XJ/TJ/ZJ Front Knuckle Repair - Brake Pad Grooves - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 60 Old 04-05-2010, 06:50 PM
99TJtommy
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What kind of wire did you use? All I have is what came with my welder.

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post #17 of 60 Old 04-05-2010, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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What kind of wire did you use? All I have is what came with my welder.
030 flux-core....


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post #18 of 60 Old 02-02-2011, 02:03 AM
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Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't one be able to simply file the divots flat to match the rest of the ear surface? Of course, the divots would form again, but it would be better than doing nothing. I understand the welding adds hardness, is that the reason?
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post #19 of 60 Old 02-02-2011, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Just out of curiosity, why wouldn't one be able to simply file the divots flat to match the rest of the ear surface? Of course, the divots would form again, but it would be better than doing nothing. I understand the welding adds hardness, is that the reason?
no the reason you weld/fill the divot instead of grinding it flat is to retain the same clearancing between the caliper and the rotor. if you file the divots down flat you'll screw up the distance between the rotor, pad, caliper & hub....without changing the caliper mounting points, the pads will get less support and still slide uneven.


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post #20 of 60 Old 02-22-2011, 08:21 PM
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How common of a problem is this for Jeeps? I am about to do the brakes on my TJ for the first time and hope I don't run into this.

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post #21 of 60 Old 02-22-2011, 09:13 PM Thread Starter
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How common of a problem is this for Jeeps? I am about to do the brakes on my TJ for the first time and hope I don't run into this.
very common as I understand it...some jeeps get divots at 20k miles... its a bit of a design flaw...so basically they all do it sooner or later if you use the brakes...


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post #22 of 60 Old 06-01-2011, 04:23 PM
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Anybody try this with a stick welder? I of course have these grooves, not as bad as in the pics, but still there. I'm trying to fix a squeak problem coming from my right front wheel and I'm slowly overhauling the front brakes trying to fix the problem. I'm probably going to have to put this on the list.
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post #23 of 60 Old 06-01-2011, 04:32 PM
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Another answer might be to fill the divot and then use a replaceable slider cap as Ford does on the 8.8 axles. In that case, one might be able to fill the divot using an alternate filler such as JB Weld or epoxy.

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post #24 of 60 Old 06-01-2011, 07:34 PM
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Another answer might be to fill the divot and then use a replaceable slider cap as Ford does on the 8.8 axles. In that case, one might be able to fill the divot using an alternate filler such as JB Weld or epoxy.
I thought about this as an option as well but it would require a cap the same size and contour as the stock knuckle. One would have to ensure that they ground the knuckle down evenly in order to get the cap to sit straight and flat.
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post #25 of 60 Old 06-01-2011, 07:58 PM
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I'll second the desire for a slider cap - When I did the brakes on my Dad's '96 Explorer last summer I was jealous of how well those caps held up and of course the undamaged cast iron underneath. This seems like a logical need that the aftermarket should step in to fill the gap.

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post #26 of 60 Old 08-05-2011, 11:28 PM
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Would a 115V mig welder work for this? I have a Lincoln WeldPak 3200HD, and I have .035" flux core wire in it. It can do up to 1/4" steel, output of 90A @ 19V @ 20% duty cycle.

I have a 96 ZJ with the same issues on BOTH knuckles. My friend has a 94 with the same problem, and his wife has a 95 with the same problem. This would make ALL of our lives better!!!

Thing that sucks is I can't weld! I would have to get my friend to lay the welds for me, and then do the dress work myself....

Yeah yeah... I own a welder and can't use it... LOL

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post #27 of 60 Old 08-05-2011, 11:36 PM Thread Starter
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Would a 115V mig welder work for this? I have a Lincoln WeldPak 3200HD, and I have .035" flux core wire in it.
I used a 120V Hobart Handler 140....


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post #28 of 60 Old 08-05-2011, 11:49 PM
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I'll second the desire for a slider cap - When I did the brakes on my Dad's '96 Explorer last summer I was jealous of how well those caps held up and of course the undamaged cast iron underneath. This seems like a logical need that the aftermarket should step in to fill the gap.
It's a great aftermarket idea. So great that I had about 20 sets built, but they are expensive in small lots, or about 2 bucks each. And lest we forget, we have to machine the slots in the ends of the brake pads larger so they will slide and that adds to the overall cost.

When I finished up with the costs and added it all up, it was something near 15 bucks cost added to a set of pads with slider caps.

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post #29 of 60 Old 08-05-2011, 11:55 PM
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Def. something I would buy. Still have the grooves that I haven't and probably will never get around to fixing.
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post #30 of 60 Old 04-13-2012, 10:27 PM
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what about steering pull?

Could dragging pads be the result of these divots and would it be noticeable right after new pads, calipers, and rotors in the front? i would imagine they'd have to wear down a bit before the travel distance would be affected by the divot, or is it the other way around?
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