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Unread 09-11-2011, 09:27 AM   #16
spookylynx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMBOX View Post
I'm having a hard time trying to figure out your troubles, in the diff. fluid installation !

They make the qt bottles with a narrow spout and a trimable tube so you can just insertit in the fill hole--I haven't had any troubles !!

JIMBO
every time I tried that, the bottles still seem to get stuck trying to invert them to squeeze the fluid in. I switched to a little $3 fluid pump and it made life sooooo much easier and less messy.
to each their own though....

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Unread 09-11-2011, 06:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by spookylynx View Post
every time I tried that, the bottles still seem to get stuck trying to invert them to squeeze the fluid in. I switched to a little $3 fluid pump and it made life sooooo much easier and less messy.
to each their own though....
I agree. Never liked the straight pour method, its just too thick. (And I've had to change it several times already and just now went over 16k on the odo) And Royal Purple FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Unread 08-22-2012, 03:29 PM   #18
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Virgin post here, thanks for having me.

I am about to do an axle fluid change on our new Rubicon '12 Auto. Its done about 600miles, and I want to clean out any possible shrapnel, filings, debris. My questions are about fluid: how much fluid must go in? Is there a preference to the 90 or the 140 generally?

Lastly, apart from an engine oil change, should I do the Transmission too? Any preferences there (engine + auto transmission)? We live in Calgary, Alberta and it gets warm (30degC +) and cold here (-40degC).

Appreciate any comments, feedback, further words of wisdom.
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Unread 08-22-2012, 08:03 PM   #19
Wavedatya
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I did my gear oil for first time in 30 minutes.

I used conventional 80/90 and bought a hand pump oil gun with a hose to insert oil into the dif. If you put more than recommended it can overflow out the breather tubes and leave a mess that's what i read on here.

Like said in prior posts. Drive 15 minutes and make sure it's level. Pull drain plug and let drain for 10 minutes. Put drain plug back in and remove fill plug. Fill her up and away you go.

Make sure to clean the plugs and remove metal shavings. Also, when placing plugs back hand tighten to make sure threads aren't damaged. Than tighten with ratchet.

It's so easy. Fluids are what you think is best. And for your budget. I personally use the normal stuff at Canadian tire and no issues. And I tow.

Good luck.

As for the tranny I would leave it for a bit more. But lots change over to synthetic everything. I personally wouldn't worry abou tranny or transfer case
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Unread 08-23-2012, 01:25 AM   #20
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If you tend to do lots of water crossings, I find that the 20L/5Gal pail of 80W90 dino is the best option. Less than $60 and I can prob do 4-5 diff changes.

Check the faq for volumes for diffs!!!
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Unread 08-23-2012, 06:11 AM   #21
K_Dub
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One tip is to always remove the fill plug first.

Because if you get the drain plug out but then can't get the fill plug out for some reason, you're screwed.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 06:43 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by K_Dub View Post
One tip is to always remove the fill plug first.

Because if you get the drain plug out but then can't get the fill plug out for some reason, you're screwed.
Excellent advice!

We only use dino oil as well. The Curries have found that Synthetics don't hold up to the shock load as well as Dino. The Synthetic will supposedly last longer. Since we change our diff oil at least once a year it doesn't matter. 85-140w is what we use.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 06:46 AM   #23
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If you tend to do lots of water crossings, I find that the 20L/5Gal pail of 80W90 dino is the best option. Less than $60 and I can prob do 4-5 diff changes.

Check the faq for volumes for diffs!!!
I finally bought one of the pumps for a 5 gallon pail. Probably one of the best $20 investments (Amazon) I've ever made. Made filling the diffs a snap.

Agreed on the dino as well.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 09:04 AM   #24
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If you're in a pinch and don't have the coin available for a 5 gal bucket and/or pump...

Pick up a 1 gallon jug of gear oil, a funnel and a bottle of Gatorade that comes in the "squeeze" bottle that has the valve on top. Drink the gatorade, clean out the bottle and then you'll have a nice small, flexible bottle, semi mess free dispenser to fill your diffs.
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Unread 08-23-2012, 10:08 AM   #25
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Hrm.

I changed mine last week straight out of the gear oil bottles. No problem at all, other than the slight overflow that tells me they are full again.
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Unread 08-25-2012, 05:13 PM   #26
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Hrm.

I changed mine last week straight out of the gear oil bottles. No problem at all, other than the slight overflow that tells me they are full again.
Not sure that would work for your northern brethren. Some people actually DO have winter LOL. Granted, should still work.........eventually......
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Unread 08-26-2012, 07:50 AM   #27
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you have 2 very good choices of businesses that stand behind there work in Calgary- Nationaal Transmission on 14 st NW and Modern Motors for 4x4 service Blackfoot trail and 53rd. Happy Jeeping!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lito View Post
Virgin post here, thanks for having me.

I am about to do an axle fluid change on our new Rubicon '12 Auto. Its done about 600miles, and I want to clean out any possible shrapnel, filings, debris. My questions are about fluid: how much fluid must go in? Is there a preference to the 90 or the 140 generally?

Lastly, apart from an engine oil change, should I do the Transmission too? Any preferences there (engine + auto transmission)? We live in Calgary, Alberta and it gets warm (30degC +) and cold here (-40degC).

Appreciate any comments, feedback, further words of wisdom.
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Unread 08-26-2012, 08:43 AM   #28
rirrgang
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My mechanic didn't report any issues at all.
All in fun guys. I can't do that kind of service where we are staying in the coach but its super simple to drain and replace. Use a little hand pump to put the lube back in. If you have a limited slip an want to use syn lube, add a fiction modifier to it.
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Unread 08-26-2012, 09:38 AM   #29
Butterbuddha
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lito View Post
Virgin post here, thanks for having me.

I am about to do an axle fluid change on our new Rubicon '12 Auto. Its done about 600miles, and I want to clean out any possible shrapnel, filings, debris. My questions are about fluid: how much fluid must go in? Is there a preference to the 90 or the 140 generally?

Lastly, apart from an engine oil change, should I do the Transmission too? Any preferences there (engine + auto transmission)? We live in Calgary, Alberta and it gets warm (30degC +) and cold here (-40degC).

Appreciate any comments, feedback, further words of wisdom.
Why would you want to change your fluid already? I don't think that is part of the standard service, is it?
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Unread 08-26-2012, 01:17 PM   #30
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I don't know what the break-in period/procedure is for a new Jeep off the lot, but the differentials book from Randy's Ring and Pinion that I have advises to change the diff fluid after 500 miles to get rid of any filings, particles and phosphate coating that comes off the ring and pinion. They indicate that it may seem that it is overkill, but they say that it is best practice. I can't see changing the diff fluid after 600 miles as hurting, but according to the book I have, it may actually be beneficial during the break in process.
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