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Unread 05-24-2010, 06:55 PM   #1
bmf2001
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Brake pads are good but squeak, why?

25k miles and the front brake pads are still good so why do they squeak and how can I stop it?

They do not squeak every time I use my brakes but often enough that it bugs the hell out of me.

Thanks!

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Unread 05-24-2010, 07:00 PM   #2
McKBrew
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I have no idea. I get the occasional squeak from the front and the rear, but it doesn't bother me. I consider it part of the Jeep's personality.
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Unread 05-24-2010, 07:03 PM   #3
PILL
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Squeaking is caused by the pads vibrating. You can buy a spray that will hold the pads to the calipers and stop the squeak.
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Unread 05-24-2010, 07:24 PM   #4
chuy293
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This can be caused by the discs or pads or both being crystalized. My 07 did this, i removed pads and roughed them up on the cement (evenly). The discs i roughed up with some sand paper. This fixed the problem for me, hope it helps.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:17 AM   #5
N2rock
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You can remove the pads, clean everything up real good. Then apply a liberal amount of brake grease to the backs of the pads.

My rear pads (which I replaced at 24k miles) squeak. I did not apply enough brake grease apparently. I'm used to motorcycle pads where you only need a thin application of the grease. So I did the same with these pads, and apparently it wasn't enough. I really need to redo it, I've just been too lazy. The squeak annoys the hell out of my 14yr daughter when I have the top off
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:24 AM   #6
nyrangersfan19
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I'm in the autoparts business. Check to make sure the pads on the vehicle don't have shims pre-installed on them. If they do, most of the time the no-squeal sprays and greases will slowly dissolve the adhesive bonding the shims to the pads, and create worse squeaking down the road. Just a heads up.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:35 AM   #7
N2rock
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Originally Posted by nyrangersfan19 View Post
I'm in the autoparts business. Check to make sure the pads on the vehicle don't have shims pre-installed on them. If they do, most of the time the no-squeal sprays and greases will slowly dissolve the adhesive bonding the shims to the pads, and create worse squeaking down the road. Just a heads up.
Well that's something I've never heard. And good to know. Guess I now know why my pads started squeaking about a month after putting in the new pads
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Unread 05-25-2010, 08:51 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyrangersfan19 View Post
I'm in the autoparts business. Check to make sure the pads on the vehicle don't have shims pre-installed on them. If they do, most of the time the no-squeal sprays and greases will slowly dissolve the adhesive bonding the shims to the pads, and create worse squeaking down the road. Just a heads up.
True ^^

consequently, better or "more stopping power" pads will squeek more, too.
Both our race cars (vette & a fox body mustang) use Hawk HP+ or better pads... Squeek squeeeeeeek as you come to a stop.
Oddly enough, a decent pad which doesn't squeek is the regular ol NAPA Gold.
Good pads. I'll probably use those for my Jeep in 10k more miles.
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Unread 05-25-2010, 09:27 AM   #9
nyrangersfan19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2rock View Post
Well that's something I've never heard. And good to know. Guess I now know why my pads started squeaking about a month after putting in the new pads
No problem. Glad I was able to help someone else out for a change!
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Unread 05-08-2015, 01:23 AM   #10
jesse111
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IT'S NOT THE PADS.

There are 2 steal guides on both ends where the brake pad is held in place as it slides in and out. These guides are made from crappy steel that squeak as either end of the pad slides across it. Apply a dab of grease and work the pad back and forth. The problem will be solved.

Alternatively, you can spray a touch of grease on them if you know where they are. You may first want to remove a wheel and the 2 bolts that hold on the caliper and understand exactly what I've described. You'll then know where to spray.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 04:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesse111 View Post
IT'S NOT THE PADS.

There are 2 steal guides on both ends where the brake pad is held in place as it slides in and out. These guides are made from crappy steel that squeak as either end of the pad slides across it. Apply a dab of grease and work the pad back and forth. The problem will be solved.

Alternatively, you can spray a touch of grease on them if you know where they are. You may first want to remove a wheel and the 2 bolts that hold on the caliper and understand exactly what I've described. You'll then know where to spray.
I would watch the grease on things in the wet dusty areas of the country. Grease attracts dirt and moisture. I live in the salt belt, when I do my brakes I use a white lithium grease very little of it on the supports or pins. I also open them up just a touch. I also use a little stop squeak on the back of the pads to help reduce the squeak.

On my Shelby they have squeaked since day one and I was told they will always squeak when they are cool. They are 6 piston brimbo's. True enough the warmer they get the less they squeak.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 05:36 AM   #12
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Sometimes brakes can develop a glaze from mostly light braking. A couple of hard stops at highway speed can often solve it. Naturally make sure no one is behind you.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 07:43 AM   #13
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Some good points here - some not so good. Cold squeal is quite expected - especially in reverse - hot squeal indicates an issue. But not necessarily a bad issue. As mentioned above - brakes designed to be most effective from 150mph to 75 mph (racing and high perf) will be harder than the best choice for 100-10 and will squeal at the lower speeds!

Brakes do NOT work simply by pad rubbing on metal. They BED - that is particles of the pad rub loose and inbed into the pores of the rotor. The bedding in the rotor creates a controlled friction - matching pad to material gives a constant friction over a wide temp range. Without proper bedding that range is very narrow and the friction created is not even through various pedal and speed combos - in other words inconsistent. Creating heat uses up energy - the energy "expense" - the stopping power - is done by that bedding... Rubbing your pad faces on concrete is NOT a good idea - concrete dust is then on\in the pad. That dust then grinds on the rotor and pad accelerating wear - and destroying the eveness of the bedding - if the pad is wearing faster (by adding the concrete dust abrasive) it simply can't make the friction (picture a pad made of adobe - it would crumble away before it made enough heat to slow the vehicle - concrete dust would create a crumble effect at the pad surface). The grind not only removes the bedding from the rotor - it speeds up the pad erosion and thus causes the bedding to run cooler - less brake. Further - cleaning rotors with sandpaper is not a good move. Removing the bedding unevenly (which there is NO WAY to remove it evenly other than turning the rotor) causes different temps to be created rotationally - warpage follows the uneven heating.

Surprised that no one mentioned to check the squealers. There is a tang on the pad that touches the rotor and squeals when pad thickness hits a certain point. Pad thickness is not a "looks fat to me" spec. typically 45% thinner than when new is the replacement point. Pads that "look good" can be gonzoes.

Next check is the pins and sliders, followed by pad backing. Some pads do have a layer on the back - that layer gets worn and you either replace the pads or live with it - the backing goop (never squeal) will erode the layer further - the goop is for UNBACKED pads as mentioned above. Ive seen guys put a new layer on - but for the cost of pads - why?

Being too easy on your brakes can glaze the pads - and they can be rebedded a bit - as above perform several hard applications (varying amount of brakes) from 50-20 (not a complete stop) allowing a cool (approx 5-10 miles at steady speed) between them.

The biggest cause of uncorrectable squeal is the wrong pad. Choosing a "high performance" pad (harder pad material) thinking "more stopping power" is wrong. Pad hardness dictates the speed at which optimum heat is produced. The pad for a race car is designed to make the right amount of heat at >120mph. The heat developed at 75 and below is not enough to stop - and could leave you underbraked (under bedded). On the flip of that running a soft pad too fast will fade the brakes from over bedding.
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Unread 05-08-2015, 08:13 AM   #14
cyberpyrot
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I just keep an anchor and a chain in my passenger seat when I want to stop I toss it out.
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