[FifteenCents]

I found out a lot of info on this "CHEAP" lift "MOD" from several Boards.

It is really cheap and effective, This is what I did and is not an endorsement on what to do...Do so at your own risk...I assume no responsibility and you are on your own.....

Parts List:
2 Front coils from a V8 ZJ Grand Cherokee
2 Rear coils from a Ford Crown Victoria "Police Interceptor"
1 Rear Track Bar relocator bracket (only new part I bought)
2 Front Coil Spring isolators from the ZJ

Needed Tools.

1 Big pair of channel Lock pliers
1 Metric Socket Set
1 Ratchet Drive
1 Metric open/box end wrench set
1 T55 torx bit
1 Hydraulic Vehicle Lift (rented a lift at a auto hobby shop)
1 bag of ZIPLOCK bags
1 Sharpie pen

[FifteenCents]

The first step is to place the TJ on the vehicle lift and make sure it is balanced and safe. You will be pulling and tugging on the jeep and the axles to get this installed.

Lift the TJ until the tires are barely on the ground. It is not nessecary to remove the wheels I left them on for the whole project.

Unbolt the rear track bar at the upper mount.
Just inside the frame rail behind the passenger Rear Tire.

Place the bolt, washers and nut in a plactic bag and Mark purpose/location on the bag.


Unbolt the bottom of both rear Shocks and let them hang. (bag/mark bolts)

Unbolt the bottom Mount for the Rear track bar (bag/mark bolts) and Remove Track bar

Install the Track Bar relocation bracket (per the manufactures instructions)

Remove both bolts from the Rear Sway Bar (bag/mark bolts) and leave the sway bar and sway bar brackets in place.

Move to the Front of the TJ.

Unbolt the front sway bar (disconnect if you have Quick Disconnects)

Unbolt the front shock lower mounts and let the shock hang (bag/mark bolts)

Leave the steering alone.

Leave the front track bar alone.

Lift the TJ until the tires come off of the ground and then about 5 inches more....

You should be able to just lift up the rear springs and jockey them out of the perches.

The front springs are a little more difficult...

I leaned over the front tire and pushed down on the front tire with my chest and turned the spring around out of the grouve and pull up on the spring it will come out with some effort, (be careful and not pull the TJ off of the lift.)

Using a grinder, Carefully cut off one inch of the end of the coil on the Crown Victoria springs (the piece you cut off should be about the same shape and size as a half inch socket. You will notice by comparing the TJ and CV springs that the last coil on the CV springs is smaller this will not fit over the lower spring perch on the Rear Axle... The curve is as such as if you remove one inch it will just fit around the lower perch. Do not cut the top of the coil it will fit over the upper spring guide.

Using a large pair of Channel Lock pliers remove the rubber/urethane bump stops on the front (all four corners if you have a urethane lift installed).

Up inside the cup vacated by the bumpstops is a bolt remove the bolt (bag and label the bolts) remove the cup (the urethane lift blocks if installed) and put the rubber spring isolators from the ZJ on the front spring guide below the stock TJ ones on both side. (yes, use both) This will remove the rake that is stock on the TJ and will give more stuffing room for the tire to move up. Replace the cups and bolt them back on. Reinstall the bumpstops.

Install the rear CV springs in the reverse order you took out the TJ Springs. The modified (cut) coil needs to be on the bottom... The spring will probably not fit down on the perch yet.. Just get it in place and it will "POP" into place when you lower the TJ back on the ground later.

Install the front ZJ springs. This will be a little harder than taking them out.. They are a little longer than the TJ springs and the isolator from the ZJ is taking up room too. It will fit, just turn it around untill the spring will fit up over the lower spring perch and then turn it around unill it sets in the grouve on the axle that matches the coil curve. reinstall the clips or clips that hold the spring in place. (mine only had one on the passenger side...I will get the other one for the drivers side soon)

Thread the rear track bar back into place and bolt the bottom bolt in place (loosely)

The carefully inch by inch lower the TJ guiding the rear track bar and keeping and eye on all four shocks. Untill the hole lines up for the bolt to fit in the upper bracket on the rear track bar. Use the large channel lock pliers to turn the track bar to line up the bolt hole. Install the bolt and tighten up both bolts on the track bar.

Replace the bolts on all four shocks.

Reconnect the front sway bar.

Replace the bolts on the rear track bar.

Go back over every bolt you touched and recheck the torque on them.

look at all of the bags and make sure you did not miss anything...

Check the front end alignment....

I used Stu's idea at http://www.stu-offroad.com/steering/align/align-1.htm

But with one difference I used a sharpie to make one mark on each front
tire and measured the front side and turn both tires 180 degrees and measured
the back side.

[FifteenCents]

I really like it, I took it out on the highway and no vibes.

The front is a little stiffer than the stock ones. Better brakeing and handling.

The rear is a little softer than the stock ones. Much nicer on the highway, and better to soak up the bumps and wash boards around here.

Over all... I LOVE IT

[Achped]

You didn't get new shocks?

[Runnerboy]

you didnt get any finished product pictures?

[FifteenCents]

I already had longer shocks from the 2 inch urethane spacer lift I had. The rear sway bar is the limiting factor right now...I am planning on putting limit straps instead of longer shocks...It already flexes really well. I don't want any more droop. I am going to get an AntiRock sway bar to limit the front flex, right now I just unbolt the sway bar....

[tjchad]

So what was your overall lift achieved? I still have my CV and ZJ springs and now that I have longer than stock shocks I'm thinking about doing this lift again.
That was good idea adding a ZJ isolator to the front- if you don't you'll have some SERIOUS rake...

[cyrdg3]

I am a new owner of a 1999 Tj 2.5. I see that you have a 1"mml, is that required/recommended for this setup? My suspension knowledge is limited, but I am definetly capable of installing this. What length shocks should I use, since I only have stock ones now.

Any feedback would be great

[FifteenCents]

My measurements have about 3.5 inches of lift. The 1 inch body lift was to make room for 1 inch motor mount lift. I already had the motor and body lifts. This was to lessen the drive line angle to prevent vibration.

[Polaris]

off topic, but what kind of bumper/stinger is that?

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by Polaris

off topic, but what kind of bumper/stinger is that?

Poison Spyder Customs trail stinger, with an TOMKEN winch mount.

http://www.spydercustoms.com/index2.php

http://www.tomken.com

[tjchad]

So, on the front you have the ZJ spring, a ZJ coil isolator and the original tj isolator?

NEVER MIND! I re-read your post. Reading is good- paying attn to what you read is even better...

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by tjchad

So, on the front you have the ZJ spring, a ZJ coil isolator and the original tj isolator?

NEVER MIND! I re-read your post. Reading is good- paying attn to what you read is even better...

Yes to the question and to the statement....

[tjchad]

Cool. I'm going to put the ZJ lift back on. I picked up the ZJ coil isolators today and got my longer shocks ready. Now I just need a free afternoon...

[FifteenCents]

Originally Posted by tjchad

Cool. I'm going to put the ZJ lift back on. I picked up the ZJ coil isolators today and got my longer shocks ready. Now I just need a free afternoon...

Let me know how it works out, I'll edit my post to include your findings if you want.