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Unread 07-17-2014, 09:33 AM   #1
Brut4ce
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broke steering box from frame...found the floating feeling

Since the last trail carnage I knew ot took a lot of stuff out and I replaced bit it never felt right and had a wandering feeling....I chalked it up to possible bent ends or loose tie rods due to the nature of the break up front...
Took kids surfing sunday and when I parked I heard a pop.....looked real quick saw nothing...
We left beach and it was wandering worse the wheel was tilted sideways....pulled over to find the lower 2 steering box mounts broke off the box as well as the top 2 bolts were bent from the box trying to steer and pulling away from frame rail....

Drove them home real slow then to the shop real slow....glad t did what it did I was on the freeway earlier...its been broken for a while since breakage,,..the breaks are rusty.

Found the cause of my wobble from the last trail carnage, so slapped in my Delphi box with PSC sector shaft and already tapped for hydro assist...











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Unread 07-17-2014, 10:22 AM   #2
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nice how much was the built Delphi box and where did you get it from? One reason more to maybe brace the sector shaft?
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Unread 07-17-2014, 11:01 AM   #3
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I don't see anything wrong here...it's probably just a worn out steering stabilizer, I'd replace that...
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Unread 07-17-2014, 11:28 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
nice how much was the built Delphi box and where did you get it from? One reason more to maybe brace the sector shaft?
Dont think a brace would have helped....I thought about that but based on the initial damage and it ripped my stabalizer bolt off the Tracbar bracket as well..
Its when I sheared a ball jku t bent inner and outer knuckles. Bent cgusset destroyed axle both ends and the joint etc....its cast and isn't made to take that kind of load...sector shaft was fine....


I had the Delphi box I tapped and built it....its been sitting here for 6 months...
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Unread 07-17-2014, 11:29 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mtnbiker995 View Post
I don't see anything wrong here...it's probably just a worn out steering stabilizer, I'd replace that...
With duals....
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Unread 07-17-2014, 12:20 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brut4ce

With duals....
Yup! It'll fix your death wobble too I hear

On a more serious note... Are you putting a ram on too or just the box for now?

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Unread 07-17-2014, 01:15 PM   #7
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Dont think a brace would have helped....I thought about that but based on the initial damage and it ripped my stabalizer bolt off the Tracbar bracket as well..
Its when I sheared a ball jku t bent inner and outer knuckles. Bent cgusset destroyed axle both ends and the joint etc....its cast and isn't made to take that kind of load...sector shaft was fine....


I had the Delphi box I tapped and built it....its been sitting here for 6 months...
perhaps but they do give it a double shear point below the pit mounted to the frame. But i remember that thread and what happened. That was a real "Huston, we have a problem" moment. might have just broke it to.

will have to look at what it cost to acquire a second box and the cost of the upgraded sector and do the tap myself<=>to just buying one ready to go, like PSC etc.. But not going to happen anytime soon, with our trip to the Dusy coming up. in 4 weeks. Plus i was more liking the idea of doing a belly up after the trip. instead of going bigger tires. But even that will take time to get what parts i must buy and make, to be even close to that being ready.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 01:23 PM   #8
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perhaps but they do give it a double shear point below the pit mounted to the frame. But i remember that thread and what happened. That was a real "Huston, we have a problem" moment. might have just broke it to.

will have to look at what it cost to acquire a second box and the cost of the upgraded sector and do the tap myself<=>to just buying one ready to go, like PSC etc.. But not going to happen anytime soon, with our trip to the Dusy coming up. in 4 weeks. Plus i was more liking the idea of doing a belly up after the trip. instead of going bigger tires. But even that will take time to get what parts i must buy and make, to be even close to that being ready.
I'd love to see a belly up....I have a couple ideas when I relocate the tank to they and suck all supports up more as well...

Parts for the hydro assist are around $300 minus pump....if you have a Delphi box its good to go...I replaced the sector shaft with Psc because a buddy had it new in box for $50 so figured ot was a smart move...


As far as ram that will be in the next few weeks....wasn't going to do the swap over yet because I'm still building the cage and the rack....as well as control arm pockets...but it left ,e no choice...the ends are capped and tapped....just hook lines up and ram all is ready now...
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Unread 07-17-2014, 01:25 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mtnbiker995 View Post
Yup! It'll fix your death wobble too I hear
m
And run 40s safely.....on a d30 with 5:38 gears no lift ....
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Unread 07-17-2014, 01:46 PM   #10
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You can't run 40" tires on a D30, it will explode. I saw it on the internet, its true. As soon as the wheels touch the studs, D30, explosion.
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Unread 07-17-2014, 02:23 PM   #11
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You can't run 40" tires on a D30, it will explode. I saw it on the internet, its true. As soon as the wheels touch the studs, D30, explosion.
Lmao.......
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Unread 07-17-2014, 03:28 PM   #12
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Flat belly Jk are the cats a$$.........

