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Unread 11-02-2013, 01:14 PM   #16
SubAtomicGenius
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To those buying grade-8's at the local hardware store: if you look in the phone book or online and find a fastener supply distributor, you can buy bolts and nuts for about 1/3 the price of Lowes, Home Depot, etc. Just sayin.

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Unread 11-02-2013, 01:36 PM   #17
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Very true, especial when you buy in bulk. Sometimes though itís just more convenient if you only need a couple of things to buy from the local hardware store. The extra price in gas getting to a supply house and back isnít worth the time or effort.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 02:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
I don't believe that any of the factory bolts are grade 8 either. As long as the kit bolts are the same or better then stock it is a non issue.
The factory stuff is 10.9, which is an "equivillant" to Grade 8. Grade 5 doesn't come close to either of these. If grade 5 stuff came with his kit he should contact a lawyer.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1222 View Post
Very true, especial when you buy in bulk. Sometimes though itís just more convenient if you only need a couple of things to buy from the local hardware store. The extra price in gas getting to a supply house and back isnít worth the time or effort.
I can literally walk to a Fastenall store from my house! But it's true about buying in bulk... If you only need a couple of bolts it probably is better to go to Lowes or Home Depot.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 03:17 PM   #19
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Good to know .. I snapped off one of those 10.9 factory bolts a couple days ago and replaced with a Grade 8. I thought grade 8 and up hardware were gold anodized/colored.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 04:03 PM   #20
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Nope can be whatever.. Ive sheared both grade 5 and 8..5 luckily bends more. I have since redrilled all suspension bolts to 5/8 and used grade 8 fine thread.. Debated grade 9 but it gets pretty brittle.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 04:09 PM   #21
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I just did the synergy bolt swap (full kit, both uca and lca) on my '14 last weekend. The factory stuff I pulled out all said 10.9 on it. Definitely glad I did, you would think after 7+ years Chrysler would put the right size hardware in these things. Some of the bushing sleeves were already showing the rasped out wear after only 2800 miles.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 05:56 PM   #22
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This is the what the end of some of the bolts look like:



I got this from a hardware reseller. Grade 5...
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:16 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho-X-Jeep View Post
...I can literally walk to a Fastenall store from my house!...
Lucky you, I have to drive across town to get to places like that.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:21 PM   #24
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OK so a grade 5 is 120,000 psi and grade 8 is 150,000 psi considering a standard grade is only 74,000 psi is this a real concern? 30,000 psi doesn't seem to be a huge difference. I am not an engineer so I'm asking.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:25 PM   #25
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Difference is really in the brittle vs bending.. But its pretty noticeable...
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Unread 11-03-2013, 12:09 AM   #26
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Grade 8 and metric equivalent purchased.... The back is done and I'm now on the front half. I must say I though these were the worst instructions I've ever read. That is the understatement of the century. These are the worst anyone has ever read for such a technical install. Sheesh.

The second thing I discovered this evening is that once the control arms have been loosened per the instructions, torquing them back to spec is impossible with the wheels on while sitting on the ground. The upper rear control arm mounted at the axle is too close to the wheel on the inside and on the outside there is a big rubber bump stop in place that wasn't there before. Absolutely no way to get a ratcheting torque wrench in there. It's not a question of my flexibility, it's impossible.

Now I've started the fronts and I'm not certain what new adventures await. I know already the front brake line bracket is an issue and it's not adequately addressed in the manual. The teraflex how to video conveniently skips over that part, lol.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 06:08 AM   #27
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I was able to torque every fastener with a 1/2" drive torque wrench with the tires on the ground. Sometimes having the end your working on sitting on ramps will allow more room under the vehicle to maneuver and get better leverage.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 06:08 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ken800
Grade 8 and metric equivalent purchased.... The back is done and I'm now on the front half. I must say I though these were the worst instructions I've ever read. That is the understatement of the century. These are the worst anyone has ever read for such a technical install. Sheesh. The second thing I discovered this evening is that once the control arms have been loosened per the instructions, torquing them back to spec is impossible with the wheels on while sitting on the ground. The upper rear control arm mounted at the axle is too close to the wheel on the inside and on the outside there is a big rubber bump stop in place that wasn't there before. Absolutely no way to get a ratcheting torque wrench in there. It's not a question of my flexibility, it's impossible. Now I've started the fronts and I'm not certain what new adventures await. I know already the front brake line bracket is an issue and it's not adequately addressed in the manual. The teraflex how to video conveniently skips over that part, lol.
Totally forgot about the rear bump stop circus!! Installing the rear bump spacers is in itself a pain. Instructions have you install them, then later when your are told to torque all control arm bolts, you realize that the only way to do the rear uppers is to remove the bump spacers. Boom, another 30 minutes wasted. And every time you have to retorque them.

Also, it has you mount the rear sway bar links inboard. Took me a while to find the suspension squeak... Turned out to be the bolts tearing up my frame.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 07:24 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by invest2m4
Also, it has you mount the rear sway bar links inboard. Took me a while to find the suspension squeak... Turned out to be the bolts tearing up my frame.
That is strange. In the instructions I have here it says to mount the rear swaybar link extensions outboard , same as stock. However they will rub the stock wheels/tires unless you have wheel spacers. Are you running stock wheels without spacers?
If you are running aftermarket wheels or wheel spacers mount the swaybar links outboard as they are mounted stock.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 08:02 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto
That is strange. In the instructions I have here it says to mount the rear swaybar link extensions outboard , same as stock. However they will rub the stock wheels/tires unless you have wheel spacers. Are you running stock wheels without spacers? If you are running aftermarket wheels or wheel spacers mount the swaybar links outboard as they are mounted stock.
Ha!! Check out the instructions on their website. Apparently yours are updated. Once I figured out the issue, I swapped them around and made my own decision on the bolts to ensure clearance. I have aftermarket wheels with plenty of back spacing. I've since ditched the TF lift.

The other install issue I had was that one of the rear coil spacers didn't want to seat in the hole. After an hour of trying, the rubber bulb on the spacer was totally jacked. I had to trim it to make it fit.
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