AEV 2.5" with GY Duratac 315/70R17 rubbing? - JeepForum.com
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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:18 PM   #1
grangerdw
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AEV 2.5" with GY Duratac 315/70R17 rubbing?

I am looking at running duratac 315/70R17 on AEV Pintler wheels and AEV 2.5" lift.

Is there any rubbing at either max wheel turn or under extreme articulation?

Thanks!

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Unread 01-08-2014, 04:30 PM   #2
Prot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grangerdw
I am looking at running duratac 315/70R17 on AEV Pintler wheels and AEV 2.5" lift.

Is there any rubbing at either max wheel turn or under extreme articulation?

Thanks!
Have a look at the Will it rub? Sticky.

If the backspacing is 4.5" then you will be fine, although 3" lift would be a little better. Are you keeping the stock fenders?
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Unread 01-08-2014, 06:28 PM   #3
grangerdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
Have a look at the Will it rub? Sticky.

If the backspacing is 4.5" then you will be fine, although 3" lift would be a little better. Are you keeping the stock fenders?
I did look there first, must have missed it. I am keeping stock fenders for a while then going to metalcloak over lands. AEV claims 35" x 12.5 tires will not rub but these are a little wider.

I am not stuck in these tires actually. Just looking for an aggressive looking tire that will last for a while on road.

Thank you for the reply
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Unread 01-08-2014, 06:51 PM   #4
grangerdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
Have a look at the Will it rub? Sticky.

If the backspacing is 4.5" then you will be fine, although 3" lift would be a little better. Are you keeping the stock fenders?
Went back and reread the sticky. I can not find where running pintler wheels with 315/70r17 is addressed. I see 35" with stock wheels but thatis a little different. And maybe I am oover thinking this but AEV claims no rubbing with 35" and their wheels which is close but not the same. I am open to their 3.5 and metalcloaks, but am trying to avoid driveshaft issues.

Sorry for the dumb questions but i want to make sure i am spending right the first time.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 07:56 PM   #5
Jared89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grangerdw View Post
I did look there first, must have missed it. I am keeping stock fenders for a while then going to metalcloak over lands. AEV claims 35" x 12.5 tires will not rub but these are a little wider.

I am not stuck in these tires actually. Just looking for an aggressive looking tire that will last for a while on road.

Thank you for the reply
I don't know if I am reading this right. But a 315/70-17 is Not wider than 35/12.5-17. You might want to try Google it is your friend. All the information is out there and has been covered MANY times. From your post above I don't think you understand a 35/12.5-17 is bigger than a 315/70-17 is every aspect except rim diameter.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 07:56 PM   #6
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3" or less you will not have drive shaft issues.

My 2007 had 315/70-17 BFG AT tires which I ultimately replaced with the same size Duratracs. The Duratracs were better in virtually every single way except wear. The BFG's wore like iron compared to my Duratracs showed noticeable wear rather quickly. I still have the Duratracs and they will go on my 2014 whenever I get around to getting the lift installed.

The brand of wheel is of no consequence. The measurement is what matters. Pick your favorite wheel 17" X 9" with 4.5" backspacing and you will be good with 315/70-17 tires. The Duratracs run on the small side, so the 2.5" lift will be fine. Trim the pinch seam. It is worth noting that my 2007 definitely needed to have the pinch seam trimmed but my 2014 is made different and the pinch seam does not stick out in the way therefore no trimming needed. It is like it came pretrimmed.

Also worth noting is many lifts give a little more height than advertised because the manufacturer is accounting for heavy bumpers, winch, etc.

The main thing is to stick with a reputable brand. Install the track bars and brackets loose, with the Jeep in the air. Make adjustments and tighten everything with the Jeep on the ground. This will help you get your axles centered. If this axles are not centered, you will have death wobble. It may take a few changes of underwear before you get rid of the death wobble. With centered axles, setting the toe, checking caster, and proper torque, you will avoid soiled underwear. When I had my 2007, I would keep a spare set of underwear in my glove compartment. It was that horrible until I got it figured out.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:21 PM   #7
grangerdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared89 View Post
I don't know if I am reading this right. But a 315/70-17 is Not wider than 35/12.5-17. You might want to try Google it is your friend. All the information is out there and has been covered MANY times. From your post above I don't think you understand a 35/12.5-17 is bigger than a 315/70-17 is every aspect except rim diameter.

Thank you for the response, if it only consisted of giving me crap about asking a question. From my google search, prior to posting, I learned the duratac 315/70R17 is actually 34.4" and 12.7" wide per the goodyear website. Or, put another way, .4" smaller and .2" WIDER than a BFG MT KM2.

