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Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Line

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Unread 03-03-2012, 10:30 AM   #76
TURBevO8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post
Did you follow the link I posted? The brackets are designed by Blaine Johnson (mrblaine here on JF). He is partners in Savvy with Gerald Lee (savvy here on JF). Apart from Savvy he also sells Black Magic Brakes. The brackets are being sold on the Black Magic site, not as part of Savvy. Same guy, same brackets.
Yes I followed it. That is why I said the price includes shipping. But I assumed Savvy had a similar version that may be cheaper. Now I see it is actually the same exact part made by the same person. I just know Savvy usually has great pricing whereas I have never bought anything from Black Magic. So my point was before I spend $50 from BM, wait to see what Savvy's price is. But now I am thinking these may not clear my drag link anyway so I am thinking I still may be stuck making something. But I will wait until I make some changes to my steering and then determine that before ordering. Still good info and thanks again!

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Unread 03-04-2012, 01:30 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBevO8 View Post
Yes I followed it. That is why I said the price includes shipping. But I assumed Savvy had a similar version that may be cheaper. Now I see it is actually the same exact part made by the same person. I just know Savvy usually has great pricing whereas I have never bought anything from Black Magic. So my point was before I spend $50 from BM, wait to see what Savvy's price is. But now I am thinking these may not clear my drag link anyway so I am thinking I still may be stuck making something. But I will wait until I make some changes to my steering and then determine that before ordering. Still good info and thanks again!
The brackets are designed to clear high steer and more specifically "flipped tie rods" as was done in this thread. For the amount of time you'll spend trying to figure something out vs 50 bucks for a proven product...... I'll just leave it at that.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 03:08 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post
The brackets are designed to clear high steer and more specifically "flipped tie rods" as was done in this thread. For the amount of time you'll spend trying to figure something out vs 50 bucks for a proven product...... I'll just leave it at that.
My drag link goes right to my steering knuckle on top of my "flipped" tie rod. Clearing the tie rod AND drag link is my concern. And I agree $50 is not bad for convenience. But I would hate to get them only to have to ship them back because the one on the PS runs right into my drag link. I don't think figuring it out would be too bad. Maybe a little trial and error to get it right. But again, it would be nice to avoid that hassle of dealing with all of that time wise if these will in fact clear my drag link. What worries me is it looks like the mounting position is below the top of the knuckle and my drag link at that position seems above that. I just went from 4" coils to 2.5" coils so I am going back to a stock pitman arm which will change the angle of the drag link. When I do that this upcoming weekend and am done messing with the overall geometry of my steering I will measure to check for said clearance. Would be nice to see a shot straight on like this to see just how much clearance there is. By seeing how far the thru hole is below the top surface of the knuckle for example. In this pic it looks like I have extra clearance but with the 4" coils the drag link was right up against my crappy bracket. I am speculating it will be tight again when I swap back in the stock pitman. But with all of that said, I bet I could make them work and in the end will probably order here next week from Black Magic.



PS: I know someone will make a comment about safety washers on my tie rod. If I use them the bolt head hits the wheel weights. I need to have them rebalanced with tape weights and then I think I can reinstall the washers on this side. They are on the DS.
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Unread 03-04-2012, 05:03 PM   #79
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This all sounds cool but at the moment I cant view pics due to downloading restrictions on the network im on... But I bookmarked it anyway haha.
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[I][FONT="Arial Narrow"]Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
Selling a Jeep when you should be fixing it is a hellworthy trespass. You'll end up in a beerless afterlife filled with pavement and Hyundai sport-compacts, and a severe lack of women.[/FONT][/I]
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Unread 03-04-2012, 05:38 PM   #80
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Unread 03-04-2012, 10:03 PM   #81
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That looks like some wack geometry...
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Unread 03-04-2012, 10:18 PM   #82
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Has anyone heard from CB? I know he was having major heart issues and I'm wondering if those got the best of him...
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Unread 03-05-2012, 06:35 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdeye View Post
That looks like some wack geometry...
Yeah well I have a drop pitman on there now for my old 4" coils. I just put the 2.5" coils on here Saturday. I havent had a chance to put the stock pitman back on which should get the geometry back to where it should be. So yeah the drag link does look like its at a bad angle right now. I also plan to modify the trac bar and remove the lowering bracket this upcoming weekend too which will get that geometry sorted out. The sway bar is at 10 degrees though so it is right on as far as as my crappy home made brackets and their location. They just look bad and hacked up so I want these ones we've been discussing.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 07:17 AM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thirdeye View Post
That looks like some wack geometry...
Yeah you were right. I redid the whole thing. That is how it came with the hp30 I bought so I used it. This past weekend I cut it up and rewelded a bunch of stuff. Now the drag link is parallel to the trac bar. I also heated and bent the ends of the tie rod slightly to clear where it was contacting the axle so now the factory hard stops do their job again.

