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Unread 01-19-2014, 03:54 PM   #1
Rubicon-Mark
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2013 Rubicon Synergy Suspension Issues

Hello and thanks for reading the post.

Have some fairly serious issues after I installed my new suspension.

What I added:
3' Synergy springs (these are the dual rate springs)
Bilstein shocks
Synergy track bar
Synergy ball joints
Sleeved and gusseted the front axle
Warn front bumper and winch
Smittybilt rear bumper and tire carrier

Wheels/Tires 17' Ion wheels with 35x12.5 tires

Off road the Jeep has been great, on road it's been terrible. Has gone into 2 death wobble's when going over small bumps on paved roads, only course of action was to slowly apply the brake, this was at 40mph and was quite violent, thought I was going to go into the ditch. Also, the truck constantly wanders as if it's not aligned properly. Have gotten 2 wheel alignments, has not fixed the problem, possibly the new ball joints are not broken in yet?

Also feels as though there is no shock absorption on paved roads which is kind of what I think is causing the death wobble.

Looking at the equipment I have, am I missing important things or have I gone the incorrect path for this vehicle? Jeep has been at an alignment shop for the past week, they are trying to figure out what is wrong with it, so far no luck though.

Thanks for any help


Last edited by Rubicon-Mark; 01-19-2014 at 04:11 PM..
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Unread 01-19-2014, 04:41 PM   #2
awinski
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sounds like an issue with the track bar mount. pretty common for them to wallow out and get the effect you're experiencing. also if you didn't get new lower control arms you're caster is going to be off.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 04:49 PM   #3
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awinski is correct in saying that the most common culprit for DW is a loose or worn track bar or track bar mount. See Planman's post on DW for a lot more into, I think it is in the FAQ section. Also, at 3 inches of lift, without adj front control arms your caster will be too small and result in excessive wandering...costs money to go to 3 inches...start a fund for new drive shafts now.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 05:10 PM   #4
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I'm going to agree with above. Flighty steering with no caster correction. Death wobble is more than likely an issue with the new track bar either not being torqued properly or one (or both) of the mounts being wallowed out.

I would suggest adjustable lower front control arms, the synergy full suspension bolt kit, and their frame side track bar brace.

When the lift was installed, all of the suspension bolts SHOULD be loosened and then retorqued at the new ride height to prevent preload in the bushings. Also, go ahead and look for play/check torque on the drag link and tie rod ends. A good technique is to have a friend slowly turn the steering wheel back and forth a small amount with the jeep running, and you look from underneath. This will usually show you where exactly the play or looseness is if you watch carefully.

I have the full synergy steering setup on my 2012. Ball joints, tie rod, drag link, track bar, track bar/sector shaft brace. I did one upgrade at a time as things wore out. It seemed like replacing one crappy factory piece with a nice solid piece, just wore the factory parts out even quicker.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 06:54 PM   #5
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Get the synergy high steer kit and chromoly tie rod. Have a look at your track bar bracket. Loosen and retorque all suspension and steering nuts and bolts with the vehicle sitting on the ground instead of on a lift. With my 2007, I eventually replaced all eight control arms with adjustable ones from synergy. The synergy arms can be adjusted without having to disconnect the end like most other adjustable arms.

The main thing that is causing your death wobble is that your axles are probably not centered. This is corrected with bracketry and adjustable trackbars.

Also check your tire pressure. Most people over inflate 35" tires in a JK. You should be running somewhere around 29 pounds.

Verify your shocks are not leaking and are not defective. I went through shocks on my 2007 including a few sets of bilstein's. I ultimately ended up with a set of Rancho 9000xl adjustable shocks on the front as a last ditch effort to cure death wobble woes that plagued it for four freaking years before it finally got 100% resolved.

Search for planman's thread that explains everything in great detail including highlighted pictures.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 08:22 PM   #6
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I agree with all the above and would add that Synergy suggests their high steer kit be used on the 3" and above lifts. Which would consist of the raised track bar bracket and drag link flip. This will get your travk bar and drag link parallel with each other again.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:47 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoss View Post
I agree with all the above and would add that Synergy suggests their high steer kit be used on the 3" and above lifts. Which would consist of the raised track bar bracket and drag link flip. This will get your travk bar and drag link parallel with each other again.
also improves the roll center a lot. by keeping both closer to level. some people have had trouble on the install though drilling out that tre for the flip.

note the needed back space too: for the tie rods its not shaped like a stock one. i think its 4.5 MIN on 17"rims. i know they work on 15" rims with 3.5-3.75 Bs. as well. though very tight.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:07 AM   #8
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Down side to Synergy's (or any) high steer setup is the required 3" of bump stop they require for clearance. 3" bump stops are overkill for only 35" tires.


