanks krutj I really appreciate it because I’m stumped. Back in the good old days you could always get your car/Jeep running one way or the other. These days with all the electronics well… Anyhow I just might get another battery for the heck of it.
Just the other day, I was explaining to my son how the old cam driven fuel pumps worked and how easy they were to replace and get going again(without dropping the fuel tank!)

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