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Unread 02-18-2014, 04:48 PM   #1
2013JK4Rubicon
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2013 JKU Belly Skid

An open forum question here friends. My 10-A Rubicon needs some help
around her midsection. Any reccomendations on skidding her front to back please. And more importantly why. Your input is very welcomed

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Unread 02-18-2014, 05:46 PM   #2
mrwhipple
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I went with aluminum skids. Plenty beefy, much lighter than steel and they won't rust. I've beat the crap out of mine and they're holding just fine.

River Raider, ASFIR, TNT Customs all make great aluminum skids.

If you're looking at steel skids: JCR, River Raider, Rock Hard, M.O.R.E are all great companies. OrFab is releasing a full set of skids in a couple of months I believe. They're really nice. TNT might have steel versions as well.
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Unread 02-19-2014, 12:52 AM   #3
ben_badassjeeps
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We've got a few options for you to think about...

First up is this JK Transfer Case Skid, in 1/4" Aluminum from Genright:



Going this route will give you about an 1-1/2" of extra ground clearance. It's a big investment as you won't be able to use the stock gas tank in its existing location. Going with this setup, your best bet would be to ditch the stock tank and run the matching Genright tank to go with it. This whole setup would set you back $1799.98 and is only available in aluminum.

If you spent the same money on a RiverRaider setup, you'd end up with something like this:



This system is available in Steel or Aluminum. The image and link above is that of the aluminum version. Weighs in about 73 pounds and can also be upgraded to include RiverRaiders UHMV polyethylene panels that are designed to slide over rocks and obstacles. The aluminum version pictured above would be in the same ball park as the Genright option at $1724.99. Your clearance gains are roughly the same as the Genright system, but you gain the addition of a not just a transfer case skid, but also a gas tank skid, oil pan skid, transmission skid, evap skid and we even throw in a fumoto oil drain valve. Basically bolt it up and go wheel.

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Unread 02-19-2014, 01:18 AM   #4
HOKIES2010
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Going through this process as well. So far I have narrowed it down to JCR and Clayton since I am not going with Aluminum. If I were to go Aluminum I would either go with Genright or ASFIR. Also tyring to figure out if I want to change out the factory cross member. It seems to get banged up really easy. Clayton, OR-FAB, Synergy and Poison Spyder are just acouple that make HD cross members. The OR-FAB one is supposed to raise clearance and the Syngery has the skid built in with te crossmember.

I really like the way Clayton and JCR are designed. I have alot of JCR stuff and their quality is top notch and they are cost effective plus they have really good customer relations. Brian is the one I catch on here. I contacted Clatyon to make sure their skids would work with my JKUR since I am not using their long arm kit. I would do the same if you like them, I talked to Alex through here on JF and he was very helpfull. Neither one of those make a gas skid yet. I havent commited on that yet anyways. I know Clayton was in the R&D phase last time I checked.

These things can range huge in price. That went into my steel choice. Affortable options can be had in the steel range from the EVO protek to the JCR skids or you can go all out aluminum.

Hope it helps

And does anyone have any thoughts on the rear driveshaft/diff skid AEV makes? I haven't hung my rear diff on anything yet but that would seem like it could go bad if you did.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 07:13 PM   #5
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I too am in the process of deciding on a skid system for my '13 JKU. I have been holding out for the Nemesis Industries unit which has been in R&D for some time now. Honestly, my patients are about to run out and I'm going to pull the trigger on another manufacturer soon if Nemesis doesn't deliver soon. I also understand that Artec is about to release a complete steel version soon. They would be another brand I would consider. Hoping to make a purchase soon.
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Unread 02-21-2014, 10:05 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben_badassjeeps View Post
We've got a few options for you to think about...

First up is this JK Transfer Case Skid, in 1/4" Aluminum from Genright:



Going this route will give you about an 1-1/2" of extra ground clearance. It's a big investment as you won't be able to use the stock gas tank in its existing location. Going with this setup, your best bet would be to ditch the stock tank and run the matching Genright tank to go with it. This whole setup would set you back $1799.98 and is only available in aluminum.

If you spent the same money on a RiverRaider setup, you'd end up with something like this:



This system is available in Steel or Aluminum. The image and link above is that of the aluminum version. Weighs in about 73 pounds and can also be upgraded to include RiverRaiders UHMV polyethylene panels that are designed to slide over rocks and obstacles. The aluminum version pictured above would be in the same ball park as the Genright option at $1724.99. Your clearance gains are roughly the same as the Genright system, but you gain the addition of a not just a transfer case skid, but also a gas tank skid, oil pan skid, transmission skid, evap skid and we even throw in a fumoto oil drain valve. Basically bolt it up and go wheel.

Looks like I'll be saving up for the RiverRaiders setup... that setup is awesome
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Unread 02-21-2014, 11:08 PM   #7
mrwhipple
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It is sweet.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 08:31 AM   #8
2013JK4Rubicon
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I agree the GENTRIGHT looks great, leaning towards the RR setup. pics coming soon.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 09:43 AM   #9
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i think that pic of the RR is old design. Its one piece now. were that one is two. Getting to oil is not clean even with the access panel. most go to a "fumoto valve. to make it a celan and simple job. Now my valve went bad this last oil change noticed it was leaking the slow drip.

If you have a Auto i would wrap the Ypipe if its still under the trans pan(2d no choice). once you close up that area with a skid. I have no #'s on how hot that makes the oil. but my intuition says its enough, off road crawling in rocks to create as much added heat to nullify the coolers ability. That ypipe gets very hot, after i wrapped it the pipe is no longer baking that area.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 09:47 AM   #10
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I'm not a fan of aluminum skids, had a cobble stone go through one on a VW TDI, notorious for low slung oil pans, I believe a steel skid would have prevented the $1000+ bill that ensued.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 10:04 AM   #11
Maertz
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id personally make my own..id use aluminum and possibly uhmv also. if i recall a 4x8 sheet of 1/4 aluminum is under 200 bucks and you could cover probably everything you wanted.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 10:30 AM   #12
2013JK4Rubicon
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hey Maertz....is that you volunteering to come down to Capitan and help me do that?
We have lots of National forest to cruise around in afterwards.
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2013 10A JKU ANVIL - Metal Cloak (MC) GC & 6-Pak shocks, MC Overland innner & outer Fenders, rock sliders and lower body armor,5:13's, ARTEC Axle Truss, 3 piston SS calipers,Tom Woods 1310 shafts, MT 37" ATZ-P3's, SPOD, Genisis Dual Battery Holder & Isolator w/ dual Optima's, Warn 9.5 CTI-S & Pro Link, ARB CKMTA12 w/ CMM ARB Compressor Underseat Mount, Rigid Industries 40" E-2, 2-SRQ's out back, 4-D2 drivers up front, XRC Atlas rear bumper and tire carrier, GOBI Rack, Truck Vault w/110V power inverter & ARB 50QT
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Unread 02-22-2014, 10:40 AM   #13
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This thread is relevant to my interests...next mod will be full skid replacement. I really want to go aluminum (the freakin' JKU is heavy enough as it is), but will Al hold its own in the rock gardens of SoCal? I feel like I might just have to buy the parts again in a couple seasons.

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Unread 02-22-2014, 10:59 AM   #14
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The aluminum will hold just fine. No worries.
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Unread 02-22-2014, 01:54 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 2013JK4Rubicon View Post
hey Maertz....is that you volunteering to come down to Capitan and help me do that?
We have lots of National forest to cruise around in afterwards.
Lol where u at?!
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