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Can I temporarily get by on 35's with no lift?

3K views 38 replies 10 participants last post by  SLADE 
#1 ·
Picked up a new Unlimited the other day. I have new wheels/tires (35's on ProComps, no offset = 5" backspace).

I'd like to put them on and drive to the shop where I'm putting on the lift kit. So, will it be ok for just on the road driving for now? From what I've read it should be (posted similar question on another jeep site but final answer still not clear).

Thx

Dave
 
#7 ·
According to AEV, they design their rims to work with their lifts. They use +10 offset, which equals aprx 5.22" backspace. They want the tires as close to the truck as they can without any rubbing. 4.5" backspace looks bit too far out to me. Zero offset, which equals 5" backspace seems just right for the look and should have no clearance/rubbing issues. Stock is 6+" backspace.

OK, I'm just your basic white trash over here. So forgive me if this is a stupid question.

But why not just drive over on the factory tires? And put the big tires on after?
Good question...No, not over anxious. It's a logistics issue. They want the tires there to test drive and check alignment. If I can drop off my jeep with tires on, my friend can pick me up on his way home from work. If not, I need to load the pickup and find another driver to follow me out (or make another trip the following day). About 45min each way - so if it's not an issue for street trip it would be the most practical and save a bunch of time.

It's a 2016 so welds won't be a factor...just wondering about flares at this point...

Thx

Dave
 
#3 ·
A big bump could theoretically shred the tires on the wheel well or pinch seam (for which the pinch seam you should deal with regardless of lift, if it's 2014+ the pinch seam should be good to go for 35's). If you're extremely confident the road is free of big bumps, it's probably safe. Is there any reason to not just leave the old tires on until it has the lift on? If it's just impatience/seeing the tires on, I highly recommend waiting until the lift is on.

Basically, you can make it safe if you want to go through the work but just putting them on and not checking clearances could end very poorly.

As for backspace, you're going to be very very close to rubbing on the front at full steering lock and might need to shim the steering stops.
 
#5 ·
OK, I'm just your basic white trash over here. So forgive me if this is a stupid question.

But why not just drive over on the factory tires? And put the big tires on after?
 
#9 ·
It's been pretty well established in the last nine years what backspacing is required for various tire sizes. There is a pretty extensive sticky concerning that.

Your second post talks about AEV but your first post talks about ProComp.
 
#10 ·
Are you insinuating that backspacing numbers have different meanings between manufacturers?

Most manufacturers claim you need a minimum of 4.5" BS. Why do they say that? Because it's a safe number and a very commonly cast wheel. AEV seems to have done some research and claim 5.2" works. It probably does, as lots of people run their wheels. Are their lifts and wheels special? Nope.

The less backspacing (numerically higher) number a wheel has, the less stress it puts on the balljoints, bearings, and other stuff. That sounds advantageous to me
 
#16 ·
No idea on what wheels youre running so I cant say, but most of the guys I run with do not have bump extensions for 35s. Most 35's are 34.x". My tires are 33.5 and ran them stock. Now lifted. Still on factory bump personally. 4.5 BS. 2.5" lift. Flat flares. OP is talking about a 34.x tire with a 5" BS. I cant imagine adjusting for a 1/2" diameter change up from center, with a 3" bump extension... especially while going 1" out at the same time. I would really want 4" BS personally. Lets say it was stock 32 to true 35. You are putting on 3" extension for 1.25" diameter change from center...

If this is truly required, and you off road your vehicle, I cant imagine a good reason to go to 35s. Or... actually use your travel and get flat fender or trim... (EDIT)I guess now that I think most have trimmed fenders or flat fenders running 35s in my group. Might be why.... I just haven't heard of many people putting on the bump extensions until 37 territory.
 
#18 ·
Lets say it was stock 32 to true 35. You are putting on 3" extension for 1.25" diameter change from center...
Your numbers do not add up...

If you look at how the stock tires and wheels will tuck up in behind the flares, you'll understand why you need more tan 1.25" of bump stop extension to run 35's.

The added width of the 35's on wider wheels with less BS push the tires out far enough that they no longer tuck in behind the outer lip of the flares. So now along with the tire size increasing and reducing tire clearance, you are also loosing 2"+ of tire clearance at the flare because the tire now hits the outer lip.

