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Unread 04-23-2010, 03:52 PM   #31
ncb
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Just my personal oppinion, but I wouldn't go higher than an D rated tire. E will be stiffer and heavier.

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Unread 04-23-2010, 07:35 PM   #32
juiceparn
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Two schools of thought on the load range. I much prefer C rated tires because my Jeep only weighs just over 4000 lbs. Run what you like but I feel like I get the benefit of airing down with more air in my tires with the "c" tire. I also don't wheel where rocks rip up tires so I can't speak to the wear or durability when compared to an E rated tire.
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Unread 04-24-2010, 12:19 AM   #33
lotus03
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emailed Nitto to ask them if they could help me on which Trail Grappler could work with my 17" x 7.5" stock wheels and 3.5" lift

i think the tire i was looking at might be too wide even with spacers - i might be screwed on plan to use the stock wheels - already found painter i was gonna use.....

Last edited by lotus03; 04-24-2010 at 01:21 AM..
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Unread 04-24-2010, 12:20 AM   #34
lotus03
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Originally Posted by juiceparn View Post
Two schools of thought on the load range. I much prefer C rated tires because my Jeep only weighs just over 4000 lbs. Run what you like but I feel like I get the benefit of airing down with more air in my tires with the "c" tire. I also don't wheel where rocks rip up tires so I can't speak to the wear or durability when compared to an E rated tire.
What if you end up making the Jeep heavier by adding bumper and winch etc?
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Unread 04-24-2010, 06:07 AM   #35
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My "living" first phase mod plan updated (sleep deprived & slightly hungover)

stock 2009 2 door JK (s package) deepwater blue with 6000 miles.

1) EVO Enforcer 2.5 (w/ 2.5" Diameter EVO SPEC King Remote Reservoir Shocks)(this is 3.5" lift)

a) EVO Plush Coils combined with EVO SPEC 2.5" with Reservoir Shocks
b) Front Adjustable Lower Control Arms
c) Rear Roll Center correction trackbar bracket
d) Brake line Extensions
e) Front and Rear Bump stop Extension


2) Wheels:

Mickey Thompson SideBiterฎ Alloy Wheel - Bolt Pattern 5x5 Size 17x9 Backspacing 4.5

or Mickey Thompson Signature Series Classic II Alloy Wheel in Satin Black - Bolt Pattern 5x5 Size 17x9 Backspacing 4.5

or Mickey Thompson Signature Series Classic II Alloy Wheel in Satin Black - Bolt Pattern 5x5 Size 18x9 Backspacing 5


3) Tires:

Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Radial - 5275 - LT315/70R17 - 35X12.50R17 - OWL 121Q 68 D 3,195 50 8.5-10.0 9.5 11.9 9.8 34.6 19

or Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ Radial - 5290 - LT305/70R18 - 35X12.50R18 - OWL 126Q - 71 E 3,750 65 8.0-10.0 9 12.2 9.8 35.1 20.5

or Nitto trail grappler - 35x12.50R17 - LT E 121Q 205-730 21.0 34.84 13.19 8.5-(10.0)-11.0 3195@65 596

or Nitto trail grappler - 35x12.50R18 - LT E 123Q 205-700 21.0 35.04 13.39 8.5-(10.0)-11.0 3415@65 592

4) MBRP exhaust S5518 Black off road tail pipe, muffler before axle

5) re-gear from 3.73 to 5.13 – purchase Front and Rear Gears & Overhaul Kit Package

6) JKS rear upper control arms

7) JKS adjustable trackbars Front

8) JKS Rear Trackbar Brace

9) Tom Woods 1310 front & rear drive shafts (considering)

ouch.....

Rock On!

Last edited by lotus03; 04-25-2010 at 08:21 AM..
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Unread 04-25-2010, 10:19 AM   #36
lotus03
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thought of the day:

should i buy 17 inch wheels or should i buy 18's with my 3.5" lift
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Last edited by lotus03; 04-25-2010 at 01:03 PM.. Reason: noob
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Unread 04-25-2010, 01:27 PM   #37
lotus03
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Quote:
In all of your mods I did not see any mention for Skid Plates / armor. I'd make ROCK Rails #1 before anything else including tires. Only cost $200 - $700 and will save you several thousand in Body damage. Mine have taken several hard hits and so far still look almost new.

