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post #1 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
Wrangler44
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Body lift

Can someone explain a body lift to me? I read a lot of different reviews on this.
So I want a 3.5inch lift suspension size. Butttt maybe I could do a 2.5inch lift suspension size and a 1or 1.5 inch body lift. If I'm not mistaken the body lift does nothing for the truck. Just confused though.

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post #2 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 07:48 PM
benjmjeep
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It can give you more room for larger tires. It also tends to mess up just about everything that connects your body to the frame and motor, makes the angles weird.
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post #3 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 07:59 PM
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A Body Lift uses blocks to lift the body off of the frame, usually 1-3".
It can give more clearance for the tires, but does nothing to lift the frame higher off the ground like a suspension lift does.
Not very popular on the JK.

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post #4 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 08:36 PM
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A suspension is like a girlfriend. You may think you have the most beautiful one on the planet and someone else won't touch her with a 10 foot pole. That being said you will find a lot of people will hate to downright look down on you for having one. But they do have their place. You need to cater your suspension to how you are going to use it. If you lived in California and planned on doing stuff like the Rubicon trail then you would want the largest lift to give you clearance for the largest tire at full flex. You would want that type of lift for rocks you will be climbing over. Here where I live it is mostly hill climbs and mud. I wanted a 35 inch tire both for looks and also a majority of people run 35 or less. So it will help me for ruts in the mud. Because of that I choose a 2 inch lift. Gives me enough lift to clear the tires I want yet keeps it lower to the ground so my center of gravity isn't to high to hinder my hill climbs and off camber trails. This is where the body lift comes in. A suspension lift will lift the Frame, engine, transmission, transfer case, and the body. All of which raises the center of gravity. A simple body lift will only raise the body. A bulk of the weight still stays low yet allows larger tires. The other benefit of a body lift is it doesn't change the geometry of the stock drive train at all. You can put a 2 or 3 inch suspension lift with no real issues. At 4 and above you have to start worrying about replacing drive shafts and the extra stress due to drive line angles.

Figure out what you want from your lift and which one will get you what your looking for.

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post #5 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 08:58 PM
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First, why do you need a 3.5 in lift? Unless you are building a rock crawler on 37+ in tires, 2.5 will do the job for 35 in tires at minimal cost. You have to ask what you need the lift for. I do not recommend lifting any higher than needed to accommodate the wheel/tire you want to run, which is either performance or mall crawler based...

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post #6 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for explaining the body lift. I'm doing the lift for performance and off-roading. My type of off-roading would be beach/minimal rock crawling unless I go on my trips with some of my buddies which I do plan on to so I want to be somewhat capable for that/mud/I do get heavy snow storms during the winter here, I'm in ny so a lift would deff benefit me. I guess with 3.5 isn't really practical. Deff not doing 37s but 35s is a yes. Deff not the body lift either, doesn't seem safe. 2.5inch lift seems fair but I have saved up a decent amount of money for aside for my next wrangler so I figured why not 3.5. Which I know comes with a pretty token. But I was also thinking if I get a 2.5 inch lift, people say you can always build on it if you think you need more so I could always do that in the future. Just trying to figure out if it would be cheaper to do it now in one shot or in intervals....I hope your mind is still working after this, welcome to my brain :-/
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post #7 of 26 Old 09-10-2013, 10:45 PM
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If you have saved up a good chunk of money then get a better 2.5" lift. My preference is to research and order the parts you want. Dont go with some companies "kit". But that is just me, and I am in the minority on that.
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post #8 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 01:57 AM
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Once you go over 3" the whole game changes to do it right $$$$$$.
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post #9 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 06:39 AM
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This is the manufacturer I bought. I went with the 2 inch because as you can see in the video it is more than capable with plenty of flex. Especially since my wheeling is like your. Sand and mud don't need much flex. But I am hoping to do some trips. Hoping and doing are two different things. Trips are expensive. And unless you doing trips to rock crawling areas on a regular basis it isn't worth building a true rock crawler. A good 2 inch system is about $800. The basic 3.5 on up about $1800. But if you plan on doing trips to rock crawl you need to also add in drvie shafts to that figure.



