 |
|
|
09-09-2012, 06:53 AM
|
#1
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Durh, NC
Posts: 7
|
Yesterday, when trying to engage my 4WD on my '07 JK, the 4WD got stuck in Neutral and left me stranded. The 4WD shifter moves forward and backward with no resistance, making me think something has become dislodged in the shifting mechanism. Of course this happened on a Saturday afternoon when all of the shops were closed. I had a friend with a P/U truck pull me home - very embarrassing!!! Any ideas about what the problem is and whether I can fix it or if it really needs to go to a shop for repair? I am hoping it is a cheap fix.
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 07:51 AM
|
#2
|
|
Registered Voter w/ID
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 836
|
The problem is probably a small plastic retainer nut is broken that links the transfer case handle to the linking mechanism to the transfer case. It is a $.05 piece, available at the Jeep dealer. My dealer gave me a few extras for free in case it breaks again.
I had mine break, and had to get it towed. PITA. It's a pain to reach up there to install, just do it while the tranny/transfer case is cold.
I'll look for a thread that shows pics of it and post here if I can find it.
__________________
2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto, Detonator Yellow, dual tops.
RK 2.5" Max Travel lift, Fox 2.0 shocks, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, Black Rock Viper Series 900 wheels, 5.38 gears, Synergy ball joints, Sleeved and gusseted front axle.
River Raider full skid plate system, GlowShift Vacuum/Boost & Oil Pressure gauges. RR stubby front bumper, Poison Spyder Rock Brawler rear bumper w/tire carrier, Warn VR8000-S winch.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger, Cobra 75 CB w/4' Firestik, Yaesu 7900R 2M/440 Ham radio, Tuffy security boxes, 60" Hi-Lift.
www.georgiacrawlers.com
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 07:52 AM
|
#3
|
|
Gold Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 6,865
|
Cheap little clips for the linkage. They cost fifty nine cents. Well documented on this forum.
Advanced Adapters make a replacement shift linkage that is much better but sells for about $180.
__________________
2007 Black Unlimited Sahara, Black Hard Top, Khaki Soft Top, Khaki Interior, 3" Black Diamond Springs and sway bar links, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, Helo Black Maxx 6 17 X 9 wheels, Goodyear Duratrac 315/70-17 Tires, Poly Peformance High Steer Kit, Poly Performance Upper and Lower Front and Rear Adjustable Control Arms, Poly Performance Rear Track Bar Bracket, Poly Performance Chromoly Tie Rod, Offset Upper Ball Joints, Mopar Front and Rear Bumpers and Skid Plate, Warn 9.5ti winch, ARB High Output Compressor with tire inflation kit, PIAA 510 SMR Fog Lights , Silverstar Headlights, Front Rancho 9000 shocks, Rear Bilstein 5100 series shocks, 5.13 gears, Kenwood DNX9990HD, Infinity 6020CS, Infinity 6022si, Alpine MRP-F250, JBL P1024, Alpine MRP-M650
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 07:53 AM
|
#4
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 760
|
You've experinced the impact of a piece of high quality Chrysler engineering: The dreaded transfer case cable clip has failed. In their infinite (cheapskate) wisdom, Chrysler decided to secure the cable at both ends with a cheap combination plastic bushing & clip, which just pushes over the lever pins on both ends. At the t-case it's locted right by the exhaust and unable to handle the heat and force necessary to move the t-case lever. The clip breaks and the cable pops off the lever. The fix is pretty simple, go to a dealer and get a clip, put it in the "eye" at the end of the cable and push it over the pin on the transfer case lever. Done, fixed...for now. It will eventually fail again, so buy a bunch of those clips. A better fix is to cut the clip part offf with an X-Acto knike, leaving just the bushing. Put that into the eye on the cable and slide it over the lever pin. Put a tight fitting washer over the pin and hold the entire thing in place with a small "E" clip. I've fixed several of them this way and none have to date failed. BTW, it will eventually break inside the console at the shift lever, which is a MAJOR PITA to get to. The same fix works on both ends.
I had this same thing happen on a remote trail. Fortunately for me it broke just as it went into 2 hi. I did the fix noted above, then a couple years later it broke inside the console. I gave up on the factory pile and and bought the Advance Adapters slick cable kit. No more problems, much better shifting. Unfortunately, $200 fix.
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 08:00 AM
|
#5
|
|
Registered Voter w/ID
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 836
|
__________________
2008 2-dr Rubicon, auto, Detonator Yellow, dual tops.
RK 2.5" Max Travel lift, Fox 2.0 shocks, 37" Nitto Trail Grapplers, Black Rock Viper Series 900 wheels, 5.38 gears, Synergy ball joints, Sleeved and gusseted front axle.
River Raider full skid plate system, GlowShift Vacuum/Boost & Oil Pressure gauges. RR stubby front bumper, Poison Spyder Rock Brawler rear bumper w/tire carrier, Warn VR8000-S winch.
RIPP Gen 2 Stg 2 Supercharger, Cobra 75 CB w/4' Firestik, Yaesu 7900R 2M/440 Ham radio, Tuffy security boxes, 60" Hi-Lift.
www.georgiacrawlers.com
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 08:27 AM
|
#6
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: nashville, tn
Posts: 114
|
I had the same thing happen to me and left me stranded in the woods. I promptly purchased the advanced adaptors heavy duty transfer case able and never looked back. 4 wheel parts is where I bought mine from. One of the greatest upgrades I have done to my jeep! Good luck buddy!
