Building confidence in the Dana 30 - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 27 Old 12-14-2015, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
drth20
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Building confidence in the Dana 30

I'm getting ready to run 35's and I need some advice on what order in which to do things to my axle.

At the end of the day I want to run a selectable locker up front, Evo gusset and Nitro sleeve my Dana 30. I may upgrade to RCV's but that'll only be if I blow out the stock axles down the road. I've installed 4.10's and an LSD rear. My wheeling is moderate and I can't justify an aftermarket 44 and I'm not convinced that a Rubi 44 is worth it.

I've heard that I should install sleeves before the gussets, or at the same time (project period). I've read that even through slow and careful welding, the "C's" can still bend slightly, making it really F'ing difficult to pound in the sleeves.

The Question:
Is there a "safe" time that I can run 35's without gussets on the Dana 30?

The reason I ask is because I don't have easy access to a welder, but I have a freezer and a BFH, so I can easily do the sleeves first. The gussets would probably go on up to a month after initially installing the 35's.

Thoughts?


'14 JK Sport, 6-sp. Lifted, mud-tires, stuff 'n' things and a can-do-attitude.
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post #2 of 27 Old 12-14-2015, 10:57 PM
christensent
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Ya you definitely have a safety period (although nothing is guaranteed, you could wreck your inner-C's mall crawling hitting a giant pot hole just right at 40MPH, but you also could on stock tires if very unlucky). It's extremely unlikely you'll break anything if you take it easy. I did a year of pretty hard wheeling on a stock rubicon axle (same housing and inner-c's, only the differential contents are different in a Rubicon D44) and everything was just fine. Really your biggest problem will be your gears in a d30 and sleeves and gussets won't do a thing to help you there. Avoid using throttle to solve your problems and you'll probably never have a problem with the gears. If you add a locker, use it very selectively and be careful with it because the d30 isn't going to hold up all that well to being locked.

As for sleeves, I'd really suggest doing weld-in. Hammer in sleeves don't do a thing to improve rotational stresses on the axle, while weld in sleeves will help you at least a little to prevent those breaks. I went with outer-sleeves because it structurally makes the most sense to me.
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post #3 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 04:48 AM
SLADE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drth20 View Post
I'm getting ready to run 35's and I need some advice on what order in which to do things to my axle.

At the end of the day I want to run a selectable locker up front, Evo gusset and Nitro sleeve my Dana 30. I may upgrade to RCV's but that'll only be if I blow out the stock axles down the road. I've installed 4.10's and an LSD rear. My wheeling is moderate and I can't justify an aftermarket 44 and I'm not convinced that a Rubi 44 is worth it.

I've heard that I should install sleeves before the gussets, or at the same time (project period). I've read that even through slow and careful welding, the "C's" can still bend slightly, making it really F'ing difficult to pound in the sleeves.

The Question:
Is there a "safe" time that I can run 35's without gussets on the Dana 30?

The reason I ask is because I don't have easy access to a welder, but I have a freezer and a BFH, so I can easily do the sleeves first. The gussets would probably go on up to a month after initially installing the 35's.

Thoughts?


Your Dana 30 is not going to fall apart as soon as you throw the 35's on it. There are plenty of people running 35's on the Dana 30 without issue and some running 37's without major failure. The Dana 30 is fine with 35's especially for a DD with just mild-moderate off road.

With that said, if your looking at going full retard on a Dana 30 axle build(RCVs, sleeves, gussets, selectable locker)... Start building a Dana 44 instead. The price difference between building your Dana 30 and picking up a bare Rubicon Dana 44 Housing with HD J8 tubes and building a 44 would be minimal to non existent. You could really end up in a 44 for less than what you would have in building your 30, especially if you eliminate the need for RCV shafts. It will be money better spent.

Throw the 35's on your 30 and run them while you start gathering parts for the Dana 44.

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post #4 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 04:27 PM
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I built up my D30 simply because there were really no options when I purchased it...been running an ARB, 4.88 RCV axles, sleeves and gussets for 35's for about 6 years, no problem.

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post #5 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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I wouldn't mind slowly building up a 44 but the hard part is finding a good used one. Best price I've found is $1,200 for just a housing (ebay). Maybe if I can source one locally for less I'll go that route.

