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Unread 04-08-2013, 01:00 PM   #1
SLADE
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2 Door JK 18/60 Coil swap

The Jeep is a 2013 2 door with a soft top and 285/75R17 Dunlop Fierce Attitude MT's. There is about 1,100 miles on the Jeep, so the stock 13/55 coils are not wore out or saging and the only added weight is the matching 285 spare. I swaped from the stock 13/55 coils to a set of 18/60 coils (planned on 18/59s but ended up with 18/60s).

Measurments: (These are rough/close measurments, I did not get an exact to the 1/16" measurment.)

13/55 Coils
Front at coil buckets: 9 1/4"
Rear at coil buckets: 8 3/4"

18/60 Coils
Front at coil bucket: 10 3/4"
Rear at coil Bucket: 10 3/4"

I gained 1.5" lift in the front and 2" in the rear.

Tools Needed:
18mm wrench
18mm Socket
10mm Socket
ratchet

The coils where swaped without taking a single tire off of the Jeep and no Jacks or coil compressors where used. I disconected the shocks, sway bar links (at the axle), and brake line brackets to allow the axles to droop far enough to pull the coils out. I did use a pry bar on the rear to get them over the center nipple.


BEFORE: (with stock 225 tires and 16" steel wheels)



AFTER: 18/60 Coil swap and 285's on JK 17" wheels with 1.25" wheel spacer.





The "18" and "60" will be the last 2 numbers in the coil part number. There is a tag hanging off of the coils you can get the number off of.

They are off of a 4 door. They are not really package specific, but they will most likley be found on a 4 door with a hard top and a max tow package. A Rubicon or Sahara may be more likley to have the higher spring rates.

The stiffest coils you can get are 19's for the front and 60's for the rear.

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Unread 04-08-2013, 01:01 PM   #2
SLADE
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I forgot to measure the front, but there is room in the rear for a 16" - 16 1/4" shock (compresed length)

At full droop with the shock, swaybar, and brake line brackets unhooked a 25 1/2" shock (extended length) would be needed.


EDIT:

The stock rear shocks measure about 14.5" compressed and about 22.5" extended for a total of 8" travel.


EDIT:

Front stock shocks measure about 14.5" Compressed and about 22.5" extended for a total of 8" travel.

At full compression, there is room for at least a 15.5" and maybe a 16" collapsed length shock without extending the bump stops.
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Last edited by SLADE; 05-16-2013 at 12:07 PM.. Reason: Added stock shock measurements.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 08:08 AM   #3
SLADE
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It still has a good ride. It is stiffer, but It was too soft to begin with when it had the stock 13/55 coils on it. The front 13 coils where too soft to even consider adding a bumper/winch combo to the front and the rear 55 coils where too soft to carry much of a load at all on the cargo rack or to tow a small trailer.

I'm happy with the ride and the ability to handle a little more weight that the 18/60 coils gave me.
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Unread 04-10-2013, 08:33 AM   #4
JIMBOX
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Now that was a very good writeup for 4dr/2dr coil change and the "lift" end result--

Well done SLADE, well done, especially about not loosening the track bar/control arms, thats the way I've done mine several times and I don't have any suspension "re-adjustment" problems-

Congrads-

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Unread 04-10-2013, 10:34 AM   #5
miah12
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i have a 08 2dr and swapped from 14/56 springs to 18/59 and rubi shocks and got almost the same result, 1 3/4" lift in front and 1 1/2" rear. its a great cheap alternative to a lift in the beginning, found my springs and shocks with 150 miles on them for $200 on c-list
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Unread 04-10-2013, 12:18 PM   #6
Raspy
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Maybe I'm missing something, but how do you do it without a jack of some kind?
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Unread 04-10-2013, 12:24 PM   #7
SLADE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raspy View Post
Maybe I'm missing something, but how do you do it without a jack of some kind?

After everything was unhooked, I drove up the ramp on my deckover trailer. It's high enough that it allowed for enough droop to pull the coil spring out and put the replacement in.

