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Unread 07-24-2013, 10:58 AM   #16
zenman
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Originally Posted by 1222 View Post
Personally I would start it here (this forum not thread). You will get a lot more activity in this JK specific forum. The choice is yours though. Also, if you already have a thread started in the Build Forum and would like it moved here to this forum just send me a PM and Iíll move it for you.
PM sent.

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Unread 07-24-2013, 12:37 PM   #17
BlkOpsRubi
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Congrats ... Very nice Jeep, and I really like the dark interior. I though the 10A only came with the red of which I'm not a huge fan. I look forward to seeing the build progress.
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Unread 07-24-2013, 01:57 PM   #18
aznjeep
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Originally Posted by BlkOpsRubi View Post
Congrats ... Very nice Jeep, and I really like the dark interior. I though the 10A only came with the red of which I'm not a huge fan. I look forward to seeing the build progress.
It seems early on, red was the only color choice for the interior. Not sure when they added the black interior option, but red leather isn't for me. If red was still the only choice, I would have stayed with our 2010.

Update: Starting this Friday, I will be installing the homemade grill inserts, the aFe exhaust, and if it arrives on time, the Volant intake system. I already recorded stock sounds from outside and inside the vehicle. I need to do some editing on those clips and cut out the parts that aren't needed to shorten them up. I'll record the sounds after the exhaust install, then after the addition of the Volant intake. Hope to have this all done by Saturday night. It may be Sunday night before I'm done with all the editing to post the sound clips.
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-24-2013, 02:10 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by zenman View Post
PM sent.
I'm gonna look you up and Crawl your thread.. I'm always open to new ideas and new/better ways to get something done...
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:46 PM   #20
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Homemade Grill Inserts (JK) - Write Up

Finally got around to getting the homemade grill inserts done. Here's the write up for it. For those that would rather just watch the video, here's the link:
Just keep in mind that this is my first "self-video", and I'm not too terribly comfortable on camera...

Anyways, supplies needed (for how I did mine):
-Aluminum gutter guards (3 - 6" x 36" pieces cut to 3" x 12".. if you want more "buffer" room, cut them to 3.25" x 12", but 3" is the absolute minimum for width)
-40 zip tie anchors (1" x 1")
-40 zip ties (get the ones that are "releasable", in case you have to undo a zip tie
-Gorilla Super Glue
-Kilz primer
-Automotive black enamel paint
-Automotive clear coat

Tools Needed:
-Dremel or drill with dremel piece (or sandpaper) to "score" the contact surfaces
-Small flat head screwdriver (small piece of electrical tape is optional)
-Wire cutters to cut excess zip ties



Start with removing the adhesive backings off the zip tie anchors. Based on your timeline, you may want to start this a few days in advance, as it takes a bit of time to get all of the backing off. You will want a clean surface for the glue to bond correctly.



I then cut the inserts to 3.25" x 12", and made 9 of them. This way, I'll have 2 for "backup" if needed, or for replacement/repair down the road. I then sprayed 2 coats of primer, 4 coats of black enamel, and 4 coats of clear coat. REALLY make sure you are in a well vented area when spraying the clear coat. I could handle the black enamel... but that clear coat is some wicked stuff--gave me instant head aches after every coat in the garage with the door half open, and the side door open all the way.





At this point, it would be a good idea to wash your JK grill. This will help prevent unwanted scratches on the paint for when you have it off the grill and laying down on the ground. To remove the grill, there are 6 plastic rivet/anchors that you will use a small flat head screwdriver to pry up on the center piece of each one. Once popped up, you can use your fingernails or the screwdriver to dig out the anchor. If you want to preserve your paint, wrap some electrical tape on the end of the screwdriver, or just be really careful.



Once these anchors are off, you'll want to disconnect the wire harnesses for the turn signals.



There are 4 plastic clips along the bottom of the grill. Grab firmly, and pull outwards. Then, there is a clip behind each turn signal. Grab firmly close to it, and pull. The grill should now come loose completely for removal.






