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Unread 10-29-2013, 07:56 PM   #1
73azbronco
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2013 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 518
2013 JKR lift, exhaust extension, skid plate issue

I'm trying to install my engine skid plate which attaches from engine area to flush onto the transmission crossmember/mount. Since I have a teraflex 3.5 inch lift with exhaust extension parts that drops the exhaust crossover pipe slightly below the tranny mount, the exhaust pipe is now to low to attach the skid plate flush.

I called manufacture of skid and news to them that the exhaust extension causes interference. I'm leaving name of manufacture out of this as they have been very helpful and I looked at five other skids and every one of them would have an issue like this.

I called teraflex and they say, yes, the pipe will drop below the cross member, and recommend I buy a thinner driveshaft and remove the exhaust extension. I wish I had the extra $800 right now. So that option is out.

My fix was to place a 1/8th inch washer under the pass side bolt (original bolt for forward tranny skid bar to crossmember) which drops the skid enough to clear the pipe. This is a short term fix to get me drive able again. The skid is held flush to the crossmember by the other two bolts used to attach the rear transfer skid to the crossmember. My issue with this is the rear of the skid is now not flush with the crossmember and angles down and buzzes during accel which I fixed by stuffing a piece of rubber under the exposed skid. Needless to say, if I ever have to back, this exposed lip will grab a rock or such.

Anyone else had an issue with skid plates and exhaust extensions?

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Unread 10-29-2013, 08:07 PM   #2
brianjw
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2012 JK Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hillsboro, Or
Posts: 1,364
Maybe I can help.


First, an aftermarket dual cardan 1310 driveshaft is typically $450, not $800.

Second, with a 3.5" lift you're going to destroy the cv joint boot on the transfer case side of the driveshaft. Not if, but when.

Third, afe makes an exhaust y pipe that move the cross over behind the transmission crossmember. $350-390. Almost as much as a drive shaft, which you WILL need in the future.

Fourth, just get a new drive shaft.

If you get one from Tom woods make sure he supplies it with spicer u joints and not the crap gold seal u joints.
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Unread 10-29-2013, 08:12 PM   #3
73azbronco
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: scottsdale, AZ
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Ok, done deal, beside Toms, what other driveshaft do you recommend, and I need one good to 75 mph.

I used $800 figuring I'd be needing front and backs....
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Unread 10-29-2013, 08:18 PM   #4
222Doc
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If its a 4door no the back should do ok till you hit an AZ rock then it will fold like wet noodle. best at 3.5 to replace.

On mine i still needed both spacers and Toms to get a thumbs clearance at full drop. Now the spacers should not push the system down? I have a good 1/4 to my River Raider. You did shorten the pipe rear by cutting that pin and slipping it back?
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Unread 10-29-2013, 08:29 PM   #5
73azbronco
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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It was done by installer, so I know not what you speak by saying cut it back?


Btw, I have a 2dr. And the rear shaft is seriously angled....
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Unread 10-29-2013, 09:04 PM   #6
brianjw
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Hillsboro, Or
Posts: 1,364
Quote:
Originally Posted by 73azbronco
It was done by installer, so I know not what you speak by saying cut it back?

Btw, I have a 2dr. And the rear shaft is seriously angled....
Yeah you'll want both driveshafts on a two door. And you'll need adjustable control arms in the back to get the pinion angle right.

I have had good service from Tom woods, I just think the gold seal no name u joints aren't built to the same spec as spicers. His driveshafts will basically be like the others, except they will replace the yokes on the transfer case ends rather than adapters or flanges (to get more length/lower angles). No cheap u joint caps just solid machined parts. Mine was smooth as silk up to 85+ for 15k miles. After replacing one of the u joints with a spicer it is much better again.

But look around, other people sell driveshafts as well. It seems like it might be nice to use a yoke at both ends rather than a flange on the axles, which would make the driveshafts even longer. But I am no drivetrain expert so don't take my word for it.

And yes the exhaust spacers push the exhaust cross pipe down. Back and down. The spacers bolt to the bottoms of the cats or down pipes which are angled down.

I installed a y pipe before the driveshaft. So I can't say for sure that the driveshaft would have cleared with stock exhaust either. But it seems that most people indicate that is does normally...?
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