You could accomplish the same thing with all 4 corner at the same time if you have access to a lift.
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Unread 04-17-2013, 07:04 AM   #8
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Hauled 240 pounds of Quickrete and a wheelbarrow on the cargo rack the other day. The Jeep handled the load fine with very little squat and handled well. Before the 60 coils springs, 240 pounds would compress the suspension enough for it to be a concern.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 10:09 PM   #9
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I have a few questions. I am considering doing a 18/59 spring swap on my 2013 2DR Sport S. My jeep is completely stock as of now. I am hoping to do this swap and add flat fenders. Will I be able to run 35' tire with this set up? I hope to gain 1'-2' of lift out of the spring swap. I know with stock wheels I would need wheel spacers, but what size? Also will this help level the Jeep or will I need to do the swap, measure, and add some sort of spacer? With this swap will I need to change the stock shocks? Also in the future if I upgrade shocks, what shocks will fit properly?


My goals are to prepare my Jeep for 35"s with as little "lift" as needed. I will than look at re-gearing since I have 3.21 and an auto. Also at the time of gear swap want to add some type of lockers.

Last edited by smanno; 04-26-2013 at 10:38 PM..
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Unread 04-27-2013, 06:25 AM   #10
SLADE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smanno View Post
I have a few questions. I am considering doing a 18/59 spring swap on my 2013 2DR Sport S. My jeep is completely stock as of now. I am hoping to do this swap and add flat fenders. Will I be able to run 35' tire with this set up? I hope to gain 1'-2' of lift out of the spring swap. I know with stock wheels I would need wheel spacers, but what size? Also will this help level the Jeep or will I need to do the swap, measure, and add some sort of spacer? With this swap will I need to change the stock shocks? Also in the future if I upgrade shocks, what shocks will fit properly?


My goals are to prepare my Jeep for 35"s with as little "lift" as needed. I will than look at re-gearing since I have 3.21 and an auto. Also at the time of gear swap want to add some type of lockers.

With flat fenders, I don't think I would have a bit of trouble running 35's.

I think 1.5" of lift would be a safe estimate, but It will depend on what coils you have stock.

you'll need to end up with no more than 5" BS and 4.75" BS is more recomended. You'll need a 1.25" - 1.5" wheel spacer.

I'm still running the stock shocks. You'll have to take your bumpstops into consideration before you add a longer shock.

I am looking into relocating the upper mounts to make room for a longer shock instead of limiting the suspension with a longer bumpstop.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 02:48 PM   #11
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Thanks for detail measurements.
Ok so this is my take on it.
Although you did get some lift with the new springs, they are in fact still the same length as the old ones. They are just heavier meaning they just don't compress as much and gave you a harder ride. If you decide to add a winch or aftermarket bumpers you will back in the same boat. You would in fact be better off with a 2" lift spring which is 2" longer to start and by the time it's all said and done you will end up 2" higher with a better ride as well.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 05:06 PM   #12
SLADE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
Thanks for detail measurements.
Ok so this is my take on it.
Although you did get some lift with the new springs, they are in fact still the same length as the old ones. They are just heavier meaning they just don't compress as much and gave you a harder ride. If you decide to add a winch or aftermarket bumpers you will back in the same boat. You would in fact be better off with a 2" lift spring which is 2" longer to start and by the time it's all said and done you will end up 2" higher with a better ride as well.

The ride is fine and the main purpose was not to gain lift. The lift was just an added benifit to getting a set of coils with an adequate spring rate.

There is much more to it than the unsprung length of the coil. A longer coil with too little spring rate won't suit my needs or handle a load like these will. You could have given me a coil with the same spring rate as my 13/55 coils and 2" longer but they still would not have been adequate to handle the added weight of a winch, bumper, and a load on the cargo rack. They would have quickly lost the added length from the weight of the winch, bumpers, and load.

The 18/60 coils gave me the ride I was looking for and will handle the added weight of a bumper, winch, haulling on a cargo rack, and towing a small trailer.

These have a higher spring rate, so they are designed to take the added weight of a winch or aftermarket bumper.

They are factory Jeep parts and where picked up for just over $100 shipped.


