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Unread 01-15-2012, 10:55 AM   #1
smooth9883
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2012 JKUR Build

Hi Guys,

I've decided I'm not going to buy a vett this year and I'm going to upgrade the JK. I need some advice and hopefully some examples of where I should go.

Here is what I have:

2012 JK unlimited Rubicon
5 speed auto
3.73 gears
stock 32" tires
hard top
tow package

Here is what I want to do:

Front & rear bumper with tire carrier and winch
AEV Pintler wheels in argent
35" good year MTR's
Re-gear to 4.88 or 5.13, not sure what would be best
Lift Kit

So here are my questions:

1) Can I re-gear from the stock 3.73 to a 4.88 or 5.13 and still have the use of the stock e-lockers?

2) What is going to happen to the jeep when I re-gear? Drivability?

3) This is my daily driver what is the best ratio to use so I don't kill my MPG but still have more than enough power? Keep in mind I live in CO and drive up to the mountains frequently.

4) Which lift kit should I use? I've read before that a 2.5" BB will give me all the tire clearance I need for 35's. AKA no rub. My objectives are this. Keep the lowest CG possible. Not have to mess with drive line angles. This is my daily driver so it needs to drive comfortably. I will wheel about once every other week but nothing hardcore. I would like more clearance but I should get that from going to 35's and also by have a small lift. So what do you recommend? Oh, I don't want to go long arm, a little out of the price range.

5) Will doing all of this void my warranty?

6) Has anyone done this in a 2012? If so, how does it drive? How does it look? Can you post pictures? I'm sure this is not an uncommon setup and I'm not reaching for anything amazing here.

I want to do this, but I want to do it the right way.

Thanks for the help guys!





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Unread 01-15-2012, 12:54 PM   #2
1222
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I can probably help with a few of your questions. 5.13ís was/is the norm for í07Ėí11 JKU Ďs with 35ís but not with the new engine and auto of the 2012ís. For instance, I have 35ís and 4.10ís and there is absolutely no need to re-gear my Jeep. Now with you being in all those mountains then perhaps 4.56 gears would suit you better, maybe even 4.88ís but donít take my word for it.

Your lockers are unaffected by a gear change

The mpg is what it is, just live with it.

Now, before you jump the gun and start mods, do your research first. Check other forums besides this one and write down important tidbits that you can go over and make an informative decision.

As far as lift size goes your going to get as many answers as there are lifts, thatís why I wont recommend any. Thatís where the research comes in handy. Also check out the FAQís section, lots of info there too.


FAQís (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/j...reads-1074059/)
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Unread 01-15-2012, 03:26 PM   #3
smooth9883
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Thanks for the info. I agree that I'll get a lot of differing answers on the lift so I'll help narrow it down. What is the proper kit to lift 2.5"? Meaning, new control arms? Springs? Shocks? What is the proper way to do it?

Keep in mind I'm putting bumpers front and rear on with a winch.
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Unread 01-15-2012, 06:17 PM   #4
smooth9883
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So here is what I'm thinking of ordering. Any comments? I really like the XHD front bumper but with the pre runner she is really pricey. The SB has the same look but is much cheaper. Any thoughts on the SRC?

Also, I'm planning on getting a tire carrier for the rear bumper and am thinking of going with the RR tire carrier. Any thoughts? Am I crazy going with a 8,000 LB winch and thinking a snatch block will make up for it being on the lighter side? Should I just spend the extra money? I don't wheel hard but I'm willing to put myself in a spot where I need to get winched out. I just want to have a little fun.

I'm pretty sure I'll go with the terra flex 2.5" coil lift with shock extenders. The website says to go with that if you have a RUBI. I'm a little nervous about the lift and bigger tires. I've been reading on the forum and there has been a lot of talk about not being able to regear to 4.88 or 5.13 due to computer problems. Does anyone know if this is possible yet? Also, how much does it usually cost to regear if I were to have a shop like 4wheel parts do it? Would I be able to have 4 wheel parts do the regear, put on the new wheels and tires and then drive it home and I can put on the lift kit myself? I'm not sure if 35's will fit with no lift for a drive on the highway.

Any advice you guys have is appreciated!

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Unread 01-15-2012, 06:42 PM   #5
1222
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I donít have any personal experience with those bumpers but Iím sure others will chime in and give you their thoughts.

