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You guys with ARB's...what kind of compressor??
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#1 | |
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Registered User
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You guys with ARB's...what kind of compressor??
So I bought a D44 with an ARB in the rear axle. It has already been installed and all the plumbing is in place. I have a connection point on the exterior of the axle for the connection of an air compressor.
The problem is I know nothing about the installation or what's involved with getting this bad boy working. I know that I will need some type of compressor...that's it. So I'm looking some advice on what I need in terms of switches, air compressor, where to mount it and in general how this thing works. Does simply turning on the compressor activate the locker? Does the locker run constantly or does it activate the locker and then shut off? Does the compressor have to be an ARB unit? I have a portable air compressor that I bought at Costco and I'm wondering if I can use it. Thanks
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#2 |
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Registered User
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I run the ARB compressor, mounted on the tray below the master cylinder. To activate the locker is about 100PSI and the compressor has a pressure switch that will shut off the compressor when that is reached. The in cab switch(es) operate(s) a solenoid valve that will hold line pressure to the locker. I have front and rear ARB's and three switches. One switch for compressor "on", one switch to activate the "front" solenoid, and one to activate the "rear" solenoid. The compressor I bought came with the wiring harness but I modified it to use with my sPod and Source power distribution.
You'll also need air line from the compressor to the rear locker. I'd recommend the blue line that ARB sells. If it gets damaged (read: torn off) it's an easy trailside repair. If you go with a stainless line, it could rip the fitting out of the axle housing - yuck. ![]()
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#3 |
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Registered User
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I've got ARB's front and rear also. I've got the ARB compresser as well. I think if you've got an ARB equiped axle, the simplest way to get operational is to get the ARB compressor and some ARB switches. All this equipment is designed to "play together" nicely. I've got some friends who run their ARB's off CO2, but I feel the ARB compressor is cheap enough to justify hard-wiring it to the Jeep. It makes for a nice clean install, and makes hooking up your future front ARB super-easy.
I've got the exact set-up as robncar, only my switches are in my dash. Simply turn on the compressor to pressurize the system, then select which axle to be locked. The compressor will cyle on (when needed) to ensure the lockers recieve enought pressure. Also, the ARB compressor can easily be used to fill a tire (this takes forever,,but it's do-able) Don't laugh,,,I know it's dirty ![]() ![]() |
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#4 |
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Registered User
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i also use the ARB compressor mounted under the master cylinder.
switches are mounted into a plate where the ash tray used to be. |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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I also run an ARB compressor - switches are mounted on a plate (available from ARB) on the base of the center console (the plate has room for 3 switches).
Only runs once or twice in a whole day of wheeling - even flipping the lockers on and off a lot...
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2003 TJ Wrangler 1981 CJ-7 1959 Willys Wagon L6-226 1955 Willys Wagon SBC |
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#6 |
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I read somewhere that if you dont use an arb compressor the warrenty is voided on the locker
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#7 | |
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Web Wheeler
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Quote:
The ARB owners manual provides documentation on how to attach it to an alternate air source. Sure....you hook it up to a high pressure compressor and blow out the seals.....yes, it is not covered. Why should it be? You were an idiot. However, plumb your air source correctly and operate it within the required pressure range of the locker and your ARB is covered. |
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#8 | |
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Registered User
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From the ARB installation guide...
Quote:
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#9 |
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Registered User
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The best thing about the ARB compressor is the plug and play wiring harness that comes with it. Makes installation a piece a cake. You can also cross the hot wire on the rear switch bundle to the front switch so you can activate the front and rear independently. If you don't then you have to activate the rear before the front will lock. I use another compressor for tires though since the ARB is designed as a low volume high pressure air source.
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John L92/6L80 98 TJ From the wilds of Northern Arizona |
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#10 |
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Member
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I am running the ARB compressor in the same location as Robncar. You can see the blue air lines sticking out here.
![]() ![]() ![]() I like the air hose fitting option. I can air up my 33's from 15lbs to 23lbs in just under 2minutes a tire. I rarely air down lower than that without beadlocks. ![]() My switches are just in a different location. I like the clean look of this location better that where the ashtray is....just my 2 cents. ![]() ![]()
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2002 Sport Colorado Jeep Member #155
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Your switch location looks a little more passenger safe too.
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#12 |
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Yeah. I like that the compressor switch is on the other side of the steering wheel as well, so I don't accidentally turn off my air compressor as I am turning off and on my front locker on tight trails. Some people ask if my knees hit it, but I have been running it this way for about a year, and not once have I. I see some guys with switches in the ashtray area, and alot of times I see their rear windshield wiper running on a nice sunny day...oops.
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2002 Sport Colorado Jeep Member #155
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#13 |
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Registered User
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I was about broke after paying for my ARB.. Just couldn't afford the ARB compressor at the time. So, I ran a line from my existing CO2 tank to an adjustable regulator set at about 95 psi, then to the ARB relay and down to the locker.
I spent about $15 in parts (most were from harbor freight) and it works like a charm. When I get to the trail head, I crack open the air valve on my tank and it's ready to go. I do have to switch hoses when it comes time to air up my tires, but that only takes a second using my brass quick release connectors. I should point out that I mounted the on/off switch for the relay just below and the right of my steering column. The ARB supplied relay had to be drilled out to accept the larger CO2 fittings I used, but it works just fine. The Main thing is that you have to control the PSI going to your locker. If you put too much air pressure to it, you will blow the rubber o-ring in the locker. Replacing it means tearing your rearend appart, which is a big pain in the rear (no phun intended). I think the maxium pressure is around 100 psi.
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John "When approaching a four-way stop, the vehicle with the largest tires always has the right of way" 2004 TJ, Auto w/ OD, 4.0L, Off-Road 36x13.5 Super Swamper IROK's on MT Classic II Rims, SYE, CV Driveshaft, 4:56 Gears, ARB Locker, 3.5" RE Superflex, 2" Body Lift, JKS Quicker Disco's, 9,000# Winch, Toys-by-Troy step-sliders, The Source OBA. And lots more.... |
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