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Unread 10-18-2013, 10:06 PM   #1
Mfrancis
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Advice for after lift upgrade list

I would like some opinions of what my list should be after adding the AEV
2.5" dual sport lift. I planned on putting on the geometry corrections brackets as well. I know things like ball joints will go quicker after adding 35s, but I what I am referring to in this thread are things like drag link, tie rod, track bar, and anything else I am missing. I want to make everything as bullet proof as possible. What order would you place these things as far as in what order to upgrade them?

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Unread 10-18-2013, 10:32 PM   #2
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I have the 3.5" lift on 35s. For the most part I just replaced what wore out first. But this left me ordering a new part (or a few) every month or two.

I did sleeve/truss/gusset the front axle first, and installed synergy ball joints. When I went to reinstall the axle, the front track bar frame side bracket was ovaled out and the inside of the bushing sleeves were destroyed by the bolts that were undersized and threaded the full length. I first ordered a synergy front track bar, frame side brace with sector shaft brace, and suspension bolt kit. Handling was great, for a little while. But the steering quickly got worse again and I was adjusting the toe every wheeling trip to make it drive straight. Synergy tie rod was next.
That worked for a few thousand miles more. Then the drag link got soft and sloppy. So I replaced it with a synergy drag link.

For the 2.5" lift, first recommendation is an adjustable front track bar to center the axle and firm up the steering. HIGHLY recommended is the synergy full suspension bolt kit and a cam bolt eliminator kit (may be included?) for the front lower control arm axle ends. The frame side brace for the track bar is a great idea too.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 11:11 PM   #3
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^Great info. I actually just finished opening the synergy bolt kit I picked up today to make sure it was all there. I'm one of those measure twice cut once kind of guys. The cam eliminator was not included as I hoped it would be. I'll order it tomorrow from Northridge. I am swapping out the bolts tomorrow. This will be my first go around with seeing up close and personal how everything works under there, looking forward to it.

Looking back, would you still have done all the axle strengthening first? I only ask because I am living in an apartment right now and won't be in a house with a garage until next summer. I don't want to tackle a job like that until I have a garage at my disposal. I definitely planned on upgrading to an adjustable track bar, and beefier tie rod and drag link, as those are easier and bolt on.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 11:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfrancis View Post
^Great info. I actually just finished opening the synergy bolt kit I picked up today to make sure it was all there. I'm one of those measure twice cut once kind of guys. The cam eliminator was not included as I hoped it would be. I'll order it tomorrow from Northridge. I am swapping out the bolts tomorrow. This will be my first go around with seeing up close and personal how everything works under there, looking forward to it.
IIRC, the cam eliminator bolts are included with the AEV geometry correction brackets. Just thought you should know.
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Unread 10-18-2013, 11:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psycho-X-Jeep

IIRC, the cam eliminator bolts are included with the AEV geometry correction brackets. Just thought you should know.
You might be right on that. The correct washers came with something, I just don't remember what. Could have very well been with the aev stuff, they just supply the worst instruction ever so it was much later that I came across the correct washers in my bag of extra parts.
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Unread 10-19-2013, 04:01 PM   #6
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Do you need the cam elimintor kit? If i remember when i lifted my 2012 it did not have cam bolts in it from the factory. I know my LCA bolts are currently in without cams on them now. RK 2.5 max travel kit is what i put in if you were wondering.
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Unread 10-19-2013, 04:33 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motoguy1251
Do you need the cam elimintor kit? If i remember when i lifted my 2012 it did not have cam bolts in it from the factory. I know my LCA bolts are currently in without cams on them now. RK 2.5 max travel kit is what i put in if you were wondering.
Well the factory bolt is sitting sloppily in a square cut hole as is. If you think it's a good idea you can leave it.
Torque alone is (or isn't) keeping it from shifting around and tearing the hole bigger, as well as the threaded bolt eating up the inside of the bushing sleeve. I personally have taken many ongoing steps to tighten up everything is the suspension in steering with great results.
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Unread 10-19-2013, 05:05 PM   #8
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Unread 10-19-2013, 06:51 PM   #9
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Unread 10-19-2013, 07:26 PM   #10
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Adjustable front Trackbar. Ball joints and tierods later.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 12:42 AM   #11
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Thoughts, please.


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Unread 10-20-2013, 07:35 AM   #12
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If the drag link kit can be used with less than 3.5" of lift. I would choose the Synergy kit as it can be used alone or flipped when you go above 3.5".
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Unread 10-20-2013, 10:09 AM   #13
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The truss and C is the not really needed for most people. Unless you are JUMPING a jeep or doing fast desert crossings. or have the need to use to much right foot when slow was needed.

First off if the jeep sees little off road time and you do not live were dirt roads abound. You may get a few miles out of all the front end on 35"s. Do not just start welding on stuff and buying expensive parts if it WORKS.

Now the ball joints and tie rod ends drag link all the ball type joints stock are weak. on road they hold up ok with the plastic sleeve no grease fittings. I wore the lower out in 15K and changed them at 20, should not have waited too. But we wheel a lot and rather hard stuff. So seems like anything that will break does in the end anyway.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 10:26 AM   #14
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drag link flip on a 2.5 probably isnt necessary, but would help. you will also need to rais the track bar mount if you go this route.
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Unread 10-20-2013, 11:21 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maertz
drag link flip on a 2.5 probably isnt necessary, but would help. you will also need to rais the track bar mount if you go this route.
^^^ correct, very important point. Draglink and Trackbar should be kept as parallel to each other as possible for best results.
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