As far as the winch goes 8000 is probable acceptable but if it were me I would go with a 9500 instead. Winching is not something that you should skimp on. Sure, a snatch block will work but do you really want to go through the extra work rigging it up? Also it will shorten the reachable length of whatever you plan hooking up to.
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Unread 01-15-2012, 08:54 PM   #6
C2U5H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smooth9883 View Post
So here are my questions:

1) Can I re-gear from the stock 3.73 to a 4.88 or 5.13 and still have the use of the stock e-lockers?
The AEV ProCal is worked out for the 2012's except for a few non-related features (DRLs, etc). If you regear, you'll be fine.

2) What is going to happen to the jeep when I re-gear? Drivability?
The power and characteristics that you lost when you went to the larger tire size will be restored, and you'll most likely see an increase in MPG.

3) This is my daily driver what is the best ratio to use so I don't kill my MPG but still have more than enough power? Keep in mind I live in CO and drive up to the mountains frequently.
Honestly, give the 3.73 gears a try with the 3.6L. I haven't gone to a larger tire size yet, but others find the power still very useable without regearing, especially with the automatic's close and short ratios.

4) Which lift kit should I use? I've read before that a 2.5" BB will give me all the tire clearance I need for 35's. AKA no rub. My objectives are this. Keep the lowest CG possible. Not have to mess with drive line angles. This is my daily driver so it needs to drive comfortably. I will wheel about once every other week but nothing hardcore. I would like more clearance but I should get that from going to 35's and also by have a small lift. So what do you recommend? Oh, I don't want to go long arm, a little out of the price range.
2.5-3", slight fender trimming and 1.5" wheel spacers (if you're reusing the stock wheels -- if not, get wheels with 4.5" backspacing or less) should be all you need. Personally, I think I'm going with a Rock Krawler 2.5" and trim the fenders ... but this is a highly subjective topic. Go with your gut and the reviews say.

5) Will doing all of this void my warranty?
Not unless the dealership can prove how and which vehicle modification caused the component malfunction or failure, per the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.
That's all I can help with, good luck with the build!
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Unread 01-16-2012, 05:47 PM   #7
smooth9883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C2U5H View Post
That's all I can help with, good luck with the build!
Thanks for the feedback! I just got off the phone with high country 4x4 and they are going to take a look at my requests and send me a quote. The guy on the phone actually recommended not rehearing as well. I'm really curious about this. I don't want to stress anything on the driveline by not re-gearing.

Any thoughts? I'm getting super excited!
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Unread 01-16-2012, 05:54 PM   #8
JJAMISON_
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nice Rubi! good luck on your build and keep us updated with pics of the progress!
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Unread 01-16-2012, 07:58 PM   #9
C2U5H
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smooth9883 View Post
I don't want to stress anything on the driveline by not re-gearing.
Nope -- you're not adding any stress to components by not regearing. Though, if you do plan on wheeling at all, you really should consider beefing the upper- and lower-C's on the front axle up ... maybe even throwing a sleeve kit on the tubes (click here). This prevents the axle tubes and C's from bending under the added stress of the 35's (more leverage). Some have bent stock axles with the stock 32's (and yes, I'm talking about the Rubi D44)!

There's no need to throw a bunch of unwarranted mods on ... drive your new ride through the passes in CO with the 35's ... if you need more power, regear. Simple as that!
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Unread 01-16-2012, 08:22 PM   #10
MountainMan864
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If you were going to buy a vette then why are you worrying about MPGs and buying ****tybuilt crap? Please support USA products and buy quality products. Good luck on your build then. Some people actually get better MPGs when going with 5.13 gears and 35s/37s.
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Unread 01-16-2012, 10:05 PM   #11
NoQuarter121
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I have a 2012 rubicon unlimited.

37's (Goodrich)
5:13's

I turn 2700RPM +- at 70MPH

The rig is peppy enough, but no powerhouse.
I like power and I like to go fast, the 12 is sposed to be much stronger than previous years.
Its no powerhouse...

I like the 5:13's.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 12:55 AM   #12
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If you were going to buy a vette then why are you worrying about MPGs and buying ****tybuilt crap?...
I do believe the vette Z06 gets around 24-26 mpg on the freeway.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 02:18 AM   #13
HOKIES2010
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I do believe the vette Z06 gets around 24-26 mpg on the freeway.
I got 28 MPG on the HWY in my 06 (non-Z06)
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Unread 01-17-2012, 07:29 AM   #14
MountainMan864
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But but the offset of buying a vette you could put half into the jeep and half into the bank for repairs/maintence/gas.
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Unread 01-17-2012, 07:32 AM   #15
HOKIES2010
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But but the offset of buying a vette you could put half into the jeep and half into the bank for repairs/maintence/gas.
It is funny because I decided to get rid of Vette to save some money since it wasn't payed off. I owed 30k on the Vette and by March I will have over 50k into my JKUR.
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