Buy a Unlimited Rubicon? Build a Unlimited X Monster?
The only reasons for me to buy a Unlimited Rubicon vs an Unlimited X are:
1) Standard Tru-Lok front and rear, electronic remote lockers
- Can add aftermarket Lockers
2) Standard Dana44 up front and rear with 4:10 gearing
- I want to upgrade to the rear Dana 60, could buy a Dana44 for the front.
3) Standard Electronic swaybar disconnect.
- Can get this as an option $575
4) Standard Mopar Rockrails
- Can add aftermarket
5) Standard Air conditioning
- Can get as a option $1,125
6) Rock-TracŪ NV241 Transfer Case
- Only Command-Trac™ NV241 GII available.
SO the only thing I cannot modify easily after purchase is the Rock-Trac NV241 Transfer Case.
This is something I've been going back and forth with as well. For as much as I go off road the X makes more sense to me. Small lift, 35's, plus a few more comfort options for less than the Rubicon. Also if I can get the dealer to add the mods off the lot, that will be a big plus.
You are going to replace most Rubi standard equipment anyway - and generally with better aftermarket equipment so start with a cheaper base and build your own beast.
If you are the type that cannot do any of your own work and just want the minimum of mods but still be as capable as possible off road, then a rubi.
It sounds to me that you will be building a beast though.
2007 JK Wrangler Unlimited (Black), 4" SuperliftRanchoExpress Lift, 36" Super Swamper Irok's covering 16" ProComp's, AFE CAI, FlowMaster 40 Series, Shrockworks Rock Sliders, Rock Hard line of undercarriage skids, Warn Powerplant, Shrockworks Mid-width front bumper, Dana 44 Front
Honestly, for your plan, go with the X. Yes you will have to replace the X front D30 with a D44 ontop of buying a rear D60 but that sounds like the only advantage to get a Rubi. You can add the disco as you said, you plan to get aftermarket side rails as well so whats the point?
I personally went the Rubicon route. An umlimited LIFETIME warranty on the drivetrain sold me. Sure you can put in lockers and a new front axle but then you lose the warranty. I would stick with the rear 44 until it breaks then upgrade it to the 60.
__________________ '08 Red Rock Unlimited Rubicon / AEV 2.75" Lift with Remote Reservoir Shocks / AEV Heat Reduction Hood / AEV Front & Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier / AEV Skidplates & Rear Corner Guards / Riddler Diff Covers / Mopar Enhanced Rock Rails / Warn 9.5ti Winch / Mopar Gas Cap Cover / 4.88 Gears / IPF 900xs Drive Beams / Eagle Eye HID Spotlights / Daniel Stern Headlights / 17" AEV Pintler Wheels with 35x12.5r17 BFG Mud-Terrain KM2's / Tuffy Security Drawer / sPod and Benchmark Dual Battery System / Cobra 75 CB / Lockpick with Front and Rear Cameras / Katzkin Heated Seats / Line-X Interior / Hitchsafe Key Vault / and a Trasharoo and a lot more little stuff or just stuff I forgot!!!
An umlimited LIFETIME warranty on the drivetrain sold me. Sure you can put in lockers and a new front axle but then you lose the warranty.
That is assuming Chrysler will honer their end. I have read, many a post on this board and others, where Chrysler told them to shove it. There is a guy on another board who lives right up the road from me and Chrysler will not cover the transmission (auto) work on his auto tranny because they say it smells like royal purple and not ATF4. They even found "They stated they removed the lower bellhousing inspection plate, and can clearly see it leaking from the front pump seal" Good luck with the lift time warranty thing.
2005 LJ Rubicon w/Savvy Under Armor
Jarhead Jeep Club member #17
Colorado Jeep Club member #119
July 14, 2008
RIP Danny Dupre SSgt/USMC
I looked at this the same way
I picked the RUBICON.