I have been really studying what it takes to go flat. I wish i could go with a tj tank and its pump but so far no one has done it like they have with a 3.8. So guess i will get the 20 gallon Genright alloy(i would not build that) rear and its skid and a anti rock as the stock wont work. That is like 2k+ right there for both. changing the exhaust i can fab that. the way i see to get 2" inch up with out even moving the trans up is the mounts on my auto just go with a flat plate mount and then from the frame have two isolation points. I figure i will make that from my old stock front control arms. Then unlike genright hard mounted brace that is for a 4 link and it braces the flat plate. i will make that with no 4 links and make it removable from the frame by adding frame brackets that will bolt to the brace. so the tcase can be serviced easier. Or make it do both hold the trans from the back and the plate brace?? hard to say now. But i like the idea of it doing both.
The belly plate i will have it cut to width and length at our local steel shop that dont charge to much to just break cut it. I will shape it and drill the mounting holes. No way is that worth like 2500$ to have gen right make it.

I figure the trans can move up about 1" delete the trans mount with the frame sided one is 2" and thats the lost 3". I would love to have 21 of belly on 35"s. I am at 18 right now on 4.25 lift on 35"s. Then go 37"s but i would need the steering worked and some front end work. just to much $$$$$$ to do when i wold rather spend that on going places. Prices on 37"s is just so much more than 35"s I just got a set of 35"s MTRK for 190$ compared to the 400$... I might be on 35"s a long time. Gearing cost etc.etc..........
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Unread 07-17-2014, 08:09 PM   #13
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Those cracks would have been hard if not impossible to spot when fresh - adding to my extra close inspection list though - whenever it appears the pitman arm has made a direct hammer with rocks (doubt steering force did that).

Wow is all I can say - glad you made it safely - that could have been bad. Just think - if not for the steering load of the sand (had you NOT gone in sand) it could have really let go with no warning at freeway speed... turn and lock at 70 is no fun... I've seen the same type of failure in stock cars - but they have cages. And the tracks has concrete walls and fences to protect others!
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Unread 07-17-2014, 08:12 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by ferninaz View Post
You can't run 40" tires on a D30, it will explode. I saw it on the internet, its true. As soon as the wheels touch the studs, D30, explosion.
Not if you properly static ground the tire wheel assembly eliminating the point of ignition...
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Unread 07-17-2014, 08:20 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 222Doc View Post
Flat belly Jk are the cats a$$.........

I have been really studying what it takes to go flat. I wish i could go with a tj tank and its pump but so far no one has done it like they have with a 3.8. So guess i will get the 20 gallon Genright alloy(i would not build that) rear and its skid and a anti rock as the stock wont work. That is like 2k+ right there for both. changing the exhaust i can fab that. the way i see to get 2" inch up with out even moving the trans up is the mounts on my auto just go with a flat plate mount and then from the frame have two isolation points. I figure i will make that from my old stock front control arms. Then unlike genright hard mounted brace that is for a 4 link and it braces the flat plate. i will make that with no 4 links and make it removable from the frame by adding frame brackets that will bolt to the brace. so the tcase can be serviced easier. Or make it do both hold the trans from the back and the plate brace?? hard to say now. But i like the idea of it doing both.
The belly plate i will have it cut to width and length at our local steel shop that dont charge to much to just break cut it. I will shape it and drill the mounting holes. No way is that worth like 2500$ to have gen right make it.

I figure the trans can move up about 1" delete the trans mount with the frame sided one is 2" and thats the lost 3". I would love to have 21 of belly on 35"s. I am at 18 right now on 4.25 lift on 35"s. Then go 37"s but i would need the steering worked and some front end work. just to much $$$$$$ to do when i wold rather spend that on going places. Prices on 37"s is just so much more than 35"s I just got a set of 35"s MTRK for 190$ compared to the 400$... I might be on 35"s a long time. Gearing cost etc.etc..........
the only real reasonable way i see it happening is a flat plate with isolators and getting creative on the bracing of a flat plate as the crossmember, while keeping it removable..all in at it would be quite simple to fab one up and do it, but your arm mounts (axle and frame) will still suck *** and if you change them around you will struggle to keep desirable separation with the few inches of area to work with. mine will be flat belly with uhmw but i dropped the belly area 2" to keep separation. Realistically i should have went a little more...
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