i have a 07 wrangler Sahara it has rough coutrys 3.5 lift and it came with a drop pitman arm and drop braket for the tb it has 255/75/18s on it and i get deth wobble pretty good sometimes i had it alighend and tires ballanced i stoped at a local off road shop they said theres diff alighnments now that it has a lift on it so maybe the stock setup is was causing it so i was wondering if theres any upgraded steering systems that cost under 1000 so plz list them and tell me the pros and cons
dont u need the drop brakests and drop pitman arm for the 3.5 lift? rough country isnt that bad where i live it rides nice and the other things that are rough country are pretty obvious how to make them just 1/4 steel drops a monkey can do it lol but if we where talking about there 6 1/2 lift for cherokees there junk the x flex joints blew out in a week but other than that its just springs shocks not going to go blow money on another lift when the one on there isnt bothering me i just wanna figure out the delth wobble and id like to run bigger tires but befor i do i want to change the steering and upgrade it
I believe you need adjustable control arms because your caster is too far off with the lift. I haven't lifted my JK yet but I had death wobble on my stock setup and from the hundereds of posts I read trying to resolve mine it seemed like after you lift you get the "shopping cart wheel" effect because there is to much caster and the wheel is trailing instead of leading. You put on the adjustable control arms and you can fix atleast that issue.
SledWrecker....wrong....a wheel will likely never lead, it will always trail with the geometry of the JK as given. However, the caster needs to be set around 4 to 5 degrees to avoid wandering. Yes, adj control arms will allow caster to be adjusted if the lift did NOT include installed cam bolts. I think the OPs real problem is the crap RC lift that is installed, maybe they are good on some trucks, but not on Jks IMO. Get rid of the drop pitman and TB bracket and get the drag link and track bar as parallel as possible to avoid bump steer, then make sure the TB is properly torqued down and that the mounting holes are not wallowed out from previous problems. Best write up is Planmans.
08 JK 23S - Colorado Jeep Club No. 204
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Yes, the more you lift the JK the more the castor gets out of whack. The more out it is, the worse the handling and the driveablity is. If you don't have adjustable lower control arms on your lift, I would suggest swapping them out first.
I would at least consider replacing the drop pitman arm with a stock one, and the track bar drop bracket with an axle side bracket. Improved geometry and less stress on the steering box. Also, adjustable control arms or control arm brackets (AEV) will fix the caster problem. From there though, you really need to dig into the death wobble thread and check the track bar bushings and mounts, tie rod, drag link, ball joints, bearing etc.
In all honest it is going to cost you a decent amount to make that front end solid depending on what you want to do with it. Could even look at just buying a full complete suspension system and starting over.
get ride of the drop pit and raise the axle drag link. then do a drag link flip.
I like the Synergy tie rod and drag link kit I just put in. made my stock with only 18.k on them feel worn out. the drag was a right hand factory flip AEV junk). Half the price of the curry the Synergy. It is a drag link flip kit and tie rod set. This brings up why you should raise the axle front track bar to parallel the flipped drag. this puts lets strain on the pit arm and raises your roll center. Common on lifts over 3.5. Works nice I run it. If you ever need to replace any of the rod ends. its all the same, looks like a gm 1ton part all are the same thread, double adjustable. not bad for 550ish and made in the usa. On my 15 inch rims it was close with those big tre's.
I did not have DW but just up graded. The stock tre's are lose from the factory the drag link can flex as well. the bigger the tires the more you notice how lose this stuff is factory. Pluss you can grease the newer parts, by the time you get the dw out you may have 50 zirk fittings to grease.
Steering geometry. I'm a recovering Old Bronco addict and steering geometry is the key to solving the death wobble. Lifting anything begets the treadmill of Hell with respect to parts and modifications. It is a fun path though!