Optima moved their manufacturing jobs to Mexico, and their quality control to hell. So, if you put a 7 year old optima against a brand new one today, I would bet the old one will last longer.
Can you tell I'm pissed at Optima? Profits will remain high until all the old reliable ones are gone and people clue in, then Optima had better get dirt cheap, like so cheap harbor freight is selling them. There is an endless supply of guys who had an optima battery for nearly ten years before they had to replace it, then they do it every year. I'm disappointed, but somehow the offroad shops are still stocking them, although my favorite shop says they've heard the same complaints I have.
Your understanding of history of design, marketing and manufacturing (and optimum application use) of the Optima coiled mat is lacking...
Almost every failure of Optimas I have seen were not in "as designed" optimum use - expectations of consumer were (and remain) well above design limitations of the coiled mat. If all you need is a battery then a flat AGM or wet is best choice. If you need a battery that can survive 2000 iterations of 3gs (like F1 or indy car on Indy speedway), a tumble down the back straight, or door hammering, or jumping, etc - and still cold crank the car all season long the coiled mat is designed for that - Optima was designed in 1972 (as the Gates Cyclone) for high impact applications\g force applications (like racing where you bang each other and walls) - KNOWINGLY sacrificing CCA and Ah ratings in favor of the rigidity (heavy duty in strength - not power) of the coil mat (spiracell TM) - answering a high perf market need - circle racers who preferred wet for cost (but had to deal with acid leak in wrecks) and AGMs for safety (but the cost was three times a wet and they STILL had plate shorting issues when hitting walls etc)... After losing the lawsuit (for not allowing women to work in the plant unless they signed a child bearing waiver due to dangers of lead exposure) Gates sold the patent to Gyling (manufactured in Scandinavia) who sold it to Johnson Controls (who ALREADY had a manufacturing plant in Mexico for flat plate AGMs so did not want to spend millions to make needed upgrades to the Colorado plant so moved production). It wasn't the cost of labor that offshored battery manufacturing - it was the cost of environmental due to lead! There is only two real need applications for an optima. Full caged racing - or making your car LOOK like full on race performance. They simply CAN NOT deliver the same performance electrically as a flat mat - less area (see the voids between the coils? you don't have that non contact area in flat plate). Sure if you could get a bigger group size Optima and compare it to a smaller group size flat they compare - but in same size box? NO because CCA and Ah is lower and that can lead it to being overworked especially adding winch, lights etc! And then being AGM they SHOULD be discharged and recharged off veh once a year since steady state alternator charging is not best for AGM (and seems to be more problematic on coil cell than flat). Any other claims are marketing - same as selling "racing" cams or "double pump" carbs to pimple faced testosterone filled teen aged car nuts!
That said I did put blue Optimas in my dual set (814CCA is fine for starting or winching in a dual set) - at 80 bucks each getting two years would have been cost effective. They lasted three years and would have maybe another had I rotated - but #2 hit 80% capacity so I replaced with Odyssey 34-pc1500s - 850CCA vs 765 on the Yellow Optima (and the blues are in service as coach batteries in the RV). Which one is going to reach "overworked" status first? You have to go to a 27 Group yellow Optima to get the same power - and then 830CCA! And the Red Optima 34 group is 815CCA (but doesn't like deep discharges from winching so not a good choice in single battery applications).
For off roading and high angle of operation AGM is best. But unless as above you need a "roll caged" battery - stay away from Optima and go flat mat - more plate interaction area so less work, load and wear on the battery.
When installing a winch best practice is going to be dual battery.
Aside from that - get the highest cranking amps available in deep cycle in your 34 case size... or the cheapest battery you can find and replace every two-three years. (just remember the lower the CCA and the lower the reserve amps - the more strain and heat the winch motor will see especially single battery - same principal as air compressor running hot on low v - that's why a guy who buys smittybilt winch and the lessor capable batteries either as mis placed definition of heavy in duty - or cost consciousness, sees one, the other or both as cheap and junk when they fail earlier than expected - wrong expectation more than wrong quality.).
A 600amp (250 break) solenoid works great as a disconnect.