Once the grill is out, lay out the zip tie anchors on the back of the grill so you get an idea of where the mounting points will be. I used 5 anchors for each "slit". You will notice that the middle 3 will not fit flush with the grill, and will sit up a bit. You can either grind each of these down, or trust Gorilla glue. I would be advisable to etch/score/scratch the contact surfaces (both the back of the grill and the anchors themselves) to ensure a strong bond. For the ones that don't fit flat against the surface, I simply etched/scored the 2 opposite sides of each anchor, and used a dremel but to roughen the surface of the grill where the anchor would go. Once etched, it's time to glue. As with most any super glue, a little goes a long way. As a precaution, I wore gloves. And for one anchor that slipped my fingers, I was glad I was wearing gloves.




Allow a full 24 hours of bonding time (leave the grill off the Jeep). After 24 hours, check each anchor with a light to moderate "pull" test with your fingers. If any of them pop off, you will have to clean the surfaces and re-glue, and wait another 24 hours for full curing. I'm guessing I prepped everything right, because they all bonded well this time. With the 2010 a few years ago, I had to re-do some of them. Start at one end of the grill, and lay out an insert. Loosely install it with a zip tie. You will need to find the "center" point of the insert, and see which hole will be best for the zip tie. In general, I used either the holes right along the edge, and sometimes had to use the one next to it. Whichever you use, be sure it won't be visible from the outside of the grill. Don't tighten the inserts until you have loosely secured the next 2 inserts. This allows room for movement and shifting as needed.



Continue until they are all installed. Be sure not to over tighten the zip ties. They should only be tight enough to have the inserts contour the grill. Any tighter, and you'll risk having a "rough" looking grill from the outside (the zip ties and anchors will show as "stress" points on the grill. This is a lesson I learned from installing these on the 2010. Also, be sure the zip tie "lock" is as close to the inserts as possible. This will help prevent them from being seen from the outside of the grill, and will help with clearance when reinstalling the grill. After they are tightened, cut off all excess zip ties.




After this is all done, reinstall the grill in reverse order: Push along the bottom of the grill to get the clips to lock, insert the plastic anchors along the top, re-connect the turn signals. Here is the finished product:




If you have any questions, let me know. Thanks!!!
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #21
zenman
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Good presentation. I did the same on my 2012 Sahara except just used black plastic gutter guards. You just wanted to get "high" didn't you, lol!
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Unread 07-28-2013, 05:57 PM   #22
aznjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zenman View Post
Good presentation. I did the same on my 2012 Sahara except just used black plastic gutter guards. You just wanted to get "high" didn't you, lol!
LOL.. It was an unwanted side-effect. That clear coat is something nasty. If I ever have to paint again in the garage, I'm getting a mask next time.
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-28-2013, 10:30 PM   #23
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aFe MACHForce 2.5" Hi-Tuck Cat Back Installation - Write Up

I also got around to installing the aFe MACHForce 2.5" Hi-Tuck cat back on Oscar this weekend.

As reference points, here are clips to compare the sounds of before and after (on YouTube):

Stock exterior exhaust sounds

Stock interior exhaust/intake sounds

Sound clips for post-install are at the bottom of this write up.

For those that would rather see the video of the install, it's here:
aFE MACHForce 2.5" Hi-Tuck Cat Back Install

What you get from aFe:
-Instructions
-Hi-Tuck muffler
-Mid-Pipe (resonator delete)
-Over axle pipe
-3 exhaust clamps
-aFe sticker


What you need:
-Pry bar
-WD40
-15mm wrench (for the factory clamp nearest the y-pipes)
-15mm deep socket (for the factory clamp nearest the muffler)
-17mm deep socket (for all 3 new clamps that come with the aFe kit)
-18mm socket (for the 4 bolts on the transfer case skid plate)

This really is a straight-forward install. When removing the exhaust components (for cat-back), it's easier to work from the back of the Jeep forward, and use some WD40 to lubricate the hangers/isolators for easier removal. I started by loosening the clamp at the muffler, just after the axle.