How to choose which OME system
http://www.oldmanemu.com.au/old-man-...sion-selector/

Video of their 4 in

Here is a 2 in system rock crawling


My suggestion is spend some money on a good quality 2 or 2.5 inch system. Use the money you save for extra/beefed up skid plating. And hopefully part of your money is saved up for a winch. Even if you just plan on putting it on the stock bumper. Since I am handing out advice. Do winch research. You will find people will say a good rule of thumb is 1.5 times the weight of the vehicle. The 2 dr weighs at most 4200 lbs. So you would think anything over 6300 lbs would be good. And most run 8500-9000 lb winches. And I have seen several burn them up. I personally went with a 11,000 lb quadratec. I know and talked to several people who run them and loved them. I liked their low voltage draw. And I have heard good things with their customer service. I would, and did, pony up for the synthetic rope. The weight savings alone is worth it. This is the one that now resides on my bumper!


http://www.quadratec.com/products/92122_2031_07.htm

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post #10 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrangler44 View Post
Can someone explain a body lift to me? I read a lot of different reviews on this.
So I want a 3.5inch lift suspension size. Butttt maybe I could do a 2.5inch lift suspension size and a 1or 1.5 inch body lift. If I'm not mistaken the body lift does nothing for the truck. Just confused though.


A small body lift does plenty for a JK.

A 1"- 1.25" Body lift is a great addition to a mild lift. It will give you a little added tire clearance without limiting suspension travel with bump stops and at the same time keeping the COG lower. They allow you to get just a little more lift without going over a suspension tipping point. They help keep the stock feel in the steering and handling. Allow more room for components (muffler, mounts, acc.) under the body.

They do have some benefits that you won't get out of a suspension lift and they work well with a suspension lift.

I would not consider anything more than a 1.25" body lift though.

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post #11 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 11:28 AM
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3.5" lift done correctly with drive shafts, ball joints, Control arms, track bars, tires, wheels, etc. 5k and up. Do a good 2.5" lift, your primary uses don't dictate the need for the extra travel of a 3.5" lift. If you only occasionally go on trails your jeep with a 2.5" lift running 35s can handle a lot more than you're ready to do. sink the extra money into armor, winch, rock rails, diff covers, oil and trans skids.

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post #12 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 11:58 AM
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Wingit. All winches for a JK run at the same voltage. There is no such animal as a " low voltage draw". However, amperage draw maybe lower due to motor characteristics and torque variances. In fact a low voltage to a series wound motor will increase amperage and could toast the motor under extreme low voltage operation.

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post #13 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast View Post
Do a good 2.5" lift, your primary uses don't dictate the need for the extra travel of a 3.5" lift.

The increased lift height from a 2.5" to a 3.5" lift does not necessarily mean you'll get more travel out of your suspension. The same sized bump stop is still needed for the same size tire regardless of ride height. Some 3.5" kits require more bump stop regardless of the tire size just to accommodate the steering correction though (high steer for example). When that is the case, compression is lost with the expectation of picking it back up in droop. That same droop can be picked up in a 2.5" lift but the loss of compression can't be retrieved from the 3.5" lift.

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post #14 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 12:19 PM
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Ok not all 3.5" lifts will net better travel, some of the better lifts will. all 3.5" lifts will net you better approach, departure and break over angles. I still stand by,the very occasional trail off-roader does not need to tackle a 3.5" lift.

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98 TJ: Daugher 2 - 4.0L, 5spd, D44 rear
06 LJ Rubicon: mine - Rokmen full up-armor, 8 adjustable CAs, front bumper, sliders, corners, Shrockworks rear bumper, 3" AEV/BDS lift, Currie HD stearing and Antirock, MT/r - k 35x12.5, SuperWinch, MC Overlines, York OBA
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post #15 of 26 Old 09-11-2013, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Filthy-Beast View Post
Ok not all 3.5" lifts will net better travel, some of the better lifts will. all 3.5" lifts will net you better approach, departure and break over angles. I still stand by,the very occasional trail off-roader does not need to tackle a 3.5" lift.

Which are the better lifts that you recommend that will provide more travel?

The amount of travel is determined more by the components used and how it is put together and less by the amount of suspension lift. Going from a 2.5" coil to a 3.5" coil does not mean suspension travel will be increased.


I agree, a 3.5" lift really isn't need. You can get just as much if not more out of a 2.5" lift.

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