It only takes getting stuck on a (rock, tree stump, high centered on hard dirt etc) ONCE to seriously funk up your body and ruin your day, week, month.
thanks a lot
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Last edited by lotus03; 04-26-2010 at 01:37 PM..
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Unread 04-26-2010, 01:40 PM   #38
lotus03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2rock View Post
Just pointing out (and you may have already noticed)- the first tire size you listed is for an 18" wheel. The 2nd size is for a 17" wheel. The wheel you listed in #1 is a 17".

35" with 5.13 gears, automatic, is what I'm running now. I originally had 4.10 gears- it wasn't horrible. And I waited a full year before re-gearing. But now that I am re-geared, I recommend it.
N2rock, when you made the decision to re-gear you knew you would be giving up your warranty cliams. Was that a difficult decision for you?
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Unread 04-26-2010, 02:21 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus03 View Post
thought of the day:

should i buy 17 inch wheels or should i buy 18's with my 3.5" lift
what wheels do you have now? if you dont want to spend extra you can keep the stock 16" wheels. no problem with that

i would not get an 18" wheel. less tire choices and tires are more expensive. if you want new wheels 17" are a great wheel size. though 17" tires are a little bit more expensive than 16" wheels.

you dont have to worry about tire width and wheel width too much. i have 17x8.5 wheels and run 14.50" wide tires. i had 4.5" backspacing with no rub issues. though i had to change that to 3.5" when i had the rear coil-overs installed. you will be fine with a 17x9" wheel (4.5" BS) and 12.50" wide tires

im surprised you are going with evo and jks. why not get a complete kit like a Rock Krawler lift. i recommend any of their products. warranty is great, parts are beefy, smooth on highways and lots of flex off road. they really stand behind their products too. plus using one kit ensures everything works seamlessly together
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Last edited by Liquor; 04-26-2010 at 02:34 PM..
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Unread 04-26-2010, 02:26 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus03 View Post
What if you end up making the Jeep heavier by adding bumper and winch etc?
I think I'd have to add more than any bumper/winch/armor combination out there to make enough difference to make me wanna higher load rating. I was at a rock crawling event last weekend and most all of the buggies had C tires. When aired down they hold a bead much better and I only have to air down to about 15 PSI to get some great bulging. My wheeling buddy used D rated BFG's and he's at 10 PSI and his sidewalls hardly give at all. (he is in a heavily armored YJ)
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Unread 04-26-2010, 02:30 PM   #41
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thanks... my stock wheels are 17" and i'll probably by the mt sidebiters 17's. I'll check out rock krawler again but I like the company EVO and read a lot about King shocks. I'd love to have king shocks on my ride.
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Unread 04-26-2010, 02:35 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lotus03 View Post
thanks... my stock wheels are 17" and i'll probably by the mt sidebiters 17's. I'll check out rock krawler again but I like the company EVO and read a lot about King shocks. I'd love to have king shocks on my ride.
RK lifts can use Bilstien, King, or Walker Evans shocks.
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Unread 04-26-2010, 02:54 PM   #43
lotus03
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"Liquor"...LOL....thanks for your comments...juiceparn thanks also...probably get the c's or maybe D. I think the mickey thompsons are D and is best i can do.
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Unread 04-26-2010, 02:58 PM   #44
lotus03
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquor View Post
RK lifts can use Bilstien, King, or Walker Evans shocks.
you are saying that you dont like he concept of using different parts from different vendors and assembling it - that going with one company is definitely better? why not cherry pick and make it the way you want??
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Last edited by lotus03; 04-26-2010 at 08:25 PM..
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Unread 04-26-2010, 08:29 PM   #45
lotus03
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i wonder if a basic teraflex leveling kit (gives u 2 inch lift in front and 1 in rear), 33" tires, 17" MT sidebiters, king shocks front and rear would be a great starting point? this would eliminate warranty issues and would be considered a safer ride
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