Fix your caster with lower control arms first.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE
Down side to Synergy's (or any) high steer setup is the required 3" of bump stop they require for clearance. 3" bump stops are overkill for only 35" tires.

Fix your caster with lower control arms first.
3" bumps are not overkill for 35s with stock fenders. I have 3" bumps and 35s and it will stuff the tires right up to the stock inner fender. With 2" bumps I would rub without question.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:52 AM   #10
ferninaz
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Synergy makes a dual rate spring, I thought they only had progressive rate springs?
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Unread 01-20-2014, 09:52 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjw View Post
3" bumps are not overkill for 35s with stock fenders. I have 3" bumps and 35s and it will stuff the tires right up to the stock inner fender. With 2" bumps I would rub without question.

If you have 3" bump stops, your 35" tires are far from "stuffed".

Considering with the right setup you can run 37's with as little as 0"-1" bump stop in the front and 2.5" bump stop in the rear, I would consider 3" for 35's overkill. Especially when you take into consideration how short many of the lift coils are for a 2 door JK. In many cases, you would be running a 3" bump stop on a coil that is not much longer than a stock 4 door 18 coil spring. (Synergy and MetalCloak have longer coils for the 2 door)

Some people don't have a problem bump stopping all of their travel away. On the other hand, some people try to build their suspension to get the most functional and useable travel out of it.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 06:35 PM   #12
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i run 35s on 2.5 bumps with a flipped drag. No problems here at all. On mine the 2.25 or less is where my drag link hits the frame. 2" bumps and cut fenders is about perfect, im losing about 1/2 of uptravel due to the drag link flip. it would be harder on my steering box, but i see no reason why one couldnt make a drag link with a bend to allow more uptravel. Id rather do that then notching the frame.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 07:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE

If you have 3" bump stops, your 35" tires are far from "stuffed".

Considering with the right setup you can run 37's with as little as 0"-1" bump stop in the front and 2.5" bump stop in the rear, I would consider 3" for 35's overkill. Especially when you take into consideration how short many of the lift coils are for a 2 door JK. In many cases, you would be running a 3" bump stop on a coil that is not much longer than a stock 4 door 18 coil spring. (Synergy and MetalCloak have longer coils for the 2 door)

Some people don't have a problem bump stopping all of their travel away. On the other hand, some people try to build their suspension to get the most functional and useable travel out of it.
I typed a couple of paragraphs and decided to erase it. You troll here and work so hard to derail threads, and I don't want to be a part of it.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 07:25 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by brianjw View Post
I typed a couple of paragraphs and decided to erase it. You troll here and work so hard to derail threads, and I don't want to be a part of it.

Derail huh?

I've seen people on this forum here throw the high steer setups on without being aware of the 3" required bump stop or any knowledge of the relation between the drag link and trackbar.

I'm not the one that recommended a high steer setup on a Jeep with the bare minimum lift needed to clear the required 3" bump stop that's only running a 35" tire. Seeing as the OP was unaware of the need to correct the caster, I'd be willing to bet the OP is also unaware of the requirements of a high steer setup. especially seeing as he just bought shocks and an adjustable trackbar that may or may not be compatible with the trackbar bracket or the 3" bump stops.

Only wanted to mention the other requirements of the highsteer setup (along with what 222doc already pointed out) before parts where bought and thrown at the Jeep without complete thought. The high steer may help, but I don't feel it's the next step to be taken. There are plenty of JK's with 3" of lift that are not running a high steer setup that do not have death wobble.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:26 PM   #15
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I think you were referring to my post where I reiterated Synergy's suggestion of using the drag link flip and track bar bracket at 3" and over. Sure people get away with out doing it but ot doesn't mean it's correct. I feel it would really need to be determined by the actual amount of lift generated by the coils but he is using Synergy springs.
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