The question is, will the somewhat smaller, yet wider tire rub at either full compression or full wheel turn.

Not trying to be an ***, but I did research this a bit before posting here.



Cheers,

granger
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:25 PM   #8
grangerdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
3" or less you will not have drive shaft issues.

My 2007 had 315/70-17 BFG AT tires which I ultimately replaced with the same size Duratracs. The Duratracs were better in virtually every single way except wear. The BFG's wore like iron compared to my Duratracs showed noticeable wear rather quickly. I still have the Duratracs and they will go on my 2014 whenever I get around to getting the lift installed.

The brand of wheel is of no consequence. The measurement is what matters. Pick your favorite wheel 17" X 9" with 4.5" backspacing and you will be good with 315/70-17 tires. The Duratracs run on the small side, so the 2.5" lift will be fine. Trim the pinch seam. It is worth noting that my 2007 definitely needed to have the pinch seam trimmed but my 2014 is made different and the pinch seam does not stick out in the way therefore no trimming needed. It is like it came pretrimmed.

Also worth noting is many lifts give a little more height than advertised because the manufacturer is accounting for heavy bumpers, winch, etc.

The main thing is to stick with a reputable brand. Install the track bars and brackets loose, with the Jeep in the air. Make adjustments and tighten everything with the Jeep on the ground. This will help you get your axles centered. If this axles are not centered, you will have death wobble. It may take a few changes of underwear before you get rid of the death wobble. With centered axles, setting the toe, checking caster, and proper torque, you will avoid soiled underwear. When I had my 2007, I would keep a spare set of underwear in my glove compartment. It was that horrible until I got it figured out.
Great information and thank you very much!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
The brand of wheel is of no consequence. The measurement is what matters. Pick your favorite wheel 17" X 9" with 4.5" backspacing
The pintler wheels are only 8.5" wide. Not sure how much of a difference that will make?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prot View Post
When I had my 2007, I would keep a spare set of underwear in my glove compartment.
great quote.

btw, same color 2014 I am working with. Copperhead Pearl is a great choice!
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:27 PM   #9
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I'm running exact same set up on 2013 JKU - stock bumper and fenders - with no issues. Just installed the AEV Dual Sport and have the 315/70/17 duratracs on Mickey Thompsons Classic Baja Lock 17x9 wheels with 4.5" back spacing (zero offset). The duratracs are 34.4" actual size in diameter. No other mods needed (re: pinching seams, etc referenced above). I did re-gear from 3.21 to 4.56 to compensate for added weight of tire. Mostly because I'm in hilly/mountains a good bit.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:42 PM   #10
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AEV Pintler wheels are listed on AEV website as 5.2" backspace. I am thinking that's a rub on the control arms unless the the AEV lower arms are curved in enough to avoid rub.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:45 PM   #11
grangerdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaFu View Post
I'm running exact same set up on 2013 JKU - stock bumper and fenders - with no issues. Just installed the AEV Dual Sport and have the 315/70/17 duratracs on Mickey Thompsons Classic Baja Lock 17x9 wheels with 4.5" back spacing (zero offset). The duratracs are 34.4" actual size in diameter. No other mods needed (re: pinching seams, etc referenced above). I did re-gear from 3.21 to 4.56 to compensate for added weight of tire. Mostly because I'm in hilly/mountains a good bit.
Awesome, thanks!!!
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Unread 01-08-2014, 08:46 PM   #12
grangerdw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
AEV Pintler wheels are listed on AEV website as 5.2" backspace. I am thinking that's a rub on the control arms unless the the AEV lower arms are curved in enough to avoid rub.
Nice catch. Anyone have experience with these wheels, or at least ones with similar backspace?
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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:06 PM   #13
PapaFu
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Weird. Their site also lists the offset as +10mm. On a 8.5" width, zero offset should be 4.25" backspace with +10mm equal to 4.62" back spacing?? For what it is worth, the owner of the shop that did my work put the same AEV 2.5" lift on his wife's JKU and said she has the Pintler wheels as well. Not sure which wheels, but he mentioned she had 35s.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:13 PM   #14
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You will eventually have driveshaft issues. It may take longer to manifest itself at only 2.5", but eventually you will need at least a new front shaft.
I suggest doing more research on tires before drinking the Duratrac kool-aid. I had them, but won't run them again, ever.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:19 PM   #15
PapaFu
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How are the tires going to contribute to drive shaft issues (vs another tire of same size/weight)?
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