But the real reason I am posting...mudb8, when welding the Mr. Blaine brackets to the inner Cs, are there any pointers you have? Preheating? Postheating? Wire size and welder settings recommended? I've never welded to cast before. Thanks!
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Unread 06-08-2012, 11:12 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TURBevO8 View Post
But the real reason I am posting...mudb8, when welding the Mr. Blaine brackets to the inner Cs, are there any pointers you have? Preheating? Postheating? Wire size and welder settings recommended? I've never welded to cast before. Thanks!
I've braised cast but never welded it. I've seen people weld it without heating it and be fine. I'm about to weld onto the diff of my 44 and so was looking up about welding on it. Heat the cast up to about 500 and then weld it up. Post heat it and peen it with a hammer to relieve the stress. Slowly bring down the temp to like 350ish in about a 15min period providing heat ever so bit and then wrap it up or put it in sand to let it cool slowly. You could be a little less techinical about it and be fine i'm sure. Cast like's to crack so heating and peening are important.

I usually weld with .030 or .035 and either should be fine. Welder settings would depend on what your working with. I'd turn the wire speed down a little just so you can be sure to penetrate good and pulling the puddle will help do that as well too.
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Unread 06-11-2012, 06:21 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilSteve97TJ View Post
I've braised cast but never welded it. I've seen people weld it without heating it and be fine. I'm about to weld onto the diff of my 44 and so was looking up about welding on it. Heat the cast up to about 500 and then weld it up. Post heat it and peen it with a hammer to relieve the stress. Slowly bring down the temp to like 350ish in about a 15min period providing heat ever so bit and then wrap it up or put it in sand to let it cool slowly. You could be a little less techinical about it and be fine i'm sure. Cast like's to crack so heating and peening are important.

I usually weld with .030 or .035 and either should be fine. Welder settings would depend on what your working with. I'd turn the wire speed down a little just so you can be sure to penetrate good and pulling the puddle will help do that as well too.
Thanks for the info. I contacted Mr. Blaine and he said the inner Cs are not cast but forged and it is as simple as welding 2 pieces of steel together. I have been using my buddy's Hobart 220 with I believe 0.30 wire and for up to 1/4" seems to work pretty darn well. Using gas, not flux core. So I think I am just going to leave the settings where I had them when I redid my steering. Maybe turn the wire speed down a little, and have at it. Thanks!
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Unread 01-26-2013, 02:09 PM   #87
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chucks rubi gets a new home......
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I want your factory 07-up take-off/thrown out JK front/rear Lower Control Arms! Bent ones are perfect also as long as the bushings and cold cut rings are in good shape/useable


HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




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Unread 01-26-2013, 02:14 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by mudb8 View Post


chucks rubi gets a new home......
You com'n back around?
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Unread 01-26-2013, 07:34 PM   #89
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Wow your work is amazing. I wish I had your knowledge and equipment to under take such a job.
Very nice brother.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 01:30 PM   #90
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You com'n back around?
I'm always around, just don't have the time to play on the net much.
only a PM, email or phone call away, sometimes I can't get to em right away but I do see them....
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HighLine Hood Jeepers
TJ Adjustable Track bars
DIY highline fenders.... 34-37's under 0"-2.5" lifts
shock length, bumpstop extension, tire size chart click here
DIY shock shifters, more uptravel/better ride




2011 E-350 4x4 Van conversion

2006 Rubicon Unlimited

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