Look at COLOUXJ's thread I posted to help you get a better understanding of what all going on with the tire clearance and shock requirements.
 
#20 ·
Did a little poll for the clubs I'm in. Lots of 2.5" lifts with 35s and factory flares and no bump extensions. Also... lots of flat flares (trimmed or aftermarket) who made that decision because of rub. Seems the rear is the part that gets most people. All who responded said they don't run them in the front. The ones who are are running any where from 1-2.5" in the rear and that was the rub they were fixing.

I would say this totally depends on the shock youre running... not the tire. If the collapsed length of your shock is longer than factory, then you'd HAVE to run them to not blow your shock. Not because the tire doesnt fit... I'm saying the tire fits. Seen it and asked the groups. Maybe all people in a Jeep club understand appropriate back space or something. Just not an issue with those around me.

Sticking with my original answer. If you research the shock, backspace, and tire size and truly think about the whole setup, the tire fits without bumps.
 
#25 ·
Sticking with my original answer. If you research the shock, backspace, and tire size and truly think about the whole setup, the tire fits without bumps.
So your saying that 35's fit on stock suspension with factory flares and no BL with only wheels with the right back spacing...

What is the wheel width and BS needed to run 35s on stock suspension /factory bump stops without rubbing?

What 35's have you ran on your Jeep?
 
#21 ·
Also I have a 10.2" travel shock. On a 2.5" lift, find me one that has more than that. It collapses to the same length as factory. An exact 14.5. I am 24.7 extended. I have flat flares, 33.5x12.4, 4.5 back space. I have the room to get a 35 (of the same width) front and rear at full stuff.

Flat flares may be more money, but you mentioned ProRock axles... Thats WAY more money. Trimming is free and Bushwackers are 600 all the way around... although plastic. ACE is cheap metal, and really, if you wheel in tight spaces with lots of trees (KY, TN, IN like me), Nemesis, MC, PSC is what you should have. I'd want all my travel, and wouldnt want it limited because I like factory flares. If you go stubby on the front, factory flares look goofy anyway. Personal opinion.
 
#27 ·
Flat flares may be more money, but you mentioned ProRock axles... Thats WAY more money. Trimming is free and Bushwackers are 600 all the way around... although plastic. ACE is cheap metal, and really, if you wheel in tight spaces with lots of trees (KY, TN, IN like me), Nemesis, MC, PSC is what you should have. I'd want all my travel, and wouldnt want it limited because I like factory flares. If you go stubby on the front, factory flares look goofy anyway. Personal opinion.
A lot more benefits in spending money on a Prorock 44 than flat flares that would accomplish nothing.

I don't like the look of cut flares and there's no benefit in going to flat flares from my current setup unless I'd run 37" tires. Tires have to be covered for WV inspection, so the flat flares that other full tire coverage are few.

I have full use of all of my suspension travel and am running about 11" travel shocks front and rear. So suspension is not limited.
 
#22 ·
Here are a couple pics of my jeep with 35's and at this time 2.5" bumps. Wheels are 4.5" back space. These are BFG's so they don't measure even close to 35". 35x12.50r15.

Stuffed steering mostly straight you can see they tuck up there nicely and I don't believe they were rubbing like that. However, when turned and stuffed they certainly did make contact but not enough that I felt any damage would occur. With less bump stop I am pretty sure they could have caused damage to the fenders.

Apparently, it didn't like the pictures...
 

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#23 ·
Got a shot of the rear tire on the other side? You are also on a rock, and while its looks like flexed all the way, an RTI is the best check.

Edit - Looked up your tire. Thats a 34.8... I'd say thats pretty close to 35.
 
#24 ·
I didn't have one of the rear that was really good. It didn't rub with 2.5" bumps but I do know that before the lift when I had 33's it would rub in the rear.

Paper says the BFG's measure close but my reality was they were just barely 34". Those wheels in that picture were a 7" wide wheel and I don't know if that affects it either.

Not sure it could have been flexed anymore, it was teetering like this. I could climb out and rock it back and forth just a bit.
 
