2009 JKU exhaust leak - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-10-2016, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
Wpeschel
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2009 JKU exhaust leak

I recently purchased a 2009 JKU. I knew it had a exhaust leak from the drivers side when I bought it.

Come to find out the drivers exhaust manifold was cracked. I replaced the manifold and all was good for about a week, then I noticed it sounded like there was another leak. I found that the passenger side exhaust manifold was cracked as well.

I replaced the pass side, but the problem is that i still hear a exhaust leak coming from the drivers side of the engine bay. It's there upon first start up until the about 15-20 min of run time.


I checked the bolts an they're all tight. I'll be pulling the drivers manifold sometime this week to see if I can find the leak. Is there anywhere else on the drivers side it could be leaking from?

I hope my new exhaust manifold isn't already cracked.

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-11-2016, 06:11 PM
SoK66
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If you're certain the manifold bolts are torqued to spec (you should retorque at 50, 100 & 500 miles), I'd suspect the two downpipe bolt / captive nuts are either loose, unevenly torqued or etc. 20 ft lbs is the spec, can be an SOB to get to. I used a long extension with a wobble socket.

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-12-2016, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
Wpeschel
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Here is the update. This manifold was bought on the 3/23/16 and installed the day it came in the mail 3/30. Never dropped and torqued per specs 24 foot pounds. It started leaking about a week later. Waiting on the manufacture to determine if they want to refund my money after I sent them pictures.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-12-2016, 02:17 PM
radioouman
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What brand are the manifolds?

1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport, 4.0 liter, 3 speed auto. Sold!
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Rubicon
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-13-2016, 09:58 AM
SoK66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wpeschel View Post
Here is the update. This manifold was bought on the 3/23/16 and installed the day it came in the mail 3/30. Never dropped and torqued per specs 24 foot pounds. It started leaking about a week later. Waiting on the manufacture to determine if they want to refund my money after I sent them pictures.
Exhaust manifold bolt torque per the JK FSM is 17 ft lbs (200 inch pounds = 16.7 ft lbs), not 24. I'm afraid you overtightened them, which is likely why it cracked & broke off. Hopefully you didn't strip out the head.

Here are the install instructions from the JK 3.8L FSM:

INSTALLATION

1. Position exhaust manifold (1) on cylinder head. Install bolts to center runner (cylinder #4) and initial tighten to 2.8 Nm (25 in. lbs.).
2. Position heat shield (2) on manifold.
3. Install the remaining manifold attaching bolts. Tighten all bolts to 23 Nm (200 in. lbs.).
4. Install and tighten heat shield attaching nut (3) to 12 Nm (105 in. lbs.).
5. Attach exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold and tighten bolts to 41 Nm (30 ft. lbs.).
6. Connect the left side oxygen sensors (1,2).
7. Connect battery negative cable.

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post #6 of 8 Old 04-13-2016, 10:08 AM
propped1
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I had this issue and took it to my shop. It was $150 including labor for the driver side parts and labor lifetime... I figured since the manifolds cracking were common its like buying insurance. Havent replaced my pass yet.

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post #7 of 8 Old 04-13-2016, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
Wpeschel
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Hmm. Project JK has the torque specs at 24 lbs. been turning wrenches for myself for quite sometime and have never heard of an exhaust manifold cracking due to being over torqued by 8 pounds.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-13-2016, 08:17 PM
SoK66
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That 8 lbs is approx 50% overtorque. The material is crap, which is why they crack. Mopar screwed the design by using bolts rather than studs. Bean counter-engineering, it uses one part (a flange head bolt) instead of three, a stud, washer & nut.

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