Axle sleeves & c-gussets - this is the quote I got...
I'm looking to strengthen my front D30. Emailed my local shop to get a quote and got a quote that seems way too high. Initially the quote included TB bracket reinforcement, LCA skid paltes, c-gussets, & front axle truss along with the axle sleevs - total cost apprx $1600! dropped the "axle armour kit" off the quote and got the following response. Let me know what you guys think of this:
"$899.99 to dis-assemble the entire axle, drill 10+ holes through the housing, install the sleeves, weld them up, re-assemble the entire axle, shafts, hubs, & brakes, then buff and prep the axle for the gusset kit + that includes the parts! That doesn't seem to bad."
It's not that hard, actually - for an honest quote I'd like to see charges for hourly labor, welding materials, drill bits, the parts/kit and perhaps buffing/painting afterwards.
I agree however being in the auto industry and working with all sorts of shops and some quite goods ones I can honesty say 99% of the shops that I deal with never charge for consumables. They fiqure out how long it should take and charge an hourly rate. Things like drill bits and welding wire,paint etc. Very rarley are added to an invoice. The shops that do, not only make more money but usually are the shops that do the best job.
^^^ I agree, but one has to realize what is actually used in a job such as this. I know, I just finished sleeving, gussetting and regearing my JK. My only point is that there is alot more involved than just buying the kits and labor.
Installed Nitro No Weld Axle Sleeves with a friend, No Charge, ruined a cheap race driver set.
Quoted $200 to weld Upper and Lower C Gussets.
Purchased Gussets from Northridge for $65.
Purchased Axle Sleeves from Northridge, I cannot recall pricing at the moment.
The welding was to be performed by a local welder with licensing, certification, etc. for structural purposes who went on the forums and other online sources to see exactly what needed to be done before giving me a quote.
This did not include removing the axle or the ball joints. I am ok with purchasing a set of synergy ball joints if the stock ones are effected.
Overheating ball joints and axle seals PLUS leaving metal filings/debris are the concern when doing this job - it is very messy drilling and stepping up holes for plug welds to 1/2".
I was pretty thorough, put rags on coat-hangers into axle tube while drilling to sweep out filings, then used a magnet to gather the fine stuff. Then I swapped out the stock ball joints for Synergy's and put wet rags over the axle seals to keep them cool while plug welding (diff was removed, regearing anyhow).
Regardless, the OP's original quote is higher than I would have expected.
I had them quote some shocks for me when I lived in Buford. They are high on their pricing. I can't really recommend anyone in that area lol. Closest guy to you that does the best work is Fred Perry shop Clemson 4wd. It's far though