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Unread 04-14-2014, 08:03 PM   #1
Adam556
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Buying a new JKU

Looking at a 14 jk unlimited. In the next year I will do a 2.5-3.5" lift and probably 33-35's. My only must have options are Auto trans and AC. Should I try to get the 3.73s stock, or do 4.10s anyways with my tire choice? Any other things I should look for?

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Unread 04-14-2014, 08:56 PM   #2
chris79
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Just get a Rubicon, you won't regret it.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 05:52 AM   #3
WXman
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Since you may do 35s and a lift immediately, then YES get the 3.73 upgrade (or a Rubicon).
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Unread 04-15-2014, 06:51 AM   #4
chris79
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Originally Posted by chris79 View Post
Just get a Rubicon, you won't regret it.
Plus the Dana 44 in the front is nice to have on the Rubicon if your running bigger tires.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 01:46 PM   #5
Adam556
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The plain JKU around here are around 27k new....if I go up to a rubi or add anything other than ac, auto trans....the price is almost 10k higher. Not sure if its worth it. I think I prefer a blank slate to start with. Thinking maybe only 2.5 lift with 33s would be the best aftermarket to suit me.
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Unread 04-15-2014, 02:00 PM   #6
ROCKR8R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam556 View Post
The plain JKU around here are around 27k new....if I go up to a rubi or add anything other than ac, auto trans....the price is almost 10k higher. Not sure if its worth it. I think I prefer a blank slate to start with. Thinking maybe only 2.5 lift with 33s would be the best aftermarket to suit me.
The Rubicon comes with a D44 front, selectable lockers, 4:1 transfer case, optional 4.10 gears, electric sway bar disconnect. You get quite a bit for that 10K, however Rubicons are niche and if you don't think you need any of that then it may not be worth it to you.

As for your plan, you can fit 33's with no lift, 2.5" is a little too roomy for me, personally. If was going to run 33's only, I would only do a leveling kit or .75-1.5" lift. As for what gear ratio, whatever you do, do not do 3.21. 3.73 or 4.10 will be ok for 33's.

-Dan
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Unread 04-15-2014, 02:33 PM   #7
YATZI1980
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The electronic sway bar disconnect on the rubi is ****. Mine went bad at like 28k miles and most people I know theirs went also around 30k. If you don't need lockers then that's wasted money also. How much offroading are you gonna do? There is so much info on here.... Not all good... Do as much research as you can. Drive the jeep and figure out what you need to suit the wheeling you do. Build it right the first time or you will just end up changing parts and spending more. Remember rule of thumb is $1000 per inch to lift. Now even that varies depending on your fabrication skills and access to parts or help building etc... But when you start changing parts and lifting it can snowball fast!!! Enjoy and good luck

Last edited by 1222; 04-16-2014 at 11:37 AM.. Reason: Bypassing the word censor…
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Unread 04-15-2014, 07:45 PM   #8
Jared89
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There is also the resale aspect too. If you add lockers to your sport iit's not gonna make it worth more.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 04:31 AM   #9
Bnabb
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I like 4.10s in my yj. For a jk the 3.73s are plenty.

By the way is "just buy a rubicon" the new thing to say?
Kind of like when people complained about a 4 banger everyone would said "just drop in a sbc"

I would like rubicon but like the op I can't spend 10k on all the extras.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 06:11 AM   #10
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I bought a sport with 3.73's in 2013, my buddy bought a rubi with 4.10's. There is absolutely no doubt that he can do obstacles that I can't. Then again, he'll be paying it off a hell of a lot longer than I will, while I just buy more mods and build it myself. Ask yourself what you really need. Do you really need lockers, front and rear? Do you need an electronic sway bar disconnect? And will you need a front D44? Are you going to lift 2.5" and run 33's? 35's?

My two cents here is go with the sport, and mod it to what you need. If you sleeve and gusset the D30, that will give you a decent amount of strength, providing you aren't banging it hard on rocks. The rubi lockers are nice, but shops around here will do a regear + ARb/zip locker install for 3.5k. The price difference between a sport S with an auto and 3.73's and the rubi is 6k. If you spend 3.7K on mods for the sport S, you can get pretty close.

No doubt I've been jealous of my buddy when he did climbs that I couldn't. But he's gonna be jealous when I'm completely paid off, locked and lifted and he still has 4 years payments to go on a vehicle that's getting beat on offroad.

EDIT: realized I didn't answer your original question: 33s or 35s. My opinion, if you're going to lift it, get 35's. You can run 33's stock, but why not get the most bang for your buck?

Last edited by Monkeybomber; 04-16-2014 at 06:17 AM.. Reason: realized i didn't answer original question
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Unread 04-16-2014, 07:31 AM   #11
WXman
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I would, however, recommend the S package because having manual locks and manual windows on a 4-door blows. That got very annoying for me very quickly.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 09:11 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeybomber
I bought a sport with 3.73's in 2013, my buddy bought a rubi with 4.10's. There is absolutely no doubt that he can do obstacles that I can't. Then again, he'll be paying it off a hell of a lot longer than I will, while I just buy more mods and build it myself.
Monkeybomber: The reasons your buddy's Rubicon can do more obstacles are his driving skills, 4:1 Transfer Case, disconnected swaybar, and lockers (in that order, with the 4.10:1 gears making little to no difference). When I decided to go with a Rubicon, the t-case gearing was the single greatest selling point since I have a 6spd and wanted to be able to go nice and slow through the Rockies.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 09:29 AM   #13
Monkeybomber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcutter View Post
Monkeybomber: The reasons your buddy's Rubicon can do more obstacles are his driving skills, 4:1 Transfer Case, disconnected swaybar, and lockers (in that order, with the 4.10:1 gears making little to no difference). When I decided to go with a Rubicon, the t-case gearing was the single greatest selling point since I have a 6spd and wanted to be able to go nice and slow through the Rockies.
Re-reading my statement there, I can see where there's a little confusion. I was in NO way trying to assert that the gear ratio mattered when it can to obstacles (provided the tires are right etc....)

The OP had merely asked what gear ratio he should buy, which is why I bothered to mention it at all. Should've followed that statement with that I'll likely have to regear when I go to 35's, while a 4.10 can skim by.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 10:01 AM   #14
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From the sounds of things I would try and squeeze out a Sport S with 3.73s unless you plan on doing some hardcore offroading. Thats what I did. Everone says buy a rubicon these days. I see tons of Rubicons being driven around by folks who don't even know what a locker is and their jeep doesn't see more than a dirt road. Adding lockers to a sport will make it worth more just not to a dealer. A dealer is only going to give you trade in value in which the rubicon will depreciate almost the same as the Sport.
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Unread 04-16-2014, 10:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjcrawlr
From the sounds of things I would try and squeeze out a Sport S with 3.73s unless you plan on doing some hardcore offroading. Thats what I did. Everone says buy a rubicon these days. I see tons of Rubicons being driven around by folks who don't even know what a locker is and their jeep doesn't see more than a dirt road.
100% agreed on this. If you aren't going to spend a good amount of time in rocks/snow/mud, the Rubicon is a waste of money for a hood sticker. Based on what you've said, I'd also suggest a Sport S on 3.73s.
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