Ball Joint install... - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-21-2012, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
Johnnydenim
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Ball Joint install...

I am going to be installing Synergy ball joints on my Rubi. This will be my first attempt at doing ball joints. I have gotten all of the necessary tools to do the job. Also, I have found some good videos on youtube showing how to do it.

However, I have searched here on the forum and can't seem to find a write up on a ball joint install. Does anyone have anything out there or have any tips for me?

Thanks,
Scott

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-21-2012, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
Johnnydenim
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Bump...
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post #3 of 15 Old 03-21-2012, 07:36 PM
purplepig
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post #4 of 15 Old 03-21-2012, 07:44 PM
jutgin
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I dont know about on a JK but on a TJ they have to be pressed in/out. So I'm sure you have gotten the ball joint press?
The only thing I can think of is PB blaster the bolts a few days before the install (without getting it on the brakes!)

Justin
2013 Wrangler Sport
Chattanooga, TN
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-21-2012, 08:18 PM
OH9JK
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JK ball joints press in and out just like TJ. You need the right tools for the job. Many local auto parts places have tool loaner programs.
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-22-2012, 11:56 PM
river2c
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Here ya go


2014 JKU Copperhead
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post #7 of 15 Old 03-23-2012, 08:44 AM
Joevacs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnydenim View Post
I am going to be installing Synergy ball joints on my Rubi. This will be my first attempt at doing ball joints. I have gotten all of the necessary tools to do the job. Also, I have found some good videos on youtube showing how to do it.

However, I have searched here on the forum and can't seem to find a write up on a ball joint install. Does anyone have anything out there or have any tips for me?

Thanks,
Scott
I debated doing my own because I like to do my own stuff as much as possible. I came to the decision to pay a shop to do it for me after I counted the cost. The tool needed ( for the cheap one ) was going to be 90 bucks, and it might break. I would probably never have a need for this tool ever again. On the other hand the shop was going to charge 100 bucks to do it for me. It just seemed to make more since to let them do it.
The funny part is ( not haha funny ) They broke their tool while doing the job and had to buy a new one, so I felt like I made the right choice.

2010 Rubicon, 4" lift, Currie control arms and trackbar, 40" Procomp MTR
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-23-2012, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
Johnnydenim
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Is it necessary to drain the diff fluid since the axle shaft is removed for this job?
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post #9 of 15 Old 03-23-2012, 03:53 PM
foolsonparade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnydenim View Post
Is it necessary to drain the diff fluid since the axle shaft is removed for this job?
Nope. JK shafts don't have c clips, so there should be no reason to remove the cover at all. You may loose a small amount of gear oil in the process, but nothing substantial. Just check the level after your done and top off if needed. Good luck
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-30-2012, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
Johnnydenim
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Alright...drivers side ball joints replaced last night with Synergy ball joints. Ran out of time so the passenger side is going to have to wait until Monday night. Broke the speed sensor trying to remove it. Now the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. Has anyone else had to drill out the speed sensor from the unit bearing? Looks to me like will be the only way to get it out to replace it with the new one.

Also, I can believe at how bad the lower ball joint was. It felt like it was just going to fall off.
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post #11 of 15 Old 03-30-2012, 02:20 PM
AROSETO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnydenim
Alright...drivers side ball joints replaced last night with Synergy ball joints. Ran out of time so the passenger side is going to have to wait until Monday night. Broke the speed sensor trying to remove it. Now the dash is lit up like a Christmas tree. Has anyone else had to drill out the speed sensor from the unit bearing? Looks to me like will be the only way to get it out to replace it with the new one.

Also, I can believe at how bad the lower ball joint was. It felt like it was just going to fall off.
How many miles did you have on them?

2005 TJ Rubicon 2dr. Khaki Dual top, 4" OME springs w/33" BFG MTs on 16" MotoMetals, Superlift rear adj. Trackbar & JKS front adj., Currie currectlync steering setup, Russel braided Stainless 4" extended brake lines, ARB bull bar w/ Smittybilt XRC8 winch, Garvin Wilderness swing away tire carrier/bumper system w/ trailrack and gas can holders, KC slimlites 130W windshield mounted, Outlaw door hinge mounted mirrors, JKS sway bar discos, TW doublecardan DS, JKS Adj. CA., 4-Hi locker switch mod.

2012 Jeep JK Sport 2dr. Sahara Tan 6sp.

Past Jeeps: 78 Golden Eagle CJ7 304, 85 CJ7 4.2L and 95 YJ 4.0L
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-30-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
Johnnydenim
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90k
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post #13 of 15 Old 03-30-2012, 04:12 PM
JKommuter
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When I replaced mine with synergy ball joints, the front end felt soooo much better. They were a bit "Stiff" at first, the wheels didn't quite go back to center as fast. That all got better after a couple hundred miles. either that or I got used to it.
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-30-2012, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
Johnnydenim
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Yea, I can already notice a big difference by just doing the drivers side. I can't wait to do the other side to see how it feels. Also going to replace the tie rod end at the pitman arm to get rid of this damn steering knock. Am going to grease the steering shaft boot while I am at it.

The greasable ball joints are going to be nice. Hopefully they hold up like they are supposed to???
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-30-2012, 04:22 PM
paul84043
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This is one of the mods on the list for our brand new '12. Cheap, easy to do, and won't have to worry about stupid plastic ball joints failing somewhere.
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