I've already eaten up a good chunk of my fun money with JK parts (Build thread will probably start early next month) and parts for my Cafe bike build (Separate build thread on Do The Ton for you custom bike builders out there), so the locker and such are probably a year or so away. This spring I'll be tearing down my front axle to deal with some rusting issues so I figure that since it'll be stripped I might as well spend the $180 on sleeves and gussets for the extra insurance.

'14 JK Sport, 6-sp. Lifted, mud-tires, stuff 'n' things and a can-do-attitude.
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post #6 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 04:54 PM
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If it wasn't for the JK Rubicon Dana 44 housing with J8 tubes, I wouldn't have even brought up building a Dana 44 for 35's. Take it off the table as an option and I'd say go full retard on the 30 as long as you were sure that 37's are not in your future.

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post #7 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 04:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drth20 View Post
I wouldn't mind slowly building up a 44 but the hard part is finding a good used one. Best price I've found is $1,200 for just a housing (ebay). Maybe if I can source one locally for less I'll go that route.


How about starting with a NEW housing with thicker tubes for $865.36 plus shipping?

I think the part number you need to take to your local dealer is Part #P5160036. May save you on shipping charges.


http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p.../P5160036.html



JTphoto just recently built one, I'll see if I can find a couple of his threads related to it.

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post #8 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 05:52 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE View Post
How about starting with a NEW housing with thicker tubes for $865.36 plus shipping?
That's something I think I could get behind.

'14 JK Sport, 6-sp. Lifted, mud-tires, stuff 'n' things and a can-do-attitude.
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post #9 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 05:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE
How about starting with a NEW housing with thicker tubes for $865.36 plus shipping? I think the part number you need to take to your local dealer is Part #P5160036. May save you on shipping charges. http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p.../P5160036.html JTphoto just recently built one, I'll see if I can find a couple of his threads related to it.
You bet great build ... $2500 got me the housing, OX locker with E actuator, 5.38 gears and new factory axles. Add another $600 if you want RCVs.
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^^Jeff^^
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post #10 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
You bet great build ... $2500 got me the housing, OX locker with E actuator, 5.38 gears and new factory axles. Add another $600 if you want RCVs.


There you are, I was hoping you would show up.


I have an already geared Dana 30 with a Detroit Truetrac, A Superduty Dana 60 sitting beside the house, but after seeing your build I think I'm going to go with the HD Rubicon Dana 44 housing.

The Superduty 60 is more than I need and I can't see dumping a bunch of money in the 30 when a 44 can be built so cheaply. In my case, I can sell the geared 30 housing and shafts to offset the cost of the 44. Going the same route as you would put me in a geared and locked 44 for less than $2k.

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post #11 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
You bet great build ... $2500 got me the housing, OX locker with E actuator, 5.38 gears and new factory axles. Add another $600 if you want RCVs.
That's a great looking axle.
Does it accept the standard 44 knuckles and steering hardware? I'm in the understanding that the only difference between the HD Dana 44 and the standard Rubi 44 is the thicker tubes, the "C's" and everything else are the same, correct? Just want to make sure that the knuckles, hub assemblies and everything else (albeit the gears obviously) is the same as the standard D30/44. I would like to be able to swap my D30 knuckles, hubs, brakes and steering directly over.

'14 JK Sport, 6-sp. Lifted, mud-tires, stuff 'n' things and a can-do-attitude.
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post #12 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 06:50 PM
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JTPhoto's threads on it...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/j...specs-3309377/

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f202/mo...d-1379137.html

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post #13 of 27 Old 12-15-2015, 10:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drth20
That's a great looking axle. Does it accept the standard 44 knuckles and steering hardware? I'm in the understanding that the only difference between the HD Dana 44 and the standard Rubi 44 is the thicker tubes, the "C's" and everything else are the same, correct? Just want to make sure that the knuckles, hub assemblies and everything else (albeit the gears obviously) is the same as the standard D30/44. I would like to be able to swap my D30 knuckles, hubs, brakes and steering directly over.
This is an actual Rubi D44 it just has heavy J8 tubes. So, all the Rubi D44 parts are direct swap including the E locker connections, Rubi locker, seals, bearings, axles, knuckles etc.

^^Jeff^^
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post #14 of 27 Old 12-16-2015, 11:11 AM
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Tube thickness of the J8 tube.
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^^Jeff^^
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post #15 of 27 Old 12-16-2015, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
drth20
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does that accept the standard Dana 30 knuckles?

'14 JK Sport, 6-sp. Lifted, mud-tires, stuff 'n' things and a can-do-attitude.
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