Then, I removed the muffler hanger from the isolator on the driver side. This allowed more movement (after separating the pipe connection after the axle (the clamp I just loosened) to work the muffler hanger out of the isolator at the exhaust exit (passenger side).

Once the muffler was removed, I loosened the clamp at the y-pipe connection (by the way... not much room to work here, and all I had to use with the 15mm wrench--I couldn't get a socket to fit):


Then worked to remove the hanger from the isolator just in front of the axle:


I then realized this job would be much easier if I remove the transfer case skid plate, and did so. Once that was out of the way, it took a bit of WD40 and patience to get the hanger out of the isolator nearest the y-pipe. Once that came out, I was ready to install the new set up.


Installation was pretty easy. Just don't forget to slide the clamps on before assembling on the Jeep. I connected the mid-pipe and hung it on the isolator. I then connected the over-axle piece, and hung it on the isolator. I then connect the muffler piece, and hung it on its isolator. At this point, do a little twisting and flexing to make sure you have at least 0.5" to 1.0" clearance on all body parts. Only at this time should you work to tighten down all the clamps. Start the Jeep, and listen for "spitting" at the connection points after about 30 seconds to a minute. If you hear this "spitting", it's a good indication your clamps are not tight, or your pipes are not straight enough, and it's leaking. It's a good idea to check the clamps after the next 100 miles or so. Also, it is normal to smell the "new burn-in smell" after it gets hot.




Here are the sounds for after the install:

aFe MACHForce 2.5" Cat Back - Exterior Sounds

aFe MACHForce 2.5" Cat Back - Interior Sounds

Let me know if you have any questions.. Thanks!!
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-28-2013, 11:33 PM   #24
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Volant PowerCore "Cool" Air Intake Install - Write Up

Another thing I did this weekend was install the Volant PowerCore "Cool" Air Intake system.

Before the debate starts of "To Intake, or Not to Intake???", here are the main reasons I chose this particular system:
-Mostly closed intake box
-Donaldson's PowerCore filter (cylindrical kind that has more surface area than the standard pleated filters, 99.97% filtration efficiency, dry synthetic material is naturally water resistant, under "normal" use can last 4 years 100k miles before servicing)
-Added a pre-filter to help keep water and excess dust off the filter to prolong the life (with the haboobs and monsoons we get here, I figured it could use the help)
-Does not require cutting of the factory inlet tube/square (I want to retain the factory set up--just in case)
-No, I did not get it on the Dyno for pre- and post- results
-To each their own, right?

Also, as a reference point:

Stock Interior Exhaust/Intake Sounds

And if you'd rather watch a video instead of reading all the below:

Volant PowerCore Intake Install on JK 3.6L

Here's what you get with the setup:
-Intake tube with connection points for the vent tube and air temp sensor
-2 silicon connection sleeves (the smooth one goes on the throttle body side, and the "bump" one goes on the airbox side)
-4 clamps
-Donaldson PowerCore filter with clamp
-Airbox


First thing I noticed was that the Volant airbox didn't have any drain holes. I helped myself and drilled 2 small pilot holes:


Here's a pic of the engine bay "before":


I started by removing and retaining the 2 bolts that are holding the reservoir tube:


I then worked to disconnect the air temp sensor (just the connection part.. not actually removing the sensor itself):


I then disconnected the vent/breather tube:


I then loosened the clamp on the intake tube at the throttle body:


Then loosened the clamp at the airbox:


Then, release the 4 hinged/clamp things on the airbox itself. Lift up on the airbox cover, and the whole unit should could come out with ease, leaving the base of the airbox. The base of the airbox simply pulls upward--there are 3 rubber grommets at the bottom that are holding it place. Just pull firmly.