#28 ·
Picked up a new Unlimited the other day. I have new wheels/tires (35's on ProComps, no offset = 5" backspace).

I'd like to put them on and drive to the shop where I'm putting on the lift kit. So, will it be ok for just on the road driving for now? From what I've read it should be (posted similar question on another jeep site but final answer still not clear).

Thx

Dave
Yes.
 
#35 ·
And there are a whole bunch of people with duallys and sports cars, and Jeeps, where the spacers fail... not an argument I want to get in. Google image search. Try it.

My tires are not much smaller than most 35s. 1" OD. Ran them without a lift for about 2 years. Stock flares. Didnt disconnect until I lifted it 2.5". By that time had my flares (month before). I also asked the most reputable shop near me who I know has installed lifts and 35s on literally hundreds of JKs in the area since 2007 (in other combinations, hundreds more). Said bumps are not usually recommended by them or required until 37s on a JK... unless using stock wheel. Have a ramp in the parking lot if you wanna check rubs.

Every tire is different. Every wheel is different. Every shock is different.... Everyone's experience is different. If yours rub, do something about it. I know you enjoy the webber net argument, BUT the OP was asking about if he could bolt up his specific setup and drive to the shop... The answer is yes. I guarantee he wont be climbing boulders to get there. So he wont rub. So he doesnt need 3" bumps. Its that easy.
 
#36 ·
No argument, I've asked you to provide specifics on the setups that allow you to run 35's on factory bump stops, flares, and no body lift without rub at full bump. What you did different from Duneslider, Colouxj, Planman, and Myself that completely eliminated the need for extended bump stops at full bump with 35's and factory flares/no body lift.

Still waiting, so nothing to argue about.

I have both 295/70R17's and 35x12.50R17's here at the house.... along with 285/70R17's. Just had a Chevy here Monday that I lifted and put 285/75R17's on. I know the difference in the tire sizes.

I acknowledged in the beginning that there are factors that can reduce the amount of Bump stop that is needed, but none of them apply to the OP as far as I know. And you still maintain that no bump stop extension is need to prevent rubbing at full bump with 35's with factory flares and no body lift. So your saying that you can run 35's on a stock Jeep and they will not rub at full bump... Tell us what it takes...

So instead of telling us about people you have "consulted" with, why don't you just simply state the setup that allows you to run 35x12.50R17 or 315/70R17s (not a narrow 33" or 34") on stock bump stops, factory flares, and no body lift. Just end the back and forth by providing details of the setup that allows you to run 35's on a stock Jeep without rubbing at full bump.

Don't try to project this on me "enjoying the webber net argument" BS (NOT Back Spacing). I'm here for the discussion not the argument. You quoted me and called me out for posting an inaccurate statement. So instead of telling me about these people you consult with that say you don't need to extend the bump stops to prevent rubbing with 35's on factory flares and no body lift, just share the specifics. Show us some pictures at full bump (metal on metal at the bump stop) of 35's not rubbing the factory flares. I've seen plenty of people who have said you don't need bump stops for this tire or that tire and a little lift is all you need. Relying on increasing compression to the point tires do not rub or using your shocks as bump stops does not mean you don't need bump stops. Bump stops are the suspension's way of setting tire clearance. Without extending the bump stops, tire clearance remains the same at full bump. So if you don't need to extend the bump stops at full bump with a 2.5" lift, you can run that same tire with no lift.

SO instead of talking about this person you know that says or someone else that says, or this other place that is "reputable" told you, why don't you just provide the specific setup that allows you to run 35's on factory suspension with factory flares, and no body lift without rubbing at full bump. Post a link to someone's build who is running 35's on factory flares, no body lift, and factory bump stops that does not rub.
 
#38 ·
Wow...I've created a monster! ?

From my experience 35's (Goodyear DuraTrac's) on 18x9 Pro Comp's with zero offset do not work for full time on a completely stock 2016. They are fine for around town but will rub the front bumper on bigger bumps. The plastic air dam also has to be removed beforehand.

Conclusion. Ok for temporary use. Not ok for much else. Completely unscientific...but a real world experience.

Thankfully, lift being installed and can pick it up tomorrow. Problem solved!
 
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