Atlas 4 with 3.73 gearing on 2012 JKU sports - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
Turbineguy
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Atlas 4 with 3.73 gearing on 2012 JKU sports

I have a 2012 6-speed manual JKU Sport (3" lift... 35's) that like everyone else I am slowly building up.

I've found myself getting more and more into rock crawling here in Idaho and I have big... expensive... long term plans, but right now, my number 1 complaint in my crawling.

At first I was thinking about just doing a gear swap to 4.88 and reinforcing my front D30, but quite truthfully, I'm pretty happy with my 3.73 and 35s while driving around town at least for now... but on the rocks, I am really having to work the clutch and the skinny pedal, while the rubicons are just crawling over the obstacles.

Of course in hind-site, I should of got a Rubicon, but who knew that this off roading thing would be so addictive (oh, everyone on this forum).

Now, I'm thinking that maybe I should just start off with a transfer case upgrade + the D30 truss and C's to give me that power and control when crawling. Then next year do the axles upgrades and gearing changes.

What say you?

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post #2 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 06:50 PM
Ruby_Tuesday
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An Atlas would be awesome...if you got the coin do it, you won't regret it.
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post #3 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 07:29 PM
AlbertaJeeper
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Atlas would be really cool, but it looks like a big undertaking too! (fairly custom to mount it) First I would look for a Rubi takeoff as that would be straight bolt in and more than likely enough for your needs. But if you plan on going BIG I think an Atlas might be a worthy upgrade
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post #4 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 07:51 PM
jrmars07
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Rubicrawler a possibility for you? A little easier to install and still will lower your ratio quite a bit. I'd have to look in to it more but just throwing it out there as an idea.

2010 2dr Wrangler
2.5" ProComp Lift, Front Adj Trackbar, JKS Disco's
Fox Shocks
Tera Front Lower Controls Arms, Rear Upper Control Arms, Synergy HD Balljoints
Tom Woods 1310 Driveshafts
33" KM2's on ProComp 7069 16x8's
Superchips Flashpaq
AEV Premium Front Bumper, IPF 900XSD Lights, Warn 9.5ti w/ Synthetic Line
AEV Rear Bumper, Tuffy Security Deck
D30 Front Sleeved and Gusseted, RCV's, ARB Locked
4.88 G2 Gears
D44 Rear ARB Locked, Chromoly Shafts
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post #5 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 07:55 PM
jrmars07
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Ah crap you talked about skinny pedal... I don't think they make the rubicrawler for manual transmissions...

2010 2dr Wrangler
2.5" ProComp Lift, Front Adj Trackbar, JKS Disco's
Fox Shocks
Tera Front Lower Controls Arms, Rear Upper Control Arms, Synergy HD Balljoints
Tom Woods 1310 Driveshafts
33" KM2's on ProComp 7069 16x8's
Superchips Flashpaq
AEV Premium Front Bumper, IPF 900XSD Lights, Warn 9.5ti w/ Synthetic Line
AEV Rear Bumper, Tuffy Security Deck
D30 Front Sleeved and Gusseted, RCV's, ARB Locked
4.88 G2 Gears
D44 Rear ARB Locked, Chromoly Shafts
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post #6 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
Turbineguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrmars07 View Post
Ah crap you talked about skinny pedal... I don't think they make the rubicrawler for manual transmissions...
Correct
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post #7 of 26 Old 09-05-2013, 08:17 PM Thread Starter
Turbineguy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruby_Tuesday View Post
An Atlas would be awesome...if you got the coin do it, you won't regret it.
It would probably end up costing $4 to $4.5 K installed.
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post #8 of 26 Old 09-06-2013, 02:48 AM
TheBoss
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The extra torque of that low range will shorten the lifespan of your front shafts especially at the u joint. I would factor in cromolly shafts or rcv's if that d30 is expected to survive long.
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post #9 of 26 Old 09-06-2013, 07:20 PM
SubAtomicGenius
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^^^ IMHO, I don't recommend chromoly or RCV shafts on the D30 at all. Better to snap an axle shaft than grenade your diff, the D30 has an awefully small center section.

