After a grueling 3-day weekend, this is as far as I got (3.5" RK Mid-Arm Flex System, Bilstein 5100 series shocks, RK front spring clips, RK rear spring wedges, 35x12.5x17 Nitto Trail Grappler MTs on 17x9 Fuel Kranks (-12mm offset/4.5" backspacing):
The weekend didn't go as smoothly as I would have liked. My boss was gracious enough to let me have Friday off to get started. I had started taking videos to edit later, but after the 2nd hiccup, I decided to not take any more photos because I wanted to get through the install. Only 3 years ago, I put this same lift on our 2010 JKUR, and don't remember running across as many, um, "challenges" as I did this time around. Since RK does a good job with the instructions, I'll just call out some items that may help others. I can only speak to our new 2013 JKUR 10A. I don't know if this will be the same for other year models...
As I started to disassemble the front (raise Jeep by axle, support frame, remove wheels/sway bar links/track bar/shocks/front stock drive shaft/brake line bracket at base of spring perch), lower the axle slowly and check for enough slack for lines for electric locker, brakes/ABS lines, and breather tube). I first noticed the brake lines are routed differently than our old 2010, and runs through a bracket at the base of the front springs. I made note of this and remembered to pull the brake lines back when installing the new shocks so that it would be easier (and less messy) when swapping out the lines for the braided stainless steel. Also, if you're using the front spring retaining clips, you won't be able to re-use that bracket as the bolt/nut would make contact with it (driver side).
While the Jeep was on all 4 tires, I made note that the pinion angle was already somewhat pointing upwards towards the transfer case. This was different than the 2010, in that it was more horizontal with the ground than pointing up towards the t-case. After installing the RK lower control arms on the 2013, I wasn't able to use the "recommended" settings, and ended up collapsing most of the arm to make it as short as possible. Even with this, the pinion angle was pushed down to a more horizontal position to the ground. I had to call this morning to order RK adjustable uppers to correct the angle so that the Tom Woods driveshaft will work (haven't order the driveshaft yet, but will in the next few days).
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU to RK for using zerk fittings for grease instead of the prior "hard-to-access-without-taking-off-the-control-arm" allen nut to access the fill point for the 3-in-1 lube. On that note, while others will dispute this, I opted to point the zerk fittings down rather than up (easier to access without having to remove the arms for re-greasing). Yes, I realize that for the front lower arms, this puts the zerk fittings at a greater risk for trail damage, although for most the time, it should be out of reach for the trails I typically do. Also, THANK YOU for including rear steel braided brake lines with the kit--last time around, it only came with the front.
The passenger side upper shock mount.... REALLY??!! The 2010 was a LOT easier to get to, but the 2013... geez. The fun part was trying to figure out the washer/rubber bushing configuration on the Bilsteins that would allow for installation. The closest I got was to wedge the washer at an angle on top of the bushing, and push down hard to get the nut started. Then wrenched it, 1/4 turn at a time. Before installing the shocks, know what length they are when fully extended. Use this measurement to check how far your axle will drop at full extension, and check all lines and tighten up the slack if needed.
Be sure you know how to drill through steel--not sheet metal, but thick steel so you don't go through several drill bits (drilling required for the front 3" Synergy bumpstop spacers I used (mounts to base of spring perch) and the front spring retaining clips). Measure and mark SEVERAL times... you only get to drill once! The RK front sway bar link upper bolt required the factory sway arm to be drilled out to 1/2"--the factory bolt was a size M12 (the sway arm (IIRC) is hardened steel--slow RPM drill speed with motor oil to keep the heat down is key here). Also, if you're using the RK front spring clips, I opted for the next size shorter Grade 8 bolt. On the passenger side, where I determined I needed to drill, the bolt is just a tad too long and makes contact with a metal surface underneath.
When tightening the connection of the steel braided brake line to the Jeep line (more so on the passenger side), use your finger to follow the metal brake line where it goes behind the the shock tower--make sure the line is not touching the shock tower. If it is, bend it slightly to allow for space between the line and the back of the tower.
Lastly, be sure ALL bolts are torqued to spec while the suspension/axle is in the "normal" position--meaning, as if the Jeep was on its own wheels on the ground.
....I think that does it for the front.. now for the rear...
If you're using the RK rear track bar bracket (requires welding), you need to drill a hole on top of the factory mount. Do yourself a favor and raise the Jeep (and support it correctly), and drill from the bottom up. Sure, hot pieces of metal shavings will eventually find its way to your skin, but there isn't a whole lot of room to drill from the top even with the axle dropped all the way (I have a Ryobi drill... electric drills may clear a little better). In my case, I researched and found that I wanted to use the Teraflex rear track bar bracket, as it does not "require" welding. This uses a u-bolt around the axle, and connects to the inside bolt of the lower driver rear control arm. However, the Teraflex bracket did not fit flush against the bracket for the lower control arm, nor did the bolt holes line up. I called Quadratec this morning, and we are trying another unit to see if it was a bad bracket I got. It should arrive before this weekend. For the time being, I had to install and use the RK bracket.
When dropping the rear axle, watch the ABS electrical lines, the breather tube, electric locker lines and parking brake lines. I also opted to unbolt the brake line mount (where it attaches to the frame) to give more slack.
If you plan on using aftermarket wheels that are not hub-centric, I'd recommend spending a few bucks on a set of hub centering rings. It helps with pre-centering the wheel prior to installing the lug nuts. Also, check the back of the aftermarket wheels. If the lug holes are flush with the mounting surface (not recessed), be sure to remove the annoying little metal retaining discs you'll see on some of the wheel studs. This WILL prevent the wheel from mounting correctly (perfectly flush).
Once everything is installed, don't forget to program in the tire size (measurement to be taken with the weight of the Jeep ON the wheels and tires--for example: I have 35" tires, but when on the Jeep and on its own weight, it measured at 34" tall). Also, be sure to check and realign your headlights!!!
Granted, I didn't spend all 3 days (Fri, Sat, Sun) all day. This included a few runs to Home Depot, a run to Discount Tire, and time to work through some of the unplanned challenges that came up.
So for this weekend, I plan on trying the replacement Teraflex rear track bar bracket to see if it fits. I also need to install the rear steel braided brake lines. I also need to finish installing the Teraflex tire carrier and figure out how I want to mount the 3rd brake light. I then need to install the Synergy drag link flip kit (which requires the use of the Synergy front track bar relocation bracket). If I can get all this done this weekend, then the following weekend will be the install of the Cobra 75WXST and antenna and time to recheck all the bolts. I'm hoping for a shake down run in early November...
I'll take more pics in the upcoming days and post them here.
*edit* I also forgot to mention that I needed to cut 1" off the end of each slider to allow room for the 35" tires at full compression--after cutting, I sprayed the ends with black "truck bed" coating, let it dry, re-drilled a new pilot hole for a plastic retainer to hold the end caps in place..