EDIT: 8-8-13 I picked up another set of 18's and compared them to the 16's that I pulled off of the 4 door.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
Thanks for detail measurements.
Ok so this is my take on it.
Although you did get some lift with the new springs, they are in fact still the same length as the old ones. They are just heavier meaning they just don't compress as much and gave you a harder ride. If you decide to add a winch or aftermarket bumpers you will back in the same boat. You would in fact be better off with a 2" lift spring which is 2" longer to start and by the time it's all said and done you will end up 2" higher with a better ride as well.

To correct some false information...

Unfortunately, I threw my stock 13/55 coils out and can't get a measurement or picture of them, BUT here is a comparison between a 16 and an 18 front coil spring. I'll get more measurements as I round up different coils.

Stock 16 coils: 17 1/2"

Stock 18 coils: 18 1/4"




52126218AC: 18 1/4"


52126216AC: 17 1/2"


Side by side comparison of a 16 and an 18 front coil spring


There is roughly a 3/4" difference between the 16's and 18's.

If the spring heights are consistent, there would be atleast a 1 1/2" (if not slightly more) difference in height between the 13's and the 18's.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 07:06 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE

The ride is fine and the main purpose was not to gain lift. The lift was just an added benifit to getting a set of coils with an adequate spring rate.

There is much more to it than the unsprung length of the coil. A longer coil with too little spring rate won't suit my needs or handle a load like these will. You could have given me a coil with the same spring rate as my 13/55 coils and 2" longer but they still would not have been adequate to handle the added weight of a winch, bumper, and a load on the cargo rack. They would have quickly lost the added length from the weight of the winch, bumpers, and load.

The 18/60 coils gave me the ride I was looking for and will handle the added weight of a bumper, winch, haulling on a cargo rack, and towing a small trailer.

These have a higher spring rate, so they are designed to take the added weight of a winch or aftermarket bumper.

They are factory Jeep parts and where picked up for just over $100 shipped.
18 are definitely a higher spring rate but ARE NOT designed to carry a winch and steel bumper. I can tell you first hand YOU WILL be swapping out those front 18s for lift springs or at least a much heavier spring designed for a heavy bumper and winch after a year or so. I had 18s and they lasted just over a year with a grille guard and no winch until they sagged to the point of way too much rake.

As for 2" lift springs, they will compress under load of course but will not compress anymore then stock springs. So you've started out 2" taller so they will always be 2" longer then stock no matter how much weight you add. Yes, Buying the proper combination of height and spring rate is key but you'll not get that from factory springs with the load you're talking about.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 08:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JTPhoto View Post
18 are definitely a higher spring rate but ARE NOT designed to carry a winch and steel bumper. I can tell you first hand YOU WILL be swapping out those front 18s for lift springs or at least a much heavier spring designed for a heavy bumper and winch after a year or so. I had 18s and they lasted just over a year with a grille guard and no winch until they sagged to the point of way too much rake.

As for 2" lift springs, they will compress under load of course but will not compress anymore then stock springs. So you've started out 2" taller so they will always be 2" longer then stock no matter how much weight you add. Yes, Buying the proper combination of height and spring rate is key but you'll not get that from factory springs with the load you're talking about.

If they won't hold up to the weight of a winch and bumper on a 2 door, how do they hold up the weight of a 4 door without any additional weight?


I'll post a measurement after a winch is installed and then another after some time has passed.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 08:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLADE

If they won't hold up to the weight of a winch and bumper on a 2 door, how do they hold up the weight of a 4 door without any additional weight?

I'll post a measurement after a winch is installed and then another after some time has passed.
What's the weight difference between a 4dr and 2dr stock?
Its looking like the curb weight of 2dr base sport is 3,918lb a 4dr base sport 4,211lb (as listed by
motor trend magazine) So benefit of a doubt we'll give it a difference of 400lb = 100lb per spring divide the weight of front bumper and winch 200lb = 100lb on each front spring, now you already matched weight of the 4dr and you still haven't loaded any gear yet. So you are now effectively back to your original height.
It will be interesting to see how it all works out for you.
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