Though I love the Atlas 4-speed, she's expensive. Personally, I'd go for a Rubi 4:1 swap first (or even the Atlas 4.1:1), which would be less than half the cost of the Atlas 4. I still think that you'd be better off beefing your D30 with sleeves and gussets at a bare minimum, then regear and add lockers than go for a high-end transfer case swap.
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post #10 of 26 Old 09-06-2013, 07:48 PM
TheBoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
^^^ IMHO, I don't recommend chromoly or RCV shafts on the D30 at all. Better to snap an axle shaft than grenade your diff, the D30 has an awefully small center section.

Though I love the Atlas 4-speed, she's expensive. Personally, I'd go for a Rubi 4:1 swap first (or even the Atlas 4.1:1), which would be less than half the cost of the Atlas 4. I still think that you'd be better off beefing your D30 with sleeves and gussets at a bare minimum, then regear and add lockers than go for a high-end transfer case swap.
Agreed, problem is finding a rubi take out t-case from a 2012-2013. I know the computer won't recognize the lower ratio in the automatic, not sure on the 6spd.
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post #11 of 26 Old 09-06-2013, 09:36 PM
SubAtomicGenius
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Geez, I never thought that it would be an issue, whether an automatic or manual. And the T-case should be the same down to the 07's, aren't they?
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post #12 of 26 Old 09-07-2013, 03:24 AM
HAFICON
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Good read. I though I wanted a Rubi transfer case but instead got 4.88 and ARB front and rear.. I also did truss my D30, I am really happy no serious rock crawling just trail rides with lots of rocks. I to was happy with 3.73 and my 315/70/17s but after 4.88 WOW what a huge difference. Has massive torque, but I have the auto.

315/70/17 Duratrac on MB Wheels
AEV 2.5 with M.O.R.E 1" body lift
Viair 450c, ARB Air lockers,
4.88's and TNT truss.
My build thus far.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...tures-1509366/
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post #13 of 26 Old 09-07-2013, 05:59 AM
TheBoss
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SubAtomicGenius View Post
Geez, I never thought that it would be an issue, whether an automatic or manual. And the T-case should be the same down to the 07's, aren't they?
I'm having "issues" linking back this page from my phone right now, but you can search for this....Rubicon 4:1 transfercase into sport question. It gives a little insight.
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post #14 of 26 Old 09-07-2013, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
Turbineguy
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Update:

I found a Rubicon T-Case which I am having put in next week.

Also, in a case of poor self control, I am also swapping the front D30 for a ProRock 44 with RCV axles, ARB locker, and 4.88s, 1350 yoke. Adding new front driveshaft. I'm also adding an ARB to the rear with Alloy 35 spline axles.

So bottom line, I took my carefully laid out budget and destroyed it.

My kids really weren't college material anyway.
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post #15 of 26 Old 09-07-2013, 07:33 AM
brianjw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbineguy
Update:

I found a Rubicon T-Case which I am having put in next week.

Also, in a case of poor self control, I am also swapping the front D30 for a ProRock 44 with RCV axles, ARB locker, and 4.88s, 1350 yoke. Adding new front driveshaft. I'm also adding an ARB to the rear with Alloy 35 spline axles.

So bottom line, I took my carefully laid out budget and destroyed it.

My kids really weren't college material anyway.
Haha. Sweet. Sounds like something I'd do.

I'm still on the fence about spending more on my factory d44 (already with sleeves, gussets, truss etc) by adding rcvs and gears, vs selling the axle as it sits and having a pr44 built similarly.

I believe I've spent roughly $18-20k in jeep add ons in the last year so I'm trying to slow it down a bit for now.

By the way, before installing the rubi case, check for any slop in the front output shaft. Now would be a good time to replace bearings if needed, or a teraflex 2 low kit if its something you might be interested in.
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