For the install of the Volant box, I left all 3 rubber grommets on the Jeep. The Volant box will only use 2 of them. Before putting the Volant box in, remove the bolt that is/was between the TICM/Fuse box and the factory airbox. This bolt will be used to help secure the Volant box:


Next, I wanted to make sure I took the time to remove the air temp sensor carefully. On the factory intake tube, turn a quarter turn counter clock-wise--if you look, there is a slight "lock" in place. Once turned, gently wiggle and work it out.. straight out.. not crooked, but straight. Once I got it out, I immediately installed it onto the Volant intake tube to protect it. The Volant tube already has a rubber grommet installed. Simply (and gently) twist it into the grommet. The sensor has a rubber o-ring on it (mine was green). When inserting the sensor into the new intake tube, be sure NONE of the green is still showing on the outside. I pushed it in just a hair further to make it somewhat "flush" on the outside.


Next, work to install the "smooth" silicon sleeve onto the Volant intake tube (the side closest to the air temp sensor--which is the throttle body side). After realizing it wasn't going to be easy, I used just a little bit of WD40 for lubricant. MUCH easier after that. Be sure to slip on 2 of the clamps. Also, install the silicon sleeve with the "bump" (or "hump"?) onto the other end (airbox end), and slip on the 2 clamps. Next, work to fit the sleeve on the throttle body, then the connection to the airbox:



I then installed the PowerCore filter:


After realizing that the pre-filter is easier to install when the filter is out of the box, I removed the PowerCore filter, installed the pre-filter onto it, then re-installed it into the airbox:


Connect the air temp sensor connection:


Next, connect the vent/breather tube. This required a little twisting to re-route the tube to ensure there was no bind or touching of any hot parts:


After all this is done, install the cover for the airbox:


At this point, use 2 cable/hose "bolt" clamps to secure the reservoir tube close to the original location using the original bolts:


That's pretty much it. Here is a video of the interior sounds with the Volant intake system (keep in mind you'll also hear the aFe exhaust as well in the video clip).

Volant PowerCore Intake and aFe MACHForce Cat Back - Interior Sounds

Let me know if you have any questions.. Thanks!!
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-29-2013, 03:27 AM   #25
1222
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Wow, terrific write-ups and excellent pics.

Still liking the color plus it got me thinking of the Navy; kinda battleship grey with clear coat.
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Unread 07-29-2013, 06:41 AM   #26
bhoch
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Nice Mods. Great write-ups!
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Unread 07-29-2013, 07:28 AM   #27
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Excellent write up - Wish I was there helping you build this thing up.
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Unread 07-29-2013, 09:22 AM   #28
aznjeep
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Thanks for the feedback.. I didn't realize it was that much work to re-size pics, upload them somewhere, then link it to the post (I haven't figured out how to directly upload pics in a post in order, and that allowed for typing between them). Anyways.. as 1222 mentioned, the best way I describe the color is "battleship gray". Funny you said that!
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-29-2013, 09:37 AM   #29
aznjeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ustabearenegade View Post
Excellent write up - Wish I was there helping you build this thing up.
DUDE!!! How ya been? You know, I still give you props for teaching me most all I know today. I'll be in Austin in mid-August, and will be in Houston around Thanksgiving time.. hope to see ya then!
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'13 JKUR 10A "Oscar" Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2.../#post15712025
'10 JKUR "Saffi" (sold) Build Thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/m...saffi-1183819/
'99 TJ "L'il Pepper" (sold)
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Unread 07-29-2013, 11:53 AM   #30
zenman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aznjeep View Post
Thanks for the feedback.. I didn't realize it was that much work to re-size pics, upload them somewhere, then link it to the post (I haven't figured out how to directly upload pics in a post in order, and that allowed for typing between them). Anyways.. as 1222 mentioned, the best way I describe the color is "battleship gray". Funny you said that!
Are you using photobucket? Sometimes I'll just drop the links into Word and write in between pics, then copy and paste it here. You could just do that here though.
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