Even if you don't lift, I saw this triangle of metal sticking out in the rear wheel wells and decided it might cut the tires so I used a small right angle composite blade on the grinder to cut it down. I also installed some more rubber matting to block mud from getting between the bottom front of the fender and the "running board". I guess I need to back caulk the metal with a clear silicone caulk.
Then I found this thread. thanks.
Geezer from NM
"Wisdom isn't cheap; we pay for it with pain
I too thankyou.Very helpful info.
I noticed that sticking into the wheel well and it seems bizzar that it was that far back to begin with. Anyway, the only thing I would (will) do different, is, I would never use silicon caulk. It will seperate from the metal and you will have a rust problem. As thick as they are, it won't cause damage, it'll just be ugly. I will use 3M - 4200, black caulk. It will stay stuck forever.
2010 Rubicon, 4" lift, Currie control arms and trackbar, 40" Procomp MTR
That would be fine but just in case you don’t know, in order to weld it up you would have to remove all the coating that is applied at the factory not only to the outside but also the inside in order to weld up the gap. If you didn’t then you would end up with a weld that looked like Swiss Cheese at best. As long as the inside gap is cleaned with lacquer thinner silicon will work just fine and it should last forever or there about.
2009 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon (6mt) (in progress)
- 42x14.50 MTR's, Custom Cage, FF D60's F/R w/ ARB's and 5.38's, 4 Link Rear, 3 Link Front, 14" RR King 2.5's, 18" RR Fox 2.5's, Fox Air Bumps
- 108" wheel base
Sure it would, just follow the line you make. If need be then a metal file would work to smooth things out. I wouldn’t really worry about it too much though. Just cut the pinch seam slightly shorter than the Rock Rails and nobody will ever notice.