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post #1 of Old 04-01-2010, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
plac
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Changed front and rear end fluids on 2007 Sahara

My 2007 Sahara with 16,800 miles has Dana 30 front and Dana 44 rear. Purchased 4 quarts Mobil 1 75W-90 synthetic gear lube. It also says "LS" on the bottle which means limited slip. You do NOT need to add any additives to this. I used about 3.1-3.2 quarts total, mainly because the bottle pump wouldnt quite grab the last 1/8 of each bottle. I can probably drain all my leftovers into 1 bottle and have a full bottle left.

(Thinking about doing the transfer case next, per the ATF in the backround. But I suppose I should get synthetic ATF if I'm going to all the trouble.. The manual transmission will be last, with that super pesky bolt design requiring the shortened 17mm allen key. Anyone know where to just buy a tool that will work outright?)



Dana 44 rear draining out. You can see both the drain hole and the fill hole:



You can see my drain plug magnet and what it came out like:






2015 Subaru WRX

Last edited by plac; 04-02-2010 at 06:47 AM.
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post #2 of Old 04-01-2010, 08:01 PM
No_Return
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I think most if not all ATF is synthetic these days.

Thanks for the Write up. I need to do this soon.

One does not establish a dictatorship in order to safeguard a revolution; one makes a revolution in order to establish a dictatorship. - Orwell
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post #3 of Old 04-01-2010, 08:04 PM
gwar11d2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Return View Post
I think most if not all ATF is synthetic these days.

Thanks for the Write up. I need to do this soon.
I have to do this too. I _think_ I know the answer, but to fill up the diff, don't you just fill it to the bottom of the fill hole? (before it starts coming out)

...and then, the four quarts covered everything?

I can't believe how much they charge for this at the dealer. You pretty much don't even have to jack up the vehicle...

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post #4 of Old 04-01-2010, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gwar11d2 View Post
I have to do this too. I _think_ I know the answer, but to fill up the diff, don't you just fill it to the bottom of the fill hole? (before it starts coming out)

...and then, the four quarts covered everything?

I can't believe how much they charge for this at the dealer. You pretty much don't even have to jack up the vehicle...
3 quarts would have covered everything really.. invest in the $10 bottle pump, it cuts the time in half. fill it till it starts slowly pouring down the side, then screw in the plug. doesnt have to be exact, not like it covers the gears. They just sit in it and when they turn it coats the fluid. I wiped the plugs with red sticky high-tack sealer just for good measure.

didnt jack up anything.

2015 Subaru WRX
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post #5 of Old 04-01-2010, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
plac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No_Return View Post
I think most if not all ATF is synthetic these days.

Thanks for the Write up. I need to do this soon.
I found the basic Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. Thats what I'll buy in a day or two, so i can do my transfer case.

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post #6 of Old 04-01-2010, 09:44 PM
Seanbmc
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May be a dumb question, but can you just take the old diff fluid to a place like autozone and dump in their big oil reservoir? I need to do my diffs, overdue.

2009 Black Unlimited.
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post #7 of Old 04-02-2010, 05:54 AM
twenty10JK
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Oil is oil... diffs, tranny, engine... when you're recycling...
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post #8 of Old 04-02-2010, 05:08 PM Thread Starter
plac
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My curbside recyclying takes a max of 5 gallons every other week.

UPDATE:

Just finished changing my transfer case fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Pretty much exactly 2 quarts. Again, I dabbled into my 3rd quart just so my pump could keep sucking, but it really only used 1.9 quarts, because I have 1.1 quarts left out of 3 purchased.

Job was simple after removing the rock sheild which is just 4 bolts. Fill and drain both used a 10mm allen socket. Not much comes out (obviously, mentioned above). Filled up until it was a steady pour down to a slow drip, then capped it. The old ATF was still clear like new at 17k miles. Aw well, peace of mind I guess.

Now I need to do the manual transmission. The one I really been dreading.. Anyone know if that uses the same Mobil 1 75W-90 I used for my rear ends or if I have to use something different? I dont have a die grinder so its gonna be tough to make my own stubby 17mm allen tool to drain it.

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post #9 of Old 04-02-2010, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE AGAIN:

Just finished changing my manual transmission fluid. Bought the last 2 bottles of Royal Purple Synchromax synthetic oil. The price was double the Pennzoil, but i went 100% synthetic on everything else so I didn't want to skimp on just one part. Used less than 2 quarts. Maybe 1.8-1.9 quarts and my pump tool worked to pump all of it. Lucky I decided not to drive that extra 45 mins to find 1 more quart somewhere.. You dont need 3... I actually threw out the last 1/8 of a quart. (Into my used oil).

Made my own custom tool for the 2007 JK in 5 mins. Found a bolt that was 17mm head. Screwed 2 nuts onto it. Cut off almost all the remainder. That took 20 mins with my blunt hacksaw. Hammered the tip hard to stop the nuts from coming off. Worked like butter. The nut might twist a bit when removing, but it just bites into the crushed flange and then starts working. Putting it back in is nothing, as you are tightening the screws onto your tool instead.






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post #10 of Old 04-06-2010, 05:45 PM Thread Starter
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Fair disclosure. I put oem fluid back in my manual trans. I just didnt like the feel of the synchros w royal purple. so i bought 2 new mopar quarts and did the job again today. since the tool was already made, only about 15 mins work this time.

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post #11 of Old 04-07-2010, 07:05 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plac View Post
Fair disclosure. I put oem fluid back in my manual trans. I just didnt like the feel of the synchros w royal purple. so i bought 2 new mopar quarts and did the job again today. since the tool was already made, only about 15 mins work this time.
confirmed for sure. my personal experience. the tranny now shifts way better since i went back to oem fluid. as far as pushing it into gears and taking it out. less sticky, less resistance with oem fluid.

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post #12 of Old 04-07-2010, 08:30 AM
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Did you use 3 qts. on each axle? Or was that total for both?
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post #13 of Old 04-07-2010, 08:33 AM Thread Starter
plac
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fan45acp View Post
Did you use 3 qts. on each axle? Or was that total for both?
thats both. the D44 uses about 2 and the D30 uses about 1.

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post #14 of Old 04-07-2010, 03:10 PM
fan45acp
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Quote:
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thats both. the D44 uses about 2 and the D30 uses about 1.
Thanks plac.........J.H.
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post #15 of Old 04-09-2010, 07:30 PM
gwar11d2
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Thanks plac! Did mine today and your write-up helped. I bought 4 quarts + the pump but only used 3. I figure next time I just need to buy two quarts. Man the rear was pretty nasty and the front was still fairly clear... I guess that tells you how much I have it in 4-wheel-drive... Wish it was more, but work has really gotten rid of my play time as of late. Didn't do my transfercase. I'm going to do that next time I do the oil change.

09 JK Jeep Green Sahara Unlimited / Teraflex 2.5" Spring-Shocks / 35's x 16" Level 8 Trackers/ Aussie Locker Front / 5:13's
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