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 12:22 PM
|
#7
|
|
Rockbiter
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kunsan AB, Republic of Korea
Posts: 1,799
|
This happened to me on a trail once. I crawled under the Jeep and spotted the linkage had come loose from the t-case. I just placed the loose end of the linkage back on the pin and secured it with about 2 yards of safety wire wound about it in figure eight fashion. I had intentions of replacing the bushing or purchasing the advance adapters cable, but the linkage has never failed me since. You can also crawl under there and manually push the t-case back into drive by the way, no need to be stranded by this. You just won't have any control from the cab.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by 00JGC00
Meh. Jake's is longer. I've seen it...
|
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______________________________________
/l ,[_____],
l----L-OlllllllO-
()_) ()_)-o-)_)
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 04:20 PM
|
#8
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 760
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrails
|
Yeah, close, but I use an "E" clip that fits tightly on the indent in the lever pins. Either away is better than stock, which is trash.
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 05:14 PM
|
#9
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Durh, NC
Posts: 7
|
Thanks
Everyone,
Thanks for the quick responses. It seems as though you are spot on. I am going to try to get it back into 2wd to get to a hardware store tomorrow to get parts to fix it.
|
|
|
09-09-2012, 05:29 PM
|
#10
|
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Mebane, NC
Posts: 736
|
Yah has happened to me a few times. The worst is when the console fails. But if it is on the transfer case, best thing to do is grab a friend, reach under the jeep, put the loop on the shift post and hold it there while your friend shifts it into 2wd for you. Of course this is much easier to do when the jeep is not hot as crap. Then go buy a clip from Chrysler and replace it. I actually used a brass bushing and a C clip and it hasn't failed yet...
__________________
09 JK Jeep Green Sahara Unlimited / Teraflex 2.5" Spring/Shocks 34" Nitto Trail Grapplers / Aussie Locker Front / 5:13's
previous Jeeps:
07 Commander 4.7L
04 GC 4.0L
98 Cherokee
My Build Thread:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/w...hread-1231661/
|
|
|
09-10-2012, 10:53 AM
|
#11
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Durh, NC
Posts: 7
|
Update
I took out the console last night and confirmed it was the bushing that failed. I went by Auto Zone at lunch today and got the parts for just over $14 to replace with metal bushings, e-clip, and hitch pin. Hopefully, I will have time to complete the repair tonight or tomorrow.
|
|
|
09-10-2012, 02:18 PM
|
#12
|
|
Web Wheeler
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Long Island, South Hempstead, NY
Posts: 1,553
|
This should not leave you stranded. It happened to me in a blizzard, my friend wiggled the shifter for me while I was under the Jeep. I was able to see where the cable connected and shifted it by hand. Drove it to the dealer two days later and had them fix it. Purchased about 10 extra's for the trail in case anyone in my group breaks one.
__________________
Ex - 2001 Wrangler, 2" BB, 32" BGF AT's. JKS Quicker Disconnects, Oil Pan Skid, Steering Box Skid. Hard Top, Soft Top, Safari Top, Olympic Mountaineer Rack.
Current - 2008 Unlimited Wrangler Rubicon. Rock Krawler Stock Mod 2.5" lift, 35x12.50x15 Cooper STT's on Pro-Comp D-Windows, Husky Floor Liners, Mastercraft Grab Handles, Weathertech Side Window Deflectors, Hitch mounted D-Ring, Rancho Oil Pan Skid, Rugged Ridge E-Disco Skid, and a Skid Row Evap Canister Skid plate.
It is better to keep one's mouth shut and be thought a fool.... than to open it and remove all doubt.
|
|
|
09-10-2012, 05:09 PM
|
#13
|
|
Gold Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 6,865
|
If you decide to upgrade, here is a link, for better linkage
http://www.quadratec.com/products/12521_8002.htm
__________________
2007 Black Unlimited Sahara, Black Hard Top, Khaki Soft Top, Khaki Interior, 3" Black Diamond Springs and sway bar links, Rancho Steering Stabilizer, Helo Black Maxx 6 17 X 9 wheels, Goodyear Duratrac 315/70-17 Tires, Poly Peformance High Steer Kit, Poly Performance Upper and Lower Front and Rear Adjustable Control Arms, Poly Performance Rear Track Bar Bracket, Poly Performance Chromoly Tie Rod, Offset Upper Ball Joints, Mopar Front and Rear Bumpers and Skid Plate, Warn 9.5ti winch, ARB High Output Compressor with tire inflation kit, PIAA 510 SMR Fog Lights , Silverstar Headlights, Front Rancho 9000 shocks, Rear Bilstein 5100 series shocks, 5.13 gears, Kenwood DNX9990HD, Infinity 6020CS, Infinity 6022si, Alpine MRP-F250, JBL P1024, Alpine MRP-M650
|
|
|
09-12-2012, 01:31 PM
|
#14
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Durh, NC
Posts: 7
|
Easy fix
I competed the fix last night in just a few minutes. I used a brass bushing that came from a door hinge bushing set from the "HELP!" section at Auto Zone. I held it in place with an E-Clip and a hitch pin for extra security. Taking the knob off the 4wd shifter was the most difficult part. The best directions for getting it off came from another post on this forum. It said to use an 8 inch crescent wrench and a hammer. I wrapped the knob in a towel, tightened the crescent wrench on the shaft under the knob (I used a 10 inch crescent), then started hitting it with a hammer. On the third hit, the knob came off.
|
|
|
09-13-2012, 11:34 AM
|
#15
|
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 760
|
Nice job. FWIW, when removing the t-case shift knob I've had the best luck using a small ratchet strap looped over the rear cage crossbar and a hook under the knob. RAtchet the strap slowly and the knob will pop right off. It may come off with some force, so stay clear.
|
|
|
|
|