My wife and I went to MOAB UT four times in this last year, we have a CJ 5 that we keep there we have also rented 2007 RUBICONS from one of the Moab outfitters, just stock no mods, we did 5 or 6 trails there that were rated very difficult and the RUBI had no problems. I will add bumpers and a winch but as far a lift and bigger tires I see no reason other than looks and if you are after looks get a HUMMER
__________________ 1972 cj-5 Very Cool, In MOAB, UT. Front and Rear ARB AIR LOCKERS, 4.56 Gears, EFI by Howe
2008 JK Unlimited yellow "RUBICON"
" BONE STOCK BUT BAD TO THE BONE "
I wouldn't base any decisions on the Life Time warranty. It doesn't include wear and tear items like clutches, brakes, belts and such and makes me wonder IF you managed to keep your wrangler till the engine died or transmission was completely gone, say like 300,000 miles, would Chrysler blame it on wear and tear items or replace? My money is on the first one...
What kind of wheeling are you planning? If you think you will sorely miss the Rubi transfer case and can't afford the expensive non-Rubi mod option, go with the Rubi, otherwise I would definitely go with the X were I in your shoes.
depends on how much cash you have on hand. Rubicon is hot, straight out of the gate. You'll probably finance at a lower rate than you could on a credit card, especially if they are still doing the 0% thing.
On the otherhand, if you have a ton of cash sitting around and can make the mods right away, why not go with the x.
I went with the Rubi. When I buy my lift and tires next month I'll be way ahead of where my TJ build ended.
|2008 Unlimited Rubicon * Automatic * Teraflex 4" Long Arm * Teraflex HD Frame Brace & Draglink Flip * Superior 5.13 gears * SLC Driveshafts * 17" Procomps * Staun Internal Beadlocks * 37x13.5 Toyo Open Country MT * Solid Diff Covers * Evo C2 Gussets * Screamin Lizard Customs|
An umlimited LIFETIME warranty on the drivetrain sold me
That is now for all new Wranglers, not just the Rubi's. It dependes on how much modding you actually want to do. You can build an X to have all the same features as a Rubi for less than the price diference of the Rubi. After all, it's only real difference is front D44, lockers, and front electric discos. The lockers and manual discos (which give more articulation than the electric ones) installed aftermarket are way less than the factory price jump. The only expensive item would be the front axle, but even that added in still costs less than the price jump. You can't really count a lift, tires and wheels and such in your cost to upgrade, because you would do that no matter what model you bought.
For those of you who do care to preserve your lifetime warranty, you may want to follow my plan.
I am going to have the dealership do every single service including each and every oil change. I will have them use their own materials rather than bringing in my own higher quality fluids for them to use. I am going to follow their published maintenance schedule like clockwork and will not do any modifications to the warrantied drivetrain. If every single service is done at an actual Jeep dealership and not some independent shop, they will have no grounds to stand on when it comes to trying to refuse to give me new engines and transmissions twenty years from now.
And just so you know, this advice is coming from a guy who has always done his own oil changes and has restored a 1968 Land Rover Series IIA for serious use off-road in the Rocky Mountains. I bought my Rubicon because it had all of the off-road drivetrain goodies I want/need and all of them have a lifetime warranty. The Land Rover Defender I just sold had all of the lockers and other goodies, but I spent a fortune on them and paid out of pocket for all repairs over the past 14 years.
If I must have another hard-core rock-crawler, I'll build another one, but this Rubicon's drive train will remain stock, the dealership is going to do all of the maintenance, and I am going to hold them to their insane warranty many years down the road. Heck, I'm even going to try to use Mopar parts wherever I can when adding goodies to my Jeep.
So I would say that it makes sense to buy a Rubicon if you plan on keeping the vehicle for a long time and like the lifetime powertrain warranty. If you must do mods and don't care about your powertrain warranty, then get the X and start turning wrenches. . .
Last edited by YuccaPatrol; 05-07-2008 at 10:56 PM..