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Unread 10-06-2013, 08:04 PM   #16
AEVBrute
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Originally Posted by 73azbronco View Post
So should I go back and request springs to match the lift I paid for, 3"? Remember, the 3" point is expensive land with mandatory need of driveshafts. Pushing 4" just doesn't pass the common sense test if I paid the dealer to give me 3", not almost 5.
Bronco,

Be prepared for them to argue that most products have wording to cover them, like "average" or "depends on many variables no two vehicles are the same"

You mentioned that you went with Teraflex, see the verbage that I copied from their 3" typical short arm lift. It says it is a net 3" product but then at the end they say "but 4" if a 2 dr".

Read some of the other Teraflex descriptions, one says that with a 4" net -drive shafts are mandatory. Use it to your advantage because you are right, financially the 3+ world is a different ball game.

One of the beauties of the JK is that 2.5 and even budget boost lifts etc will clear 35's and that is what most people are striving for.

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JK Wrangler 3" Suspension System w/ 4 FlexArms

SKU: JK 3" w/ 4 FlexArms


This system includes a 3" lift kit, shocks, front lower FlexArms and rear upper FlexArms, front swaybar disconnects, rear swaybar links, rear trackbar bracket, bumpstops and all necessary hardware. This kit will allow you to run up to a 35" tire (aftermarket wheels with 4.5" backspacing or less are required). Fits all JK Wranglers including Rubicon and Unlimited.


Will provide an average of 4" of lift on 2 door JK models.

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On another note I had a brand new Ram 2500 that sat over and inch and a half down on one side. After hours of labor and head scratching we removed the stock springs to find that one was 1.75 inches shorter than the other but they had the exact same part number. The part num in that case slides on the spring and someone must of been having a bad day and put the wrong tag on the wrong spring. Unreal!!

In the TJ days a suspension company would quote conservative and then when you got more lift they would say what a deal, no extra charge. The JK's are the opposite, you barely need anything to run a 35 especially if you are not a hard core off roader but when you are forced to replace drive shafts or start blowing up t-cases and u joints etc the extra lift is not free it is now additional costs.

I ran past 37's and could probably run a 39 but I went in to it knowing I would incur the additional costs, we base our decisions on many variables one of which is our wallet and we should get what we expect for the money we budgeted.

Read the Teraflex site and use that info to beat up the dealer and make them put some shorter springs in so you can stay away from shaft changes or get out the check book and a ladder.

I agree any bumper or winch etc is not going to move an after market spring more than a couple mm's so don't expect additional weight of that or spring settling to cause any asthetic changes.

Check out this link, I run this on top of a Teraflex Long Arm on a 2 dr.

http://jksmfg.com/i-8938566-wrangler...il-spacer.html

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Unread 10-06-2013, 08:31 PM   #17
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The JK Rubys are very capable vehicles, I would do axle sleeves and gussets before drive shafts.
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Unread 10-06-2013, 11:04 PM   #18
73azbronco
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Still waiting on delivery of bumpers, winch and armor, then I'll remeasure.
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Unread 10-08-2013, 04:58 PM   #19
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You are going to be buying new drive shafts then, see the note on the Teraflex site. No bumper and armor are going to bring it down 2 inches
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Unread 10-08-2013, 05:27 PM   #20
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Agreed.
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Unread 10-08-2013, 07:17 PM   #21
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Just read this entire thread. What exactly is the reason one must change drive shafts when going over 3"? Is it a durability issue or an alignment issue, or a combination of both? I am thinking of doing the AEV 2.5" dual sport, and I have heard that gives more than advertised as well.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 06:05 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfrancis
Just read this entire thread. What exactly is the reason one must change drive shafts when going over 3"? Is it a durability issue or an alignment issue, or a combination of both? I am thinking of doing the AEV 2.5" dual sport, and I have heard that gives more than advertised as well.
The problem is the factory driveshaft joints, especially 2012-14 can't handle the angle and at a certain point of lift they become too short. The taller the lift the longer the driveshafts.
With 2.5" lift you will be fine.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 07:10 AM   #23
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I see. That makes sense. I tried a search but only found people telling others they would need to change them. Is that a job a shop would have to do?
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Unread 10-09-2013, 08:23 AM   #24
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Two points on what I found with shafts with lift, first, the front one as it is lifted, starts to come into contact with the exhaust, so the rubber boot breaks down and allows the joint to be exposed reducing life. Second, the angle as the lift goes up increase chance of failure. Length of shaft is minimally changed with these lower levels of lift.
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Unread 12-06-2013, 12:47 PM   #25
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Alright, a month after adding all the weight of steel bumpers, winch, under armor (about 250 up front and 200 in the rear) my suspension drooped a whopping, wait for it,......... 1/4 inch. I even had the women jump up and down into the jeep and it was not a measurable event beyond 1/16 to 1/8th inch, She felt good about that. Telling me, the spring rate is really high.

I'm now sitting 4 plus inches front lift and 4 in the rear fully loaded and after flexing system on some light to moderate trails.

35s do not rub full flex on the stock fenders. Yes, I'm in Az and word is keep the height but reality is, I'm not going to run level 4 trails. Wife already gives me the "YGBFSM" look on level 3 when I point the jeep toward an obstacle.

So, my cobbled together lift of various teraflex parts using 4dr 2.5 inch springs to get 3.5 inch lift on A 2dr, has resulted in a rough riding 2dr with 4 inches of lift. Fully loaded. I think my spring rate is jacked to stiff for a 2dr and I should go back to a 2dr rated spring to get me back down to 3-4 inches vs over 4. This will solve my ride and height issue and short term let me keep the stock driveshafts till I get some funds saved.

I heard teraflex is actually coming out with 2dr springs vs using 4 dr in shorter height? But I have not seen anything in writing on their website, in fact, they sell springs based on how much a 2/4dr will lift any given spring, meaning, if you have a 2dr, your buying a 4dr spring with higher/stiffer rate. This is unacceptable in any sense of the term "quality engineering".

Any other spring recommendations to get 3 inches on a 2dr and not end up with 2 ton pickup truck feel? I had a 4dr JKU, and it was fine, four door springs on a two door are just to firm. Hoping to get you alls comments before going back to installer for ideas.

That and load range E tires but that's another thread.
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Unread 12-06-2013, 01:45 PM   #26
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I hate to say this but as a Fellow az Jeeper. Get the drives shafts not that much. You have good set up for here. Did not read if this is a Rubi or not but Locked and you could do up to 4,5 if you can stand the damage the body will take. its the lenght they gets us 2D here on the 4"s. I run some and some i winch or at least have a tag line so i do not end up on the top off a water fall.


Stock the zappa joint in the drive shaft will die a fast death. I would bet the boot inside this joint is failing as we type. It is worth it to have that much lift here period or you will be belly up on some 3"s I know.

My 2d Rubi is at 4.5 front and 4.5+/5 rear on a 3.5 lift after two years.(i have no back seat/top/ or hard doors The jeep is a mixture of parts now but the springs are AVE and the track bar brackets still have survived 1 Az 4.5 though some of the other parts had issues
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Unread 12-07-2013, 03:33 PM   #27
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Thanks for info, Rubicon option yes, was thinking of buying some takeoff shafts for $100 to go as spares in the short term.
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