Check things after you lift...1 - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 61 Old 10-19-2010, 11:30 AM
JLC08JK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unknown303 View Post
Awesome thread! I'm actually just posting so it's easier to find when I get my 35s
This thread along with allot of other pertinent threads have link's located in the F.A.Q.

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post #32 of 61 Old 10-22-2010, 10:03 AM
taoshum
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Even if you don't lift, I saw this triangle of metal sticking out in the rear wheel wells and decided it might cut the tires so I used a small right angle composite blade on the grinder to cut it down. I also installed some more rubber matting to block mud from getting between the bottom front of the fender and the "running board". I guess I need to back caulk the metal with a clear silicone caulk.

Then I found this thread. thanks.

Geezer from NM
"Wisdom isn't cheap; we pay for it with pain
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post #33 of 61 Old 10-22-2010, 12:45 PM
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I too thankyou.Very helpful info.
I noticed that sticking into the wheel well and it seems bizzar that it was that far back to begin with. Anyway, the only thing I would (will) do different, is, I would never use silicon caulk. It will seperate from the metal and you will have a rust problem. As thick as they are, it won't cause damage, it'll just be ugly. I will use 3M - 4200, black caulk. It will stay stuck forever.

2010 Rubicon, 4" lift, Currie control arms and trackbar, 40" Procomp MTR
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post #34 of 61 Old 10-22-2010, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
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^^^ You like black caulk?
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post #35 of 61 Old 10-22-2010, 02:16 PM
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I wouldn't use caulk (I don't like it)
I would use Bondo or epoxy putty
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post #36 of 61 Old 10-23-2010, 06:27 AM
Joevacs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1222 View Post
^^^ You like black caulk?
I like 3M 4200 as aposed to silicon caulk. It only comes in white or black. It's made for boats, and will stay stuck in the worst conditions.

2010 Rubicon, 4" lift, Currie control arms and trackbar, 40" Procomp MTR
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post #37 of 61 Old 11-02-2010, 01:49 PM
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I would weld it closed, grind and smooth it, paint, done. Than I would never have to mess with it again. Also 1222 great write up!!
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post #38 of 61 Old 11-02-2010, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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That would be fine but just in case you don’t know, in order to weld it up you would have to remove all the coating that is applied at the factory not only to the outside but also the inside in order to weld up the gap. If you didn’t then you would end up with a weld that looked like Swiss Cheese at best. As long as the inside gap is cleaned with lacquer thinner silicon will work just fine and it should last forever or there about.

Thanks for the complement.
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post #39 of 61 Old 01-13-2011, 07:32 PM
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Great writeup. I am thankful everyday for this forum. What the hell did people do before the internet!!!!!!!!
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post #40 of 61 Old 01-13-2011, 07:42 PM
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Dude you rock

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- 42x14.50 MTR's, Custom Cage, FF D60's F/R w/ ARB's and 5.38's, 4 Link Rear, 3 Link Front, 14" RR King 2.5's, 18" RR Fox 2.5's, Fox Air Bumps
- 108" wheel base
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post #41 of 61 Old 01-13-2011, 08:10 PM
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This was a really clearly informative write up. Thanks for the great clear pictures as well.


Jc

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post #42 of 61 Old 01-13-2011, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys I really appreciate it.
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post #43 of 61 Old 04-05-2011, 08:55 PM
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Would a hack saw produce the same clean cut?
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post #44 of 61 Old 04-06-2011, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Sure it would, just follow the line you make. If need be then a metal file would work to smooth things out. I wouldn’t really worry about it too much though. Just cut the pinch seam slightly shorter than the Rock Rails and nobody will ever notice.
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post #45 of 61 Old 07-19-2011, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1222 View Post
^^^ You like black caulk?
OK...10 months later, but I appreciate your joke, even though no one else made mention of it.....

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checklist , clearance , issues , JK Wrangler , lift , pinch seam , problems after lift , wrangler

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